Peroxide saves my Tank! With pics to Prove It!

[sean151]

I found chaeto to not survive long-term dosing of peroxide into the tank, but my dosing rate is about 1mL:1G.

[NirvanaandTool]

Ah ok. Good to know. I'll relocate all but a few pieces of everything to test it out if I go that route.

 

So far all the macro survived that initial treatment but that is as far as I've gotten.

[brandon429]

I found chaeto to not survive long-term dosing of peroxide into the tank, but my dosing rate is about 1mL:1G.

Ha that's a party dose. If I recommended anything like that they would drum me out of town. But I know your tank can take it depending on what higher inverts you have. My tank gets 35% to a ridiculous degree and thats the same impact as your 1:1 if not twice as bad. It just can't be recommended, if anyone lost a pod unplanned total ridicule would ensue and I'd lose all this peroxide feedback which is then converted into info to run my tank

[jedimasterben]

I can't seem to kill GHA with peroxide (3%). It withstands a direct blast of 3mL for each square inch (or less, usually per 'tuft') AND taking the rock out of the water and spraying it on with a spray bottle. I sit and WATCH the algae bubble like mad, but no dice. I've got GFO and biopellets running right now, and if anything, the GHA is spreading. I'm over it.

[brandon429]

Dang! Well it can't beat 35% as a spot treatment thats for sure. But It is annoying if something that used to respond doesnt...its what happened to me cleaning the inside of my glass with three percent. Got to where it just wouldn't work, green and brown haze algae was totally immune.

 

Nothing is immune to 35% algae wise though, so if all else fails up the percentage. Most people move on to other methods at that point, 35 is mighty dangerous

35% still doesn't kill shrooms and zoanthids though, amazing huh

 

The reason I still use it compared to other methods is the ability to drain the tank for a full water change shortly afterwards. Unlike large tanks I don't have to factor in a residual dosage left in tank. I just burn out all my needed spots when drained and refill, drain again to rip out the peroxide used. Lets me use more than an average amount per run, tank is sparkling for a while after until repeat some time later. I'm seeing no tolerance in algae to 35%, it seems to surpass their metabolic and photosynthetic machinery complements every time.

[NirvanaandTool]

So update, I havent started dosing yet but my C. Prolifera algae wasnt effected at all by last week's treatment. In fact, new growth was spotted last night.

 

I'll probably get around to dosing sometime later this week. Gotta bigger fish to fry right now - gotta figure out what's wrong with my angler's jaw

[jedimasterben]

Brandon, mark up sebae anemones as not tolerating peroxide, even 3%. :/

[BigAl07]

Brandon, mark up sebae anemones as not tolerating peroxide, even 3%. :/

 

Sorry to hear that Ben. That sucks.

 

On the flip side the RBTA (or at least the variation I have) is very tolerant of it even at silly high dosage levels. They aren't splitting with the H2O2 treatment (which surprised me) but I'm sure once I stop the dosing they will go back to their normal "split a lot" behavior again.

 

The only drawback I have noticed in my tank (other than GHA leaving completely) is that my Red Planet is now almost completely Green. Lighting schedule or intensity has not changed but it's turned green without a doubt. On the flip side it is producing so many tinyt new "branches" that the whole structure of the coral base has changed dramatically in the last couple of months. It could be coincidental that this happened directly after starting a heavy H2O2 regimen as this coral has been mostly encrusting for months with only a single large thick branch until recently. I would estimate that right now there are at least 40 small "nubs" rising from the base stretching upwards towards the light. I'll try to get pics soon.

[Deckoz2302]

Brandon, mark up sebae anemones as not tolerating peroxide, even 3%. :/

 

Be more specific. Heteracis Malu is not a sebae damnit. Please carry on lol

[jedimasterben]

Sorry to hear that Ben. That sucks.

 

On the flip side the RBTA (or at least the variation I have) is very tolerant of it even at silly high dosage levels. They aren't splitting with the H2O2 treatment (which surprised me) but I'm sure once I stop the dosing they will go back to their normal "split a lot" behavior again.

 

The only drawback I have noticed in my tank (other than GHA leaving completely) is that my Red Planet is now almost completely Green. Lighting schedule or intensity has not changed but it's turned green without a doubt. On the flip side it is producing so many tinyt new "branches" that the whole structure of the coral base has changed dramatically in the last couple of months. It could be coincidental that this happened directly after starting a heavy H2O2 regimen as this coral has been mostly encrusting for months with only a single large thick branch until recently. I would estimate that right now there are at least 40 small "nubs" rising from the base stretching upwards towards the light. I'll try to get pics soon.

Red planet is a very strange coral in regards to growth patterns and color. In no two tanks is it alike, and no one really knows why. Maybe yours is flipping to the green planet ORA just released.

[jedimasterben]

Yep, nem is completely toast now.

 

[Deckoz2302]

Yep, nem is completely toast now.

 

 

Did you kill that brand new nem? .....

[jedimasterben]

Did you kill that brand new nem? .....

Peroxide doesnt #### around, and I didnt even think about since I've been nem-less for so long.

[Deckoz2302]

Peroxide doesnt #### around, and I didnt even think about since I've been nem-less for so long.

Didn't you stop dosing peroxide. Why did you start up again. I thought you learned your lesson last go around. ...

[brandon429]

Duly noted Ben

[BigAl07]

Ben I am sorry to hear your Nem is a goner. That thoroughly sucks big time.

Red planet is a very strange coral in regards to growth patterns and color. In no two tanks is it alike, and no one really knows why. Maybe yours is flipping to the green planet ORA just released.

 

 

Ahh that's what it's doing. Maybe it was ORA Green Planet all along but wasn't mature enough until now. Yea that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[Ocho Cinco]

I'm having a problem with Bryopsis. I just started using Tech M to raise MG. After reading some about peroxide I thought of dipping the affected rocks which most have coral on them. What would a good starting point be?

