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About brandon429

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    Nano Reefer

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    Reefing, drumming, metal, motorcycle, rc fpv uavs, scooby diving, biology

    Why does this man talk about peroxide so much? is he insane? why does he hate api test kits?


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  1. Cycling with Aquaforest Bio S?

    There are many documented cases of them working fine, the lighting we read them in varies so much, the actual test may be ok Im hard on API but they have a place where they're handy. if .25 shows up with api, in cycled rock tanks, that's where we like to ask/set up confirming tests. there's subtle nuances too...shaking reagents. exact filling without variance, expirations. There are many who can wield them correctly no doubt, and they indicate large changes such as a rotting lost fish very well. thank you for that documentation on the working nitrogen cycle, w update good cycling threads w it its very possible the API detected a legit low level initial ammonia not due to animal loss, but due to nutrient upwelling in some manner, it was only the sustained .25 that got me to questioning, it always does. rocks that carry over detritus can release that rot upon repositioning, and API is sensitive enough to detect it there are use threads that show with controlled settings they're ok. we had to develop that big thread below for your very problem- how to deal with seeming low level persistence in the face of rock that w digest full ppm's, and how to look at a tank for the most part and tell its cycle status (when there are good benthics like you've shown) we simply want to have your tank with no detritus, no dead animals for rot (since this type wants the zero ammonia condition) and though API might have found initial spikes, they wont be present after a good cleaning and this rock can be trusted solely off pics and accurate known history for the rock. Our little picture/prediction process got thrown for a loop with the advent of real reef rocks/painted coralline lol in the last year or two. so I ask in much better detail now ramping up to the big prediction the ideal next immediate step is to clean the growths off, hand guide the tank, repeat when needed, and add some zoanthid frags and some snails https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-microbiology-of-reef-tank-cycling.214618/ added you to first post there
  2. Cycling with Aquaforest Bio S?

    I believe that type of substrate shows up dry, in that regard the cycling kit is helpful-it's catching up the substrate faster than just associating them with the rocks will do. Still another detail persists, after a month it will all reach equilibrium anyway. That much loaded live rock can do much, already. we have a neat way to document API issues, if applicable here. If you spike ammonia and get more than .25 oxidation in 24 hours but the system magically stops at the last .25, test issues. Biosystems across the board on google do not all land/stop at .25 after digesting four times the amount just before
  3. Cycling with Aquaforest Bio S?

    It needs to be hand guided though as a separate matter in my opinion After documenting ammonia hunger of it, the bacteria and the algae, we need to clean out that system and leave the substrates open to more coralline. I find by guiding plants out early, no algae wars come about later That's the periphyton layer Santa Monica is always referencing in his ATS posts, that stuff is not part of cycling, cycling is about bacteria and you're complete already. We're testing ammonia only for fun, usually the approach for this kind of rock is opposite of what you've been advised to do with it. It wants a zero ammonia condition. We could take any portion of that rock, clean it, and install it into an instant pico reef along with ten high end mixed frags, it's skip cycle rock. The number one thing that rock doesn't need is more bacteria. It has so much, we'll be removing unneeded excess in the cleaning. You've been sold a cycling kit intended for strictly dry materials. Redundant cycling is also harmless, nbd.
  4. Cycling with Aquaforest Bio S?

    Yes that's cycled rock Agreed let's challenge I'm usually railing against adding ammonia to live rock but if you won't go much past 1ppm, we have a chance to document something neat It's APi reading as best it can imo, the .25 What we're looking for isn't getting to zero, it's any movement at all within 24 hours back to this .25 reading Due to the very highly cured nature of that rock, the algae component will suck dry the ammonia along with bacteria This rock is ammonia hungry, let's prove it. Spiking ammonia to one ppm in the tank won't wipe things out since that rock is loaded with ammonia consumers It's the most non fake totally cured tank rock I've ever seen in fact That level of growth is normal for unguided rock, it retains a bit of detritus and possibly raw ammonia portions depending on state of decay of any organics entangled in the growth. We should clean that off outside the tank and guide this into purple and away from plant color hues. Sure it might mature that way eventually but we find with dedicated had guiding, all tanks comply. Your sandbed needs to be rinsed so clean that it cannot cloud if you grab some and drop it... Is it that clean? A clean restart is ideal here if not. That won't decycle your tank, they don't uncycle.
  5. Cycling with Aquaforest Bio S?

