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Kat's Ol' Max


metrokat

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From the report card they gave me.

 

Calcium (Ca)

Natural Seawater Value: 400 mg/L

Acceptable Range: 350 to 450 mg/L*

*These values represent only the amount of free calcium ions present

in the samples. According to Randy Holmes-Farley, the total calcium

concentration can be 20% to 30% higher.

Tested: 133 mg/L

(LOW) Your calcium level is too low. We recommend using a commercial calcium additive to

raise this level. There are several methods for doing this. Calcium is a critical parameter for

coral growth in reef aquariums, and chronically low levels will cause coral mortality and loss

of coralline algae and other invertebrate species.

 

chronically low levels will cause coral mortality and loss of coralline algae and other invertebrate species.

 

I haven't "lost" any corals. My coralline is through the roof, on everything!

I haven't lost any inverts either.

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SPS don't adjust to low calcium levels - they suffer and wither. 133ppm is not enough for any coral that I know of that produces a calcium carbonate skeleton.

 

What i mean is the low calcium levels didnt just happen overnight its been gradual. As the corals have grown so has their uptake of calcium and it seems that regular water changes havent been able to keep up with the demand. All sps dont just wither and die from low calcium they usually just stop growing. I agree with you that that reading is very low but thats why if i asked if the sample was sent before or after a waterchange.

 

Kalk drip was started today. Why is my Salifert testing at 490+ and they say it is 133, that is a significant difference. I guess I'm bringing a bottle of water to your place this weekend. :)

 

I know that seems way off..maybe its somewhere in the middle.I was thinking the same thing we can check it against my hanna checker.

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What i mean is the low calcium levels didnt just happen overnight its been gradual. As the corals have grown so has their uptake of calcium and it seems that regular water changes havent been able to keep up with the demand. All sps dont just wither and die from low calcium they usually just stop growing. I agree with you that that reading is very low but thats why if i asked if the sample was sent before or after a waterchange.

 

I know that seems way off..maybe its somewhere in the middle.I was thinking the same thing we can check it against my hanna checker.

 

The water sample I sent was before a water change. And I'm going to be honest I had gone on to week #2 without a water change (sump was scary, I didn't want to turn off the pump).

 

Update on the tank.

SC-65 skimmer is online!

Kalk drip started.

 

Lorax the YCG escaped again! I have foam on eggcrate blocking the baffles but he managed to jump the fence to the skimmer compartment. Is currently sitting next to the filter sock. Idiot.

Edited by metrokat
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The water sample I sent was before a water change. And I'm going to be honest I had gone on to week #2 without a water change (sump was scary, I didn't want to turn off the pump).

 

Update on the tank.

SC-65 skimmer in online!

Kalk drip started.

 

hmmm that definitely clears things up a bit.

 

Recently i stopped dosing calcium because i felt my saltmix added enough calcium between water changes and I always had readings of 450+ but after a few weeks i decided to test my calcium and found it had already dropped to 300. So i guess you really cant underestimate growing coral...Especially in our small systems.

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hmmm that definitely clears things up a bit.

 

Recently i stopped dosing calcium because i felt my saltmix added enough calcium between water changes and I always had readings of 450+ but after a few weeks i decided to test my calcium and found it had already dropped to 300. So i guess you really cant underestimate growing coral...Especially in our small systems.

beating-head-against-the-wall.gif

 

So it is also possible that low Calcium is also the cause of the SPS browning?

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beating-head-against-the-wall.gif

 

So it is also possible that low Calcium is also the cause of the SPS browning?

 

Possibly... like i said different species sometimes respond differently. I would say get your alk to 7-8dkh and your calcium to 420ppm(be sure to adjust it slowly) and keep it there. In a few weeks im sure those pieces will make a comeback.

 

SHE's a model. THEY send you a USPS priority mail sticker for your cooties.

 

You have me curious now kat i think i want to see what my "official" readings are. How long did it take to get back the results?

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You have me curious now kat i think i want to see what my "official" readings are. How long did it take to get back the results?

 

3 days max. They send you a little kit with bottles for the samples and a return sticker.

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3 days max. They send you a little kit with bottles for the samples and a return sticker.

 

hmmm thats a really fast turn around. Ill probably do that sooner than later. thanks for the info

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you can use 3 tsp and barely get any settling. I use 1 TBSP per gallon.

