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  2. StinkyBunny

    Lula Mae's full circle 5.5--new pics!

    I have 2 40 Breeder tanks plumbed together, same water, same light and same gravel. They're as different as night and day. When y'all figure it out, email me, I wanna know how that's possible.
  3. seabass

    changing ro filters

    The carbon fines will partially clog the membrane. You should first flush the prefilter alone, then the carbon stage prior to connecting it to the RO membrane. If you've already done it, try flushing the membrane via the bypass valve (if you have one); otherwise you have to remove the flow restrictor to flush the membrane.
  4. Maybe someone here can help with this one. I bought a Retro fit for my 32 biocube from intank. It says 4 channel dimming but on bluefish it shows moonlight channel. When I up the % on the moonlight bar and 0% on the other channels my tank turns a greenish color. Do I have mint or....? Thanks
  5. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1730320 Elos fish food is supposed to be low in phosphate. I've always considered New Life Spectrum pellets to be a good food (though I'm not sure about the phosphate content).
  6. Lula_Mae

    2g Do!aqua cube

    Salinity for reefs is better kept around 1.025-1.026. Not sure why it would be so high from the LFS. Maybe they haven't tested? You could probably dilute with some distilled or RODI water. In general, corals and critters do better going from high to low salinity than the reverse. I killed a blasto frag and almost killed another by accidentally going from lower salinity to high salinity. Bubble coral looks awesome! And the goby is adorable. Hope he eats well for you!
  7. GraniteReefer

    Live Free or Reef; AI for April

    I just went a 4 week stretch of no WC’s with only some minor hair algae to show for it. Fritz and weatherbee are still causing chaos to the sandbed, weatherbee buried that orange ric and it somehow showed up underneath the blue one?!? Not sure how to save it as I don’t remove the rock so as not to fully disturb their den. Survival of the fittest and luckiest I suppose. I also changed the original air line from an algae covered clear tube to a shiny new black tube today with out an air stone as I can’t find one. Here it is a few hours after the WC you can see the GHA just above the Hammer and near the zoas, an easy kill for H2O2 it doesn’t have me losing any sleep. and a bunch of zoas that grew on the side of the top rock I can’t see from my average viewing angle, first time zoas have ever grown so well for me
  8. Lula_Mae

    Sarah Ann's 2.5g Pico

    I think if you find slower growing zoa varieties like Blondies, you'll be safe from any potential takeover. Only things I've had that grew fast enough to be a real concern were some seafoam green palys that browned out on me and fast moving stuff like GSP. I think it'd be worth trying a nice zoa or two if you want to. If you are looking at fish, I highly suggest a bimaculatus blenny--they are tiny and adorable! I had one in my contest jar. Looking very nice! Another heater I would suggest for this tank is the 25w Archea heater offered by Aqua Forest Aquariums. It is tiny (there are size pics posted on the Creative Container Contest thread back in October or so) and has an external thermostat and holds its temperature very well. I've had one in my 5.5 over a year and in my contest jar for 7 months and am very pleased with its rock-steady performance. It's also cheaper than the Neotherm.
  9. I’m Gunning for you cannedfish! Check out this growth and encrusting! Boom! Check out that tip growth 😎 though for some reason I have zero PE, I seem to have a red bug issue, so that may explain that, but they are encrusting nicely
  10. banasophia

    Nutri-Seawater SG 1.028

    Yes, thanks, I just got a Milwaukee refractometer, calibrate it each time. Tested the following water options I currently have on hand: Nutri-Seawater 1.028 (checked 3 samples) Imagitarium Seawater 1.026 Reef Crystals, premixed by LFS 1.025 Trying to find the best option for my tank without having to make the RODI and mix it myself. My corals seemed to love the Nutri-Seawater the most, but I noticed the SG could possibly run high. I switched to premixed from an LFS, but I got a bad batch of that once that had just been mixed and probably wasn’t thoroughly mixed yet (didn’t check the salinity first). Then I switched to the Imagitarium Seawater, but calcium was running low, so a different LFS convinced me to get Reef Crystals from them since it mixes to a higher calcium concentration, with an SG of 1.025, but I feel like my corals aren’t as happy since I switched. Plus, I just worry about human error with a lot of recent staff turnover at that LFS... So, if I go back to the Nutri-Seawater, would it be advisable to dilute, or just use as is?
  11. Lula_Mae

