TheKleinReef Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 katopora kat's whateverata katubulata. bahah. this list must grow. 2 Quote Link to comment
Cameron6796 Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 As for a culture, the best method for anybody is just to have a small macro tank, a pico even, with no fish. Add your starter cultures of whatever pods and leave them to grow for 3 months. put a bunch of rubble rocks together in netting to make a pod hotel. You harvest by pulling the hotel from the macro tank to your mandarin tank. Rotate between 2 hotels. What about light? How often do you rotate. Quote Link to comment
Cameron6796 Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Did I miss something ... Peanut is in Omaha? .. I don't even remember what peanut was... A clam? Quote Link to comment
jbb Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Did I miss something ... Peanut is in Omaha? .. I don't even remember what peanut was... A clam? Mantis Quote Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 I'm about to get Pistol Petey Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 I'm about to get Pistol Petey Half of Pete the pistol. Half a star although I haven't seen the star since last week. Quote Link to comment
hypostatic Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 wait, why use a gravity doser instead of a timed pump doser? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 wait, why use a gravity doser instead of a timed pump doser? Submersible pump will still clog with artemia eggs. Something like Toms will also. Perhaps the answer is the airline. So that keeps the eggs in solution and then any doser will work. But I want to use the gravity doser because I honestly have no more outlets to plug anything electrical into. On another note: Is there another pump that works like toms? siphons in and out while not needing to be a submersible? Quote Link to comment
ZephNYC Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 My trial jar of phosguard arrived. Need some hand holding. Throw a bunch in a bag and stick it in the filter sock is the idea. And then the IM reactor will just have carbon. Re-charged the purigen. Time to throw those bags in as well. Hey what if I tumbled purigen in the reactor? It will be interesting to see if your tank responds to the aluminum. Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 It will be interesting to see if your tank responds to the aluminum. Responds how? What am I looking for? Quote Link to comment
Lynaea Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Kat, have you seen Paul.b's mandarin/pipefish hatcher-feeder on Albert Thiel's thread, it sounded like a pretty simple set-up and he was reporting good results. I think the pics and description are 1-2 pages back at this point. Quote Link to comment
ZephNYC Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Responds how? What am I looking for? Some soft corals respond negatively to aluminum. Not only that, but it's far far better at absorbing phosphates than gfo is, and the rapid and absolute zero phosphate levels for prolonged periods have been speculated to trigger ..... Oh no.... RTN. Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Oh good thing I've never had zero phosphates. There is probably a lot more in my system than the 0.02 and 0.03 my test kits show. But it is bound up in the macros. I will have to watch zoanthids and their negative response, ive only just started to get them happier again. Kat, have you seen Paul.b's mandarin/pipefish hatcher-feeder on Albert Thiel's thread, it sounded like a pretty simple set-up and he was reporting good results. I think the pics and description are 1-2 pages back at this point.The round disc thing with the netting and tubing? Yes ive seen that. I had made a similar diner for my first mandarin and he loved eating frozen out if it. I was looking at this as dripping decapsulated artemia eggs into the tank in a controlled manner. Some will get eaten as is some might hatch and then get eaten. Quote Link to comment
ZephNYC Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 What po test kit u use? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 What po test kit u use? salifert Quote Link to comment
Lynaea Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 The round disc thing with the netting and tubing? Yes ive seen that. I had made a similar diner for my first mandarin and he loved eating frozen out if it. I was looking at this as dripping decapsulated artemia eggs into the tank in a controlled manner. Some will get eaten as is some might hatch and then get eaten. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/305180-the-official-ask-albert-thiel-thread/page-648 Its post #16183 (not sure how to link directly). He has it set up to dump in some eggs allow them to hatch and then escape through box thing (he explains it better ). So it hatches them and feeds, I would think the decapsulated ones would escape, hatched or not??? Quote Link to comment
