Innovative Marine Fusion 10 Club

[neyankee]

Ok, good to know thanks!

[reefernanoman]

I must admit that my poor tank was sitting on a coffe table(it was sturdy thought) since I set it up last year! All my cables and stuff was just hidden underneath the guest bed. So I decided to check out the stands online and the cheapest one was like $79(JBJ NC 12G stand). I know that the construction on that is like "meh", so I decided to go to the Salvation Army and found a stand that was very sturdy, didn't look bad, and even had a front glass door all for a whopping $16! I don't know why I never thought about going there in the first place. So if someone is looking for a stand for any size tank, check your local Salvation Army or similar place first before you go buy an overpriced pressed board stand. Just make sure to check it for hitchhicker bugs like I did.

[Elizabeth94]

New to the forum and a marine newbie. Awesome forum with excellent information so thanks to all for sharing. Raised goldfish for 20 years and thought it was time to give a reef tank a shot. (see photo)

 

Question about sump water level... Most of the photo's I've seen show the sump water level is below the display water level but on my setup the water level is the same. Flow seems to be fine. (see photo)

 

Is this normal?

 

 

 

 

I personally believe your water level is too high. If you look at the manual for this tank the water line is just above the third chamber baffle. This is because your evaporation will be evident in the return chamber and that is where your ATO switch should be. But I suppose if your salinity is in check you may be fine. A couple people informed me that I should have the water level a tad below the final baffle.

 

 

[davek17]

I run my water level about the same between the display and chambers, slightly lower in the chambers. However, that is how my ato is positioned in the third chamber to maintain my levels. If you maintain your water levels near to what you started out at you shouldnt have a problem maintaining salinity.

[schgr.cube]

I thought IM said about 1" below the third baffle was suggested?

[davek17]

I just lowered my water level in the chambers at the level shown in the manual. This actually helps force water through my inTank media basket. You may want to ultimately lower the water in your chambers too. Water will evaporate and cause the third chamber to become lower than the second, but it depends on where you position your ato sensor.

[kylhcky]

i have mine about 6 inches from the bottom in the 3rd chamber, it's been like this for a year with no issues.

[Livewreck]

Neyankee,

 

As water starts to evaporate though your sump level will drop below your display level.

 

????

 

As the water level drops in the display compartment, for any reason... not just evaporation... the level in the sump will also drop.

 

The differential heights in water levels between the display and sump will depend primarily on three things: 1) the flow rate of return pump and how it is set. (I.e., a larger pump, or the stock pump set to its highest flow setting, will drop the level in the sump.); 2) how you set up the automatic top off system (ATO) sensor, and 3) the height of the water level in the display compartment. I keep my water level about 1.25 inches below the top of the tank and set my ATO sensor so that the water level in compartment #3 is approximately as shown in the attached drawing.

 

If you set up an automatic top off system, place the sensor in the compartment furthest from the overflow and set it low enough to drop the water level between the ATO sensor and the middle compartment.

 

 

 

 

Not sure if I have explained this clearly. If you need more info, you can PM me.

 

Good luck with your new tank... and have fun!

[davek17]

Neyankee,

 

 

 

????

 

As the water level drops in the display compartment, for any reason... not just evaporation... the level in the sump will also drop.

 

The differential heights in water levels between the display and sump will depend primarily on three things: 1) the flow rate of return pump and how it is set. (I.e., a larger pump, or the stock pump set to its highest flow setting, will drop the level in the sump.); 2) how you set up the automatic top off system (ATO) sensor, and 3) the height of the water level in the display compartment. I keep my water level about 1.25 inches below the top of the tank and set my ATO sensor so that the water level in compartment #3 is approximately as shown in the attached drawing.

 

If you set up an automatic top off system, place the sensor in the compartment furthest from the overflow and set it low enough to drop the water level between the ATO sensor and the middle compartment.

 

 

 

 

Not sure if I have explained this clearly. If you need more info, you can PM me.

