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brandon429

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About brandon429

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    anecdotes are subtle notes, arranged become a tune

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    http://why are you growing invasions in your tank on purpose

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    Male
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    Tx
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    I try to convince people to unwreck their tanks. we meet at different phases of invasions-in-progress. the psychology of reefing invasion intrigues me, the biology of it is pretty simple.

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  1. UV Sterilizer for IM 25 Lagoon?

    many don't use them, I don't use them on reefs but only bc they don't make them small enough. Id use one as the cheat it was intended to be anywhere I could fit one. for the invaders they cheat burn out of the system, worth it, but not needed. ill never use one on my current pico reef but any other larger ones it would be a cheat Id buy.
  2. Diatoms/Dino

    Hey can you link that I tried to find
  3. Diatom Issue in Established Tank

    you can also just do a rip cleaning where you tank the tank apart and flush out all the 24 mos detritus in the rocks, there is some as current constants in the tank always leave some catch spots. we'd clean out the growths, and be done with them, apparently on 24 mo cycles based on your tank and variables
  4. Is there such a thing as "too many corals"?

    We keep that same loading of corals in a single gallon for years and years...no, never too many corals in my ideal scaping it’s just a looks preference thing. Maritza vase reef has more coral than that in her vase very nice ten gallon there I take issue with the fish in such a small tank not the corals
  5. friends put hands in tank

    that's like requiring signs that say do not touch at the louvre, its for sure a given. a swat on the hand. with a stick.
  6. Diatoms/Dino

    any holding container, paint buckets home depot are nice. do you want to try just hand removing them for a week or so, with bluer lighting, to see if that makes them go away
  7. Diatoms/Dino

    there is one other unspoken benefit from the rinse portion of that thread: a cloudless, fuel-less workable sandbed. right now if you lifted up a grip of that sand and dropped it down, the whole tank would cloud. after that thread, it wont, and that allows you certain freedoms in the future, and loss mitigation controls (my rock stack fell while I was on vacation, only it didn't cloud the whole tank for ex) even if the invader somehow doesn't respond and comes back (but the thread doesn't show that at all) so per that thread, even if you do the work and it comes back (not likely) you have upgraded your tank anyway by having a cloudless, no liability no fuel for at least green hair algae one day sandbed. more invaders are coming, and a cloudless sandbed allows access in a UNIQUE way to guide them right out ha! (because you can work the tank as needed once its cloudless, then it wont recycle, and it provides less direct fuel to these invaders) perhaps the best outcome possible from the thread isn't the invader cure, its the ability to call what a tank will do before you do it, then run a given dive and come out unscathed. one day you might have a really serious invasion, then it w be familiar ground. less hesitation due to practicing now in my opinion. *there are tons of places like algagen that sell recharging kits of pods, detritus eaters and bugs galore, which very well could just eat that stuff, who knows. To put some of them back into a fully cleaned system seems ideal, and a clean start to add more alternate options here. *your sandbed is finer than most, and wont have the same penetration of detritus as most beds will. still, never hurts to clean one if you want. being able to pass a drop test is what matters, even if its just cleaning out silt (which does coincide with diatoms we show) that could really help. most people will not start a sandbed with a rinse out of bacterial fear. in doing so, we keep super high surface area powder silicate as a portion of our sandbed and that may not be helpful at times. to have zero silt sure is helpful, we show. if you have a 2 yr old sandbed with fish above it that is cloudless, then you are the first to run one that clean this whole time. most have some waste pent up, and we remove that waste and the invader all in one pass and put the corals, rock and fish back into totally clean water. I sometimes use Dasani or other drinking water as topoff when im lzy/out of distilled certainly not 0/0 the impact is nothing to my system other than some light diatom/cyano growth on the glass which is wiped off during maintenance.
  8. Diatoms/Dino

    here is one, just to see examples in other people's tanks. we can 100% not lose animals. its a work heavy undertaking, big water changes etc and there's often some simpler single param/adjustment that can make a given non anchored invader go away much simpler...that's why all these varying methods exist, each proponent of a given system had that work for them. in this thread we just group all sandbed invasions as 1. I like them and want to keep or 2. I don't like them and want them gone, then we effect that on any tank that wants the undertaking its a bit of a read, but considering the nature of the work its really handy to see others attempt before yours: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/#post-2681445 if you choose that route, we can document it all here then Ill link you back to that thread. there are incremental ways to assess and possibly remedy it wo the big work, but if you want to just be done with it, that's all we do there all day long.
  9. Diatoms/Dino

