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seabass

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About seabass

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  1. I don't know why I didn't think to look it up: http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/stainlessaquariums.html I appears that silicone doesn't adhere to slate. I also don't remember them being sealed with tar. So I guess the hope is that the tar hasn't dried up too bad. My quick search didn't reveal how best to seal the slate. I'm guessing that the slate doesn't really seep, and that the tank is just leaking a bit.
  2. I'm worried about the stainless steel rusting. I assume it was used as a freshwater tank. That brings up another concern. There is a decent chance that there is calcium in the slate. If this tank ever contained copper meds, it could leach copper (making it a poor reef tank). That's kind of scary. I guess you'll want to seal it with an epoxy resin. The silicone is that old too. If the inside is free of silicone, I'd seal the seams with black aquarium silicone. I get the cool retro look and feel, but have a few concerns. I guess I'd be inclined to keep it as a freshwater tank (primary due to the stainless steel). Maybe get some inspiration from here:
  3. Newbie Questions

    Two possibilities; either testing error, or the water change caused a disruption which released more nutrients into the water. Otherwise you would see a decrease.
  4. Red sea reefer 170 mods custom plumbing

    I'm not sure I'd agree with that. While the silicone might help prevent leaks, that's not how threaded connections are designed to work. If they are using an O-ring, then the threads are likely parallel (and the O-ring provides the seal). Since there are nuts on the outside, it sounds like slip fittings on the inside, for the external pipes. I'm guessing that's what you'll have to do. Good plan.
  5. Red sea reefer 170 mods custom plumbing

    No, I'm talking about leaving the bulkhead, and just replacing the pipe that connects to it (just to give you new threads). If you want, you can try to use ALL of the original plumbing and just use thread sealant on the mail threads.
  6. Red sea reefer 170 mods custom plumbing

    Not necessarily. Let's say that the leak is not coming between the bulkhead and the tank, and that the leak is coming from the threaded connection (from the female bulkhead and the male plumbing). I'd try replacing the male plumbing and use thread sealant.
  7. Red sea reefer 170 mods custom plumbing

    I'm not sure if you were considering using glue/cement on a threaded joint, but don't. The glue will prevent you from tightening it. Only glue slip connections.
  8. It does look a little like PhosGuard. But look at the substrate in the foreground. It kind of looks like that too. In any case. It's not a problem. So that's good.
  9. Newbie Questions

    Then science and math tells us, that a 50% water change, would reduce nitrate in half.
  10. I agree that coarse substrate can stick to the bottom of the anemone (and not just the foot). However, RFA babies can look like that when first born. Although, I wouldn't think that babies would stick to their parents (I have never witnessed that). I'd try to touch them to see what they are.
  11. Red sea reefer 170 mods custom plumbing

    Then there are Uniseal bulkheads (which possibly might work, but I wouldn't use them for this application, as they might get cut on the glass, or even crack your tank):
  12. General Questions

    I probably wouldn't start using NOPOX at this point. As far as adding coral, I'd wait until I got nitrate down below 10 ppm. Check your source water for nitrate as I mentioned in your other thread.
  13. I have 99 problems and a Ricordea's one

    I usually just try to find a depression in a rock, and put it in there. Basically, so that it doesn't blow around. Eventually it should attach. It might decide to move again, but kids will be kids.
  14. Newbie Questions

    What do you get when you test your source water for nitrate (or a newly mixed batch of saltwater)? When I first started, I used RO water from a grocery store's vending machine. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get nitrate below 40 ppm. It turned out that the RO water contained 40 ppm nitrate. So I switched to distilled water (then finally to my own RO/DI unit). 30 ppm nitrate is OK for most fish. However, you typically want it below 10 ppm (lower for SPS corals). You shouldn't need to dose anything at this point. Once you have corals and/or coralline, then you can dose to replenish what is consumed. Oh, and I'm all for weekly partial water changes. It serves to export organics and wastes, as well as to replenish consumed elements that you don't dose (or even test for).
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