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About brandon429

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    Reefing, drumming, metal, motorcycle, rc fpv uavs, scooby diving, biology

    Why does this man talk about peroxide so much? is he insane? why does he hate api test kits?


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  1. Still having nutrient issues!

    Scorch thank you its been a while since we had before and after tank fixes. I vote for direct and immediate restoration of the whole tank in one move. top to bottom and new water. I had a lot to say on the matter due to being busy at reef2reef fixing up algae tanks, the nanos have it easy. the large tankers who can't fully access have it rough. in my opinion even before pics here the tank should be cleaned top to bottom and made detritus free if it isn't already. take off any GFO or nutrient sequestration other than those blocks above, they're fine and good. Take each rock out of the tank and work surgery using a knife to scrape off 100% of the target, working around sensitives and not scraping them-surgery on a towel on the counter. apply peroxide as the rinse each time, this is no bandaid its specific algae rasping + algae killer reassemble your entire reef with zero cloud sandbed if applic, live rock that has been rinsed in saltwater externally to clean out any detritus stores + target rasped with a knifetip to remove the anchors for all algae. scraped like a dentist that's a renewed reef tank, charged and fresh ORP its a CPR refreshment move, not a harming move. I have done countless ones. the peroxide doesn't touch nontargets in this way, and all your corals can handle exposure just fine I drain my whole reef for 25 minutes routinely and that's with brittle stars in tow x many reassemble a perfectly skip cycled reef and guide the algae out that way, disband all gfo and other nutrient binders just my opinion on how I could collect after pics of your challenge. feed the tank a bunch of cyclopeeze and change the water a lot for three months sustained, even though you've never had to do that before and sustain it. continue three mos even when it seems fixed initially then back to normal, you just hand guided an obligate hitchhiker out of your reef and any other method is not clenching the final win by 8 pm today. it was feeding, your coloration problem it was forced hand guiding, regardless of what pics show as the offender it was detritus removal, that which you are having to add GFO to offset, or quite the high fish bioload pending pics if in three months your tank is not the best its ever been on that kind of feeding and water change regimen, GFO it up heh regardless of what the full tank shot pic w show, that's certainly the fix. Lastly, to make the case for the rip clean + skip cycle reset, there is no other ideal condition you could apply an alternate move to. There is no form of anti algae action that works better leaving a display tank invaded. Nearly all alternate actions to the above are what we should be doing to prevent algae, not remove it, and any form of action on a forced-clean tank is much more likely to work than having to both kill off the algae + prevent it part of the hidden trick about forced manual removal is this is what the ocean does with parrotfish and turtles, and, algae are self-feeding masses they catch and hold local wastes for breakdown, out of range of your gfo stripping it only catches what the algae does not upon breakdown of detritus within the tufts. attacking it directly is directly winning B
  2. In tank peroxide for GHA

    the threads show only sporadic compliance using it against cyano what doesn't show sporadic compliance on cyano is the sand rinse thread, I claim we can beat it with only tank cleaning and no meds. what it does to items in an aquarium vs a test beaker has been covered extensively we didn't get stat significant cyano cures with it early on, peroxide's most receptive target thankfully is good ole gha
  3. you also posted another bacterial boundary passed as well. there are online posts that say they'll (filtration bac) die at that temp but we already knew they would not
  4. In tank peroxide for GHA

