• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About brandon429

  • Rank

  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Reefing, drumming, metal, motorcycle, rc fpv uavs, scooby diving, biology

    Why does this man talk about peroxide so much? is he insane? why does he hate api test kits?

Recent Profile Visitors

1,094 profile views
  1. additional reference material options see post #8 from this soft cycle thread on r2r uncured ocean rock, that's likely what we have above due to benthics in tow, its why LFS cured rock is typically just coralline and not 90% plants. sitting in water for a few days is no harm at all, I thought this was all out of water. post 8 was written for the type of rock you are using Lisa the entire thread is that there's three different kinds of cycling and each is different in regards to how we administer or remediate ammonia, and how that ammonia is measured and verified and cross verified without test kits. 1. live rock, skip the cycle and go and try and bring home underwater where possible 2. dry rock, give it the ammonia and bottle bac and in 30 days or less its ready 3. uncured rock, shows up with the highest bacterial count of them all, far more diversity than our tanks will sustain long term--perform water changes literally like CPR arresting ammonia growth as possible, *including pre removing some growths before they die* if you want that kind of prep. others just cure it out a while, to see whats going to stay.
  2. post pics of the rocks if you can so we can see details. did you mean the rock was out of water for 4 days? you'd be surprised, but depending on how it was kept (say in a bag sealed, but without water) it can still have its filtration abilities in place. need pics and air exposure details. bacteria are unlikely to die even in 4 days out of water, they're that tough. if it was baking in the backyard sun that's one thing, but wet rock stored in a bucket in the house for several days still has its bacteria among the crevices, the motile/larger life like worms and pods and sponges if applicable are where the ammonia is coming from. we would keep up water changes until it stops self-producing ammonia, then you can use the rock. 4 days out of water isn't necessarily antibacterial, after all our doorknobs keep bacteria 24x7 having never been in the water at all. nitrifying bacteria are complexed among scums and other films that have insulation abilities to some degree, but agreed out of water for that long means slow build up again usually. are there any life forms on the rock still alive...pods worms etc>? any life forms in the tank?
  3. consider space walls in the pico they work pretty sick find any sort of packaging that uses clear polycarbonate, literally any of it is reef safe. half my monti frags are glued to plastic polycarb planks cut from 9 volt batter Duracell display/retail sales boxes that the batteries come in. the clear little window is that plastic, you can cut out a 2x2" square of it and then use a lighter to heat up one edge and curl it back, which is the glue surface find the offensive sweeper coral and put superglue on the folded ridge and just glue the wall in between two corals. invisible underwater and a literal polyp block. I had some in place for so long they fully cemented w coralline and were part of the reef.
  4. oh I thought he said rocks included above it was no rocks... this is a unique timing for a tank for sure. if the tank was setup without verifying ammonia I might even look into polyfiltration pads for it as quick arrest. the ramp up time it would take new bioballs to become impactful is too long to burn in raw ammonia for the fish. It must be said, about 90% of ammonia tests and reactions thereafter are on totally false measures where the real ammonia was zero. Im as interested to know how someone verified an ammonia test as I am to see the results of the test.
  5. standard tank cycling, once you have fully cycled materials the ammonia and nitrite w be zero.
  6. based on the answer above you do not need any bioballs, not even one. so to add one or 100 of them is the same effect on your tank. the more you add, the more you have to keep clean and free of detritus. they will not help your tank run better. to add 100 of them all at once will not hurt, it will not help, its a neutral action same as having none. once you have cycled materials rock and sand they will handle your ammonia...--- free ammonia is the only reason to ever consider using bioballs in a reef tank. I currently recommend using zero bioballs for the life of your reefing. if you begin aquaculturing fish, look into them if you decide to leave in what you've already added, that's a neutral action it simply doesn't matter what you add or take away regarding filtration in a nano reef because the live rock and sand, once cycled, is always enough. really accurate alternate example would be to take a standard freshwater canister filter and hook up five of them to any running reef tank in the forum, however creatively we could accomplish that hookup and turn them on. in three months, each filter is fully cycled and contributing to the nitrate loading of the tank even though the pre-install condition was working just fine. We can remove some or all of those cycled filters immediately, or in stages, it doesn't matter--all neutral actions since the pre install condition was zero ammonia and producing nitrate just fine. the tank will not go through a cycle from us removing surface area that was never required to match the # of fish we ran. Bacteria will colonize any surface area we submerge in our tanks, well beyond whats actually needed to reef safely.
