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Oxydator and Hydrogen peroxide.


atoll

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Haha yes they do smell quite strong but that is totally normal. Vodka dosing is comparable but I like the fact that it contains some resins as well to adsorb toxins. The odor is caused by the bacteria+what is adsorbed by the polymer resins in the packet. I've never noticed a smell being expelled into my tank though, my water has a nice aroma too it imo but I've always enjoyed the smell of the ocean since I was a kid.

 

I agree with you I could never smell the packet outside of the tank but when I had to replace them....whew. Smelled reminiscent of when I had to replace media in my denitrator.

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I saw a slight improvement in my water clarity with the Oxydator

 

I dunno about all this oxydator shit, but I noticed a huge improvement in my water clarity when I switched to Starphire, really got rid of that nasty green tinge :lol:

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CronicReefer

 

I dunno about all this oxydator shit, but I noticed a huge improvement in my water clarity when I switched to Starphire, really got rid of that nasty green tinge :lol:

Haha well my tank was made in 1999 sooo I'm not sure Starphire was something available back then. The only green tinge I see is my glass algae but I like it, I wish it would fully cover the back wall but my stomatellas are becoming quite numerous.

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Haha well my tank was made in 1999 sooo I'm not sure Starphire was something available back then. The only green tinge I see is my glass algae but I like it, I wish it would fully cover the back wall but my stomatellas are becoming quite numerous.

Stomatellas :wub:

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I was looking at the cross sectional view of the Oxydator again and its a pretty nifty design. Its very elegant in how it dispenses H2O2 to increase the O2 concentration in the tank. But I also think it wastes a great deal of the O2 just to do this. From what I can tell, the O2 generated increases pressure in the container. This O2 is wasted to increase the pressure of the cavity. The increased pressure forces a small amount of H2O2 out the small hole. You need this pressure because the diving bell air pocket is pushing up. The water around the diving bell pocket is mostly stagnant, therefore any H2O2 that is around here will react and the O2 produced will become part of the diving bell pocket, slowly increasing the O2 concentration of the diving bell pocket. This increased O2 concentration then increases the O2 concentration of the surrounding water due to differences in concentration of O2. And eventually this oxygen saturated water spreads into the tank, increasing O2 levels. Pretty cool and fairly controlled manner of increasing O2 levels. But still, you have to waste H2O2. So, would there be another method you could use that wouldn't waste O2 to generate increased pressure in the container cavity? Just as an FYI, this is a similar method used for adding CO2 to planted tanks. Trap a pocket of CO2 under a plastic cup and over the course of a couple days it will be dissolved into the water.

 

Edit: I realized there is no waste and I'll explain with pics when I'm not driving. Oh man, this device is pretty ingenious!

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Marc.The.Shark

Ok, so I received my PerOxydator this morning & I was in need of cleaning my Tunze return pump out cause it was getting a little warm & heating up the return water to my tank a degree or so & the heater wasn't kicking in. So I decided to put it in & give it a whirl. The Nano one is pretty tiny, which is good cause I just have a small sump/fuge. i followed the instructions & added the H2O2 and 1 catylyst. When I added it to the tank I could immediately see the tiny bubbles from the reaction. I placed the PerOxydator in my 1st chamber right after my filter sock.

 

So my setup is as follows: 8 gal display, minus LR, so prob about 6 gal total. 4 gal sump/fuge, a little LR, pump, cheato & small frag rack, prob about 2-1/2 to 3 gal total. So I have a total water volume of roughly 8 gal.

 

Of note: the only real issue I have with any algae is on the glass every 3 days, gets pretty heavy after the 2nd day. Only have 3 or 4 snails so they can't keep up. I'm running Chemipure Blue in the bottom of my filter sock, then into the fuge area with cheato, then return. I have a skimmer but removed it as I haven't the need so far. I'll also add that I've created a kind of pseudo algae scrubber between the fuge & return area. I cut a piece of that plastic craft screen to place between the cheato and return section to catch stray pieces from clogging my return pump & it has given me the added benefit of growing algae on the screen, not a lot, as I only really scrub it off about once a month & I haven't roughed up the screen like they do with the scrubbers, but it's a small benefit as is.

