Adrock15659 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Jagers fit perfectly, I am running two 50w in mine they both fit in the same second chamber. So I take it the 75 watt jäger won't fit? It's 1 inch taller than the 50 watt and rated for tanks up to 26 gallons Quote Link to comment
Everardc Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Sorry, not be thick but what did you link? oops https://www.amazon.com/Coral-Compulsion-Par30-Vibrance-Light/dp/B0099UINTM/ref=pd_lpo_199_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WTTZQZRHCB7CZVGY4J9V Quote Link to comment
flatlandreefer Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 So I take it the 75 watt jäger won't fit? It's 1 inch taller than the 50 watt and rated for tanks up to 26 gallons My 50w are touching the bottom with the very top plastic part exposed so the 75w might be a little too tall. If you aren't going to use a temp controller you might consider two smaller heaters, if one fails (which it will eventually) it is less prone to overheating the tank and killing your livestock. Two smaller heaters or a controller, inkbird is what i ended up getting, seems like very cheap insurance to me! Quote Link to comment
Adrock15659 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 My 50w are touching the bottom with the very top plastic part exposed so the 75w might be a little too tall. If you aren't going to use a temp controller you might consider two smaller heaters, if one fails (which it will eventually) it is less prone to overheating the tank and killing your livestock. Two smaller heaters or a controller, inkbird is what i ended up getting, seems like very cheap insurance to me! Ok good to know! Quote Link to comment
MrZ2u Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 oops https://www.amazon.com/Coral-Compulsion-Par30-Vibrance-Light/dp/B0099UINTM/ref=pd_lpo_199_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WTTZQZRHCB7CZVGY4J9V okay...makes more sense now So you are saying you had this or the mars aqua over your lagoon? Quote Link to comment
Adrock15659 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 My 50w are touching the bottom with the very top plastic part exposed so the 75w might be a little too tall. If you aren't going to use a temp controller you might consider two smaller heaters, if one fails (which it will eventually) it is less prone to overheating the tank and killing your livestock. Two smaller heaters or a controller, inkbird is what i ended up getting, seems like very cheap insurance to me! Was checking out your build thread for your lagoon 25. I saw where another member asked you about the tank size. The one thing I'm am still not sure about is he 12" height of a view into the tank. What are your thoughts now that you have had the tank for awhile. You still like? Quote Link to comment
HelenofTroy Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 My my, this thread got active. In that case I'll ask a question too: Any recommendations for a doser? I don't want to do BRS dosers with timers. Isn't precise enough for me I think. I've heard mixed reviews about the Jaebo DP-4, but it is mighty cheap. GHL Doser 2 looks sexy but SO PRICEY. Apex Dos also looks nice, and also pricey. Can you use the Dos without the Apex controller? Quote Link to comment
flatlandreefer Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Was checking out your build thread for your lagoon 25. I saw where another member asked you about the tank size. The one thing I'm am still not sure about is he 12" height of a view into the tank. What are your thoughts now that you have had the tank for awhile. You still like? I really like the tank, the height is not an issue at all and I really like the depth. Yeah I need to update my build thread, just wish I had a better camera than my iphone. Quote Link to comment
Adrock15659 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I really like the tank, the height is not an issue at all and I really like the depth. Yeah I need to update my build thread, just wish I had a better camera than my iphone. Alright I'm pulling the trigger..... Heading out to Disney for the rest of the week and ordering when i get back if I have any money left that is. Will definitely start a build thread. 1 Quote Link to comment
Shoob1e Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I'm not sure what you mean by pump it. The gravel vac i am talking about is a small diameter length of flexible hose with a bigger diameter of ridged hose on the end of it, like a python water changer. You don't want to suck up very much sand just the dirty water full of detritus. I meant as in you actually vacuum it out of the tank completely or you use it to stir the sand up. Which is what I understood it does Quote Link to comment
