teenyreef Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I really like my Finnex 50w heater. It's titanium, extremely small (about 5 1/2" long) and it has an external controller. The larger ones are digital but mine is mechanical (which I like). I use the controller to limit the temp to 80, and use the Apex to control it right at 79. It fits easily into the third chamber next to the pump and below the ATO and the temp/Ph probes, which leaves the other two chambers open for the media caddy and skimmer. 1 Quote Link to comment
ReeferJohn Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I like the look of the Finnex heater. May get one of those. I made a thread about this but didn't get many responses...What do you all think of the stock light the fusion is bundled with? My only option for this tank was to buy it bundled and I'm hearing the light kind of sucks which is a huge bummer considering it's $100 extra...a nice Par38 is only like 60 Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I got mine unbundled from Marine Depot for about $100. I ordered enough other stuff that the shipping was free, and three days later it was on my doorstep. The bundled light isn't bad, but you're right - it's probably not the light you will want to have long term, at least, from what I've heard. For $100 or less I'd get a dimmable PAR38 from Coral Compulsion. I have their non-dimmable PAR30 and it worked great for everything from zoas to SPS. I still keep it as an emergency backup light. 1 Quote Link to comment
Livewreck Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 The break in period might last as long as two weeks before you get any action going. I did a vinegar bath on mine, and after it started producing foam about a week after. It has been running like a champ since then. Pay close attention to the water level on the skimmer body and also the collection cup on my video. Here : IM Desktop ghost skimmer working correctly: Thank you for that video. Very helpful. What return pump are you using that lowers your water levels so dramatically in 2nd and 3rd chambers? For those using the Ghost Desktop Skimmer, do you keep the water level in chamber 2 one inch below the top of the main white box, as demonstrated by en28so? Is it OK to keep the water level just below the top of the white box? How many of you specifically clean out the "dead end tunnel" under filter chamber compartments 1 & 2? 1 Quote Link to comment
kwsjimmy Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 I run my water level 1" below top top of the white box.. Runs great.... I had a massive algae problem a while back.. And finally took out the skimmer and media basket and man the dead end tunnel was dirty. I hacked the pump.. And moved it to the end of the dead end tunnel,... Now its always clean... Quote Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Thank you for that video. Very helpful. What return pump are you using that lowers your water levels so dramatically in 2nd and 3rd chambers?For those using the Ghost Desktop Skimmer, do you keep the water level in chamber 2 one inch below the top of the main white box, as demonstrated by en28so? Is it OK to keep the water level just below the top of the white box? How many of you specifically clean out the "dead end tunnel" under filter chamber compartments 1 & 2? I'm just using the stock pump. I achieve my water level by having my JBJ float switch very low in chamber 3(where the return nozzle is). Actually IM recommends to have the water level 1 inch below from the beginning of the desktop ghost skimmer body(the white body) Quote Link to comment
ReeferJohn Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 I got mine unbundled from Marine Depot for about $100. I ordered enough other stuff that the shipping was free, and three days later it was on my doorstep. The bundled light isn't bad, but you're right - it's probably not the light you will want to have long term, at least, from what I've heard. For $100 or less I'd get a dimmable PAR38 from Coral Compulsion. I have their non-dimmable PAR30 and it worked great for everything from zoas to SPS. I still keep it as an emergency backup light. Just my luck that I stumbled upon a used fusion 10 with the light for the price of the tank only new...that's life I guess. Suppose I'll upgrade to a quality Par38 when the time and money comes. On a positive note, my tank arrives tomorrow! Looking forward to getting this going in my apartment. I'm in college and this will be a sweet project and will help keep the stress low. A few more questions for you all...Is the return pump complete garbage? Trying not to spend on anything unnecessary and I do have an MJ600 and MJ900 leftover from my 29g a few years back at home I could get in the future. Would either of those provide adequate waterflow without having to add a powerhead in the display? Also is the intank media basket worth the extra $? Really regretting selling my RKL and MP10 now. 1 Quote Link to comment