 

I don't forsee any of the tiny bubbles getting into my display area. I thoroughly cleaned the glass & we'll see what happens. My trates are 0 as is PO4 with the Hanna Phosphorus. I'm sure there is a little something there getting used by the small amount of algae in my fuge, but the Hanna reads zero. I feed sparingly, 1 yellow tail gets pellets or flakes every other day & coral twice a week Reef Frenzy/frozen Cyclops. My pH has been around 8.1 at night & 8.2-8.3 during the day. We'll see if this affects that. I added it about an hour ago & my pH is 8.09 right now.

 

Added a pic of my display & sump/fuge. You can't see the Oxydator, it's down behind the frag rack. The cheato I just pruned in half & you can see the screen I was talking about, I cleaned/rinsed that all off as well.

post-12858-0-93592100-1426641895_thumb.jpg

post-12858-0-49388100-1426641913_thumb.jpg

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I just received my 35% peroxide and diluted it to 7%. Are the bubbles that are escaping oxygen bubbles? Or are they merely the peroxide coming out? Can the catalyst really turn the peroxide into o2 that quickly?

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NgDKH2ol.png

33uNgSvl.png

lXFSjdll.png

sG8S3RPl.png

I'm sure my last step is probably never reached because I imagine most people would replace the mixture before it reached this point. But I figured I'd include it anyway. In the end, O2 is wasted, but most likely not as much as I was envisioning.

Disclaimer: This is how I imagine this device to work based on physics and fluid/thermal dynamics.

 

I have a theory as to why some people experienced an algae bloom when running the Oxydator. I think the increased O2 levels increased the rate at which Nitrite was converted into Nitrate. Essentially a boost in the aerobic bacteria population. This in turn fed the algae. Not sure if running the Oxydator longer would eventually result in less algae or not. It would all come down to how you got rid of the excess nitrate. Or increase the anaerobic bacteria population in your tank which is probably easier said than done.

 

In the end, this is a pretty cool device. A passive delivery system of O2. Its safer due to low pressure and not having to deal with pure O2 directly. Don't want to blow something up. I still think filling a bottle of peroxide and running a line to a diffuser within the aquarium is a better idea due to space saving and ease of changing out the mixture. During my search for a diagram of the Oxydator, I found this:

 

screen-shot-2013-05-16-at-e4b88be58d8810

http://aquakitz.com/japan-nag-aqua-oxydator/

 

I think this would work as an O2 diffuser. The CO2 diffusers probably have holes that are too large for O2 and the gas wouldn't be as fine coming out as CO2 does.

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CronicReefer

NgDKH2ol.png

33uNgSvl.png

lXFSjdll.png

sG8S3RPl.png

I'm sure my last step is probably never reached because I imagine most people would replace the mixture before it reached this point. But I figured I'd include it anyway. In the end, O2 is wasted, but most likely not as much as I was envisioning.

Disclaimer: This is how I imagine this device to work based on physics and fluid/thermal dynamics.

 

I have a theory as to why some people experienced an algae bloom when running the Oxydator. I think the increased O2 levels increased the rate at which Nitrite was converted into Nitrate. Essentially a boost in the aerobic bacteria population. This in turn fed the algae. Not sure if running the Oxydator longer would eventually result in less algae or not. It would all come down to how you got rid of the excess nitrate. Or increase the anaerobic bacteria population in your tank which is probably easier said than done.

 

In the end, this is a pretty cool device. A passive delivery system of O2. Its safer due to low pressure and not having to deal with pure O2 directly. Don't want to blow something up. I still think filling a bottle of peroxide and running a line to a diffuser within the aquarium is a better idea due to space saving and ease of changing out the mixture. During my search for a diagram of the Oxydator, I found this:

 

screen-shot-2013-05-16-at-e4b88be58d8810

http://aquakitz.com/japan-nag-aqua-oxydator/

 

I think this would work as an O2 diffuser. The CO2 diffusers probably have holes that are too large for O2 and the gas wouldn't be as fine coming out as CO2 does.