[brandon429]

I would start by not getting any on the corals, it can be precisely applied using any micro tool or brush. just lift out rocks and spot treat, take before and after pics

[Gooburz]

I would start by not getting any on the corals, it can be precisely applied using any micro tool or brush. just lift out rocks and spot treat, take before and after pics

Following up to your PM the tank is actually looking MUCH better after the massive water change on my 20L and there are still traces of Dino but no where near as bad. Problem has been going on for over a month; yesterday I did the 75% water change, tried to get as much of it as I could out of the sand bed and rocks, cleaned the Aquaclear 70 really well, and am running dual carbon, filter floss (changed daily) and Phosguard to bring Phosphates down from 1 ppm, tested today and i'm at about .5ppm so its going down. I kept the lights off in the tank all day yesterday and doing it all day today and tomorrow.

 

I'm at the point of thinking I need to dose with peroxide, if so please explain in detail on how to do the whole tank. Pics as requested are below, its not a good camera but you can see a little bit still left, if I turn the lights back on I'm afraid it will explode again in the tank. So where do I go from here?

 

 

 

I know the Pics don't show much but its because of the major cleaning I did with the tank, It looks good now but i'd rather show you a clean tank than one with an outbreak.

[brandon429]

This is a prime, prime example of why we need pics before doing whole tank dosing. you have a lysmata cleaner shrimp, the weakest peroxide animal of them all. So, if you are to treat the whole tank, which I do think will work well, you must remove and house him as he's likely to die from even a minimal amnt of peroxide in system

 

 

and on a positive note, the tank isn't stacked with corals yet so the treatment can be pretty steep to really knock out the target invader (which I can't see but I believe you its there, at least you did a lot of removal work ahead of time thats a great move)

 

you can easily dose 2milliliters of peroxide per 10 gallons of tank water, dump it right in the tank during this extended lights out phase. hit the dino with both peroxide and a lights out run, it w zap it I bet

 

you can input this dose of 2mls per 10 gallons twice a week, I bet one week will work. take it week by week is my reco, if you turn on lights again and it looks great, but in a month starts to come back, dont give up most of our invaders need some follow up work. A solid week of real lights out, not daylight leaking in from the side of a tank cover but real lights out like when people tape black trashbags to the tank, + a week of dual peroxide doses has a 75% chance of being the only thing needed to beat your dinos. 25% chance it will need a repeat in a month to take care of a small comeback, thats my prediction.

 

these dinos are an obligate hitchhiker, meaning once you truly beat them they can never come back regardless of nutrient levels. so, once you are sure you've won this round, qt or dip all your incoming frags going forward

 

I dont have a ml syringe handy...if this was my tank Id just google how many liquid drops is a ml, I think its five or ten

 

lol wiki says 20

[Gooburz]

This is a prime, prime example of why we need pics before doing whole tank dosing. you have a lysmata cleaner shrimp, the weakest peroxide animal of them all. So, if you are to treat the whole tank, which I do think will work well, you must remove and house him as he's likely to die from even a minimal amnt of peroxide in system

 

 

and on a positive note, the tank isn't stacked with corals yet so the treatment can be pretty steep to really knock out the target invader (which I can't see but I believe you its there, at least you did a lot of removal work ahead of time thats a great move)

 

you can easily dose 2milliliters of peroxide per 10 gallons of tank water, dump it right in the tank during this extended lights out phase. hit the dino with both peroxide and a lights out run, it w zap it I bet

 

you can input this dose of 2mls per 10 gallons twice a week, I bet one week will work. take it week by week is my reco, if you turn on lights again and it looks great, but in a month starts to come back, dont give up most of our invaders need some follow up work. A solid week of real lights out, not daylight leaking in from the side of a tank cover but real lights out like when people tape black trashbags to the tank, + a week of dual peroxide doses has a 75% chance of being the only thing needed to beat your dinos. 25% chance it will need a repeat in a month to take care of a small comeback, thats my prediction.

 

these dinos are an obligate hitchhiker, meaning once you truly beat them they can never come back regardless of nutrient levels. so, once you are sure you've won this round, qt or dip all your incoming frags going forward

 

I dont have a ml syringe handy...if this was my tank Id just google how many liquid drops is a ml, I think its five or ten

 

lol wiki says 20

 

 

THANK YOU SO MUCH! I will put the shrimp into a QT tank for the time being and get started on this right away. Will I need to take the carbon media out of my filter basket while i'm doing the peroxide and will I need to do a water change within a day or 2 or just leave it be? Again thank you!

[brandon429]

you can leave the carbon and after your very last treatment, whenever you guess you are ready to try the full up and running system again like normal, the peroxide will dissipate from the system naturally probably within 48 hrs per what I read but since we are dealing with a known sensitive Id either do a nice fat water change + that time, or just wait about 4 days more to be darn sure. thats my reco

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[dtitus1]

Hey so does peroxide kill Macro algaes? I've dosed it before but need to again after I remove my nerites and didn't have macros before.

[brandon429]

We have done that. The best way is to externally treat the rocks the second best way is to inject macro spots underwater, very slowly with pumps off, of the dose 1-2 mls per ten gallons depending on whats in the tank

[brandon429]

Dinoflagellate Treatment options

 

Since we were just discussing this I thought it would be a helpful reference to post some threads from rc on the matter, this large thread has a range of treaments that, while anecdotal like most of our treatments here, continue to show resounding consistency and readers can draw from that whats best for their tank. there are peroxide treatments and outcomes, algaeX treatment and outcomes, lights out, pH spiking, all the usual:

 

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1962886&page=28