seabass Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 I might want take it off the tank to bend it. You wouldn't want to bend the long adjustable section. You'd bend the joints. However, bending them further would weaken the metal a little, and you don't want it breaking and the light falling into your tank. I'd contact the manufacturer. Show them your pics and maybe the can send you a new arm (or even replace the whole unit). Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 3 hours ago, seabass said: I might want take it off the tank to bend it. You wouldn't want to bend the long adjustable section. You'd bend the joints. However, bending them further would weaken the metal a little, and you don't want it breaking and the light falling into your tank. I'd contact the manufacturer. Show them your pics and maybe the can send you a new arm (or even replace the whole unit). There is still a small angle due to the rim, I saw after that it is not design for rimmed tanks so it's a bit my fault I don't want to bend it in case I break it or weakens it. I think I'll leave it as is. Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 Is cyano affected by light reduction? Dino-x specifies that it's not a product to fight cyano but there is also cyano reduction in the 50g. Quote Link to comment
seabass Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 The rules are all different now that you are dosing Dino-X. I'd be doing a major cleanup (removing as much detritus, cyano, and dinos as possible) prior to each dose. The no water change rule is out the window. I'd probably also stop dosing phyto and switch to spirulina powder. I would think that activated might remove Dino-X, so I might remove that unless the instructions say otherwise. Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 41 minutes ago, seabass said: The rules are all different now that you are dosing Dino-X. I'd be doing a major cleanup (removing as much detritus, cyano, and dinos as possible) prior to each dose. The no water change rule is out the window. I'd probably also stop dosing phyto and switch to spirulina powder. I would think that activated might remove Dino-X, so I might remove that unless the instructions say otherwise. I'm following the complete instructions from the website. So the no water change is still the rule as it is clearly mentionned in the instructions as no dosing sps food (would that include phyto or spirulina?) So I've stopped dosing anything in the 50g except for dino-x I will remove as much algae, dinos and cyano and I should have done it before dose #1. Will do right now. Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 Also I removed the carbon before starting dino-x and will use new carbon at the end of the treatment with then a water change. Quote Link to comment
seabass Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 30 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said: I'm following the complete instructions from the website. So the no water change is still the rule as it is clearly mentionned in the instructions as no dosing sps food (would that include phyto or spirulina?) Good, follow the instructions. Yes, that would probably include phyto and spirulina. 32 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said: I will remove as much algae, dinos and cyano and I should have done it before dose #1. Will do right now. I'm not sure how that would be possible if the no water change recommendation is still the rule. Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 On 8/22/2021 at 9:09 PM, Jakesaw said: I let the DINO settle at bottom of bucket and use a cup to get about 80 percent of cleanish water back into my tank @seabass I did something like that. 1 Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 Just saw dinos with the microscope in a sample of brown algae from the 10g. The goods news is that there was really few (I counted 5 in a sample that would have counted 200 if it was from the 50g). 99.9% of the sample was diatoms. I have a bottle of pods (2 types mix: apocyclops panamensis and tisbe) freshly haversted and picked up this morning at Canada Aquamarine and it's going in the 10g tonight. No intention to use dino-x in that tank. Dosing pods regulary and phyto every night. Dosing silicate once a week (5 drops). In the picture you can see only one dino. Quote Link to comment
Tired Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 Some amount of dinos in a reef tank is normal. They're present in most tanks, it's just when conditions swing their way that they become a problem. So, make sure the 10g never has low nutrients, and you should be fine. 5 Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 Dino-x dose #2 8ml Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 25, 2021 Author Share Posted August 25, 2021 About the phyto culture, why do some people use bleach in the solution and then a dechlorinator. Why would you want it to be sterile? I understand that this is not the way you do it @seabass Quote Link to comment
seabass Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 You want the bottles clean and clear. You can use a bottle brush, or vinegar, or even bleach to clean the bottles. Obviously if you use bleach, you should rinse it out (and even use a dechlorinator to neutralize any residential bleach). Quote Link to comment
Tired Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 The concern with culturing phyto is that creatures which eat phyto can make their way into the culture, which will drastically reduce production if there are too many. If you sterilize it between batches, it helps stop that from happening. 1 Quote Link to comment
Murphs_Reef Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 On 8/24/2021 at 12:44 AM, Kindanewtothis said: Thrimed the lip, added high density polyethylene but this chinese lamp won't come to the right angle (but it's better than it was). I'm thinking of getting a second lamp to place on the other side since the lamp could not be place on the back wall (the lamp support is longer than the tank is wide even in the shortest position, ideal for 15 inch wide tank but not 12) To be fair that's how I point my primes, so the light doesn't spill as much into the living room. 2 Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 25, 2021 Author Share Posted August 25, 2021 8 hours ago, seabass said: You want the bottles clean and clear. You can use a bottle brush, or vinegar, or even bleach to clean the bottles. Obviously if you use bleach, you should rinse it out (and even use a dechlorinator to neutralize any residential bleach). 8 hours ago, Tired said: The concern with culturing phyto is that creatures which eat phyto can make their way into the culture, which will drastically reduce production if there are too many. If you sterilize it between batches, it helps stop that from happening. I meant bleach in the culture, not bleach in the empty bottle to clean it. Maybe it's for the same reason. Quote Link to comment
seabass Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 I can't think of any reason to add bleach to the culture itself. Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 25, 2021 Author Share Posted August 25, 2021 10 minutes ago, seabass said: I can't think of any reason to add bleach to the culture itself. I would post the link but it's in french... Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 25, 2021 Author Share Posted August 25, 2021 "L’eau de javel permet de stériliser la mixture, ainsi que la bouteille et le tube rigide. Le déchlorinateur permet de neutraliser l’eau de javel. Donc, après 12 heures, vous avez une solution stérile prête pour utilisation." @M. Tournesol @Melfy77 ? Why sterilize the culture itself? Quote Link to comment
M. Tournesol Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said: I would post the link but it's in french... You could, I am French. Sterilizing the container is common (and the true method). Thus, only phytoplankton is cultivated and not some random bacteria growing faster. But, I never read any tutorial which recommends adding bleach to a culture. Edited August 25, 2021 by M. Tournesol Quote Link to comment
Kindanewtothis Posted August 25, 2021 Author Share Posted August 25, 2021 1 minute ago, M. Tournesol said: You could, I am French. Sterilizing the container is common (and the true method) in such a way that only phytoplankton is cultivated and not some random bacteria growing faster. But, I never read any tutorial which recommends adding bleach to a culture. https://canadaaquamarine.ca/blogs/phytoplancton-101/test3 Quote Link to comment
Melfy77 Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 Just now, M. Tournesol said: You could, I am French. Sterilizing the container is common (and the true method) in such a way that only phytoplankton is cultivated and not some random bacteria growing faster. But, I never read any tutorial which recommends adding bleach to a culture. Same here...I've never done cultures before but I find it weird to add bleach to the actual mixture Quote Link to comment
M. Tournesol Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 5 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said: "L’eau de javel permet de stériliser la mixture, ainsi que la bouteille et le tube rigide. Le déchlorinateur permet de neutraliser l’eau de javel. Donc, après 12 heures, vous avez une solution stérile prête pour utilisation." @M. Tournesol @Melfy77 ? Why sterilize the culture itself? I don't think he is speaking about the culture. He must be speaking of the culture media (ie. the liquid in which you will add the phytoplankton). In this case, yes it is normal. Quote Link to comment
M. Tournesol Posted August 25, 2021 Share Posted August 25, 2021 see Quote Dans la seconde bouteille, ajouter le phyto et la même quantité de la solution stérile. Quote Link to comment
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