Fishgirl2393 Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 So, I'm looking at sump pumps. Here are my options (I need opinions on which would be better). I can get a Marineland Maxi-Jet400 or 600, a Rio+ 800, or an Ehiem compact 300 (POSSIBLY a 600 but I'm not sure on that). So, which would work best? Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 2 days ago ammonia dropped down to almost 0 and then yesterday, it was 0. The nitrites were still high as of yesterday. The tank is progressing well though I think. Corals are still OK in the temporary tank. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Reef is still cycling with no ammonia present and the nitrites are going down (this test was on Tuesday). Will be testing today to check again. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 Almost done cycling. The tank has 0.25ppm nitrite and 0.00 ppm ammonia. So, soon guys, very soon! I have a xenia on hold at the LFS and the other corals are still in the quarantine tank. How should I go about making sure frags/coral rocks don't transfer algae/cyano to the tank? Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 Still 0.25ppm. How should I go about making sure frags/coral rocks don't transfer algae/cyano to the tank? Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 So, the tank is 0ppm nitrite or VERY close to that. I'm going to "fortify' the bacteria (add a bottle of the live bacteria that does seem to work for me) and add the CUC today. Then, if all is well, tomorrow/in a couple of days, I'll add the corals to the tank too. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 Should I add the CUC now or wait until I do a water change (tomorrow hopefully). These are the parameters (I didn't check calcium or dKH). Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 40ppm I figured I would get a high nitrate reading because the ammonia went up to 8+ppm before going down (and it hung at 8+ppm for several days) so, first off, is that normal? Secondly, should I wait to add the clean up crew until I do a water change? Thirdly, should I add the corals at the same time as the CUC or wait a few days? And finally, how big of a water change should I do? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 A clean up crew is to clean up algae. Do you have any diatoms showing? If you do not they will starve and die and you could have another ammonia spike. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 OK. Don't have diatoms yet but I'm sure I will once I put the light back on the tank. So, do water change and then what? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 You've been in this a long time Fishgirl, by your own admission, about 5 years. Posting every 3 seconds during a cycling tank when this is not your first rodeo is surprising. If you need a refresher on the nitrogen cycle, we all do from time to time, then google it. Do what? Wait. Then wait some more. All tests zero? Wait more. Move corals when all tests zero for a week or more. Add CUC only when you see algae. Keep testing. You know the drill. Don't you? 2 Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 I do. I just have an unstable temporary tank that I would like to get the critters out of as soon as I can. They seem OK but the water is NOT great. I also have a coral on hold at the LFS for when the tank is ready. I put the lights over the tank last night in an effort to get SOME diatoms to start growing. Quote Link to comment
Nano sapiens Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 I do. I just have an unstable temporary tank that I would like to get the critters out of as soon as I can. They seem OK but the water is NOT great. I also have a coral on hold at the LFS for when the tank is ready. I put the lights over the tank last night in an effort to get SOME diatoms to start growing. "When you rush a tank set up, bad things happen. When bad things happen, you get frustrated and angry. When you get frustrated and angry everything dies. Don't let everything die...take a chill-pill and follow the drill" 4 Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 Well, I DO have some algae (green film like) on the glass. I may put the CUC in but we'll see. Corals are going to have to wait. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 Nitrites and ammonia have been 0 for a few days now. The tank is "cycled" but I'm going to wait to add the corals back. The CUC will be going in once I do a water change to lower nitrates (probably tomorrow I'll do a water change) and then, a few days later (if all is still good), I'll add the corals. I DO have algae for the CUC to eat so that's good. Quote Link to comment
Acielot Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 I DO have algae for the CUC to eat so that's good. Worse case scenario is that for the time being you CUC will self regulate if there are too many. Hermits can be fed and will subside on whatever they can forage on for awhile. Snails on the other hand will have to be replaced every so often (either due to expiring or by predation.). I do recommend a Mexican turbo after your tank has been setup for awhile since mine seems to be the workhorse of all the snails in the tank. The ceriths do an okay job but they are terribly slow. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 Thanks. The good thing is that I don't have very many CUC at ALL right now. I have 5 hermits, 1 cerith, 1 nerite, and a brittle star. It will be later today when I add them because I'm going to be gone most of the day. I guess the high nitrates are "normal" after a cycle (from what I've read) and obviously I need to get them lower. So, water change is in order! Quote Link to comment
opaquelace Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 If the nitrates are high the tank is still cycling. Nitrates should be within safe ranges and nitrites/ammonia at 0 for a period of time before adding any corals/fish. I always add my clean up crew when I start to see green hair algae (I run my lights for a cycle like normal). Once the clean up crew is finished cleaning and the tank is clear and the params are good and stable then I'll add either my first fish or coral. Sometimes it's 2 months before I'll add anything. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 I know what you're saying but to be honest, I've NEVER had a tank have nitrates go down after ammonia and nitrite. I don't think it's very common to have that happen. I know some can achieve denitrification (nitrate to nitrogen gas) but that's never happened to me. Quote Link to comment
Nano sapiens Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Denitrification will always happen in a properly set up tank, but it can take a couple months for the bacteria to multiply sufficiently to handle the load. Other unfavorable factors are at work in your tanks if you never see nitrate drop from cycling levels. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Can you explain how to get this to occur? I'm very interested. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Oh and I started with dry rock if that makes any difference. I added the CUC today because I have diatoms now (a fair amount on the rocks). So, how is de-nitrification achieved in a reef tank? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Nitrites and ammonia have been 0 for a few days now. The tank is "cycled" but I'm going to wait to add the corals back. The CUC will be going in once I do a water change to lower nitrates (probably tomorrow I'll do a water change) and then, a few days later (if all is still good), I'll add the corals. I DO have algae for the CUC to eat so that's good. How is your cycle done if you still have nitrates, please illuminate me. Thanks. The good thing is that I don't have very many CUC at ALL right now. I have 5 hermits, 1 cerith, 1 nerite, and a brittle star. It will be later today when I add them because I'm going to be gone most of the day. I guess the high nitrates are "normal" after a cycle (from what I've read) and obviously I need to get them lower. So, water change is in order! Where have you read that high nitrates are normal? Link please. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Never said high nitrates were good. I have just read (including on many threads on here but also many other places) that nitrate removal is usually accomplished by water changes and that de-nitrification is next to impossible in small tanks. So, as I said, please illuminate me on how this is accomplished! I started with dry rock and Arag-Alive sand. Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Never said high nitrates were good. I have just read (including on many threads on here but also many other places) that nitrate removal is usually accomplished by water changes and that de-nitrification is next to impossible in small tanks. So, as I said, please illuminate me on how this is accomplished! I started with dry rock and Arag-Alive sand. You said high nitrates are "normal". Can you share the link where you read that it is normal? Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 You are misunderstanding me. I mean that nitrates at the end of a cycle (ammonia and nitrite 0) is expected and typical. Now, I know very well that it is NOT good. I'm just saying that nitrates are the end product in most tanks. So, if someone can explain how to achieve de-nitrification, I'm interested. Quote Link to comment
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