 

Wow fast moving thread Kat...Hope your calcium, dKh issues get resolved. I just wanted to chime in and let you know these two amounts Zeph gave are the same, -_-

 

Doesn't anyone cook around these parts? Or is it all reefing all the time? ha ha.

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Wow fast moving thread Kat...Hope your calcium, dKh issues get resolved. I just wanted to chime in and let you know these two amounts Zeph gave are the same, -_-

 

Doesn't anyone cook around these parts? Or is it all reefing all the time? ha ha.

You cook, I'll do the dishes! :)

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The tank was so pretty this morning I took some pictures in pajamas. :)

 

I guess the millipora isn't all that brown in a top down shot :)

IMG_9551.JPG

 

Niether is the Tubbs yellow Bird

IMG_9549.JPG

 

Nuclear Greens, and the Jason Fox Setosa I grew from a booger

IMG_9547.JPG

Also in this picture, my Jason Fox Orange eye leptastrea shows green when the polyps are retracted. This kind is known as a lucky charms leptastrea. :happydance:

Either way it's a score!

Edited by metrokat
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jedimasterben
Wow fast moving thread Kat...Hope your calcium, dKh issues get resolved. I just wanted to chime in and let you know these two amounts Zeph gave are the same, -_-

 

Doesn't anyone cook around these parts? Or is it all reefing all the time? ha ha.

Tsp = teaspoon, tbsp = tablespoon, equivalent to 3 teaspoons. ;)

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Tested the water

 

Calcium 490

dKH 8.6

Mag 1500+

 

Started dosing a low concentration of Kalk yesterday, very slow drip rate.

 

Calcium in fresh batch of salt water (Oceanic Salt)

500+

 

Going to do a water change today.

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jedimasterben
Tested the water

 

Calcium 490

dKH 8.6

Mag 1500+

 

Started dosing a low concentration of Kalk yesterday, very slow drip rate.

 

Calcium in fresh batch of salt water (Oceanic Salt)

500+

 

Going to do a water change today.

Thought you used Red Sea Coral Pro, not Oceanic....

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Thought you used Red Sea Coral Pro, not Oceanic....

I did, but Zeph freaked me out with the "she should use REGULAR" salt. So I used oceanic for this batch since I was going to start KALK.

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jedimasterben

I'm looking to switch back to IO or maybe regular Red Sea, depending on what has enough iodine and trace elements and such and then eventually start kalk. I use so little calcium right now even with as many stony corals as I have.

 

What I want to know is if there is anything detrimental about running salinity at 1.020 in a reef tank. I always see EVERYWHERE to run it at 1.026 because "it's better for corals", and I assume because people mix salt to there to get more calcium and carbonate into the water, but if dosing those elements already, via kalkwasser or 2-part or such, would it be better to run at 1.020? Water is better oxygenated at 1.020, and I'll be damned if I don't want that!

Edited by jedimasterben
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albertthiel
The tank was so pretty this morning I took some pictures in pajamas. :)

 

Very nice looking indeed ... where the light on yet and if so for how long ...

 

All look great from what I can see

 

Albert

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Very nice looking indeed ... where the light on yet and if so for how long ...

 

All look great from what I can see

 

Albert

Thank you Albert. The lights were on for 20 minutes before the pictures. Everything wasn't awake yet.

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I'm looking to switch back to IO or maybe regular Red Sea, depending on what has enough iodine and trace elements and such and then eventually start kalk. I use so little calcium right now even with as many stony corals as I have.

 

What I want to know is if there is anything detrimental about running salinity at 1.020 in a reef tank. I always see EVERYWHERE to run it at 1.026 because "it's better for corals", and I assume because people mix salt to there to get more calcium and carbonate into the water, but if dosing those elements already, via kalkwasser or 2-part or such, would it be better to run at 1.020? Water is better oxygenated at 1.020, and I'll be damned if I don't want that!

 

Lower salinity systems are popular and even benificial for fish only systems, but not in reef systems. Lower salinities are unnatural for most species. A less saline environment has been shown to kill many inverts, perticularly CLAMS, leathers and xenia (CALFO). Fish and quarantine systems benifit from lower salinities because it is conducive to ridding parasites (inverts). Im not sure about oxygen saturation at lower salinities, but lower temperatures definitely increase dissolved O2. I keep my reefs at 74 - 77F

 

Nuclear Greens, and the Jason Fox Setosa I grew from a booger

IMG_9547.JPG

Hey batgirl, Your clam is showing.

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