    We can get any tank ammonia ready within 40 days, testing nothing. Handy baseline to consider when multiple testings aren't panning out. 40 day sure cycle no test fill tank / substrate dump in half a bottle of someone's cycling bac add a few drops ammonia based on gallons, can estimate, plenty of fish less cycling threads show drop or drops per gallon circulate the tank for two weeks add rest of bottle bac and few more ammonia drops circulate three weeks change out all water refill with clean. Tank ready, no test.
  6. Cycling with Aquaforest Bio S?

    Tanks using true cured live rock are skip cycle setups, why is this cycling its helpful to know some new tanks don't need to cycle for ammonia control some people buy bare white rock the lfs told them is cured, we can test that claim. Some people buy purple coralline live rock with fanworms and animals crawling on it, nobody needs to test that kind, it's true cured If we are unable to transport rocks between a store and a home without a cycle, then my tank should recycle each time i leave it drained for half an hour, and this includes corals. Nobody should be able to setup giant instant reef tanks at MACNA shows without dr Tim's assistance, or without showing up thirty days early. The standard above is simply rocks to home, typically in a high humidity bag. Rarely are they moved in air exposed Cured live rock has all the bacteria it will ever need. But if it's uncured, cycle away. In our big cycling threads we like to utilize some types of rock that remain cycled no matter where you cured them, they have real coralline on them. I hope yours does maybe it has fanworms stuck to it, pods, or benthic algae growth or hydroids like typical live rock Post pics of this rock if poss
  7. Need help with plate corals

    good calls so far. if it was my plate id wait for an 8 week delay while running this action before evaluating, have you had them two mos or better under this kind of care?
  8. how do you define what a nano or pico tank is?

    i like the distinction that a pico reef can be picked up and moved by hand(s) while completely full with water and all décor, without breaking or being unduly heavy such that a reasonably healthy person can lift and move it. That culls out all 5 and most 3 gallons, leaves your 2 and 1 gallons as picos as a rather subjective way of rating them. my reef weighs about 16 or so pounds all up.
  9. I would have that done all in one day. moving tanks never ever reduces bacteria, if anything it adds to them-temporarily then they go right back to steady-state living for the system at hand. Your key details are to rinse your new sand until it runs clean, cloudless. this doesn't sterilize live sand, rinsing is not antibacterial or it would be much easier to sterilize surfaces in hospitals and labs. There will be nothing to settle with this mode, the larger tank is immediately ready for the current setup. all you are doing is adding more dilution to your setup, harmless. When you move live rock to the new tank, not anything will die off and there will be no cycle. The only risk you have is medications used or not used on the old tank; check that. some interact w reefs (cu I know you knew that) and moving over your current sand unrinsed. rinse your old sand perfectly clear before moving over, and rinse the new sand perfectly clear before adding. if you move no waste over, nothing w cycle. I rinse my sand in tap, then sw, then reinstall when I do big tank cleanings and that's the same method as you are about to do for a tank move. when I clean my tank, its parted out 100% then put back together and skip cycled, hundreds of times now. I would re acclimate fish to new water and use 100% new sw in the tank setup, we don't need the old tank water, rocks bring enough over.
  10. Reefer in Distress, Cycle

    Where is your ammonia coming from In dr Tim's cycling they use liquid ammonium chloride Some use a shrimp, which portion of your doser is ammonia, and how are you getting your system to 1ppm amm? You must add it to get that level perhaps your additive is diluted a bit more, add till your ammonia is 1ppm then wait. Dry cycling is us driving the system to 1ppm by adding ammonia, then bottle bac, then wait a month Nitrite doesn't factor into your cycle measure only ammonia, spike it to 1ppm. It only gets 1 or 2 ppm when we make it that way via addition. At any time you can take a different course if your red Sea setup is testing strangely: Add water to tank and dry substrate Use online calculators and dr Tim's ammonia, make tank water read 1ppm Add half a bottle of someone's cycling bottle bac, doesn't matter which one as long as it's for cycling. Wait two weeks repeat the exact steps above, wait two more weeks. Change out water, begin, cycle guaranteed no testing needed.
  11. what is your quarantine tank setup?

    its impressive to see you quarantining Friendly, that's rare most just add n go. its fun to detail bacterial happenstance because in the end it sets the boundaries we use to care for our tanks. by knowing they're bulletproof, we're free to be free of algae infestation due to the ways we can handle them and not lose filtration abilities, that's the big tie in for me anyway. I see a direct tie between how people view cycling and how they wind up managing aquarium invasions, though the two seem distant or unconnected.
  12. what is your quarantine tank setup?

