brandon429

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    Why does this man talk about peroxide so much? is he insane? why does he hate api test kits?

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  1. Randy's article on nitrate in the reef tank supports that notion in larger tanks, that getting to the source is a better venture only because it will save work not that the changes are harmful. dirty sandbeds are so offensive lol, they cause nearly all our problems given enough time. There's a storage and non-release phase for them that can last a year or more in normal sized nanos that makes it seem it will always be smooth running that slow action paired with the typical hands off mode for live rocks, and once the aging nano gets a decently-seated invader on the rocks that sandbed fuel kicks in right about then and pow, invasion underway. That's the cycle for 90% of entrants into peroxide threads.
  2. I think an ideal first go is mushroom corals, nice color and really tough, zoanthids too, any of them. my ideal first starter stony coral is the candy coral, caulastrea, they'll have things along those lines. once you are sure temp and lighting and evaporation/salinity is under control its time to start, it will run very smoothly, those corals are low demand on the sytem. just feed them right before you do your water change, they can last years and years given all hardware and user error luck.
  3. these cheapies run all my planted micro systems I no longer use power compacts https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Flexible-Daylight-Gardens-Kitchen/dp/B00HSF66JO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487953210&sr=8-3&keywords=waterproof+led+strip+white any of the white ones off amazon w grow macro or any other plant. Im getting them to grow alternanthera, red plant that is really tricky to grow. love these leds.
  4. that's skip cycle live rock you don't have to wait. all you need to do is a full water change matching the temp and salinity only, and add an easy starter coral time to get reefin that live rock w have no dieoff, its as ready now as if you waited six months. the type of rock that needs to cycle is barren white dry rock, that's covered in coralline you show. coralline=ready
  5. HC Your whole system would tolerate the same it's just better to do preventative work vs rip cleaning work in larger tanks, stability is not affected. Your anemones and fish would be the sensitives... easy to work around though we collect take apart/skip cycle and reassembly work on the R2R sand rinse/move tank thread, no limit to how often you can part out and reassemble a tank it just takes varying degrees of water contact for sensitives All your sps and lps could take 15 mins in the air right now with no practice, live rock double. The risk in the strip down move is stirring up pent up waste... that's the double edged sword in being hands off permanently in design, the locus of risk isn't the drain or clean it's the store of proteins that are mid breakdown and not nitrified yet. tested for in any reef tank by grabbing a handful of sand/releasing it and seeing if it clouds... Cloudless is attainable~clouding is what the masses will reveal. My system is modular and easily parted w no coral damage but that is by design- coral density reduced to allow access-increase access to the ten year threshold Most larger systems are breakable comparatively, corals lock the rocks in place delicately Preventative maintenance to avoid sandbed sinking will be key in ripening those types of setups imo
  6. I didn't know about that thank you for mentioning. The only coral book I own is the one from Eric Borneman... that takeaway came to me after all the picos that would age up to a few years then start giving major problems The rule of sandbed care in the 90s was Berlin Do not disturb Guaranteed nitrate reduction just because we added sand, though now we know that varies and selects for nitrate -production- more so I got so mad at losing picos, in 2006 my anger and dollars morphed into: Algae? I'll lift out the rock and torch it off with a grill lighter, then I'll knife scrape the area, then I'll hit it with 35% peroxide in the air for five minutes direct, on the stabbed clean surface. Sandbed gasses to make me hesitant to touch this crazy setup teetering on death? I'll never give the chance. I'll rip clean and force cleanliness, idleness gone. The vase will comply. They set up insta tanks at MACNA, why is that any different than me skip cycling to clean and take it apart? Being fed up on rules got me here...years of toil and cost if pico reefing could ever be deemed a toil. Old tank syndrome is defeated only an errant nerf or unapproved indoor soccer kick will do me in
  7. but not for a pico if there was, an older pico would exist using any other method. at least that sets the stage for a fun challenge for alt means, to drive the science of small tanks old picos that store waste anywhere get tossed in the cyano bin by month 48 heh its merely the physical access that makes it such a worth while routine (Cleaning out the waste not just siphoning the topwater off the top of it, agreed that's a continual pump scenario) we could avoid sandbed cleaning and use refugium, carbon dosing, ats, but none of them are needed if we clean from the bottom up!
  8. it will suppress them not kill them you haven't retro scaled your cycle although 8 is darn high lol. you can easily prove its assumed status by dosing ammonium chloride to 1 ppm (after a full water change, already too much ammonia in system) using two different ammonia test kits so you can see an average, and then retest in 24 hours. absolutely any movement down of the reading matches the assumption that they had it underwater longer than a month based on pics and coloration. its not starkly barren white rock it appears to have a little coloration on it. are there any pods, worms, fanworms, sponges or is it devoid of motile life? any algae on it? the 1 ppm test tells us if you need to be cycling it further at all. if it passes a digestion test, we know a lot about how long they kept it under water. you can also pull out a couple test rocks and digest test them in a circulated home depot bucket of clean water at 1 ppm so you don't have to take action on your tank yet with its larger gallonage. I agree 8 is too high but it wont sterilize ya
  9. no weekly its just the full drain and change no sandbed rinse Not needed that often, this holds seven mos ish at only a gallon, its the same work as if I changed half of it but I get the most export for my five minute run weekly That big sandbed blast is after serveral mos...a few weeks skipping the change, typical buildup in the sandbed etc. those are rarer but I got good vid of this most recent one. It will literally make a pico live forever given all hardware and user error luck. we can see the average lifespan for 1-3 gallon tanks is about 4 yrs on the web using more hands off approaches. most people nowadays aren't using a dsb anymore, the bare bottom approach makes detritus removal easy, you don't have to disassemble because its reachable. Larger tanks nowadays are doing preemptive bed cleaning like stirring it up and siphoning out top layers before the incursion, so they don't have to rip like this in catchup. I like to constantly demonstrate with my own risk and $$ how to control cycling of a reef tank so that confidence skyrockets and we gain total control over what the tank does. if I took time to stir my top layers more often then I could do less of those above. thanks for chiming in y'all a tiny and coral-packed pico is such a great demonstrator of this access because one mistake will kill it all, that's literally one gallon of dilution, not much ammonia would cause a cascade galore in that packed vase. being that assertive against waste is actually safer than partially cleaning a dirtier tank.
