Peroxide saves my Tank! With pics to Prove It!

[sublime1996525]

Well I finally got my shrimp to the LFS and did the first dose of peroxide tonight. I had to take almost all of my rock out to catch the shrimp so I guess this is the perfect chance to rescape. Here are some predose pictures:

Edited December 22, 2012 by sublime1996525

[joeyhatch11]

I had a slight GHA out break on my sand bed and simply ran Kent's Phosphate Sponge. After having in the tank over night, I believe it was only 12-13hrs later the tops of all the GHA turned white, as seen in the pics using the peroxide. At that point I swapped out the first batch of phospahte sponge and ran a second. Within a 48hr window ALL GHA was dead and the water has never looked so crystal clear. Now I run a small amount, placed in a mesh bag in the sump but thats only untill I can get soem GFO for my tumbler.

 

This was my first time having a GHA issue and I wanted it out ASAP before it became a HUGE problem. I read may reviews on Marinedepot on all the phosephate removers and the Kent Sponge had the best reviews/results. I feel that you need something that's going to act fast and get rid of the problem. The peroxide seems like a long battle that may never be won or will need multiple treatments. Plus the Kent's has no ill effects on ANY of my corals. LPS, SPS, softies all did just fine while treating. Everything opened everyday and I've seen no unhappy corals because of it.

[brandon429]

Sure that's a valid result at least you found something that works for your tank. The lack of consistency in getting that result across tanks is the reason we have peroxide use, and the loss of corals from over stripping. We see problems with corals bleaching, failure to remove algae after running gfo, and trade off infestations of Cyanobacteria when relying on po4 strippers as a removal agent, but if your run worked with no problems I'd def stick with that approach. I'd venture to guess 60% of those who show up for peroxide options tried what you describe, and are still using it during the treatment. I say use whatever gets you results!

 

The type of invader also matters...bryopsis and red brush algae are almost never affected by po4 removers so be thankful those aren't your trouble source

Edited December 22, 2012 by brandon429

[brandon429]

By all means if anyone can save their tanks by using Kent's phosphate sponge and no other treatments you should take that route. We just view the repeated purchasing of new sponges as an equal trade off to repeated treatments with peroxide... All forms of algae prevention are repeat events. I'd prefer a simple filter pad/sponge sitting in a filter to the hassle of taking apart rock work any day of the week

 

The algal turf scrubber crew thinks we are both crazy though for using any chemicals at all...they get their results using more algae!

I have no room in my pico for either filtration approach so I'm stuck still with peroxide

 

the best thing you did was take any action before the whole tank was taken over. #1 rule in algae free nano reefing, permit no algae. my tanks were algae free long before Id heard of peroxide but the work was tedious, took hours and hours to do and had to be done alot more often than one touchup every 4 months which is my current anti-algae workload. i used to fire burn all pests with a long neck grill lighter

 

other than normal tank care, I spend 15 mins once every few mos for a perfectly clean reef. Some people get these results you and I get with no chemical at all, they just use a clean up crew. finding that lucky combo is every keepers delight for sure

Edited December 22, 2012 by brandon429

[bhd130d]

Hello All. Im really in need of help. I believe this is bryopsis but I did not take action right away so this is what my tank looked like. This is my first SW tank and its a RSM 130. Its fully cycled. Im lucky here because there is no fish or coral, just a few snails and hermits. I have used kents Tech M for about 3-4 weeks now. I my Mg is around 1800. I feel that it really slowed the growth of this stuff but its not killed it.

 

I have manually removed everything I could so the tank does not look like this pic anymore. I have been removing rocks one by one, one day at a time, and using a spray bottle to apply peroxide and let it burn for a few mins then I would dip in a peroxide/water mix for 10-15mins then let it sit in RO/DI overnight the i would put it back in the tank.

 

Whatever strands that were still on the rock have turned white but they are still hard to remove. Scraping does not work. I have done this for 3-4 rocks but now i need to get to the bottom rocks and its becoming a pain. I also still have this growing on the glass.

 

Since I have the advantage of not having corals or fish, should I dose peroxide to the tank or just keep doing what Im doing. My concern is that im not killing it all, and since im going rock by rock im worried that spores may spread to the rocks i already treated.