    picks detrius I would never spell detritus that way in a diatribe
  13. what is your quarantine tank setup?

    once cycled, an aquarium does not downscale back to unable to oxidize if it is kept wet, that's a rule of microbiology. The bacteria do not need our affordances, that we control sterility by feed we add or give is just a notion made up by aquarists. Its true that adding and withholding feed modulates bacterial populations up and down, but they never go away when its withheld, as myriad feed sources exist beyond what we give that's how the bac adapted before we existed, getting what they need without our help. A key factor in how this impacts a cycling regular tank vs a QT is that QT systems are often bare glass and minimal active surface area, whereas a large tank has rocks and filters and interstices that waste and organic feed pockets can reside, so the bac actually don't modulate much at all when we go fallow in those systems in the QT of bare offerings, any setup much less than a filter sponge/surface area might need to be fed to keep the colonies dense if new fish are coming, but this is rare. even a bare basic filter sponge setup that digests 1 ppm ammonia verified after being supported w fish will still do the same test if kept in sw for months w no feed, its because whats left of the downscaling of bac are still entangled within excess surface area needed for the bioload at hand, a filter sponge is a large amnt of surface area relative to size. if your QT tank is a few pots and some pvc pipes then ghost feed it occasionally as it sits fallow. any amnt will work there is no set amnt, any single serving of protein will recycle in that tank for a long time, a couple pinches-good to go. If your QT setup has any type of filtration sponges or media in place, it only needs to run wet and it will retain its filtration abilities as long as it stays wet. you aren't keeping dead gnats and human skin cells and air dander and molds and fungi out of this tank unless its in a positive pressure lab. those are some of the natural foodstuffs bac can use upon breakdown/
  14. Reefer in Distress, Cycle

    It's due to the boosters you are using if I'm not mistaken that system you were dosing is for cycling and involves adding bottle bacteria right? It's possible to cycle a tank adding nothing, filter bacteria are worldwide contaminants along with many other species of bac and those setups may take past 40 days but dry surfaces will cycle without any help at all as that's how we setup freshwater aquaria in the 80s before people sold bottle bac. If we add any form of boosting, even slightly off kilter to instructions, it's 40 days as those processes were going to be well under way before then but the boosts were just the amplifier needed for a predicted compliance date without having to test...due to the tests and relative dates others post in verified ammonia reading cycle threads. For saltwater I would give the true unassisted cycle a bit longer but for your cycle where I see you've dosed ammonia and am thinking some bottle bac, day 40 is the certain ok date across many tanks on some nice sized cycling threads.
  15. Reefer in Distress, Cycle

    brian one heck of a stress relieving way to see your cycle is the only way you will not cycle within 40 days is if you add an antibiotic medication which you wont do that means no matter what you do, what you switch to, if you change water, if you don't change water it will be ready by day 40, 50 if you want to be generous that means no matter what your tests say, ever that means you don't have to test to cycle a reef tank. amazing concept, you can do it off number of days submerged and factoring in known boosts. yours w be ready before 40, but that's universal w cheats in any arrangement, so use that as a base completion date unless your ammonia testing shows otherwise long about week 3 day 40 headache reliever for all cycles. all the testing and meticulous dosing is for trying to beat a 40 day window, if you are in no rush then any form of bacteria you add, and any form of ammonia along the way will make it work fine. you just change out all the water at the end of 40 days and begin reefing lightly with corals and clean up crews. wait to add fish the requisite quarantine time they require, that's another two mos before fish. also, of all your params, only ammonia matters. Your cycle is solely based off number of days underwater and ammonia performance and absolutely not nitrite or nitrate readings. its not that those parameters don't change in a cycle; its that they are requisitely linked to what ammonia does, and number of days underwater, and you don't need to confirm something every single cycle chart online shows. there's not one cycle chart where nitrite doesn't comply by day 40, a key detail in why that date keeps popping up. there's not one cycle chart online where nitrite suddenly rises after day thirty, though API testers report that occurrence always in their cycling posts. We eliminate nitrite and nitrate testing to avoid false positives, you'll have hard enough time getting the ammonia accurate. when you have reached the ammonia performance required and the bare minimum 30 days considering your substrate types, just do a massive water change and refill, it will be ready for a normal start. Don't input fish you haven't quarantined, ever, no matter the temptation.