Innovative Marine Fusion 10 Club

[tblake12]

Hi guys!! I've been stalking this site for a while now wanting to start a tank. I was pretty apprehensive to start a build until I knew I was in a house in which I would be "planted" for a while. Here I am...new house and a baby due in 10 days!! Why not tackle a reef at the same time!! After a few weeks of researching tanks, for probably the 4th time, I decided on the IM Fusion Nano 10g. LFS sells them for 20 bucks less than online...bonus!! Here it is...

 

Tank: IM Fusion Nano 10

Sand: CaribSea West Caribbean Reef 10 lbs

Rock: 6+ lbs Live rock from LFS that had been in their tank for 2.5 weeks(Hopefully cutting down cycling time)

More Rock: 3 lbs Real Reef Rock and some rubble from a closer LFS(No live rock there). Using this as a base rock.

Return Pump: Stock

Media Basket: Stock

Lighting: Stock

Heater: Eheim Jager TruTemp 50W

Temps: Holding at 79F

 

Sand and SW went in on 10/22

Rock and more SW went in on 10/23

 

So far Ammonia has been 0-low as well as Nitrites and Nitrates. I'm assuming the rock cured pretty well in their tank(good lighting and good flow). I did start getting some brown algae so I know there is some Ammonia but it's not strong enough to show up on the test(definitively at least). As soon as I figure out how to upload files that are too big...pics will be here!!

 

 

 

[HarryPotter]

Upload the photos to photobucket! The. You click share, click the IMG link, and paste it here. It'll appear high quality and big!

 

Oh and Welcome to NR!

[snowprince]

Just throwing this out there for those looking for other light options.

 

http://www.marinedepot.com/Wave_Point_Blade_HO_LED_Aquarium_Light_Super_Blue_10k_LED_Light_Fixtures_for_Aquariums-WavePoint_Technology-ZP01407-FILTFILD-vi.html

 

Maybe some have already tried and can chime in:)

[tblake12]

 

 

[rsucre]

Hi guys!! I've been stalking this site for a while now wanting to start a tank. I was pretty apprehensive to start a build until I knew I was in a house in which I would be "planted" for a while. Here I am...new house and a baby due in 10 days!! Why not tackle a reef at the same time!! After a few weeks of researching tanks, for probably the 4th time, I decided on the IM Fusion Nano 10g. LFS sells them for 20 bucks less than online...bonus!! Here it is...

 

Tank: IM Fusion Nano 10

Sand: CaribSea West Caribbean Reef 10 lbs

Rock: 6+ lbs Live rock from LFS that had been in their tank for 2.5 weeks(Hopefully cutting down cycling time)

More Rock: 3 lbs Real Reef Rock and some rubble from a closer LFS(No live rock there). Using this as a base rock.

Return Pump: Stock

Media Basket: Stock

Lighting: Stock

Heater: Eheim Jager TruTemp 50W

Temps: Holding at 79F

 

Sand and SW went in on 10/22

Rock and more SW went in on 10/23

 

So far Ammonia has been 0-low as well as Nitrites and Nitrates. I'm assuming the rock cured pretty well in their tank(good lighting and good flow). I did start getting some brown algae so I know there is some Ammonia but it's not strong enough to show up on the test(definitively at least). As soon as I figure out how to upload files that are too big...pics will be here!!

 

 

 

Congratulations for the new baby and for the IM10 tank! It is so exciting to start a new tank...

[tblake12]

Here is the progress. Thanks for the welcoming!! Super excited for this tank!! As you can see, it's a big improvement over the Beta tank that was on the bar.

[kylhcky]

Just throwing this out there for those looking for other light options.

 

http://www.marinedepot.com/Wave_Point_Blade_HO_LED_Aquarium_Light_Super_Blue_10k_LED_Light_Fixtures_for_Aquariums-WavePoint_Technology-ZP01407-FILTFILD-vi.html

 

Maybe some have already tried and can chime in:)

 

i'd probably use the stock light over that one if i had to choose between them. you'd be better off spending another $20-$30 on a coral compulsion par bulb.

[rsucre]

New to the forum and a marine newbie. Awesome forum with excellent information so thanks to all for sharing. Raised goldfish for 20 years and thought it was time to give a reef tank a shot. (see photo)

 

Question about sump water level... Most of the photo's I've seen show the sump water level is below the display water level but on my setup the water level is the same. Flow seems to be fine. (see photo)

 

Is this normal?

 

 

Hi Neyankee. What is that powered device that you have in the second picture, to the right, with the red knob?

 

Regarding water level. The water level in the sump should be below the display level. You have to take water out. Here's a diagram. I keep the water level in the return chamber (last chamber) about 1 or 2 cm below the baffle. The level at the middle chamber should be constant at the baffle level.

 

[tblake12]

Sorry about the deleted photos...still working on my Photobucket skills!! Here are some more...

 

[Elizabeth94]

I like your rock scape a lot, it has a lot of potential for coral placement.

[tblake12]

Thanks for the diagram rsucre. I'm right there with neyankee....my rear chambers are level with the main display as well. I just attempted to remove water from the rear chambers with my turkey baster. As I removed water from the back the display level went down as well. I'm sure I am missing something easy but...how can the display water level be higher?!? Thanks for the info!!

[rsucre]

Firefish jumped again yesterday, luckily I was there to see it. Then tried again today... It really does not want to be in the tank!

For the time being, I used black duct tape to close the gaps. See pic. Until I can buy a custom lid from Smiz.

 

Thanks for the diagram rsucre. I'm right there with neyankee....my rear chambers are level with the main display as well. I just attempted to remove water from the rear chambers with my turkey baster. As I removed water from the back the display level went down as well. I'm sure I am missing something easy but...how can the display water level be higher?!? Thanks for the info!!

