My 20-Gallon (Tall) Softie/lps Nano-Reef!

[Fishgirl2393]

OK. Well, lights are something I'm going to get new bulbs (or POSSIBLY a new fixture) but first, I need to get the nitrates lower. I tested them tonight (I've been gone a few days) and they're the same as when I left so at least they're not skyrocketing like they were before. I have some stringy cyano growing but NOTHING like before. I THINK from what I've read that cyano (like diatoms) are expected of a new tank and that as long as the nitrates/phosphates are lowered, they will NOT hang around. So, tomorrow (hopefully), I'm going to do a MASSIVE water change and get them low. I also have to move the red mushrooms that are in the picture because the largest one has moved down the rock (it needs less light I guess).

[jedimasterben]

Cyano is what happens when there is a lack of balance in nitrate and phosphate, tilted towards phosphate. This is why a lot of tanks running biopellets constantly fight cyano, their system becomes nitrate-limited and phosphate builds up a bit.

[Fishgirl2393]

OK. Well, I'm running phosphate media so I think it's mostly nitrate with me. It is correct that cyano happens in a lot of new tanks right? I'm doing a 10-gallon water change today plus moving some corals.

Cyano is what happens when there is a lack of balance in nitrate and phosphate, tilted towards phosphate. This is why a lot of tanks running biopellets constantly fight cyano, their system becomes nitrate-limited and phosphate builds up a bit.

OK. Well, I'm running phosphate media so I think it's mostly nitrate with me. It is correct that cyano happens in a lot of new tanks right? I'm doing a 10-gallon water change today plus moving some corals.

[jedimasterben]

Cyano does mostly happen in newer tanks, simply because most people don't understand nutrients, and they become imbalanced due to a lack of a biological filter or nutrient export. I understood a lot of that from the get-go, and I've never had a cyano outbreak in my main tank. Dinoflagellates, yes, cyano, no, but dinos are a very different story with a different ending.

[Fishgirl2393]

Just completed a 10-gallon water change. Nitrates are much lower (tested at 15ppm but may be lower due to stir-up factor!). So, things should start doing really well.

[Fishgirl2393]

So, is 15ppm nitrates OK? I want them lower but the huge water changes are getting old. However, I know that water changes are the best thing and if I need to do another, I will. What type of denitrification should I use long-term besides water changes (I plan on 2-gallon water changes in the long run)? I'm a little scared of carbon dosing (partly because my skimmer is not amazing and partly because I've read accounts of cyano growth from dosing). So, what are my options?

Oh and would it be OK to add a shrimp soon (peppermint probably) or should I wait?

[jedimasterben]

Nope, get them down to the 0.5-2ppm range, and keep phosphate in the 0.02-0.4ppm range.

[Fishgirl2393]

How? Other than water changes is there a way?

[jedimasterben]

Time. And better methods of nutrient export (large refugium, algae scrubber, efficient skimming, etc).

[Fishgirl2393]

OK. I'm looking into a better skimmer. Thanks!

[Fishgirl2393]

Oh and I'm guessing that since I started with base rock (dry rock) the tank may take a bit longer to establish denitrification. So, I'm leaving the tank as is for a while (no new critters)!

[Fishgirl2393]

So, just checked the xenia frag that I put into the small tank (the one I thought wouldn't make it) and some of it (not all unfortunately) has attached itself and seems OK!

[Fishgirl2393]

Someone please answer. Would it be possible to increase the efficiency of my Lee's Skimmer by adding a small (45GPH) powerhead to the intake to "force" water in??? Would that make it work better or worse (or not change it at all?)? Thanks!

[jack1978]

Just buy an appropriate skimmer for your tank. Although with all of your water changes.....I don't know why you need one.

[Chadf]

You need a dsb more than anybody. I've been doing this a long time and I just don't understand how you always have problems, it's not that hard.

[Fishgirl2393]

I don't really have problems right now. I just needed to lower nitrates that accumulated during the cycle. The corals look good and though I do have some MILD stringy cyano, it's going away and is NOT the same "strain" as the other type I had.

[jedimasterben]

80ppm nitrate would not accumulate during a cycle. Maybe 5-10ppm.

[Chadf]

80ppm nitrate would not accumulate during a cycle. Maybe 5-10ppm.

 

Indeed. The only positive nitrate test I've ever seen in person was my wife's tank, which just so happened to not have a dsb.

[jedimasterben]

Indeed. The only positive nitrate test I've ever seen in person was my wife's tank, which just so happened to not have a dsb.

DSB are great if you don't plan on the tank being set up with the same sandbed for many years. Eventually they get saturated with bound phosphorus and detritus and starts dying from the bottom up, usually take the tank down with it. Happens after 5-10 years, though, so you'd have plenty of time to replace it.

[Fishgirl2393]

Well, the nitrates were 80ppm after the cycle and nothing else was in the tank. The ammonia went up to at least 8ppm and stayed there for several days (though the nitrITE went up before the ammonia showed it went down so I suspect it was higher than the test kit reads) before it started going down. I can't add a DSB to the MAIN tank but I might be able to look into a remote one. However, not everyone on here has one so I would like to figure out what I'm not doing (or doing wrong). I simply HAVE NOT fed the tank since the liquid I fed a while back (posted it on here but don't remember when it was and don't want to go back and find the date) and there is not very much in it (the mushrooms of several kinds, xenia, kenya tree, blue star polyps and candycane) and NO fish. So, what's up? The skimmer may not be the best but it does skim the water.

[Chadf]

DSB are great if you don't plan on the tank being set up with the same sandbed for many years. Eventually they get saturated with bound phosphorus and detritus and starts dying from the bottom up, usually take the tank down with it. Happens after 5-10 years, though, so you'd have plenty of time to replace it.

You silly.

 

Fishgirl, there is no reason to feed your tank whatsoever. Once you have fish, feed them. Your coral will be fine without liquid. I haven't fed my coral in months and they're growing and thriving.

[Fishgirl2393]

I know that now. I just meant, what can I do to keep them low once I get them there (and what can I do to get them low besides water changes?)? And is there anything wrong with the setup (that you can tell from the equipment, etc listed on first page)?

[Acielot]

The process to get them low and the process to keep them low is exactly the same. Once you establish a method to get them to miniscule levels that is all you have to do. If you then start to see the nitrates on the rise and notice that your method no longer works you either have to improve your method or find out where the extra nitrates are coming from.

[Fishgirl2393]

Well, I have a question (and PLEASE don't "flame" me!). My LFS has a T. Maxima clam and I was wondering if my lighting (T5HO) would support it? I know clams can be difficult but if it would work, I'm willing to work hard to keep it. Let me know.

[Acielot]

Assuming that your parameters are in check and your lighting is strong enough - let me ask you this. How large is it? If it is a tiny 1"-2" clam then you shouldn't get it. They need an extensive care regime when they are tiny because they simply do not produce enough food via photosynthesis alone.