  7. there are two parts to that answer the first is an estimate based on these factors: how much live rock w be in the holding tank how much live sand how many fish gallons of holding tank and the second part is the specifics, an ammonia test confirms or denies the estimation amount. after a given bioload is introduced into a cycled holding tank, increase bioballs until the free ammonia stops. The only systems that truly need bioballs and any other type of surface area boost are fish production labs/aquaculture labs where high fish bioloading is packed into dense holdings. any arrangement of live rock and live sand in a marine tank of any normal stocking will reduce ammonia just fine, we are dealing in excess surface areas not limited ones. bioballs are not harmful or bad in a reef tank, they're just redundant because any normal system already reduces its own ammonia. people would rather use a nitrate reducing agent in their sump spaces nowadays.
  8. agreed we are saying for a nano, disturbance isn't a big deal because few if any nano sandbeds are reducing nitrate... they're contributing in every measurable case where we test the bottom mud sample for nitrate (after the sample sits open in the air a couple days for bac action to render) and then compare that reading to a topwater only reading. bed tests higher, slowly pumps out the waste. the animals are helping by casting up detritus for mechanical catching where applicable that kickup is coral food as well by being so busy they help kick up waste for something else to remove it, typically a filter pad. contrast that to a slow sand sifting star, inputting waste pellets, no speedy kickup action its clear to see so many generations of nanos and picos also replicated the classic large tank method of simply do not disturb the bed. we find in time there are accidents and things we do that will disturb it anyway, unplanned, to the results mentioned above so it turns out that attacking waste preemptively is keeping the oldest tanks like new in perpetuity until a better way is found.
  9. agreed all
  10. We have a six page thread on why it doesn't but agreed that's the intended shock value first reason why: rinsing anything in tap water isn't antibacterial or lab techs would wipe down slides and surfaces with tap water to sterilize. We can't even sterilize steel medical surfaces using scalding hot tap water, much less a cool five min rinse on surfaces that look like the Grand Canyon at the microscopic level (sand grains have troughs and valleys that retain bacteria) if anyone here takes a sample drop of actual tap water and places it on selective agar for generalized aerobes and incubates at correct temp for 48 hours, it has tons of living bacteria in it...many of which come from the pipe scum before the tap. Water that alternates hot/cold with no -apparent- direct feeding still pumps out filthy bac into our lemonade. Tap is suppressive not sterilizing and it doesn't work well in short burst applications. second takeaway is impact: if the loss of sandbed bacteria mattered nobody could go bare bottom from a formerly sandbedded tank the point of the rinse isn't the tap, it's the force removal of all detritus and the cyano at the same time. This could be a sw rinse just the same
  11. The cure for diatoms not joking:
  12. we can assess the po4 issue with a simple mortar and pestle trick have access to saltwater that tests zero po4 first. then use a screwdriver to fleck off a piece of rock and hammer/pestle it creatively into powder and dump it into the sample cup as a high surface area powder. give the sample about 5 days for bac to work on any potential po4 (bacterial digestion is how it moves from locked in the calcium carbonate matrix into free po4 in the water) and then retest. In no way is that rock or minor po4 readings the cause of algae. po4 chasing isn't required to be algae free, but catching up on a farmed invasion sure is tough. We do not ever need to know po4 readings or nitrate readings to be algae free in our huge threads on tank restoration, action we take against the target is way more important. po4 and nitrate management is helpful to allow us to work less on being algae free. The work we do guarantees a no algae condition even if the po4 is spiked unusually. one reason I do not concern over nutrients is because I can take any nano on this board that doesn't have an algae problem, GFO and ATS in tow, and simply shine my old bum 6500K metal halide planted tank nice n low and they'll bloom within algae in a day given ideal water params. we find too bright LED to be as impactful as detailed po4 management regarding algae issues, but for sure the #1 cause is direct unquarantined import of the invader paired with no action on target. 35% peroxide and a kitchen knife, no reef can grow algae in my house. never happens. algae doesn't have the fortitude to grow in my pico.
  13. I consider them to be the ideal crab for picos. ive used pom poms since 2001 they do stand on corals but not predate them they can go up and yank a bit of food out of an acan, but that's par for a reef its not kid gloves world lol! Ive never seen my boxers do anything wrong to cause any loss, and, Ive lost two in my bowl unable to retrieve them and the system digested them without a cycle or spike. my longest captive boxer/pom pom crab was 5 yrs in the reefbowl. the will adapt to the feeding you already provide just fine. their only negative is crawling on the corals, youll see some closed up time to time because of that and Ive never lost a coral because of them. open and close is a coral's life.
  14. One nice detail too is that lack of motion isn't particularly impactful to a reefbowl in this state, we use low to no fish in them, we don't store up waste by practice (which xlates into less excess bacterial substrate/biological oxygen command for precious O2 in the water) and I've ran my air at a trickle rate practically same as none but I was gone for eight days to nyc Water changes with heated water if gas stove was avail also nice optn
  15. yes agreed I must watch it in others picos for quite a while lol I googled it and found nothing local to buy its to be released. maybe already avail overseas possibly but no ready source as of yet which is kind of a drag, I assumed before posting we could amazon it though I didn't check!