Yay!!!! Someone else actually gets why the diving bell is so important. The oxydator does produce CO2 as a byproduct of organics breaking down when coming into contact with O2.
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Yay!!!! Someone else actually gets why the diving bell is so important. The oxydator does produce CO2 as a byproduct of organics breaking down when coming into contact with O2.

 

Yeah, that diving bell is pretty much the whole key to the device. Without it, you wouldn't get that steady drip of H2O2 and O2 saturated water and you wouldn't get the highly concentrated O2 bubbles that come out like in this picture.

 

RTEmagicC_Biotechnik-3.jpg.jpg

 

Edit: But, without a doubt, H2O2 is getting into the water. The reason it isn't a huge problem is because there is not a lot of water movement in the area which doesn't pull the H2O2 into the tank. Instead the H2O2 breaks down and the O2 bubbles add to the diving bell bubble, fueling the whole O2 bubbling in the tank.

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CronicReefer

Yeah, that diving bell is pretty much the whole key to the device. Without it, you wouldn't get that steady drip of H2O2 and O2 saturated water and you wouldn't get the highly concentrated O2 bubbles that come out like in this picture.RTEmagicC_Biotechnik-3.jpg.jpg

 

Edit: But, without a doubt, H2O2 is getting into the water. The reason it isn't a huge problem is because there is not a lot of water movement in the area which doesn't pull the H2O2 into the tank. Instead the H2O2 breaks down and the O2 bubbles add to the diving bell bubble, fueling the whole O2 bubbling in the tank.

Yes and I think this is how over saturation is prevented as well. Marine depot has a table showing how much water and oxygen is produced with different catalyst number and peroxide concentration.
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albertthiel

Yes and I think this is how over saturation is prevented as well. Marine depot has a table showing how much water and oxygen is produced with different catalyst number and peroxide concentration.

 

I wonder though where they got their information from ... just saying

 

Albert

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CronicReefer

 

I wonder though where they got their information from ... just saying

 

Albert

Yes it would be nice to know if it was from the manufacturer or some test carried out.

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albertthiel

Yes it would be nice to know if it was from the manufacturer or some test carried out.

 

My guess from their web site and from the little user manuals that come with the Oxydators

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CronicReefer

 

My guess from their web site and from the little user manuals that come with the Oxydators

Well if it is from the user manuals I would assume that to be reliable data since it is coming from the manufacturer. If it is just some guess from marinedepot based on what should come out if you do some math then I wouldn't trust it 100%.

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albertthiel

Well if it is from the user manuals I would assume that to be reliable data since it is coming from the manufacturer. If it is just some guess from marinedepot based on what should come out if you do some math then I wouldn't trust it 100%.

 

Indeed ... seems to be skewed towards FW also

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albertthiel

Is there a link to diluting h2o2?

 

Not that I have seen but it is easy to do. Add distilled water till you get the desired %

 

E.g. 50% H2O2 and 50% distilled in a 35% peroxide gives you 17.5% etc ...

 

Albert

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NgDKH2ol.png

33uNgSvl.png

lXFSjdll.png

sG8S3RPl.png

I'm sure my last step is probably never reached because I imagine most people would replace the mixture before it reached this point. But I figured I'd include it anyway. In the end, O2 is wasted, but most likely not as much as I was envisioning.

Disclaimer: This is how I imagine this device to work based on physics and fluid/thermal dynamics.

 

I have a theory as to why some people experienced an algae bloom when running the Oxydator. I think the increased O2 levels increased the rate at which Nitrite was converted into Nitrate. Essentially a boost in the aerobic bacteria population. This in turn fed the algae. Not sure if running the Oxydator longer would eventually result in less algae or not. It would all come down to how you got rid of the excess nitrate. Or increase the anaerobic bacteria population in your tank which is probably easier said than done.

