Innovative Marine Fusion 10 Club

[Nola Bear]

Who do we contact about starting a build thread?

[gavinsepanik]

Also teenyreef your tank is one of the reasons that I bought this tank, it is beautiful!

[teenyreef]

Just start a new thread in "Members Aquariums". Let us know here when you do and we'll follow it. Also, if you edit your signature with a link to it, then others will be able to find it easily when you make posts in their threads.

[Nola Bear]

Just start a new thread in "Members Aquariums". Let us know here when you do and we'll follow it. Also, if you edit your signature with a link to it, then others will be able to find it easily when you make posts in their threads.

I started my build thread. I hope that I can give you guys something worth looking at

Hey teeny, and others, what is your method for dipping frags? Do you only use peroxide, or do you use LFS stuff? What's the ratio of peroxide to rodi, and are there certain frags that don't tolerate a peroxide dip?

[DavetheReef]

I'm on Day 5 of my new Fusion 10. Set up with live rock and sand from an established aquarium. Have sorted out most of the bugs, but the one I haven't figured out yet is the filter area.

 

I have installed the in-tank media holder, which is nice but still allows a lot of water to flow round the sides and in front, as the unit is overflowing (I have put in floss plus 2 of the 3 sponges that came with the original holder).

 

So, how do I get more of the tank water flowing through the unit - remove the sponges and lightly pack the media holder?

 

Also, this morning when I looked I noticed that a lot of bubbles (like protein skim) had built up in the narrow space behind the media holder - almost as if the gaps around the media holder were creating there own mini protein skimmer (which I don't want to happen here otherwise it will get messy over time).

 

Thanks

 

EDIT: I filled up the top with more floss which seems to have encouraged more water into the media holder, or at least reduced the force of water flowing out again that was causing a skimming effect - still some water overflowing the sides but no more bubbles.

[teenyreef]

I started my build thread. I hope that I can give you guys something worth looking at

Hey teeny, and others, what is your method for dipping frags? Do you only use peroxide, or do you use LFS stuff? What's the ratio of peroxide to rodi, and are there certain frags that don't tolerate a peroxide dip?

Personally I use CoralRx, which is basically iodine. It's safe and I've dipped pretty much everything in it. Recently I got some Bayer to dip acros, but I haven't actually used it yet.

 

Peroxide is much more dangerous. I use it all the time to deal with algae or fungus type stuff, but I don't use it as a regular dip. I've learned the hard way that montis and favia/favites can't tolerate it at all unless it's really watered down. For zoas or other corals, I dip it or apply a few drops while they are out of the water during a water change - 100% concentration. Leave it on for a little less than a minute. However, the first time you try it with any particular coral, I'd recommend diluting it by 50% with salt water and just try it for a minute to make sure nothing bad happens.

I'm on Day 5 of my new Fusion 10. Set up with live rock and sand from an established aquarium. Have sorted out most of the bugs, but the one I haven't figured out yet is the filter area.

 

I have installed the in-tank media holder, which is nice but still allows a lot of water to flow round the sides and in front, as the unit is overflowing (I have put in floss plus 2 of the 3 sponges that came with the original holder).

 

So, how do I get more of the tank water flowing through the unit - remove the sponges and lightly pack the media holder?

 

Also, this morning when I looked I noticed that a lot of bubbles (like protein skim) had built up in the narrow space behind the media holder - almost as if the gaps around the media holder were creating there own mini protein skimmer (which I don't want to happen here otherwise it will get messy over time).

 

Thanks

 

EDIT: I filled up the top with more floss which seems to have encouraged more water into the media holder, or at least reduced the force of water flowing out again that was causing a skimming effect - still some water overflowing the sides but no more bubbles.

Congrats on the new setup!

 

You can get rid of the sponges entirely. Since your floss is doing mechanical filtration, the sponges aren't really doing anything other than making nitrates. The other chambers in the caddy are commonly used for carbon and/or GFO or Chemipure.

[teenyreef]

I started my build thread. I hope that I can give you guys something worth looking at

Just checked it out - it looks great!

Also teenyreef your tank is one of the reasons that I bought this tank, it is beautiful!