  10. to intercept sandbed waste is my only reason, that way no GHA ever ever creeps on my rock, and the system stays invader free preemptively not reactively as catch up two hours later its this, for a decade now. its possible to have literally no algae for the life of a tank, no cyano, no diatoms, no valonia, all through that type of assertive reefing.
  11. I do the max, 100% water changes plus tap water rinsing of my whole sandbed all at once...then saltwater rinse, then reassemble all corals and rocks back on crystal white sand. it gets me the longest interval in between work to rip change it 100% or 200% back to back full flushing changes. that's about as mean as one can get, I agree no kid glove water changes for my reef its bulletproof due to fringe reef living.
  12. that's a neat detail can you post a pic of the rocks. what timeframe are you talking regarding the barely cured...has that live rock been underwater for 60 days for example depending on certain submersion times, adding ammonia to this rock at all may not be required. a few ppm is no big deal either way, just fun detailing it would be neat to see pics
  13. that's a great light selection. to skip your cycle, simply buy the most premium expensive coated in sixty colors of growth live rock your pet store has. any live rock w lots of coralline can be skip cycled, its impossible to have coralline rock and not have a full complement of filtration bacteria, coralline is a direct bioindicator of the ability to oxidize ammonia waste even though coralline itself isn't the workhorse. my own pico stays drained 25 mins in the air while I take it apart and clean it...skip cycle cleaning moving rock from your pet store to home in a small bucket of sw is hundreds of times nicer. my 11 yr old pico is taken apart, corals and rocks in the air for 20 mins, sand cleaned fully and put back, its like setting up a new tank every time. every cleaning I do is a skip cycle. regarding the dosers and the types of rock that show up white/barren and no bacteria/dry rocks, those dosers indeed won't plant enough bacteria on the rocks instantly such that a direct full water change just after could then be refilled and pass an ammonia digestion test. not enough contact time. They dose the water and given some time that constant presence speeds up the process by which the bac seat and multiply on the intended filtration surfaces. you can add aged materials that don't require any cycling time, but you cant instantly cycle nonaged materials. the reason people can add fish right in with the new dry rock is because of the bacteria added in suspension not whats actually adhered onto the rock. once cycled, any tank can have a full water change, then be refilled, and still pass an ammonia digestion test as proof of that.
  14. hey that is neat, without that ingredients list at the end it would have left me wondering how they get bac to live indefinitely in the closed bottle its only bac feed, not bac so they require the mb7 for the bac source. alternatively, one can just dose that Brightwell soln into the tank after its set up and the normal complement of bac from nature and simple cross contamination as we set up the tank w take over and enjoy the feeding... even if the mb7 wasn't used. id be curious to have a cycling race to see if this system mb7/brightwell additive can beat a dr times AC/bottle bac 2 week cycle which passes an ammonia digestion test *even if all the water is changed out* (indicating surface nitrification, not suspension nitrification from things we dosed into the water)
  15. that's right, dead bacteria are a huge source of natural feed for nitrifiers any strain of aerobic bacteria will bloom underwater/fresh or salt, and then their various metabolic allowances determine how long they thrive in the non native environ when they die, they deaminate/come apart/amino acids-> eventual ammonia as a trace nutrient for the system in question they are right, it w just take longer compared to the driven and measured dr tims method. a wet bucket of red bricks will pass a small ammonia digestion test if you just fill up a home depot bucket with saltwater, keep it topped and circulated and opened (not sealed) and wait several mos underwater adding not a thing. reefers want their cycles fast, so by adding ammonia you'll speed it up greatly. reefkeepers cannot stop a cycle once hydration occurs (not counting meds that may be antibiotic) they only alter the timing to being able to pass an ammonia oxidation verification test. those bottle bac sit in the dark a year with no extra feed, awaiting being dumped into a large hydration network of other bacteria whose life/death cycles are direct feed for the nitrifiers. all kinds of proteins waft into the opened top aquarium or wet bucket...they are trace amounts that degrade into trace ammonia so the process is very slow in the 80s we cycled guppy tanks using nothing. any decent lfs would tell you as a 10 yr old kid: Get a tank, add the epoxy rocks and fake plants and corner bubbler and fill it up with tap water. come back in 30 days Ill sell you some swordtails and gups the chlorine dissipated, the bac and the ammonia got in, and the tiny scum layer after just 30 days submersion was enough to prevent the tank from turning to white stink in 48 hours, which is what happens the first time we bought the fish and the tank together without telling them there was no 30 day delay to stocking-even if we used stress coat on the chlorine water there was no bac mat in place We never used bottle bac or ammonia ever, totally a nineties trend. We simply filled and waited.