 

Good luck with your new tank... and have fun!

I totally agree with you. Best explanation yet and great diagram.

[Sunstar]

Hello, I am sunstar - Starscream in a few circles. But mostly Sunstar in the reefing aquatic worlds.

 

Anyhoo - I had a forced upgrade to a fusion 10. My system was a pico that I had built to fit the tank I had, and that tank appears to be somewhat unusual in size and all. By forced, I mean I sprang a leak and was in an immediate need to upgrade. I bought a fusion 10 at the local reef shop as that was basically the smallest they had. Boy is it quiet.

 

My lighting system is a DIY, you can find the link to it in my signature somewhere. I have intent to upgrade this light at some point to include, red, uv, cyan and lime. Each one will be dimmable - so if I think red looks like crud, then, off it goes.

 

I am not too keen on the stock media basket, so I might be in the market for something better - or a refugium. I also have a skimmer - somewhere - I could use for this tank.

 

I would love to know more about proper water levels, I think mine might be a bit high and then where the proper heigh/location for the ATO.

 

I still need to make adjustments to my lamp - the fan set-up did not fit the box I fit it in, but as I am waiting for a parcel, I can't exactly leave to go to a computer shop to pick up a smaller one.

[neyankee]

Neyankee,

 

 

????

 

As the water level drops in the display compartment, for any reason... not just evaporation... the level in the sump will also drop.

 

The differential heights in water levels between the display and sump will depend primarily on three things: 1) the flow rate of return pump and how it is set. (I.e., a larger pump, or the stock pump set to its highest flow setting, will drop the level in the sump.); 2) how you set up the automatic top off system (ATO) sensor, and 3) the height of the water level in the display compartment. I keep my water level about 1.25 inches below the top of the tank and set my ATO sensor so that the water level in compartment #3 is approximately as shown in the attached drawing.

 

If you set up an automatic top off system, place the sensor in the compartment furthest from the overflow and set it low enough to drop the water level between the ATO sensor and the middle compartment.

 

 

 

 

Not sure if I have explained this clearly. If you need more info, you can PM me.

 

Good luck with your new tank... and have fun!

 

Livewreck,

 

Thank you for that excellent explanation and diagram! Basically my display water level was too high and flow rate was too low. Adjusting these two things did the trick. Thanks again.

[Sunstar]

I like that ATO switch, where might i find one like that?

[Livewreck]

I like that ATO switch, where might i find one like that?

 

Its a Tunze Osmolator Nano. I have it running for about 10 or 11 months and it keeps the salinity very steady. I have not been able to measure any difference in salinity since I began using that ATO.

[Sunstar]

I have been using a DIY - I have no issue with mine, I am just liking what appears to be a magnetic connection.

[jnhphoto]

anybody using a MP10 Powerhead for wave action. My concern is it may be to powerful for the fusion 10? I have the spin stream but it still seems weak and not random enough. THANKS!

[outerorbiter]

anybody using a MP10 Powerhead for wave action. My concern is it may be to powerful for the fusion 10? I have the spin stream but it still seems weak and not random enough. THANKS!

Many people use the mp10 in the fusion 10. I have use one from the initial set up. Turned up about three or four on flow. Works great!

[rsucre]

Hi all. I'm thinking about upgrading my lights. I currently have Fluval Sea Nano LED complemented with 4 CREE XP-E LEDs on a separate channel (DIY from RapidLED).

 

I'm wondering how much of a difference will I get from either of these two options, and also want to get feedback on one vs. the other:

1. Kessil A150 + Gooseneck
2. Nanobox Mini Tide

The Kessil is widely acclaimed and reviewed, but there is no way to have separate channels (at least not out of the box as far as I know). The Nano box mini tide comes with a bluefish mini controller.

 

I'm keeping frogspawn, leather, xenia, zoas and ricordeas. Might add a hammer. Mainly soft coral and LPS.

