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brandon429

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About brandon429

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    Tx
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    Reefing, drumming, metal, motorcycle, rc fpv uavs, scooby diving, biology

    Why does this man talk about peroxide so much? is he insane? why does he hate api test kits?

    WHY DID HE TYPE A FOUR PAGE RESPONSE TO A SIMPLE QUESTION SINCE 2002

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  1. Liveplant Forums

    Nobody minds here. All boxed science welcome, odd container science too as applicable There's a few different ways to turn that around, I know you want carpeting growth. I'd handle that in two ways if it was given to me 1 redo it as a walstad, put your current substrate back 2 go get a paintball co2 setup, and solenoid control off Amazon, and a timer, and do this right. That liquid you're dosing doesn't count or things would be working. The next step/option Take the next few years running the gambit of retail liquid ferts, which the predicted GBA loves, or learn EI dosing from the web off searches and use real co2 gas. The cheapest you can get for the right gas setup is about 180 all up done right last you forever. The walstad is about as good amazingly, which is why nobody with carpeting growth is running just flourite alone and enjoying things without gas I'm not saying that liquid co2 didn't work, I'm saying as a pattern you want options one or two which grow everything. As I turn to my right I see this three gallon nano globe below. One day my great great grandchildren will post that and it will be the same. Flourite is a specific component of its sandbed, because it has the rare character of never breaking down into mud, ever. It holds spaces open that shrimp poop continually refresh, forever in cycle. Power outages have no effect on it no matter how extended within reason... Everyday is a power outage. Open the widow shades if light goes out. Get some sunlight on your setup if you can angle it in such a way This is walstad to the nth degree, the sandbed is about a foot deep and is self regenerating regarding nutrients. It's my most stable system, unheated uncirculated grows all plants submerged and emersed. I do nothing it uses no gas it's hands off. Occasional feed and topoff, about 200 cherry shrimp and juveniles Flourite is a part of the bed not the full Monty, secret. Your bed has no organics, the bottom of mine would smell like a whale's armpit but it's isolated by design. To stop gha, use correct gas or walstad and the new leaves won't have it in time.
  2. Liveplant Forums

    I have used fluorite since 1996 continually I know it like the back of my hand, it needs enrichment and there's an easy trick try to zip a pic real quick lemme see which parts are in challenge. I have a 14 yr old planted tank right now that uses fluorite, is enriched, and will outlive multiple generations of humans without any messing with the sandbed. its fluorite + stuff, not fluorite alone or with hard coated grains. specific enrichment makes fluorite into rock n roll. my fluorite bed is about 13 inches deep and supports about 12 feet of plant growth right out the top of the bowl pressing into my ceiling. I use no co2 gas, but co2 is def in there like mad or the plants wouldn't be that big. the enrichment is the co2 source, special combo of organics at the bottom of the substrate. for me, that special something is fish crap heh but others used organic potting mix at the bottom layers and did just fine without actual co2 injections, it was coming from the bottom up via bacterial decay and some time. Flourite itself is too inert to work without an organic component, and, spiking ferts to the water in makeup for that is recipe for yellowed leaves blue green invasions and black beard algae. all that stuff reverses when the bed is the fertilizer but is isolated from the water column.
  3. Liveplant Forums

    plantedtank.net is fine but I bet we could fix up that bad boy show me a dirt capped Walstad system that isn't growing mad plants or I might show you a system where the substrate and CO2 balance is the issue, rarely the ferts or levels of params pics man!!
  4. If it’s beaten that’s great and yep that’s sharp reef very nice. That’s using the modern methods they use on larger tanks, nutrient boosting vs sequestration that’s a good reinforcement of options if someone prefers to keep the sandbed biology in tact. You got our first set of before n afters nice work and doc
  5. Ajm we gotta see after pics or at least earn them right here our Bros at r2r are like bring it then, little tankers. First prediction made from pics: if we reached in and grabbed a handfull of that sand, and dropped it down, it would cloud the whole tank with dinoflagellate food. Did ya reverse that
  6. Well said for sure the first time I heard of or saw dinos was about 2005 at a pet store I never ever saw them in the 90s makes me wonder how the heck the hobby was going for nearly 15 yrs ish before that without em we must’ve sourced em from some strange biome out there and then / poof hobby is changed my bestie Maritza the vase reef is a non bed rinser with total success and no dinos or t rexes in the tank they ask why I try to get people to tap rinse the beds they built up over time even without a prob, I’ve found an answer that acknowledges success with the alternative as well as my own detritus ocd...control of variables. It’s not that I think true DSB setups are bad, it’s that theyre open to variation. Varying people and tanks and lighting systems and vector details all add up to varying degrees of invasion but preventative rinsers across twenty examples (the sand rinse thread) have none no matter the details. An invader can’t adapt to physical force if my own home variations allowed for detritus storage and no cyano I’d be doing less work... and the bed would be a visual antbed of success with entertaining worms and pods etc but my long term DSB studies (before I was a rinser, we all start with hands off) simply showed nice colored coralline, a couple worms lol, and tons of cloud by keeping that out I simply have no chance of invasion, mass potentiation etc. I’m willing to trade the work to ensure a bowl this old doesn’t act up even my current system will allow me to stop rinsing for years I’d predict but I can’t risk it, 12 yrs is too established to risk and I simply rinse to hedge my safety bets since we know bare bottom aquariums still grow coral fine, a rinsed bed has the same impact as no bed. For sure being limited to one gallon total volume changes things, no way to plumb a diverse refugium agreed on your diversity clues and Paul B says the same thing about his system and clearly he is Dino and ich free following none of the consistent tank care norms i find that a well behaved non rinse system is the ideal, but a rinsed system can be forced into compliance without fail for the continually unlucky ~
  7. I’d feel icky if we don’t see the after pics of a clean system and those are really good before pics. It was the sustained, unbeatable invasions taking months with hardly a win i was hoping to draw a line in the sand around did you beat the invasion
  8. I remember not all of them were slam dunk one weekend fixes. our P thread was worked a few good pages with something we felt were dinos off standard tank pics (cheap Amazon scopes not being used back then, we never got scope pics at 100x) and the nanos were biggish too, say around 30+ gals so there was always that partial action tendency Rip cleaning even a fifteen gallon over and over isn't easy compared to today's 1-2 gals the UV gave us a little help/edge And the truth is, it's hard to get updates continually for post analysis due to various reasons it's been interesting to see how many posted sandbed invasions here are not typically something we lose tanks over.
  9. The Mad Science Experiment