    even though im fully biased peroxide is the most influential reefing tool ive ever been shown in the history of my aquarium keeping far beyond any hardware arrangement possible. its #1 that's not saying one day there wont be something better, but as Subsea stated its mechanism isn't like an antibiotic where resistances build up. Things are either metabolically sensitive to it or they're not, and, what is sensitive is not changing over time in the constant tank posts we monitor for peroxide use. It has a niche for the hobby that will never be filled, although overall water-based treatments are ideal because they rquire no work and the industry will likely end up solving our invasion issues that way eventually. I simply like it because the sensitives are so predictable, that off a single tank pic we can tell if its safe to run I spent most of my time in the peroxide threads trying to elicit surgical type actions, and as we see the majority went with the 1:10 dosed to the tank water, and still wiped out the algea yes Clown79 I believe that worked. it made for a fun dynamic in the threads, regular GHA is highly highly sensitive to peroxide such that in tank treatments are prob fine. It was the meaner bryopsis threads that brought us into the era of rasping and in support of fluconazole, it came about as a powerful water treatment option. I personally don't use 3% peroxide for much, Im on straight 35% or diluted versions of that for the limited times I use it. Right now at lunch break Im buying some new 35%, my LFS changed up their water delivery regimen and Im having a notable outbreak of green micro algae on my glass, w be hard to remove otherwise but with a wet paper towel of 35%/soak for 1 min, it w come off like butter peroxide is like a chainsaw that fits in between molecules we want it to im putting 35% inside a one gallon reef as a drain and treat run, though its strong we have ways to really use it well
  5. that's even better, and Im sorry I assumed you were rolling without the good stuff Id prefer salifert in this case. api dominates market 10:1 I took a shot low heh we really, accurately want to know what the nitrate is from a hobby test kit in a reef that wont be wrecked with algae when you get there, but could be, if we just remove grazers or kill off coral and open up any vital substrate. Somehow, algae potentiate always and they either get a chance to settle or not I really want to see what nutrient conditions set those conditions. post gold is coming up thank you I bet that water tests darn clean, cannot wait to see. The only time Ive ever seen comparing info was from a Gentleman off reefcentral living near NY who tested and actually found unregisterable nitrate in areas we'd assume have quite the human runoff. data from a real reef is just great the slow repeating patterns from a million algae battles seem to indicate algae can adapt to the cleanest possible water conditions, it'd be neat to get a GBR stamp on that take or a total disconfirmation.
  6. please please please and then please. take api test kits with you, ammonia, ca, alk, the works, run em and please pm or post. I will post riff off that for the next decade. I have been asking to see what hobby test kits show regarding real reefs for so dang long here is the pre statement. Since Great barrier reef can grow algae if we just remove the grazers, Im expecting that to be some mighty good nitrate water per API, and, some mighty high phosphate, say 2x normal allotments. if those waters test api low, and we know algae w still grow without the grazers, then that w be handy info for the next decade as carried over to the wars we do in our little tanks. cannot wait to see hypoth null or fulfilled thank you
  7. to clear up this cycle, you could also stop testing altogether and just be done in a month. Once you dose ammonia and bottle bac in any decent combo, doesn't have to be exact, once the system sets in water like that for 30 days you can then do a complete water change to new water and put in some corals and clean up crew, they'll be supported. no testing is required to confirm any parameter of that statement, its the rush to beat 30 days that requires testing. fish quarantine takes 76 days, after this first 30. you add your corals and such, then it goes fallow for 76 days while the fish you bought/get come from quarantine. its true you can test ammonia to see how much it takes to run the 1 or 2 ppm, but online dosers going only off volume of tank and strength of AC % will tell that as well.
  8. Live Rock, is it Dead?

    If, after rehydrating at proper salinities the rock begins to emit it's own ammonia without help, then it withheld lots of organics as it set and we'll need to do rock curing for a while to get it all back out A handy trick: After a week put back into reef water, take out a rock sample and break in it half with a hammer whack Smell and see the insides, compare that to any pro or con ammonia readings to discern a biological status for the rock. Per pics it's a lucky amazing find with nothing to do other than a quick digest test then some zoanthids
  9. Live Rock, is it Dead?

    It is likely not dead, run a 1ppm ammonia spike definitive test to see, can't wait to see results Extreme and sustained salinity changes can -change the strain of nitrifiers at work- such that an oxidation test in reef water doesn't work... The test will intricate whichever is at work Use liquid ammonia and the online dosing charts to get water up to one ppm Then test n post in 24 hours If the rock was kept anywhere near reef salinity, it did not have to be fed. The slow starvation and death of all the former life fuels bac from now till forever if simply kept wet. If it was allowed to go to a super high salinity it may very well have no action at your current salinity until things kick in in about 3 weeks. oxidation test
  10. Water Changes?