Aw, thanks!

[NekoTwilight]

Hey Neko, I don't have any comment on the skimmer other than I read this kind of comment before. Let me know what you end up doing because I am still on the fence about getting one.

 

Just thought I'd give you an update. The skimmer is working great. I've got it as others have suggested (pretty close to barely open) and the box pushed in nearly all the way. Good skim and nearly silent (not any louder than the pumps/powerheads). I'd recommend it despite the lengthy setup due to how well it fits in the nuvo.

[Nola Bear]

Good to know. How many fish do you have?

[reefernanoman]

I'm on Day 5 of my new Fusion 10. Set up with live rock and sand from an established aquarium. Have sorted out most of the bugs, but the one I haven't figured out yet is the filter area.

 

I have installed the in-tank media holder, which is nice but still allows a lot of water to flow round the sides and in front, as the unit is overflowing (I have put in floss plus 2 of the 3 sponges that came with the original holder).

 

So, how do I get more of the tank water flowing through the unit - remove the sponges and lightly pack the media holder?

 

Also, this morning when I looked I noticed that a lot of bubbles (like protein skim) had built up in the narrow space behind the media holder - almost as if the gaps around the media holder were creating there own mini protein skimmer (which I don't want to happen here otherwise it will get messy over time).

 

Thanks

 

EDIT: I filled up the top with more floss which seems to have encouraged more water into the media holder, or at least reduced the force of water flowing out again that was causing a skimming effect - still some water overflowing the sides but no more bubbles.

I use my Intank media basket like this: chamber 1 filter floss (just a little), chamber 2 chemipure blue nano, and chamber 3 another little bag of CPN. I also wedged a small piece of air hose to keep the media basket from moving, in conjuction with the small acrilyc piece that comes with it. With those two parts I keep the basket higher up and right against the overflow. I use the stock pump at about 85% and all my water goes through my media basket with no bypass.

[lostsol95]

I'm brand new to reef tanks and building my first, and want to keep it simple and see if I stick with it. I don't want fish, and I only want to have LPS coral like green star polyps. Does anyone have any experience with the Finnex Fugeray Marine+ LED light on the Fusion 10? By specs it seems it might be underpowered, but I've read a few reviews saying that it worked great. It's also a Fuge, so maybe it will grow too much algae and not be for my only tank.

It's relatively inexpensive compared to others, but I don't want to get too discouraged if I can't even get the simple stuff to grow.

 

The specs I found:

PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source
12" fixture: 62 PAR @ 6", 25 PAR @ 12", 13 PAR @ 18"

 

The website says:

46 x Actinic Blue Moonlights

24 x 10,000K Daylight

8.9 Total Watts (which may not matter as much because it's LED)

 

Thanks

[teenyreef]

I'm brand new to reef tanks and building my first, and want to keep it simple and see if I stick with it. I don't want fish, and I only want to have LPS coral like green star polyps. Does anyone have any experience with the Finnex Fugeray Marine+ LED light on the Fusion 10? By specs it seems it might be underpowered, but I've read a few reviews saying that it worked great. It's also a Fuge, so maybe it will grow too much algae and not be for my only tank.

It's relatively inexpensive compared to others, but I don't want to get too discouraged if I can't even get the simple stuff to grow.

 

The specs I found:

PAR Data(Source) PAR vs. Distance from source

12" fixture: 62 PAR @ 6", 25 PAR @ 12", 13 PAR @ 18"

 

The website says:

46 x Actinic Blue Moonlights

24 x 10,000K Daylight

8.9 Total Watts (which may not matter as much because it's LED)

 

Thanks

Welcome to the club!

As far as the light goes, I would not recommend it. And honestly, I did the same thing when I started my first tank, using an underpowered light that really wasn't for reef aquariums. It's one of the early decisions I would change if I could because it was just a waste of money

 

I understand wanting to keep the cost of entry really low - for about the same price, I recommend the Coral Compulsion 14W PAR30 LED 18k light. It screws into a standard light socket so you can put it into any cheap desk lamp stand or hanging fixture. And it has the right spectrum and enough power to support LPS or SPS. I and many other here have used the CC PAR lights with good results.