cherokee2871 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 If it hasn't been part of your regular maintenance routine start by vacuuming a small area of your sand bed each water-change until you cover the whole thing. If you keep up with it there isn't much to worry about. I get a lot of crap out even when doing it every week, I focus on my low flow spots. Never doing this can lead to "old tank syndrome" after years of buildup and if you have a deep sand bed it can be a time bomb once after years of build up, one stir will release years of trapped nutrients. That's a ton of flow through the rear chamber! What's the goal of adding a sicce as a return pump, seems like there is adequate flow for filtration with the stock pump? Had two incase of failure. I like a lot of turnover in my tank I have them set about halfway as far as strength. Also installed nano streams on both returns and read that they slow the flow down. I wanted something that could still provide good flow with the nanostreams installed. It only happens with inTank media racks installed on both sides. I may turn them all the way down during this weeks water change and try installing the intank again because I hate having to wash the socks. Its much easier to change floss in both sides. Quote Link to comment
Everardc Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 okay...makes more sense now So you are saying you had this or the mars aqua over your lagoon? I have the Mars over my lagoon right now... I was saying i had ONE of those par 38s over a 29 gallon in the past and it grew everything... Also, to the people wondering about heaters. I have the Aqueon PRO 100w and it fits perfectly in the heater column. I really like the tank, the height is not an issue at all and I really like the depth. Yeah I need to update my build thread, just wish I had a better camera than my iphone. I need to update mine soon too haha.. been slackin! Quote Link to comment
cherokee2871 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Finnex HMX 100W Heater with Digital Controller Fits perfect in the back and has a controller built in. Its the one I have installed in between my two return pumps in the middle return chamber. Quote Link to comment
HelenofTroy Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Guess no one uses a doser on this tank? Quote Link to comment
MrZ2u Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Well mine has a tracking number so it has begun.Skimmer questions. Tunze 9001 seems like it ought to be just fine. Any reason to think otherwise? Quote Link to comment
malady Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Well mine has a tracking number so it has begun. Skimmer questions. Tunze 9001 seems like it ought to be just fine. Any reason to think otherwise? It fine as long as you don't mind modding it Quote Link to comment
KyleAwesome Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Joining the club. Pulled the trigger today. I'll start a build/transfer thread when everything arrives. Going to move all the livestock and equipment from my 10. In the end it'll have IM lagoon 25 2x Kessil A80 w/ goosenecks + controller 1 aquatop 237gph + spinstream on one return, the stock pump on the other. (Hopefully this is enough flow to avoid an in-tank powerhead) 2x CustomCaddies BRS screen top kit I'm probably going to build a stand, definitely not going with the IM stand. I'm going to try and hit the ikea and home depot this weekend see if I can find a base cabinet and counter top I can make into a stand, otherwise I'm going to have build one. I've seen some nice plywood builds, I'm just not excited about building the doors. Heres a shot of the current setup, I cant wait for all the extra room. Quote Link to comment
kimberbee Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Joining the club. Pulled the trigger today. I'll start a build/transfer thread when everything arrives. Going to move all the livestock and equipment from my 10. In the end it'll have IM lagoon 25 2x Kessil A80 w/ goosenecks + controller 1 aquatop 237gph + spinstream on one return, the stock pump on the other. (Hopefully this is enough flow to avoid an in-tank powerhead) 2x CustomCaddies BRS screen top kit I'm probably going to build a stand, definitely not going with the IM stand. I'm going to try and hit the ikea and home depot this weekend see if I can find a base cabinet and counter top I can make into a stand, otherwise I'm going to have build one. I've seen some nice plywood builds, I'm just not excited about building the doors. Heres a shot of the current setup, I cant wait for all the extra room. Just some quick input - I built a stand and ordered a laminate counter top from Menards. The top came with a bow in it that I did not notice at first, but a few months after using it as a top there is a NOTICEABLE gap under my tank. I went back to Menards, and checked Home Depot too, but ALL the laminate tops had a slight bow. In order to go a step up on material (Corinthian) It was going to be almost $300. So instead I got two extra pieces of leveling mat that will hopefully fix the gap. Quote Link to comment
Shoob1e Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Just built a stand in the middle of sanding and staining. Have everything but rock dont know what i want to use yet. Quote Link to comment