 

I really dont want to take down the tank as I just finished cycling a few weeks ago and I have fish in QT. So you guys are my last hope.

 

Thanks!

 

 

[sublime1996525]

Here is 2 days after my first treatment of the top half of the tank. About to do my second treatment.

[brandon429]

sublime that looks great its coming along just fine, maybe take up to 5 days or so but I can see a difference...bhd you have a type of invader that has strong holdfasts in the rock, after it turns white it needs further time to degrade and naturally turn loosebut it will, if you let it degrade slowly over time it wont hurt anything. with each day of no photosynthesis machinery the structure anchoring the algae to the rocks will eventually release as the proteins that hold it all together disintegrate

 

thank you both for outstanding pics, pics drive the threads and those are laser sharp nice high res

[bhd130d]

Thats great to find someone who knows exactly what I have! Thank You.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but I just wanted to ask what you think my next steps should be. I know you like the spot treatments and suggest lowering water level or removing rocks, but I would rather dose the tank since I have no coral, if you think that will work. And should I start at the higer rate of ~3ml per gallon or stick with 1ml per gallon.

 

Also with the kent and peroxide dosing, do you continue WC's? I have then dosed the kent as necessary to increase it back to ~1800.( its not much)

[brandon429]

I always kept my wchange routine the same. If you want to dose the tank that's fine, but instead of dosing the top of the water, use any given tool to very slowly inject the algae underwater with the pumps turned off, this increases contact time greatly. You can use any dose from one to four mils per ten, no dose hurts the filter bacteria. This was one of the old assumptions we shot down in actual testing and feedback. Peroxide is a very poor antibiotic in the reef tank.

[brandon429]

sublime just one follow up possibility for your tank

 

a few retreatments might be needed to finish it off, its set in pretty well

 

 

I know you will want the shirmp back in the reef pretty soon so for those follow ups it would be ideal if you could remove the rocks that need it and treat externally, if you rinse really well the shrimp will be ok

 

on the reefcentral peroxide thread we are seeing a few posters with lysmata who did extreme rinses like soaking in a bucket of clean saltwater that was circulated and heated for a couple days before returning, anything creative will work if it rinses well and provides just a little delay time before being placed back in the tank

[bhd130d]

Today I found a dead hermit. Cannot be sure if its the peroxide dips I did or the Tech M taking its toll after prolonged exposure. Anyway I treated as you suggested and let the pumps off for an hour or so. I turned them on just now as im leaving for the holidays. We will see how the tank looks tomorrow when I get back.

 

Thanks!

[bhd130d]

Merry Christmas everyone.

 

The snails have been acting weird since I dosed the tank. They are falling off rocks and going in circles. Its strange, its kinda like they are drunk.

 

The areas I spot treated under the water have no change. Looks like I should take the rocks out and dip them. if it looks like peroxide does not effect the bacteria in the tank then doing this should not cause another cycle. Im just going to do that I think.

 

Will keep you posted. Will also post pics I have and a summery of my treatment.

[jedimasterben]

Go home snails, you're drunk.

[brandon429]

I hope we dont lose your cuc...yes I agree external dips are best if you can switch to that mode

 

this thread from rc adds another element to using peroxide to correct a tank. he used peroxide to clean it all out and then an algal turf scrubber to control regrowth, a combined approach and the tank was truly wrecked before he started. 100% overgrowth.

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2230858&page=2

[sublime1996525]

Well day 6 and 2 treatments later and I see a difference for sure! I did another water change this morning and I have to pick up my shrimp today. My second treatment was done last night. The shrimp should be okay right?

[bhd130d]

Sublime, Thats so awesome! Great pics

[brandon429]

Using lysmata cleaners anywhere around it is unpredictable so its anyone's guess. the longer you let the shrimp stay QT after your last treatment the better the chances, thats my best guess! nice pics they are in line with what we see across tanks Im happy for you

[Trogdor447]

Sublime that is pretty impressive results - are you planning long term success with more husbandry or just keep running the same? These kind of pics fascinate me - I am too chicken to dose anything in my tank as i feel its just a bandaid for the larger problem.