 

You can't dim it, but moving the height of the fixture above the water does the same thing. Put it on a cheap lamp timer, hand it about 10" above the water line, and you're done.

 

It's $60 plus shipping at the CC site, or if you have Amazon Prime, it's $70 there with free shipping.

 

Look in the first few pages of my 10g thread and there are some pictures of my setup using this light. I still keep it in the spares box just in case I ever need an emergency light.

[Kyl]

Wondering if I should preemptively grab a MP10QD before our dollar drops too much and requires another Canadian MAP adjustment.. One vendor is already warning about it up here, and they did the same thing before the AI / Kessil increases in late summer.

 

Decisions..

[lostsol95]

Thanks so much for the warm welcome and quick reply. You must know how it feels to be torn between wanting to do all of the research up front vs just buy, buy, buy and just get started!

 

That's exactly the type of feedback I was looking for, great, I reached out to Coral Compulsion and they said they'll have some more in shortly. I sent the e-mail at like 1am last night, and got a reply at 1:15am! Now that's customer service! I think I'll buy from them.

 

I saw your pictures of it, and I do have a table lamp lying around, so perfect.

 

Thanks again!

 

Welcome to the club!

As far as the light goes, I would not recommend it. And honestly, I did the same thing when I started my first tank, using an underpowered light that really wasn't for reef aquariums. It's one of the early decisions I would change if I could because it was just a waste of money

 

I understand wanting to keep the cost of entry really low - for about the same price, I recommend the Coral Compulsion 14W PAR30 LED 18k light. It screws into a standard light socket so you can put it into any cheap desk lamp stand or hanging fixture. And it has the right spectrum and enough power to support LPS or SPS. I and many other here have used the CC PAR lights with good results.

 

You can't dim it, but moving the height of the fixture above the water does the same thing. Put it on a cheap lamp timer, hand it about 10" above the water line, and you're done.

 

It's $60 plus shipping at the CC site, or if you have Amazon Prime, it's $70 there with free shipping.

 

Look in the first few pages of my 10g thread and there are some pictures of my setup using this light. I still keep it in the spares box just in case I ever need an emergency light.

[neyankee]

Hey all, question about ATO's...

 

I'm having a bear of a time getting an ATO that is precise and reliable for this tank. I started with the Tunze Nano (float switch) and that was all over the place. It was constantly double dosing so I switched to the IM Hydrofill controller (sensor switch) which was working like a champ for 4 days and then all of sudden started double dosing as well. When I say "double dosing" I mean it will fill to the desired level (3rd chamber 1" below lip) and then out of the blue fires again to 100% fill 3rd chamber. I can't for the life of me understand how both controllers can fire with the switch (float + sensor) underwater.

 

I'm guessing that the small size of the chamber is just within the specs of both ATO's so that is throwing everthing off?

 

Or possibly my skimmer (Mame) is kicking mico bubbles, which it's prone to do, into the 3rd chamber which is "confusing" the sensors?

 

Anyone else experience this?

[waldoz]

I don't know if this is the right place, but what is the average cost or your start up? I am mainly looking for what extra stuff you guys had to buy not including stocking to get it up and running. This tank looks way better than the old ones.

[SarlinDescent]

For those of you with a refugium, what are you using for lights? This IM one is a little pricy and doesn't seem to be reliable. Anyone try a DIY led strip one?

[kylhcky]

I don't know if this is the right place, but what is the average cost or your start up? I am mainly looking for what extra stuff you guys had to buy not including stocking to get it up and running. This tank looks way better than the old ones.

 

 

without a light this tank can easily be done for under $450 including a top of the line ato.

 

the reason i left out the light is because you can get something like the CC par bulb or a chinese led box for the sub $150 light. or you could double your budget and go with a xr15. there's a lot of wiggle room there.

[reefernanoman]

Hey all, question about ATO's...

