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Top Shelf Aquatics

Kat's Ol' Max


metrokat

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Slip you need to glue. Threaded you need to be friends with Teflon tape.

 

3/4" is the inner diameter of the pipe, so a 3/4" bulkhead will need 3/4" plumbing.

 

What I have, and what I would recommend to use, is slip on the flange side (this is the side that has the gasket and sits on the inside of the tank) and threaded on the other side. This way, you only need to stick the drain/return plumbing into the top (you do not need to glue these) for easy removal and cleaning if need be, and the bottom is threaded so that if you need for any reason to change the plumbing you do not need to purchase a new bulkhead.

 

What Ben said. Don't glue the top. Had to remove mine last night and I glued the top which meant the bulkhead had to come out. Even after trying to drain everything...water everywhere :wacko:

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What Ben said. Don't glue the top. Had to remove mine last night and I glued the top which meant the bulkhead had to come out. Even after trying to drain everything...water everywhere :wacko:

whaaat! How did you get water everywhere after draining it?

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jedimasterben

What Ben said. Don't glue the top. Had to remove mine last night and I glued the top which meant the bulkhead had to come out. Even after trying to drain everything...water everywhere :wacko:

Yup, best idea I've ever had, i think lol. I was able to extend my durso standpipe by like 4" without even having to turn off the return pump :D

 

whaaat! How did you get water everywhere after draining it?

Because you can't drain all of the water.

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whaaat! How did you get water everywhere after draining it?

Again what Ben said (is this always the case! :lol:) can't get all the water out. So tonight I get to take the sump out to dry the water that got behind/under it.

 

Lesson learned. Don't glue return pipe to bulkhead inside tank!

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I personally like all threaded, as I hate being unable to really take it all apart for cleaning/repair/replacement.

 

It's just more spots to leak. You shouldn't really have to take the manifold apart completely to clean. Just undo the union connecting it to the return, and soak it in vinegar. Clean as can be :)

 

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Anybody?

You put a union above the return pump.

 

Just go to your local lowes and look for em. Every store is different. Maybe I got lucky that my store had grey ones.

None of the Lowes or Home Depots sell grey or schedule 80 here.
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And where does the check valve go? Above the union, below? right below the bulkheads?

Above the union. Why are you using a check valve do people actually use those? I have never used one other than for a sump pump. I just make sure my sump can handle all the water that back siphons from the display.

 

Why do you NEED a check valve ?

:)
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I'm actually going to agree with the skipping the check valve. Size your sump to be able to handle the back flow until the water level in your tank is below that of the return. I say this, because check valves commonly fail.

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Well good morning!.

 

I've received as many "install a check valve" comments as "don't". :blink:



I know Rehype uses one but I don't think he has a choice with the Zero Edge.

And Zia and Christine



Why do you NEED a check valve ?

Currently the back siphon in the RSM lowers the water level to the point that the Kartopora is exposed to air far more than it needs to be. The sump can handle the extra water, so that is not the worry.

Also , too, the tubing for the dosers touch the water when the level in the sump rises, this blocks the tubing (can't remember if it's the alk or calcium that gets jammed)

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jedimasterben

Currently the back siphon in the RSM lowers the water level to the point that the Kartopora is exposed to air far more than it needs to be.

Think about why that is. You're running the most conflabulistic overflow/return system (yes, I made that up, get over it :P) that has your return several inches below the top rim of your RSM. When it loses pressure, it starts a siphon going back down into the sump and siphons until air enters the tube and breaks the siphon. Your RSM has overflow grates on it that allow the water level in the display to go down along with the back chamber where the return tube is, and that is why you are having the issue.

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Well good morning!.

 

I've received as many "install a check valve" comments as "don't". :blink:

 

And Zia and Christine

 

Currently the back siphon in the RSM lowers the water level to the point that the Kartopora is exposed to air far more than it needs to be. The sump can handle the extra water, so that is not the worry.

Also , too, the tubing for the dosers touch the water when the level in the sump rises, this blocks the tubing (can't remember if it's the alk or calcium that gets jammed)

 

most check valves suck, the good ones cost $$ and are never pvc. I paid 70$ for a 1/8 ID stainless one for my co2 regulator post body build. I mean yeh it woulda been like 40 less in brass but the whole builds in stainless.

 

A big reason why check valves suck, they get gunk caught in them and limit the flow rate through them once the gunk builds up they fail to check the water from backflowing. If you get one look inside of it at the irregular path water has to flow through it.

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