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About brandon429

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    Reefing, drumming, metal, motorcycle, rc fpv uavs, scooby diving, biology

    Why does this man talk about peroxide so much? is he insane? why does he hate api test kits?

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  1. that is neat to see ya'll! excellent attire you should offer a pro membership to anyone willing to wrap their car in a banner and drive around as a rolling cool car.
  2. nice to have a peroxide update from jlscrug, reminds me of the good old days. Todays mix of dosers and medicines to combat algae are adding options to the market...interestingly, they aren't a fell swoop for each tank and its nice to have well-studied good old peroxide as a standby, or combo run etc.
  3. hey that is great info, linked to the p threads both here and at R2R to add to the catalog. Its been awhile since we've had peroxide updates, alternate dosers are hitting the market that seem to work well for the same invaders. Thanks for the input though our threads were running a bit slow nowadays
  4. $100 at my lfs or better, maybe 120xx.
  5. that is bonkers nice
  6. I buy them from lfs to put in my tank
  7. the top three invaders that would cause me to take harsh surgical action due to invasion risk valonia bryopsis invasive dino species all else is easy. cyano and diatoms are so easy to beat in a nano reef =not a concern.
  8. Im so happy about this finding, that reference thread from RTR has lots of examples of worse tank fixes this stuff looks great.
  9. Hammer On your coral dips, remember theres never a reason to contact peroxide to corals, not ever. Every instance in a nano where you need peroxide can be applied precisely to the location not including the coral flesh, this w cut down on stress massively. I know that's late info now, but in the future it'll help. I use 35% all in my bowl in this way, contacted to the corals it would melt some of them but with a precision dropper and a metal scraping tool, I do surgery around new frag plugs in the tank and never lose stuff the tank is drained of water so that each area is accessed in the air. then a partial fill to catch all the runoff, then a drain, then refill with clean water. some corals do come in brief contact down below but its nominal dilution and quickly removed.
  10. these animals are among the most sensitive bioindicators we have in a tank because of their motility. one can gauge changes in ammonia levels, ph, oxygen, and overall funk via these micro ophiuroides.
  11. micro brittle stars have saved my tank from doom. when they all migrated to the top within 1/2 an hour, I knew the change water I put in must have something wrong with it and it sure did, it was totally rotten. replaced w good water, save tank.
  12. I disagree Burt He's saying to use marinepure because live rock makes nitrate, not consumes it, as the old material said. SD has a good call. we are doing that as we speak in my town, lr+mp to handle the nitrate. removing sandbeds etc the old info about lr consuming nitrate was wrong for 90% of the tank feeding population. its not that water changes wont export the no3, but what we're seeing with marinepure additions is it makes the system run like live rock was supposed to do in 1998. taken in from the water and de gassed
  13. Im with HM so far, natural diurnal polyp changes vs any real problem. if they look like that after 6 hours lights on, problem.
  14. That is excellent documentation of a stressful situation I can see. It's no celebration that someone's $ and animal menagerie are under stress but for science purposes those photos and measures are cycle thread important It's really helpful for others to see I'm glad you posted it. The filter bacteria will not die from a final rinse clean do over, and that is the cpr for the tank. A full export and rinse and cleaning all in one pass. In all our threads I've never seen a picture of detritus-localized ammonia pocketing and that above is it. Your tank will show the ability to stop leaking ammonia quickly as soon as all detritus is removed We get a protein density hint about that detritus loading by your high nitrate measure It's ironic that more access/cleaning would be the mode 8/10 would not address it other than top cleaning out of concern of another cycle, they'd deal with the nitrates via carbon dosing or ATS installs I'd use a light brush and brush off all rock accumulation outside tank in clean saltwater Full sand rinse as you said Final rinse in sw, then set up all clean zero silting it will arrest the cycle as the true cure for the condition.
  15. Snow thank you for posting we need cpr for your setup. In my opinion we need action while most would consider inaction the safest mode, we should arrest the ammonia portion of the event and the other two params won't matter immediately. Can you post us a current tank pic Can you get some prime to add to the water? If you have access to a full water change matching temp and salinity of the current water that's the best bet in my opinion but we need to see a full tank shot if possible I'm thinking the new setup already has rinsed sand such that it won't need reworked Any debris that got back in the tank should just collect on top and be accessible...the full water change is what I would do and prime can be used if that's not available for quick neutralization of ammonia. It takes quite a big store of wastes to cycle a tank I'm hoping the tank pics will show critical details. A recycle always associates with waste stores so we like to isolate those waste stores in these swaps where possible