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About seabass

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  1. Yes. Low phosphate can be a limiting factor for your chaeto. Not the worst problem to have. However, on the other hand, your nuisance algae might be harder to deal with. The problem is that if you increase the input of phosphate, the nuisance algae might utilize it, making the problem even worse. It could also be using silicate. Maybe this might help: You might have to deal with your nuisance algae first, then work on establishing you chaeto.
  2. to Do a search and check out the tanks you are considering. See what others like or dislike about that tank. Also, see what they are using for equipment, filtration, and what livestock they have.
  3. Yeah, GFCI outlets have saved my bacon a few times. The latest was when I accidentally flooded the basement while filling a Brute container with water. I got distracted and it overflowed, spilling water all over the floor, which hit some electrical cords. I was standing in the water as the GFCI outlets where tripping.
  4. Well... that's a problem, because how do they propose we reduce the population by half? Let's hope they aren't working on how best to accomplish that. Really... everything? I take it that you mean negatively. I'd hardly lump the development of solar and wind power, or other renewable resources into this characterisation. How about the development of electrolyzers that split water into hydrogen and oxygen, making hydrogen fuel whose only emission is water? When produced with solar and/or wind power, hydrogen fuel has the potential to change how we power vehicles (without carbon impact). No, instead of trying to roll back the clock to a point where the population was smaller and technology was less sophisticated, we need to continue to innovate and develop new technologies for the world we live in today.
  5. You're too new to remember members like @Kraylen. Those were the days. Did you know there's a club for people with more than 15,000 posts? It's pretty great! I hope you know that I'm just joking. #16000+posts
  6. Yes, but don't add any more ammonia. You won't see a lot of nitrate unless there is a significant source of ammonia. Plus, the live rock itself (or more specifically, denitrifying bacteria) might be processing some of the nitrate. After another week, you might even add a small fish.
  7. I agree. Dosing ammonia could harm or kill non-bacterial life on real ocean live rock. Plus, it should already have enough nitrifying bacteria to support a small bio-load. However, if it started off as dry rock, then follow the fishless cycling guide that Clown79 linked.
  8. to That's a big request. Clown79 did a decent job outlining some of the equipment. But like she said, we really need to know a little bit more. Knowing what you plan on doing will help us recommend more suitable equipment. Like her, I'd also recommend using a sump (maybe just a 29 gallon tank with a baffle). You could drill your display tank and get a Glass-Holes overflow kit for it. Minimum equipment (without a sump) would entail a HOB filter, powerhead, heater, and light (not counting a hydrometer, test kits, thermometer, etc). Knowing your budget would also help.
  9. Welcome to! Looks like you've done some research already. There are things, like the RO/DI unit, that you could save money on without sacrificing any quality. I might also pick another salt mix (maybe the non-coral pro version of Red Sea, if buying from BRS). However, your list looks pretty decent. Even the RO/DI unit and salt mix are fine (some might even say ideal). Do you "need" everything? Not really. Like you could get by without a protein skimmer. And you could spend less on things like lighting (although I hear that fixture is nice). Sounds like an exciting project. Good luck!
  10. Live rock can support some denitrifying bacteria which performs natural nitrate reduction. However, testing error might be another explanation (although there is a pretty big difference between 5 ppm and 40 ppm nitrate on an API test kit). It's possibly a bit of both. If nitrate never actually reached more than 5 ppm, I suspect you should continue to dose ammonia up to 2 ppm, let it fall below 1 ppm, and repeat (as outlined in the link that Clown79 provided). I'm always a little leery of using ammonia, designed for use as a household cleaner, in a reef tank. You don't want it to contain any contaminants, scents, stabilizers, surfactants, soap, or other undisclosed ingredients. However, I believe other reefers have also used ACE ammonia for this purpose, so it's likely OK.
  11. You can install a solar light tube. I put some of those in a warehouse and they are plenty bright. It would make an excellent light source for a tank (despite the spectrum).
  12. Drilling a tank is actually pretty easy. You just have to keep the bit wet and go slow (letting the drill apply the pressure). There are many videos which can help. I'd recommend that you cycle any new rock (dry or live) separately. Once it's fully cured, you can transfer everything from your old tank to the new tank (along with the newly cured rock).
  13. If you've built up a robust enough biological filter, there is no reason to add more bacteria. However, to answer your question, the addition of another nitrifying bacteria culture shouldn't cause a problem (assuming you follow the instructions on the bottle).
  14. I would probably just siphon out some off the top during water changes. It will take several water changes, but it should be a safe transition.
  15. I'm not sure how much research you have done on anglers (sounds like you've done a fair amount). I'll admit that I don't know a lot about them. However, I believe there is a concern about overfeeding. If I remember correctly, they are typically fed like two times a week. Crushed coral will trap more detritus than sand. It requires even more maintenance to prevent eventual problems. Everything looks quite impressive. I'm just pointing out a few things which potentially could become problematic. I want you to succeed.