Veng Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Some soft corals respond negatively to aluminum. Not only that, but it's far far better at absorbing phosphates than gfo is, and the rapid and absolute zero phosphate levels for prolonged periods have been speculated to trigger ..... Oh no.... RTN. To get aluminium leaching from the phosphoguard, you have to both over does AND pH has to be at levels that would kill your tank, like 5.3. You're corals are long since disolving back into the water at this point. Phosophaguard has published a study on the chemistry despite people having concerns on the aluminium leaching. http://www.seachem.com/support/AluminumSolubilityToxicity.pdf As for the low phosphate level, yes hyper low levels will have a negative affect on your tank, but it won't cause RTN, it'll cause STN. My experiance with the over dosing was a ~25X recommended dose and that only cause STN, never RTN. As for phosphoguard vs GFO, I've been happier with phosphguard just because of the size and shape of the particals makes it much easier to change in the reactor than GFO and visual indicators are easier when it's exhausted. 2 Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 To get aluminium leaching from the phosphoguard, you have to both over does AND pH has to be at levels that would kill your tank, like 5.3. You're corals are long since disolving back into the water at this point. Phosophaguard has published a study on the chemistry despite people having concerns on the aluminium leaching. http://www.seachem.com/support/AluminumSolubilityToxicity.pdf As for the low phosphate level, yes hyper low levels will have a negative affect on your tank, but it won't cause RTN, it'll cause STN. My experiance with the over dosing was a ~25X recommended dose and that only cause STN, never RTN. As for phosphoguard vs GFO, I've been happier with phosphguard just because of the size and shape of the particals makes it much easier to change in the reactor than GFO and visual indicators are easier when it's exhausted. So you have it in the reactor? Why is tumbling (or upflow reactor without tumbling) better than running it passively with a bunch in a bag inside the filter sock? 1 Quote Link to comment
Veng Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 So you have it in the reactor? Why is tumbling (or upflow reactor without tumbling) better than running it passively with a bunch in a bag inside the filter sock? Minde doesn't tumble, just upflow. And there's not much difference between that and running it in a bag in the sock as long as your setup forces water to actually go through the sock rather than around it. I know many people simply toss a bag in the sump where there's virtually no flow through the bag, that will dramatically reduce the effectiveness. Quote Link to comment
ZephNYC Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 To get aluminium leaching from the phosphoguard, you have to both over does AND pH has to be at levels that would kill your tank, like 5.3. You're corals are long since disolving back into the water at this point. Phosophaguard has published a study on the chemistry despite people having concerns on the aluminium leaching. http://www.seachem.com/support/AluminumSolubilityToxicity.pdf'>http://www.seachem.com/support/AluminumSolubilityToxicity.pdf As for the low phosphate level, yes hyper low levels will have a negative affect on your tank, but it won't cause RTN, it'll cause STN. My experiance with the over dosing was a ~25X recommended dose and that only cause STN, never RTN. As for phosphoguard vs GFO, I've been happier with phosphguard just because of the size and shape of the particals makes it much easier to change in the reactor than GFO and visual indicators are easier when it's exhausted. All I know is I remember Julian talking about soft coral, and particularly leathers, having issues with aluminum based removers. It's also in one of his books. Quote Link to comment
Veng Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 All I know is I remember Julian talking about soft coral, and particularly leathers, having issues with aluminum based removers. It's also in one of his books. Which is the source of the widely held myth and that myth is the reason there was a scientific study done to evaluate the claims. If you'd like antedoal evidence instead of scientific, I run phosphoguard and have a leather and it is healthy and happy... 2 Quote Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Which is the source of the widely held myth and that myth is the reason there was a scientific study done to evaluate the claims. If you'd like antedoal evidence instead of scientific, I run phosphoguard and have a leather and it is healthy and happy... I've got a couple of leathers and usually always have a bag of Phosguard somewhere. If they're happy in even my tank, then they're ok with it. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/7/chemistry The above shows tests using Phosguard. RHF put 75mL of Phosguard into 500mL of water and measured the concentration after set periods of time, some using mechanical filtration and some without. Keep in mind that Phosguard should be used with around 250mL per 300L, and the tests that RHF did were at around 180x the concentration (I think my math is right on that?). Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/305180-the-official-ask-albert-thiel-thread/page-648 Its post #16183 (not sure how to link directly). He has it set up to dump in some eggs allow them to hatch and then escape through box thing (he explains it better ). So it hatches them and feeds, I would think the decapsulated ones would escape, hatched or not??? Oh I see it now. Paul makes such interesting gizmos doesn't he. Unfortunately that thing is way too big for my tank and (on the off chance that I come off as a salty snob) I really like my display tank to be a display. That's why you have sumps, to hide equipment and not have it in the main tank. A temporary doo hickee is doable but with BBS, it's a constant feed so this is not a good solution IMO. I'm not happy with my display with the frag rack always in there and I admire and envy perfectly manicured tanks like Nano Topia, Nano Sapien, ReHype, AJ, to mention a few. I have brief periods where the frag rack is removed (God Bless Benny for cleaning out one entire frag rack for me today). 1 Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 Prada sale on Zulily. 4 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.