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About seabass

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  1. I haven't told her yet. I'm pretty sure that one of these days she'll go downstairs and ask, "WHAT IS THIS?" I'll tell her, and it will be fine. Otherwise she would have told me I have other things that I should be doing. I'm hoping it will be all setup and pretty by the time I'm discovered.
  2. Looks like we're going to have some fancy aquascapes. Looking forward to seeing everyone's works of art.
  3. It'd be nice to know if we could run two HOB filters (as long as the total volume of the two didn't exceed 0.5 gallons).
  4. Alright, you'll need a 1" bulkhead on the bottom of the return chamber to connect your plumbing to the pump. If the output of the pump is going up over the walls, then a second bulkhead isn't required.
  5. Not sure, but (if under 0.5 gallons) I don't see why not.
  6. Agreed. There are very few sea stars which can be kept in a nano. Some people have good luck with peppermint shrimp; however, I haven't. At least in my tanks, they have tended to pick at corals and anemones. I've had much better success with skunk cleaner shrimp. Plus, I find them more visually appealing.
  7. If it's truly going to be external, then you'll need a bulkhead to connect plumbing to any wet wall. I got to be honest, I'm not fully following your plan. That doesn't mean that it's wrong, just that I'm not visualizing it. Yeah, you are right, tubing gets pretty stiff beyond 3/4" ID (really beyond 1/2"). Braided flex tubing can be straightened by submerging it in very hot water. IDK, that might help a little.
  8. Yeah, you can use a toothbrush to remove algae from a rock. Take it out of your tank, brush it off, rinse it in algae free saltwater (can be water you removed during a water change), then return.
  9. I agree with Snow_Phoenix, and a proper algae identification isn't absolutely necessary. Well... we know nitrate is a bit high, and who knows what phosphate numbers are. So a nutrient problem is likely contributing. Water changes and maintenance are critical. And as Snow_Phoenix suggested, use a turkey baster and blow detritus off of the rocks, then siphon detritus off of the sand. The other factor is your water supply. You are using RO water. While certainly better than tap water, it still can contain nutrients. This is tough because water changes won't lower nutrients any lower than the level in the RO water. When I first started, I was using RO water and had a nutrient problem. I ended up testing it and it contained 40 ppm of nitrate. Check your water, do some water changes (and maintenance), and add more snails.
  10. For corals, I like to wait until an inevitable ugly stage has passed. I find it's easier to deal with without corals and why risk losing them to a cyano bloom. Diatoms, cyano, and green hair algae are all common things we fight early on. Once you get your maintenance down, parameters stable, and nuisance blooms under control, you should be good to go for corals.
  11. And it's a little grey, but you could probably cycle some rock in another container (seeing as rock from an another tank will likely be allowed). I bet you'd even be able to epoxy some dry rock together, as long as the tank was empty and dry at the start. HOB filter, and top mods most likely wouldn't be disallowed if performed now. But I feel that everything should be documented, and therefore should probably wait. I know it's hard to wait. I've ordered a light, and already have a tank, filter, top, and my aquarium decorations. Oh, and full disclosure, I'm cycling rock and sand in a five gallon bucket. While this might be a 100 yard head start, over the course of a marathon, it shouldn't amount to anything. Actually, people posting quickly will be giving ideas to those who haven't fully planned out their projects yet.
  12. Wait. Wait at least a couple weeks for the clownfish, and I'd wait a few months for the anemone. As far as phosphate testing, I probably wouldn't bother with either kit. Algae growth will be a better indicator.
  13. Although Seachem's test is much better than API's phosphate kit, it is still very difficult to distinguish 0.00 and 0.05 ppm. Again, it's a higher range kit: Now some people will say that a phosphate kit isn't really necessary, but I feel that it can tell you a lot. The trouble comes after you get an algae bloom or cyano. Then the bloom starts to consume the available inorganic phosphate in the tank, making the tests read lower. In these cases, testing may not be effective, even with a proper test kit.
  14. I certainly hope that I didn't help promote that sentiment. It's true that many contest tanks get taken down after the contests are over (restrictions or not). However, I know a number of people that have plans to continue their 2.5 gallon picos long term. I get that the restrictions might not appeal to all. But I'm glad that you will still be following along.
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