My guess is that you have to keep taking water out until the display will stop going down and the mid chamber will continue going down. The normal levels are for sure higher in the display and lower in the mid chamber of the sump and even lower in the return chamber. If that does not work, maybe you have a defective return pump? Also, notice that the water level at the display is not that high, mine is about 1 1/4" below the top of the glass.

[tblake12]

This could be my problem. I'm assuming this should be a tighter fit?!?! There is A LOT of wiggle room. Thoughts??

 

[rsucre]

This could be my problem. I'm assuming this should be a tighter fit?!?! There is A LOT of wiggle room. Thoughts??

 

Are you referring to the return pipe? Mine has a little bit of wiggle too. But I see that you don't have the little nozzle attachment at the end. Did you remove it? Can you try with it and see if the levels change?

 

But I think that you have to take out much more water than a few grabs with the turkey blaster. The level at my return chamber is at least 2" below my display. My display is approx. at the same level as yours. Obviously, all that I'm saying is with the pump running. If the pump is not running levels are all the same at display and sump.

[kylhcky]

This could be my problem. I'm assuming this should be a tighter fit?!?! There is A LOT of wiggle room. Thoughts??

 

 

that's about normal, mine's been the same water height as yours since day 1 on my end.

[tblake12]

Yes...the return pipe. I removed almost a quart of water from the rear chambers and the water level in the main display dropped about halfway down the return pipe hole which caused the water coming from the return to start splattering the surface water in the display. So basically I'm not understanding how the 3rd chamber can have a low water level when the return has about 3mm of space for water to spill back into the 3rd chamber from the display. And yes, I did remove the black plastic piece to increase the flow.

[rsucre]

I wanted to share with you a system that I have in place to simplify water changes. It is very simple. I used vinyl tubing (the one used for RO filter units, preferably black), a couple of John Guest L fittings and a valve. I even painted the fittings and valve with black Krylon Fusion spray paint.

 

The vinyl tubing goes from the main display, all the way to a drain.

 

Once it is all installed, I suck from the drain end of the tubing and once the water is flowing (syphon), I go and close the valve. That way, I keep a permanent syphon, but with the valve closed, no water flowing. I only had to suck once. The syphon stays for months.

 

Then I have to stop the pump, let the water get to its "idle" level. Do a "regular water change" for the last time in order to measure the amount of water I always want to change. I took out 1 gallon. Then made a mark with a sharpie at the 1 gallon level.

 

Next time I want to do a water change, I just have to stop the pump, wait a little bit for the water to level, open the valve and close it when the water level reaches the 1 gallon mark.

 

I always keep a 1 gallon bottle with new salt water.

 

That's it. Water changes take 2 minutes for me.

 

Hope you like the idea.

 

 

 

 

[Elizabeth94]

Really simple but effective way to do a water change, I like it rsucre. Do you just mix the sand around before you change the water?

[rsucre]

Really simple but effective way to do a water change, I like it rsucre. Do you just mix the sand around before you change the water?

Not necessarily, but it is a good idea. Generally, my sand stays very clean. Water flow and CUC seem to do a good job. I guess that once in a while I may have to do a more profound "conventional" water change to clean things up.

[kylhcky]

so after close to 3 years of keeping nano reefs, i finally bought a refractometer. turns out my coralife hydrometer was nearly spot on though.

[rsucre]

so after close to 3 years of keeping nano reefs, i finally bought a refractometer. turns out my coralife hydrometer was nearly spot on though.

Good decision. I would never trust a hydrometer. What refractometer do you have? I calibrate it with Refractometer Calibration Solution from Aqua Craft Products. A little bottle lasts forever and you can use it as a reference at 35 ppt. Worth the price.

 

My refractometer is the one from DD H2Ocean. I like it.

[kylhcky]

Good decision. I would never trust a hydrometer. What refractometer do you have? I calibrate it with Refractometer Calibration Solution from Aqua Craft Products. A little bottle lasts forever and you can use it as a reference at 35 ppt. Worth the price.

 

My refractometer is the one from DD H2Ocean. I like it.

 

picked up the red sea version, i just plan on having it hold me over till i grab a digital one over the holidays with bonus money.

 

for now im just calibrating with distilled water, it'll do the job for now. (all of my distilled water gets tested with a tds meter)

[rsucre]

Yes...the return pipe. I removed almost a quart of water from the rear chambers and the water level in the main display dropped about halfway down the return pipe hole which caused the water coming from the return to start splattering the surface water in the display. So basically I'm not understanding how the 3rd chamber can have a low water level when the return has about 3mm of space for water to spill back into the 3rd chamber from the display. And yes, I did remove the black plastic piece to increase the flow.

Maybe a 3mm gap is too much. I would call IM and see what they say. I can assure you that the level of the mid chamber should be lower than the display and the return chamber a bit lower than that. The mid chamber should remain constant even with evaporation. That's why it is the best place to put a skimmer. The return chamber gets lower with evaporation. There is where you put your ATO sensor.

[snowprince]

Maybe a 3mm gap is too much. I would call IM and see what they say. I can assure you that the level of the mid chamber should be lower than the display and the return chamber a bit lower than that. The mid chamber should remain constant even with evaporation. That's why it is the best place to put a skimmer. The return chamber gets lower with evaporation. There is where you put your ATO sensor.

I used to fill all three chambers to the same level only to discover the water surface is always oily. Now that I lowered the second and third chambers like you guys did, problem solved.

 

For the second chamber, I am growing red mangrove attached to a filter sponge secured with a rubber band. Third chamber is where the water is the lowest.

[tblake12]

Thanks guys. I'll send IM an email and see if they have an answer. I'm hoping they didn't drill that hole too big...or at least have a solution other than tearing the tank down.