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About brandon429

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    Reefing, drumming, metal, motorcycle, rc fpv uavs, scooby diving, biology

    Why does this man talk about peroxide so much? is he insane? why does he hate api test kits?


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  1. Tank switch

    https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/#post-2681445 linking that just so you can see others outcomes after switch. Clown is right if you move over partial waste, low level rinsing out of concern for bac, that actually risks the mini cycle, its all in the mud waste. on first page of that link, look how clean my sand rinses using simple tap water. I then flush it out lastly with salt, then put the tank back together and in your tank you are moving to a new set of glass. if you power wash knowing rinsing cannot remove bacteria, then you're free to be waste free. The key is taking out sensitive animals and corals first, put them in a calm holding container off to the side. be rough with the sandbed, replace or rinse it all out, then set back up in your new tank. it will only recycle if you leave waste in there somehow. no waste, no recycle. pls document journey we'll add to that thread.
  2. Red Algae Everywhere.

    We would have this tank cured quickly in the picos forum Notice how not one tank there has cyano invasions, not one It's because in invasions we treat the whole tank with action, not the invader. We would take the tank apart, clean out rocks of detritus, rinse the entire sandbed all at once, then skip cycle reinstall everything on top of pristine sand. The counter offer is waiting weeks, buying dosers and waiting/hoping options, but no actual cure date. The cure date for the rip cleaning option is as soon as the cleaning is done Something unique is going on with the little tanks when all of them are invasion free vs large tanks where the majority run into some type of persistent invasion challenge... The difference is we do not keep invaders in the tank, they're forced out using nothing other than force. Once the stuff is hand guided out a few times it'll stop
  3. The Rope's Pico (jar)

    you could easily demonstrate an invasion free setup here. I never did that, I demo'd the recovery from the invasion lol. farm not I farmed red mushrooms/bad when there's 200 inside a pico. those diatoms you wiped, all normal for this phase in reefing. Doesn't indicate bad anything, indicates rock that is reflective of strong light, some early nutrients from sand and rocks all coming together with the right natural contamination modes for that organism, you wiped it out regardless of etiology. It doesn't matter why anything pops up in our tanks, it only matters we can leave them in place or not. Turns out the key to having an invasion free tank all along was simply willing that action, such as see a spoon, pick up a spoon type of action. we've spent our decades as a hobby trying to move the spoon any possible way other than touching it. To those who never have to clean, kudos on ideal balance attained. Ours looks just as good, work varies. outcomes wont just don't elbow it heh anyone who studies the last two decades of the reefing hobby will see that our boundaries have been allotted: you set up a tank as best you can, best college effort possible, you do not touch it, you react and hopefully wind up clean at the end and full of coral -not good enough- half the tanks are algae ridden by month 12 in that approach. too much loss % 2017: kill anything you don't want in the tank you will never be invaded case closed. no apologies to the killed organism. oftentimes, the invader itself isn't as bad as coincidental invasions that can set in, right alongside or on top of, the prime invader all because we weren't going to touch a certain spot. keep an eye out in the algae challenge threads you read in big tanks across forums, you'll see dual invasions. cyano -and-some hair algae, intermixed. When I see that, I see lack of grazers as the cause, but I also see my arm and hand which make the best grazers along with some cheat to boost things. Its not about natural or unnatural, its about take a chance or don't. Pico reef cleaning tends to be the whole tank, all at once, not just a target spot. I can tell your tank is clean top to bottom its sharp./ we force tanks to grow coral and accept no alternate outcomes, you are on that path its sharp tank!
  4. The Rope's Pico (jar)

    agreed all this is sharp. its clean, guided jar farming of the high order. that crab looks different than the ones we have access to they usually had fan claws its neat looking not sure of species. I would keep one too
  5. Ammonia creeping and nitrates aswell...

    in this specific case .25 means zero, for sure. they will not need to hold anything, a simple full water change would fix any issues, were they not already zero and now part of the classic .25 search returns. There is no biological mechanism that allows a live rock system to degrade all but .25 of a given bioload well past 24 hours after the initial insult was discovered, and removed. yours is going on days, this is classic API headache. google shows how many times this occurs and will keep happening. I noticed earlier some nitrate readings were posted where we were discussing ammonia can you post only the ammonia readings as updates, the two conflicting API ammonia tests side by side with just an ammonia reference card nitrate and nitrite do not help in cycling, they cause confusion. only ammonia oxidation matters in cycling, the other two are directly universally tied and not possible to be untied to what ammonia does within a given 24 hour set. what nitrate measures does not impact a cycle, there are biological reasons it can be zero or X number tank to tank, only ammonia matters and that narrows down the scope of test misleading when dealing with API, a sustained .25 means zero. A peak of .25 and then a lucky true zero reading is different set of events. Those are the good API tests, where any 3 side by side show the same results.
  6. Ammonia creeping and nitrates aswell...

