jedimasterben Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Assuming that your parameters are in check and your lighting is strong enough - let me ask you this. How large is it? If it is a tiny 1"-2" clam then you shouldn't get it. They need an extensive care regime when they are tiny because they simply do not produce enough food via photosynthesis alone. They produce far more than enough energy via photosynthesis, but all clams need nitrogen and other elements from the water. They do not need food, nor is there really any other care. Trying to bowl feed, etc will just stress them out and probably kill them. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 It's probably 2 1/2 inches. So, is my LIGHTING strong enough? My calcium seems stable at 450-460 and alk and pH are stable (10dKH and 8.1). The nitrates are low now and all. So, lighting is the main concern of mine. What do you think? Quote Link to comment
Acielot Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I was under the impression that with small clams, they need to be supplement fed phyto or reef snow. Quote Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I was under the impression that with small clams, they need to be supplement fed phyto or reef snow. Nope. Check out James Fatherree's book on clams. It's probably 2 1/2 inches. So, is my LIGHTING strong enough? My calcium seems stable at 450-460 and alk and pH are stable (10dKH and 8.1). The nitrates are low now and all. So, lighting is the main concern of mine. What do you think? I'd give one several hundred PAR, and really no less. Squamosa and derasa are the least light-limited, and I'd still give them at least 100 PAR. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 What about the lights? Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 I'd give one several hundred PAR, and really no less. Squamosa and derasa are the least light-limited, and I'd still give them at least 100 PAR. So, I don't have a PAR meter. Is my light capable of that if I place it high up on the rocks? Quote Link to comment
Snow_Phoenix Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I don't think that's a wise idea. Clams are usually grounded in substrate like sand. And I personally feel you aren't ready to do a clam yet. JMO. Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Well, I have another question. Would it be better (not for a clam but just overall) for my light bulbs to be like this... (back to front) Back BLUE WHITE BLUE WHITE Front this... Back WHITE BLUE WHITE BLUE Front this... Back BLUE WHITE WHITE BLUE Front or this... (the current configuration) Back BLUE BLUEWHITE WHITE Front Quote Link to comment
Dark_ice Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 do not kill a clam too. nuff said 1 Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 OK. First off, I wouldn't kill it. But anyway, lights... which setup would work best? Quote Link to comment
Dark_ice Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 you can be 100% sure you wouldent.. yet you dont know what lighting to use? im not picking on you im just saying its not a good idea, i have a 3 year established reef and im yet to attempt one.. Quote Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 So, I don't have a PAR meter. Is my light capable of that if I place it high up on the rocks? If you have good bulbs and a quality fixture made with good reflectors. I don't think that's a wise idea. Clams are usually grounded in substrate like sand. And I personally feel you aren't ready to do a clam yet. JMO. Almost all of the clams available are rock-living species, with only some surviving if they reach the sand (typically squamosa and derasa only, and only if they are very large). Rock is better for all clams because they'll get more light. If they don't like something, they'll detach and try and find their own spot. Well, I have another question. Would it be better (not for a clam but just overall) for my light bulbs to be like this... (back to front) Back BLUE WHITE BLUE WHITE Front this... Back WHITE BLUE WHITE BLUE Front this... Back BLUE WHITE WHITE BLUE Front or this... (the current configuration) Back BLUE BLUE WHITE WHITE Front Order doesn't matter. At all. People make all kinds of a big deal about it, but it really doesn't. 2 Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 I'm not for sure trying one. I just wondered was all. Which lighting setup (listed above) would be best? Also, what's the best placement for powerheads? I can't ever seem to get strong flow on the corals AND enough on the sand bed. So, do I need another powerhead or what? Quote Link to comment
Dark_ice Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 how many heads do you have? and what types? i have 1 on my 20 long and its no where near enough 1 Quote Link to comment
Acielot Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 GPH of each por favor. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 I have a Koralia 425 and my HOB (Aqua-Tech 5-15 that supposedly pumps 100GPH). So, is more needed? Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Do I need more flow? Is the Seachem nitrate test kit any good? Quote Link to comment
jadedanime Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Holy crap....you ask too many questions at once. Consolidate into one post... Lighting order...doesn't matter. Already hashed that. We can't tell you if flow is really enough. If you aren't getting good coverage....then obviously you should add another. A hob doesn't do much other than one spot and surface agitation in my experience. Seachem isn't high end but it also isn't API. Of course you would know the answers to these questions if you spent three minutes using the search bar above.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Tamberav Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I would get more flow. I feel like my koralia's push nothing. Quote Link to comment
Acielot Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I have a Koralia 425 and my HOB (Aqua-Tech 5-15 that supposedly pumps 100GPH). So, is more needed? Just save for an mp10 and put it on one side around 50%-70% reef crest and it creates a wonderful flow. Quote Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Do I need more flow? Is the Seachem nitrate test kit any good? If you're going to use any test kits, then use these: Cal/Alk/Mag: Red Sea Nitrate/Phosphate: Red Sea And if you want to be fancy, Hanna colorimeters for alkalinity and phosphate. If you keep spending money on lesser equipment, you will end up spending far more in the process than by buying quality outright. Even if you got a blue box MP10 for $130 in the FS section, you'd be far better off than what you're probably planning for flow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 I know MP10 are good. I just can't see spending that much on a powerhead. I was looking at either a Maxi-Jet or another Koralia. I will certainly look into those test kits. What about Salifert? I have a Salifert calcium test and really like it. Quote Link to comment
TheKleinReef Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I know MP10 are good. I just can't see spending that much on a powerhead. I was looking at either a Maxi-Jet or another Koralia. I will certainly look into those test kits. What about Salifert? I have a Salifert calcium test and really like it. Salifert is awesome. That's all I use. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fishgirl2393 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Cleaned salt creep off lights before they came on. Looks like two bulbs especially need replacing because they are obviously dimmer than the others. Interestingly enough, it is one 10000K and one actinic that need it the most! Redid my skimmer because after replacing the airstone, it was collecting plain water in the cup. However, I readjusted it and now it's good. Quote Link to comment
jack1978 Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/jack1978/media/angry-clam.gif.html'> Quote Link to comment
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