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Pod Your Reef

Innovative Marine Fusion 10 Club


obeythefro

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picked up the red sea version, i just plan on having it hold me over till i grab a digital one over the holidays with bonus money.

 

for now im just calibrating with distilled water, it'll do the job for now. (all of my distilled water gets tested with a tds meter)

 

I bought a digital salinity checker.... sort of a big waste of money imo. I have never found my water to be anything but 1.026; as long as you top off and use correct water for changes it should stay there.

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Thanks for the diagram rsucre. I'm right there with neyankee....my rear chambers are level with the main display as well. I just attempted to remove water from the rear chambers with my turkey baster. As I removed water from the back the display level went down as well. I'm sure I am missing something easy but...how can the display water level be higher?!? Thanks for the info!!

 

 

 

Hi Neyankee. What is that powered device that you have in the second picture, to the right, with the red knob?

 

Regarding water level. The water level in the sump should be below the display level. You have to take water out. Here's a diagram. I keep the water level in the return chamber (last chamber) about 1 or 2 cm below the baffle. The level at the middle chamber should be constant at the baffle level.

 

Fusion_10_Diagrama.jpeg

 

 

Hey rsucre, that is my fluval heater (E100). I moved the heater to the display side and upgraded flow with a Cobalt MJ900. Now my levels are perfect in the sump and the flow is great as well. Like several members were discussing each tank will be different depending on total water volume and what you are running in your sump.

I'm using the Red Sea refractometer, works great.

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Firefish jumped again yesterday, luckily I was there to see it. Then tried again today... It really does not want to be in the tank!

For the time being, I used black duct tape to close the gaps. See pic. Until I can buy a custom lid from Smiz.

 

We're ready for ya ;)

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Hey rsucre, that is my fluval heater (E100). I moved the heater to the display side and upgraded flow with a Cobalt MJ900. Now my levels are perfect in the sump and the flow is great as well. Like several members were discussing each tank will be different depending on total water volume and what you are running in your sump.

I'm using the Red Sea refractometer, works great.

I forgot to mention that I also replaced the stock pump with an Aqueon QuietFlow AQ400. That pump has been perfect. Moves more water, produces less heat and is totally silent. And was very economic. Guys having the issue with the level should try with the MJ900 or the AQ400. The Aqueon I think was less than $20. If the issue is the 3mm gap, I think that a little bit of silicon (make sure it is 100% pure silicon) should fix that.

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I forgot to mention that I also replaced the stock pump with an Aqueon QuietFlow AQ400. That pump has been perfect. Moves more water, produces less heat and is totally silent. And was very economic. Guys having the issue with the level should try with the MJ900 or the AQ400. The Aqueon I think was less than $20. If the issue is the 3mm gap, I think that a little bit of silicon (make sure it is 100% pure silicon) should fix that.

Good to know!! I'm about to order a Koralia Nano to increase flow. I've heard they are pretty decent for the $$. MP-10 is down the road a ways. I'll probably upgrade lighting before that purchase. I'll let you know what IM has to say...hopefully Silicon is the easy fix!! Added my first couple of frags yesterday...pics to come!!

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I have the Koralia nano but replaced it with a Jebao WR-4. Cheap, potent and comes with wave controller. Had to replace the 24v power supply that comes with it with a 12v. Otherwise it was too powerful. So far, so good. Much better than the Koralia.

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I have the Koralia nano but replaced it with a Jebao WR-4. Cheap, potent and comes with wave controller. Had to replace the 24v power supply that comes with it with a 12v. Otherwise it was too powerful. So far, so good. Much better than the Koralia.

Unfortunately I already ordered It. But it will make a great mixing pump down the road!!

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I got a response from IM today reguarding the gap where the return nozzle mounts to the back wall. He suggested a couple dabs of crazy glue to hold it on there. I'm hoping this will prevent water from escaping the main display tank and entering the rear chambers. He said he did that with his own tank that had the same issue. He also said he keeps his levels pretty high in the rear chambers to reduce evaporation and suggested doing the same unless I'm running a skimmer that needs the lower water level. I guess I'll try it and hope for the best!!

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Hey tblake12,

 

I see you have a black longspine urchin in there. How long have you had him? Reason I ask is I just added one last week and he's doing great but I hear they are not good for small tanks since they grow so quickly.

 

Does anyone here know anything about these urchins and if their size would be limited by the tank size?

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I got a response from IM today reguarding the gap where the return nozzle mounts to the back wall. He suggested a couple dabs of crazy glue to hold it on there. I'm hoping this will prevent water from escaping the main display tank and entering the rear chambers. He said he did that with his own tank that had the same issue. He also said he keeps his levels pretty high in the rear chambers to reduce evaporation and suggested doing the same unless I'm running a skimmer that needs the lower water level. I guess I'll try it and hope for the best!!

 

I don't see how this will reduce evaporation. Your tank will evaporate water at the same rate, but since you have more water in the rear chambers it will take longer for it to evaporate enough to make a difference in the return chamber. Also, with more water in the back there will be less water movement, making it easier for things to settle in the rear chambers. Not a good idea, I don't know why he would suggest that.

Keep your water level as Livewreck shows in this diagram.

 

 

 

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Will do. When I said I'll give it a try I was referring to the Crazy Glue. With the size gap around the nozzle I still don't think that will keep water out. I'm thinking aquarium sealant on the back chamber side where the return nozzle enters the displaY as well as a couple dabs of glue under the flange on the display side. Thoughts??

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Hey tblake12,

 

I see you have a black longspine urchin in there. How long have you had him? Reason I ask is I just added one last week and he's doing great but I hear they are not good for small tanks since they grow so quickly.

 

Does anyone here know anything about these urchins and if their size would be limited by the tank size?

Just a heads up...Be careful if you use a Mag Float!! I just drilled my urchin not even realizing he was right there...broke off a couple spines!! Poor little dude went running for the hills knocking over every hermit along the way.

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Cyano? Just popped up in a area with pretty high flow.

 

Screenshot_2015-11-12-21-22-39.png

 

 

detritus, it's caused by small amounts of silicates and phosphates that begin to leach from the live rock and sand. this is common is all new tanks, you might have a few blooms in the first 6 months of the tank running. don't do anything differently, keep up with normal water changes and remove as much of it as you can physically during those water changes

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I tried to find a similar pic through google...no success. I'm assuming this is a type of algae?!? Very weird being singular and spaced out. It's only growing on the back wall. Any input and/or advice??

 

20151113_234449.jpg

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