    nice it will also help to know that nitrite testing is not required in reefing. too long to post why but is on google, and it can help here since we are dealing with unverified testing that's one less param to deal with. nitrite does not matter, the ammonia that comes before is what we manage. the chances of you having a system that can oxidize all the waste from those fishes and leave only a tail-end unoxidized, reading .25 which is the subject of no less than five thousand google search returns on API issues, is .5% even though your tank is new that live rock is live, look at the coralline and coloration. the bacteria it had initially is the same amnts it w have in ten months. what makes this a great analysis thread is the early tank; that helps to jump on the ammonia bandwagon for sure what goes against it is that this bioload isn't measuring .5 or .25 in total each 24 hours its several times that, and if the tests are right, then supposedly the system can only process 90% of the bioload but not the remaining .25 day after day also the initial death spike was likely valid...but now that its removed, no more ammonia. can't wait to see how this pans out
  7. Ammonia creeping and nitrates aswell...

    Muraki that's interesting to know about the API. I get that a lot in posts. others seem to be able to control them fully, whats up with Api in your view true persistent free ammonia here at .5 would register as fish gill fluttering and stress. agreed a death in the tank can make a spike, so I can't wait to see numbers after the wc's and a couple days. please post pics of the actual readings Scorch and vials/card compares here so we can see drift on readings if any
  8. that's the ideal situation, and there are some tanks who are able to be more hands off if that cuc will not stand around idly at least we know its easy to force the tank back into compliance in about an hour if they quit working.
  9. Will H2O2 kill pods and phytoplankton?

    in our peroxide threads we do multi pages where we talked people out of dosing the tank 1:10, even though that's a good dose when water dosing is indicated. for greenwater invasions, or if someone wants to try and battle dinoflagellates perhaps but for any algae, we get better results alt ways what is the reason we are dosing water vs directly attacking a target, not through the water or as a dip, but simply spot on targeting outside the tank or with a drained tank to access the target completely (and in essence apply a fraction of the original amnt of peroxide with ten times better outcome due to nondilution 1:10) the water changes we do are hard on phytoplankton, the natural reserves of phyto don't really help much at all since they vary tank to tank, yet all nanos will grow coral under the right lights with a few basic steps. Any added phyto solutions can be just timed around dosing if fancy live ones are being used.
  10. Swapping out portions of sand

    no form of peroxide use will affect a cycle or an established tank, if anything it will boost them because 3% is not lethal after the dilutions we run, and it boosts oxygen to bacteria who live off oxygen. Where peroxide can kill is if you put bacterial cells into 3% straight peroxide, not tank water, then wait a while. Ours application approach is the opposite-its trace level peroxide added to rocks or diluted into a tank a thousandfold, nonlethal. Tanks that cannot remove rocks can simply drain down to the needed levels. dosing peroxide to the water may work, but that contacts coral flesh where the algae is not so we like to spot apply it to target, out of water, so that only the target is contacted we even have massive overdose situations where ammonia didn't spike/bacterial death occurred, peroxide does not harm our bacteria though it says antimicrobial on the bottle #irony if someone takes 1 day of a 10 day course of antibiotics, how many infections will that kill? Whether the gha goes away without indirect contact is the key game everyone plays. Those advising to just kill it already played the game, came full circle. You don't have an algae prob because of nutrients, you have one because of no grazers and I don't mean just snails from a website, grazing in the ocean involves fish and turtles to be in balance. we kill algae such that nothing else is needed. if someone wants to farm it on purpose and opt for natural methods, that's ok too, but the outcomes vary.
  11. that rock is bone white. too new, it literally invites all kinds of alternating generations, that's only the first. When solid coralline in ten yrs, it will reject most invasions and they'll locate to places not made of coral flesh or coralline...the hand guiding you have to do to guide your rocks into compliance involves direct physical action, not just water works and nutrients. We guide tanks like that into solid purple not ever using any nitrate controls above clean sand and clean water commonly, occasionally we remove the rocks and rinse all that off outside the tank reopening the real estate for the intended. Sometimes it works to just leave them alone to alternate, but soon you'll hit the algae phase its already starting and that can lead to months of concern. get clean now, by hand, since we didn't start with live rock its a different maturation procedure.
  12. Microbacter7 = ammonia + stuff?

    http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2014/8/review i think this is it I searched for an hour under reefbuilders now exhausted lol see if this ties into your ammonia + bac you are measuring they should be producing nitrate too based on what I'm seeing
  13. 0.5 gallon

    Good job!
  14. Cycling in a bucket

    not only can you, its better than cycling in a normal tank. the reason why is full access to the smaller water volume. your final water change/easy adding ammonia drops and bac to five gallons vs 25, easier. all good.
  15. Ammonia processing rate of established tank?

    Edit on my microbe testing prof says no thirty year old samples of anything allowed to be brought in externally by students, safety issue. So, back on the hunt if I google HPC testing of water, there's a few places online one can ship samples too, might try that