KyleAwesome Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Just some quick input - I built a stand and ordered a laminate counter top from Menards. The top came with a bow in it that I did not notice at first, but a few months after using it as a top there is a NOTICEABLE gap under my tank. I went back to Menards, and checked Home Depot too, but ALL the laminate tops had a slight bow. In order to go a step up on material (Corinthian) It was going to be almost $300. So instead I got two extra pieces of leveling mat that will hopefully fix the gap. Kimberbee, thanks for the word of caution, how think is that countertop you purchased? I've tried to design around this concern, and while I havent settled on exactly how its going to be constructed I'm thinking I'll use either a stone top or double up two pieces of 3/4th inch plywood. Given the dimensions I'm thinking I'll use a 1x3" hardwood span for the header (top box the tank sits on) and probably run two cross braces from front to back, so the largest "unsupported" span of plywood would be 12". I'm idea is to go with a modified rocket engineer stand but use 1x3 dimensional for the top box and 1x2 for the rest then skin that in 1/2" plywood. Glue and pocket hole all of the joints. Hopefully that'd be stout enough to avoid any bowing issues. I suppose we shall see! Just built a stand in the middle of sanding and staining. Have everything but rock dont know what i want to use yet. Shoob1e, mind sharing your creation? Quote Link to comment
Shoob1e Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Kimberbee, thanks for the word of caution, how think is that countertop you purchased? I've tried to design around this concern, and while I havent settled on exactly how its going to be constructed I'm thinking I'll use either a stone top or double up two pieces of 3/4th inch plywood. Given the dimensions I'm thinking I'll use a 1x3" hardwood span for the header (top box the tank sits on) and probably run two cross braces from front to back, so the largest "unsupported" span of plywood would be 12". I'm idea is to go with a modified rocket engineer stand but use 1x3 dimensional for the top box and 1x2 for the rest then skin that in 1/2" plywood. Glue and pocket hole all of the joints. Hopefully that'd be stout enough to avoid any bowing issues. I suppose we shall see! Shoob1e, mind sharing your creation? Once its stained ya my first one so its not the best by any means Quote Link to comment
JLynn Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Joining the club. Pulled the trigger today. I'll start a build/transfer thread when everything arrives. Going to move all the livestock and equipment from my 10. In the end it'll have IM lagoon 25 2x Kessil A80 w/ goosenecks + controller 1 aquatop 237gph + spinstream on one return, the stock pump on the other. (Hopefully this is enough flow to avoid an in-tank powerhead) 2x CustomCaddies BRS screen top kit I'm probably going to build a stand, definitely not going with the IM stand. I'm going to try and hit the ikea and home depot this weekend see if I can find a base cabinet and counter top I can make into a stand, otherwise I'm going to have build one. I've seen some nice plywood builds, I'm just not excited about building the doors. Heres a shot of the current setup, I cant wait for all the extra room. Why do you need doors at all? It's an AIO, so there's no messy sump or lighting underneath to hide behind doors. And you can build a nice clean stand without any doors at all. It'll look more like a bookshelf than a cabinet, but there's nothing wrong with that! Quote Link to comment
kimberbee Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Kimberbee, thanks for the word of caution, how think is that countertop you purchased? I've tried to design around this concern, and while I havent settled on exactly how its going to be constructed I'm thinking I'll use either a stone top or double up two pieces of 3/4th inch plywood. Given the dimensions I'm thinking I'll use a 1x3" hardwood span for the header (top box the tank sits on) and probably run two cross braces from front to back, so the largest "unsupported" span of plywood would be 12". I think it's about 3/4in. But I think because of the material, and however Menards made it, it very likely came bowed already. You're probably ok with doubled up 3/4in plywood. That was what I was considering using to replace the top I have now. Instead, I'm just going to double up on some thick leveling mat material. Quote Link to comment
KyleAwesome Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Why do you need doors at all? It's an AIO, so there's no messy sump or lighting underneath to hide behind doors. And you can build a nice clean stand without any doors at all. It'll look more like a bookshelf than a cabinet, but there's nothing wrong with that! I've thought about going with a solid face design, or perhaps just a panel held in by magnets or something along those lines. However the reason for the door is the wife, the current tank is in the living room next to our couch, however the new one is going directly across from the couch, right in the viewing area of anyone we're entertaining and all that. She wont let me have the ATO, UPS, various cords, supplements, and other gadgets hanging out for all to see. I think it's about 3/4in. But I think because of the material, and however Menards made it, it very likely came bowed already. You're probably ok with doubled up 3/4in plywood. That was what I was considering using to replace the top I have now. Instead, I'm just going to double up on some thick leveling mat material. Good luck! I hope it works out for you, thats one thing Im afraid of, building the stand setting up the tank only to realize I screwed up some aspect of it and having to tear it down for a rebuild. 1 Quote Link to comment
MrZ2u Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 It fine as long as you don't mind modding it Care to elaborate? Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.