    If you want to take an incremental measure before you rip clean, export the invader for a week and see how virulent it is basting mixes the invader around in the tank but if you turn off pumps and use siphon to remove it all out by hand, then Replace the water, we can tell how strong it is by how it comes back due to delay in action, can’t evaulate that after just one or two attempts. Be removing it via siphon, no other cheats after five or so attempts and we can learn more about your invader than with any other means. ID ing it at the cellular level will not determine actions better than what we already use in our sand rinse thread which turns out only cured tanks. your tank is not off, there’s nothing wrong, real reefs produce these growths to feed their invaders, only your own work and export component has been missing, everything I use to be invader free is pure work and no form of coaxing, parameter alteration, or wait. I’m the missing grazer. Its ideal to verify your ro/di water and reinstate zero tds, but we have examples of your invasion from other causes, too white lighting is another, and searching for causes isn’t how we run the thread, it’s only fixes. There are many other ways, a simple uv sterilizer and a hand siphon session would fix it without any work at all but that’s more hardware in my opinion the way to see your tank is a given organism found a niche for a little while. its unanchored, common on reefs, and has direct grazers in nature, so nothing is really off. For it to only be on the sandbed pretty lightly (cross section pic shows a rather clean bed) after no hand guiding outside the tank reflects well on its control-ability in my opinion.
  10. Diatoms/Dino

    One way to correct that is especially fast and thorough. Take the tank apart, rinse the entire sandbed clean and put it all back together skip cycle we have a thread of 20 tanks doing this as examples, all sizes, some with much more delicate coral yours will be fine the other way involves you adding medicine or altering tank parameters that your corals aren’t calling for. The reason I’m invader free for 12 yrs is option 1 option one doesnt need to know what kind of invader you have, it fixes them all
  11. Cycle without ammonia spike?

    another neat aspect of skip cycling is that its tied to how we handle algae and tank invasions in a neat way. By being able to chart what bacteria tolerate before we run an action, we know how deep we're allowed to clean/kill invasions before they takeover. back in the day when procedures were all hesitant, people wouldn't even lift out a rock for brief exposure/hand working out of fear it would kill the bacteria. FF to 2018, we now chart how many number of -days- live rock can stay out of water and still pass an oxidation test to prove its bacteria are alive. this is why recycling of live rock that doesn't require more bacteria set so deep in the hobby...the trip home was viewed as stressful for the bacteria, but for the rare times live rocks produce ammonia vs consume it, its a dead worm or decaying material doing that and not loss of bacteria, given that the rock is alive and not painted.
  12. Cycle without ammonia spike?

    Fury we can see why this was a skip cycle reef now living animals, coloration, pigments from coralline, all came months after nitrifiers were established. stuff can be painted nowadays too, so there are often more than one visual verifier of bacterial presence beyond coralline...surely there are pods or worms or some kind of sponge? what else is there? we use these visual clues in our testless cycling setups. by looking at certain rocks, and checking for verifiers, we can tell if they are cycled or not without testing, and frankly much better than low level ammonia testing that's for sure. your nitrate readings confirm everything so far as well. Yours meets the qualifications of the types of cycles I mentioned above. the reason we don't recycle them, add new rounds of ammonia, is bc the bacteria are already permanently set no matter which aquarium those rocks are moved to. for your type of cycle, you purposefully change a bunch of water, manually keep ammonia zero at the start through that method if required, and begin feeding the system and cleaning it of algae. skip cycle means go, not wait and measure. moving live rocks from a pet store tank to our home never kills the bacteria, it likely is a temporary boost
  13. Tring Getting rid of algae

    Looks good that’s hand guiding yep. Rarely does one event stop it forever after allowed seating in, but it opens real estate back up for coralline and coral to be guided into place. This new shoot is exactly like phase 1 before the rock became challenged a while ago, we can chart any course against it we want. *that a small sprig of algae grows back does not indicate water quality issues, there’s no real reefs that fail to grow algae to feed its grazers. It means water params are correct, and the grazer balances in the tank are still being sought
  14. Cycle without ammonia spike?

    We design cycles all the time to purposefully not have an ammonia spike, say when animals are in tow in some way if you have no animals, dry white rock, you still need to wait about 20-30 days underwater no matter what your readings say, so that surfaces have time to develop filtration abilities before that time the bottle bac we are adding to the water in suspension is doing the work, and that’s not the cycling location we want yet. Post tank pics and we can tell you about ammonia with no readings at all. submersion time is the single most important factor in dry rock cycling, not any form of doser, tester or liquid we may add or withhold or measure. From your tank pics we can tell a lot. When those boosters are used, cycling time speeds up closer to two weeks for dry surfaces. Thirty days is the known safe zone should someone want to go about it with no testing at all. Need to see if you used live or dry rock to answer.
  15. Biocube 29 Side View

    Rare to have that much purple coralline How did you get it so well on the back area? Perfect tank
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