    Doesn’t look 1.5 I forgot about that glass amplification effect right! So glad to see your setup I bet some aquascapers tweezers should be on her Christmas stocking list for ya salinity looks to be solid with that stopper how did you vent the pressure is there a little vent outlet somewhere
  10. The Mad Science Experiment

    I cant sleep well until the former coral that made up that base rock can be named. calices are too big for porites, my vote was some type of oxyopora what does the quorum say on that skeletal ID yes that pico is dope! but when I saw that skeleton rock I felt like an inferior man not being able to id it. I can walk taller when I know accurate ID is in the back pocket. I would have said siderastrea but those are typically circular and that thing was a log in its day a hundred years ago ish.
  11. agreed and Paul B would agree w that too, Its the chief reason he's claiming to be immune to fish diseases and dinos without any form of support. also agreed on the reset date/age claims based around rip cleanings I ran reefbowl 1 like that, only wc and nothing deep, and lost it to red gelidium. never again / burn me once / now I go peroxide crazy forever type of thing. I now do only what causes coral mass and all else goes to the wayside. if my reef is only 2 weeks old (last date of rip cleaning) Im ok with that now my pride only centers around making the 8 lb brain coral rock into a 9 pounder. I can never lose that much money and time again, RB1 was like 4 when I lost it/dang it/I listened to the hands off water tinkering options back then.
  12. close tracking in that big thread shows how passionate they are about actually dosing nutrients to the system, N and P, to boost the competitors which will destroy the dinos the large tankers who cannot rip clean simply must find another route, this could be considered a fair plague on large tankers over the last few years. as these various threads build and we catch/watch for trends, im simply seeing that nano reefers don't post enduring challenges with them very often, we had a couple rascals from PolarCOllision in the big peroxide thread I recall (UV helped) but its the big tankers that literally require 200 pages of mulling options to gain somewhat of a compliance being aggressive cleaners seems to be the main difference imo, its what Id do if I ever saw the dreaded brown bubbles. Being full up on corals helps; by not continually reintroducing a plague one can expect to remain dino free regardless of lighting changes or sandbed storms or nutrient profiles. the time it takes for us to quit adding frags is closely associated with the various invaders we see imo
  13. Agree one hundred percent. This is now linked here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/page-81 Over the next year, let's compare and contrast these threads. Prediction: in one year nano reefs are still dino free, the occasional tank needs substrate cleaning to win, repeated a few times and no recurring patterns That's not being mean, and no I don't want to put a shot of proro in my reef to test my own medicine heh, it's an analysis of the last five years regarding dino invasions-why would the next twelve mos be different Something shocking exists in the care habits between these two groups of reefers who deal mainly in volume differences but source their dinos from the same random fish stores and trades I do think our nanos get dinos occasionally by import It's just they're unwelcomed better, we're not hands off. Cycles are for bacteria, not purposefully seeding our tanks with successions of invaders yes yes.
  14. This post might inevitably bring out a challenge that needs beating so we can continue that standard, post em if you got em. We'll clean the sandbed, rinse the rocks, and begin the retake.
  15. Check any other large tank forum...reefcentral, r2r, all have constant posts and pics of dino invasions that cause entire tanks to be taken down and lost Three hundred pages of concerns, we've none. Prorocentrum Ostreopsis et al Probs for large reef forums Nano reef forums do not show same statistics.... Why do you think? Check our picos forum here, I think that's even better references due to zero issues for the life of the whole forum Ergo, the smaller the reef the better we control invasions? Gimme your musings pls. People with large, stable tanks need your collective help
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