 

In the end, this is a pretty cool device. A passive delivery system of O2. Its safer due to low pressure and not having to deal with pure O2 directly. Don't want to blow something up. I still think filling a bottle of peroxide and running a line to a diffuser within the aquarium is a better idea due to space saving and ease of changing out the mixture. During my search for a diagram of the Oxydator, I found this:

 

screen-shot-2013-05-16-at-e4b88be58d8810

http://aquakitz.com/japan-nag-aqua-oxydator/

 

I think this would work as an O2 diffuser. The CO2 diffusers probably have holes that are too large for O2 and the gas wouldn't be as fine coming out as CO2 does.

This is a great representation of what is going on - but not with the nano version. There is no "diving bell" in the nano. I'll take pictures later, but the mini/nano has no "lip" inside the ceramic dish, it's just a U shaped device. The lid itself for the jar is not solid all the way around - it looks like a star, with 3-4 pieces of plastic jutting away from the lid that contact the ceramic dish to hold it in place. There are gaps, though, it's not sealed. If you removed the little overhangs from the ceramic dish thing you made, you'd have what I have.

 

Looks like this:

bjoiZWz.png

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albertthiel

This is a great representation of what is going on - but not with the nano version. There is no "diving bell" in the nano. I'll take pictures later, but the mini/nano has no "lip" inside the ceramic dish, it's just a U shaped device. The lid itself for the jar is not solid all the way around - it looks like a star, with 3-4 pieces of plastic jutting away from the lid that contact the ceramic dish to hold it in place. There are gaps, though, it's not sealed. If you removed the little overhangs from the ceramic dish thing you made, you'd have what I have.

 

Looks like this:

bjoiZWz.png

 

Yes and that other device from Japan is just an air bubbler to force oxygen in the water and prevent splash on the lights ... it is not the same as what we are talking about

 

The drawing for the mini as you show it tibbsy is indeed the way is it constructed

 

The problem with all the devices seems to be that it is not easy at all to run experiments or tests with them which make it difficult to come to a conclusion on what we are trying to determine

 

 

 

Albert

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Well if it is from the user manuals I would assume that to be reliable data since it is coming from the manufacturer. If it is just some guess from marinedepot based on what should come out if you do some math then I wouldn't trust it 100%.

The manufacturers supply 4.9% peroxide, which is below the 5% minimum recommended, lol. I'm not sure all their information is reliable. Silly manufacturers.

 

Yes and that other device from Japan is just an air bubbler to force oxygen in the water and prevent splash on the lights ... it is not the same as what we are talking about

 

The drawing for the mini as you show it tibbsy is indeed the way is it constructed

 

The problem with all the devices seems to be that it is not easy at all to run experiments or tests with them which make it difficult to come to a conclusion on what we are trying to determine

 

 

 

Albert

Sure, and I think Cronic and afyounie know what they are talking about. I'm simply pointing out that while the design they are discussing would do EXACTLY what they say it does, with virtually no peroxide leak and I have never seen the medium or large oxydators or any other than the Sochting Nano that I have, that diagram above can't be totally happening with the Sochting mini/nano because it requires very specific variations on what I actually have, notably a lip in the ceramic dish and the completely solid lid rim.

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albertthiel

The manufacturers supply 4.9% peroxide, which is below the 5% minimum recommended, lol. I'm not sure all their information is reliable. Silly manufacturers.

Sure, and I think Cronic and afyounie know what they are talking about. I'm simply pointing out that while the design they are discussing would do EXACTLY what they say it does, with virtually no peroxide leak and I have never seen the medium or large oxydators or any other than the Sochting Nano that I have, that diagram above can't be totally happening with the Sochting mini/nano because it requires very specific variations on what I actually have, notably a lip in the ceramic dish and the completely solid lid rim.

 

I think it has to do with what can be shipped via the carriers like UPS, Post Office etc ... not sure but I believe that is the reason for the 4.9% not much different from 5% really

 

Albert

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