[JEK-41]

HI there all, I found this thread earlier today, I read most of it and finally decided I need to post something regarding this "RED BUBBLE" aka Red Valonia.

I started my JBJ 28 CF 2 years ago with all Dry Rock and seeded it with a friends piece of Coralline covered Live Rock.

All my parameters are in check.... I just can't stop this Red Bubble crap.

All was good for 2 years, until recently I ordered a clean up crew and introduced it to my tank... "short story" ended up with this Red Valonia (Botryocladia skottsbergii) and a Mojano Anemone.... WOOO HOOO 'ya rite! I am beyond frustrated...

I am thinking about doing a slow drip of peroxide in my display tank. From what I read the only occupant that will parish or maybe die would be my cleaner shrimp which I really like and my xenia which i don't really care about.

Any thoughts ..... please anyone .... looking to eradicate this b4 it becomes a big problem.

Thanks in advance
-Jek-

 

[brandon429]

 

How strange my response got deleted Jek. to retype, we don't recommend using a drip method any longer. the drain and treat or external treatments is best if you want predictable results.

 

I think the xenia might get mad for a few days and not die. the shrimp is likely to, but not if you QT it in another tank for a few days.

[JEK-41]

10-4 Brandon

 

Looks like my Cleaner Shrimp is going to take a

winter vacation in the basement... I have a 15 gal

frag tank. Then I will dose my other tank with H2O2,

hopefully that will nuke all the Red Valonia.

 

FYI... I posted the same thing on you RC Thread.

 

Thanks again

-Jek-

[Veng]

Awesome pics.

 

I have to ask, how long till someone just starts dosing peroxide?

[JEK-41]

Never mind.... maybe I try this?

 

 

I was going to try to increase my 2 part dose so to raise

calcium up to an insane (figuratively speaking) and slowly raise

my SG in the process, maybe I can make it start to "ENCRUST"

before the bubbles rupture.

Later

-Jek-

[Polarcollision]

 

 

 

I couldn't agree more.

 

Now why don't you guys impress me and come up with a miracle cure for CYANO! I have the cleanest, most pristine, most over-skimmed tank I've ever personally seen, and I still can't get rid of it entirely. And all anybody ever says is it's your water. Kiss my dimpled, freckled, pimpled, hairy BUTT.

I had a cyano outbreak and cured it with directing my return jets at the outbreak for a couple days. Bacteria con't grow when nutrients are limited. Since it forms a biofilm to hoard nutrients and also since it was primarily growing on the sandbed, I added cerith snails to break up the biofilm. It's gone and has not returned. No chemicals used.

 

Edit: Also, encouraging other bacteria (or algae) to grow will crowd out cyano's ability to use the free nutrients in the water.

[Polarcollision]

I always kept my wchange routine the same. If you want to dose the tank that's fine, but instead of dosing the top of the water, use any given tool to very slowly inject the algae underwater with the pumps turned off, this increases contact time greatly. You can use any dose from one to four mils per ten, no dose hurts the filter bacteria. This was one of the old assumptions we shot down in actual testing and feedback. Peroxide is a very poor antibiotic in the reef tank.

Here's a bit of info about the hows and whys this works. Hopefully you'll find it helpful in figuring out what concentrations to try:

 

Aerobic and some facultative anaerobic bacteria produce the enzyme catalaze (and other enzymes) to handle rective oxygen species and super oxygen. The way we tested for aerobes in the lab is by dumping peroxide on cultures and waiting for O2 bubbles. So, as long as the enzyme does not become the limiting factor, they should survive. Anaerobic bacteria in DSBs will suffer since they do not have enzymes to process peroxide, much like the photosynthetic algae. Zooanthelle should be protected by their coral hosts.

 

I believe all aerobic organisms produce catalaze (and other enzymes) to neutralize reactive oxygen species--there are always exceptions, so corals and fish should also be fine at lower peroxide concentrations. I would guess in the instance of cyano outbreaks following this proceedure that beyond the increase in nutrients from die off, that the normal biota are also reduced and so they are not competing against cyano.

 

I have the first tufts of turf algae starting to grow on the rock with SPS frags glued to it. Will try taking the rock out and spot-treating and let you know how it goes.