 

I'm having a bear of a time getting an ATO that is precise and reliable for this tank. I started with the Tunze Nano (float switch) and that was all over the place. It was constantly double dosing so I switched to the IM Hydrofill controller (sensor switch) which was working like a champ for 4 days and then all of sudden started double dosing as well. When I say "double dosing" I mean it will fill to the desired level (3rd chamber 1" below lip) and then out of the blue fires again to 100% fill 3rd chamber. I can't for the life of me understand how both controllers can fire with the switch (float + sensor) underwater.

 

I'm guessing that the small size of the chamber is just within the specs of both ATO's so that is throwing everthing off?

 

Or possibly my skimmer (Mame) is kicking mico bubbles, which it's prone to do, into the 3rd chamber which is "confusing" the sensors?

 

Anyone else experience this?

I'm using my very old JBJ ATO with a newer float switch in the 3rd chamber where the return pump is and it has been working great for me for more than a year. I'm using the IM Desktop skimmer in the middle chamber. I don't think that bubbles have such a huge effect on float switches, since my skimmer has produced many bubbles before and it didn't seem to affect it.

[SarlinDescent]

Installed the intank media basket and fuge this weekend. Also installed the Tunze 3155. Makes you realize how small the back chamber really is. Currently have chamber 1 (inTank media basket with ATO fill line above it), chamber 2 (inTank fuge with cobalt heater wedged on the chamber 1 side), and chamber 3 with Sicce 0.5, 3155, and Neptune probes). I think I am going to diy a custom probe and dosing line holder in chamber 3.

 

Also, ordered some corals from tidal gardens live sale this weekend . They should arrive tomorrow. Now all I need is a Legendary Coral live sale for the rest of the corals.

 

Also, come the new year, I think I am going to add 2 spike fin/flaming prawn gobies. Pod collection has been getting settles for a couple weeks.

 

Edit:

Last thing I installed this weekend was a BRS float valve for my 32 gallon Brute RODI trashcan. Very pleased with the product. Easy install and nice to have the extra security.

[tblake12]

Question for you guys. I'm still running the stock media basket until I find a couple extra bucks for the Intank. Baby girl arrived 3 weeks ago so it may be on hold for a couple of months. What would you guys recommend running in the stock basket? Currently I still have the original yellow and black sponges and I've been changing out the bottom Phosphate sponge. Thanks for the input!!!

[Kyl]

Installed the intank media basket and fuge this weekend. Also installed the Tunze 3155. Makes you realize how small the back chamber really is. Currently have chamber 1 (inTank media basket with ATO fill line above it), chamber 2 (inTank fuge with cobalt heater wedged on the chamber 1 side), and chamber 3 with Sicce 0.5, 3155, and Neptune probes). I think I am going to diy a custom probe and dosing line holder in chamber 3.

 

If you don't want to DIY, the vertex sensor mag xd holder fits perfectly along the far side of the third chamber behind the return pipe, and is large enough to hold an apex temperature probe.

[SarlinDescent]

If you don't want to DIY, the vertex sensor mag xd holder fits perfectly along the far side of the third chamber behind the return pipe, and is large enough to hold an apex temperature probe.

Thanks for the feedback. I actually have the 3155 there. I need something that hangs off the back and goes down the right side of the chamber. Pretty much all walls are in use atm.

 

My goal is to have nothing on the sides of the tank... Not sure how practical that is.

 

Edit:

Current Setup (the blue is the only remotely open area to hang something off the back):

 

There is the possibility to make it hang off the back and run under the return line if needed.

[teenyreef]

I really like the Vertex stuff. I got the magnetic holder for dosing tubes and put it in the third chamber on the back wall. In this pic, the heater is on the far right, the 3155 is on the far left, the Vertex is holding Calcium, ATO, and Alk tubes, and the sensors for temperature and Ph are submerged out of sight. The Apex sensors are fully submersible, but I just hang them over the back edge just deep enough to keep them halfway submerged. I used cable ties to secure the sensor cables to the other tubes and wires hanging in the back so that they don't slip up and down.

 

Vertex by TeenyReef, on Flickr

 

Plus, it comes in a cool box

 

20151204_232641.jpg by TeenyReef, on Flickr

[Kyl]

Yeah, that's the holder. To quote Vince, the Germans always make good stuff.