 

Your feedback is appreciated.

[outerorbiter]

Never had a kessil but never heard anything bad with exception of adjustability on colors. I do have a nanobox mini tide with 4 channels and the bluefish controller. It is awesome and will grow anything you want just turn up or down the intensity and change the color to your preference.

[billdeluz]

Hi all. I'm thinking about upgrading my lights. I currently have Fluval Sea Nano LED complemented with 4 CREE XP-E LEDs on a separate channel (DIY from RapidLED).

 

I'm wondering how much of a difference will I get from either of these two options, and also want to get feedback on one vs. the other:

 

• Kessil A150 + Gooseneck
• Nanobox Mini Tide

The Kessil is widely acclaimed and reviewed, but there is no way to have separate channels (at least not out of the box as far as I know). The Nano box mini tide comes with a bluefish mini controller.

 

I'm keeping frogspawn, leather, xenia, zoas and ricordeas. Might add a hammer. Mainly soft coral and LPS.

 

Your feedback is appreciated.

I don't think you can go wrong with either I have the 160we and I love it it will grow anything in these small tanks but my buddy has the nanobox and I see great results but I like the coloring on my Kessil and he loves his nanobox I hate to confuse you but try and look at them both if possible and see what you like that's what matters but they both will grow what your interested in

Question to everyone in the club what powerhead are you using?????? I know it will vary I'm just curious thanks all

(If using one)

[rsucre]

I don't think you can go wrong with either I have the 160we and I love it it will grow anything in these small tanks but my buddy has the nanobox and I see great results but I like the coloring on my Kessil and he loves his nanobox I hate to confuse you but try and look at them both if possible and see what you like that's what matters but they both will grow what your interested in

Question to everyone in the club what powerhead are you using?????? I know it will vary I'm just curious thanks all

(If using one)

Thanks Billdeluz, but I'm overseas and those products are not available locally. That's why I need to ask in forums like this and do a lot of research before I buy.

 

I already spent some money in my existing light (Fluval Sea Nano LED) then added 4 CREE XP-E LEDs from RapidLed (DIY) and really don't know how much difference will make either the Kessil or the Nanobox.

 

I'm leaning towards Nanobox Mini Tide because if there is no significant difference in light vs. what I have today, at least I get a controller that I don't have today, since it comes with the Bluefish controller. I understand that you don't get a controller with the Kessils (at least not in the standard product).

[smiz]

That is a good way to think about it rsucre. Both lights will both grow coral fine, whether one or the other might need 5% more intensity to get the look you're going for is not a real reason to pick one over the other. So in the case of the two lights I feel the kessile provides a bit more spotlight look with a lot of shimmer. Where the nanobox gives an even amount of light output. So depends on what you like. Also bluefish is awesome, I have it and love and use it all the time. For me nano-box is the winner but weigh your options.

[rsucre]

That is a good way to think about it rsucre. Both lights will both grow coral fine, whether one or the other might need 5% more intensity to get the look you're going for is not a real reason to pick one over the other. So in the case of the two lights I feel the kessile provides a bit more spotlight look with a lot of shimmer. Where the nanobox gives an even amount of light output. So depends on what you like. Also bluefish is awesome, I have it and love and use it all the time. For me nano-box is the winner but weigh your options.

Thanks for your input Smiz. But how to know if either will be a significant improvement over the Fluval Sea Nano with the 4 CREE XPEs that I currently have? My coral seem happy, but for some hard to explain reason I'm not conformed

[Sunstar]

I am back to the drawing board with the magnetic connection for my ATO, gonna make a hanger when I get some styrene tomorrow. But I learned about the water elvels here.

[rsucre]

I plunged and ordered the Nano Box Mini Tide with moonlight option. Can't wait!

 

Impressive customer service by Dave.

[Sunstar]

I just ordered a custom media box made by IM for my 10. I am still having issues regarding my ATO. The place I went to did not sell styrene card.