    Hopperdoggy's Pico

    That nepthea is gorgeous! Can't wait to see it all fluffy and happy. Rics are very nice too. I second the previous comment about the chalice, they can very much dominate a small space like this. Tank looks great!
  12. MrJDanP

    MrJDanP's Nano Reef Build

    Made a stop at the lfs today 😁 better pic to come after acclimation blasto, plating chalice, and frogspawn
  13. Indiana Reefin

    Tunze 9001 FT for media reactor

    I have a used Tunze 9001 FT for a media reactor. I modified the skimmer to have a drilled cup for a waste collector. No leaks or issues. Skimmer has been great. The only reason I am getting rid of it is because I am going to install a sump. I have the original box and include all the hose and fittings for the waste collector. If you don’t want to use the waste collector it can easily be plugged.
  14. DominicDuffy

    Aqua One 35 Nano Tank

    It said on the instructions to remove ro and di stage to flush for 15 mins. Then run the system for 30 mins. The system came fully assembled so there was nothing really I could do wrong.
  15. BeefyReefy

    changing ro filters

    No problem mate 👍😊
  16. BeefyReefy


    I blast the rocks every week before a water change religiously lol.
  17. Today
  18. A Little Blue

    Nutri-Seawater SG 1.028

    Also check/recalibrate your refractometer. Just to be sure.
  19. Dos Ocho

    3rd Time's a Charm - Disaster #2 ; Dinos :(

    It's been a while since i posted, and unfortunately i bear bad news. I have a growing infestation of the dreaded dinoflagellates. They are quickly overrunning the 40 gallon. And to top it off, i added some algae from the 40 to my biocube a few weeks ago and have a bloom growing in my cube now too. I've been researching all weekend and it looks like i have a long battle ahead. It's already closing up some corals, and i've had a few snail deaths in my 40 sump. My first attack is going to be a peroxide dose combined with a 3 day blackout starting tonight in both tanks. Seems to be a popular remedy based on my research, and a good first try. I realize i need to get my tank chemistry in order too, still figuring out how to do that. This sucks. I'd rather have clumps of bryopsis than this crap. I'm worried it may destroy both of my beloved tanks. Also, because of all the problems I've had, my love for reefing is beginning to wane. This is a fun, but horribly frustrating hobby. I've invested too much time and money to give up all together. If the worst happens and both tanks are unrecoverable, I'm going to save my fish and restart the 40 alone and have 1 tank. I'd probably get some live Florida rock and make it a macroalgae lagoon. I'm far from that point right now, just frustrated. Anywho, here's hoping for good luck. Fingers (and toes) crossed.....
  20. dferrari13

    Nutri-Seawater SG 1.028

    Natural seawater ranges from 1.028 to 1.025....so your good.... but also remember to calibrate your refractometer.... there was this one time that my refractometer was way off and I started correcting the salinity of my tank only to find that I had not calibrated my refractometer and almost screwed up my whole tank.... I did a quick test against my freshwater tank which of course should measure basically zero in specific gravity only to realize that I have to calibrate it
  21. Donny41


    My tanks two months old and I just started blasting the rocks (had some gha starting to build up) and it's amazing how much crap builds up over a short time, definitely seems beneficial as part of routine maintenance
  22. coryscritch

    changing ro filters

    Sweet, thanks!
  23. dferrari13

    Nutri-Seawater SG 1.028

    I used to use that sea water for years with no problems....before my local fish store switched over to the carib sea "sea -pure".....both are expensive but great water.... I don't want to be bothered with mixing salt crystals
  24. A Little Blue

    Nutri-Seawater SG 1.028

    Yes. I have used it a couple times in the past and it was in fact 1.028.
  25. dferrari13

    Fiji Yellow Splitting, or Unhappy?

    Thanks....Yup fusion 10....i use carib sea "sea-pure"....its pre mixed cuz I'm lazy lol but even the salt water I use has a low alk ....so im always fighting low alk with kalkwasser
  26. banasophia

    Fiji Yellow Splitting, or Unhappy?

    Thanks, I will look into that. May be switching water soon, so perhaps that will resolve the issue. Love your tank, btw, is that an IM Fusion 10?
  27. banasophia

    Fiji Yellow Splitting, or Unhappy?

    Thanks! How long does it usually take yours to go through the shedding process?
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