    All good info. Right now I could stop water changing I bet for three months straight and have only some cruddy glass to clean Not any on the live rocks 100% coralline in layers, that part is bio rejecting So anyone telling you that needs to custom tailor it to your particular tank reef roid Aged purple tanks handle cruise control better than bright white new ones, low diversity new systems. They should inquire about the age of your tank. They should require at least a fts before being general. Me calling them out so harshly lol isn't nice I just meant they're giving you niche information which absolutely works in some situations Monthly water changes do not work best in pico reefs for example, to get a group of twenty of them aged out to five years, for example so right off the bat they should get your gallons. they're not wrong in implying systems can be guided into a very soft access mode, but I'd never use it. My tank gets feed/water change as a deca teston roid cycle for twelve years straight. I could go slower, but this is fun it's making frags constantly. what the picos forum does= consistent reference point for tank commanders. The jars do what they're told to do and we spend the rest of the time trying to sell big tankers on the notion Those tanks of the month, nats bowl, Maritza, they're busy bodies Feed and change Feed and change Chip problematic orange neon sps growth off the glass hoping it will not take over. They use weekly full changes + spot feeding to support three times better growth than most tanks will deliver, this is just to illustrate how oppositely some approach the game, to point out the variation and options. The number one reason I feed and change is because it produces the opposite of coral problems threads. we don't have to worry about GFo and filtration when busy mode is selected. All due to the CPR of feed change, feed change That too is just another niche better suited for smaller tanks. it is been discovered in the Pico Reef forum and documented that the parameter shifts involving full water changes really don't hurt Coral systems whatsoever. It doesn't matter in our systems if calcium and magnesium and core ions drift down weekly, then are brought right back up to full with the water change. All the alk shift worries posted in threads for sps, see if anyone in the pico forum is having trouble Something has to account for the sheer lack of problem posts in the picos forum it's like a decade old now and we aren't really dosing two part or any ion supports for all that sps thank Maritza for finding that out.
  11. Water Changes?

    None of that is true. It’s the opposite of what they said there is no set time as different people use different filtration techniques or algae systems that change water replacement needs some use no filters. In the pico reefs forum, you’ll see we have keepers doing 100% full water changes as often as they like. If you did 100% wc everyday the corals would grow better, not worse, because you could feed them so well due to mass export you are are going to have issues more likely with less water changes vs too many as a nano reef ages
  12. Cloudy aquarium water

    you have the option of changing 100% of the water any time you want to. ive done about ten thousand of them
  13. nice nice for sure. one tech challenge Im interested in is hydroid prevention and how substrates are prepped for that with a reefing origin I do not keep any seahorses and nowadays hydroids may not matter. for sure 100% they were claimed to be the reason we couldn't use reefing material around zosterae horses just a few years ago, panacur was required and a strict nonimport regimen was claimed to be required including all substrate. I’m only mentioning this bc it seemed to set a boundary in years past, pico reefs are certainly about expanding boundaries ironically. that’s a fantastic looking pico setup for sure
  14. Preferred Live Rock vendors?

    Nice call. The bacteria are the main goal and those are universally complete with any form of live rock we get. In fact a neat test thread is coming up where a gentleman left his live rock in the air for two days. Non kill of bac predicted, we'll see soon For you to receive less benthic items is best unless they're rare things That old macro you can add anytime agreed If live rock was shipped to me my number one request would be coralline diversity. Bulletproof travelers too. Low on sponges and plant life, I'll put the ones selected from my tank there in time. There is no limit to water change frequency on the types of rocks reviewed in this thread. In my opinion the complete summary of soft cycling as it applies here is that we want the zero ammonia condition because the bacteria require no help in this matter, they'll transfer fine. We want to interrupt a loss cascade of ammonia, this is anti ammonia rock, vs dry rock cycling which needs feed and bottle bac dosing to assist the bacteria to meet someone's cycling deadline. Totally opposite modes, due to benthic life in tow we are paying extra for, and trying to keep alive. Any full water change is a cpr stroke. Do many Even when the rock is done curing if it needed to; the big water changes follow your blast feeding which meets the protein demands of the live rock organisms we just paid extra for Every aspect of the live rock in this thread wants the low ammonia well fed well exported condition and to start like a racehorse in the clean water setting. They're usually insta ready too to the dismay of old schoolers Non cycle rock is usually what TBS ships we enjoy studying their business model in skip cycle threads. I'll link this thread too to a good one a tank approaches the chance of long term support of all that fancy benthic life if the feeding and export work begin and are in place when it arrives Even if the rock does cure down, lose heterogeneity over time as it would in most nanos, the water changes export some of the nutrient helping hedge any algae battles. Then things smooth out in time and it's hands off perfect color rock others are waiting decades to attain Subsea that's amazing
  15. 1 gal nano questions

    Tyler glad to see you are still inquiring I wasn’t sure if yours would be just a single post on the matter. What they said is right, it’s not needed and the few examples you can find on the web of gallon reefs of any decent age dont use kalk thats not to say you couldn’t drip one drop a day into a nano, but we could also just drop in one drop of milk per day into a pico as well. Kalk isn’t associated with pico success on any known examples, and, if there are some that I didn’t know about, the kalk can be instantly stopped and the nano proceeds on my lawn mower doesn’t need a turbo inductor for the same rationale heh! google this person Maritza the vase reef do what they do post pics of the stuff you have so far