kwsjimmy Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 The stock return pump is surprisingly good.... I actually moved it to the dead spot under chamber 1 and that's with more than 16" of overhead.. And it still flows.. You could use the mj... But try the original first, the media basket is a MUST, the in basket ones are better than the innovative ones 1 Quote Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 The stock return pump is surprisingly good.... I actually moved it to the dead spot under chamber 1 and that's with more than 16" of overhead.. And it still flows.. You could use the mj... But try the original first, the media basket is a MUST, the in basket ones are better than the innovative ones +1 on the stock pump. I'm not upgrading it, since it is working very well for me. I did add a WP10 inside the display to keep things moving though. Quote Link to comment
Rory282 Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Hello fusion 10 owners, i have a question. What do you guys think of using a canister filter on the 10? I know, the require weekly maintenance but if you do i think they could be great media reactors. I would put the inlet in the 3rd chamber and connect the outlet to the spinstream or stock nozzle. You guys think this could work? Thx. Quote Link to comment
Livewreck Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 I'm just using the stock pump. I achieve my water level by having my JBJ float switch very low in chamber 3(where the return nozzle is). Actually IM recommends to have the water level 1 inch below from the beginning of the desktop ghost skimmer body(the white body) I must not be seeing the water levels correctly in your video. I feel really dense right now. But if I am not misinterpreting where your levels are (see diagram, below), I don't understand how you can lower the water in chamber 2 by about 1 inch below the level in the display and lower the water level in the third chamber by about 2 to 3 inches below the level in the display, simply by lowering your ato sensor. Where am I going wrong? Quote Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 I must not be seeing the water levels correctly in your video. I feel really dense right now. But if I am not misinterpreting where your levels are (see diagram, below), I don't understand how you can lower the water in chamber 2 by about 1 inch below the level in the display and lower the water level in the third chamber by about 2 to 3 inches below the level in the display, simply by lowering your ato sensor. Where am I going wrong? Hmm. All I know is that by having my float switch very low on chamber 3, my skimmer body sits right about 1 inch above the water level. Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 The IM Desktop and the IM10 were designed to go together. So long as you set up the water level in chamber 3 to be a little below the divider between chamber 2 and 3, the water in chamber 2 is the right height for the skimmer. In my tank, I have the water about 1/2" below the dividing wall. The skimmer takes up most of the space in chamber 2, and while the water level outside the skimmer is lower, in my tank the water inside the skimmer is almost exactly 1" below the top of the white section. I've got the skimmer cup almost all the way down, with the bubbles at minimum. I'm getting good skimmate and very little noise, and no microbubbles. Now ask me how long it took me to get it set that way, and to have it actually work? About three months 4 Quote Link to comment
Livewreck Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Thanks guys. That info is a BIG help. I'm traveling now, but when I get back home I'll lower the position of my ato float. That means I will probably need to also lower the height of the water in the display section of my tank. I'm guessing that lowering the water level just slightly in the display area results in a much larger drop in the water level in the 3rd section of the filter compartments. Right now the water level in the display area of my tank is only about 1" from the top of the tank, and there is very little difference between the water levels in chambers 1, 2, & 3 of the filter compartments. I'm using the stock pump. en28so, teenyreef, if you get the chance, please measure the height of the water in your display area and let me know how many inches (or cm) it is below the top edge of the tank. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
reefernanoman Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Thanks guys. That info is a BIG help. I'm traveling now, but when I get back home I'll lower the position of my ato float. That means I will probably need to also lower the height of the water in the display section of my tank. I'm guessing that lowering the water level just slightly in the display area results in a much larger drop in the water level in the 3rd section of the filter compartments. Right now the water level in the display area of my tank is only about 1" from the top of the tank, and there is very little difference between the water levels in chambers 1, 2, & 3 of the filter compartments. I'm using the stock pump. en28so, teenyreef, if you get the chance, please measure the height of the water in your display area and let me know how many inches (or cm) it is below the top edge of the tank. Thanks. Actually, my water level in the main display doesn't change (it stays constant), even if I mess with the rear chambers. Have you noticed this too teeny? But I might be wrong and haven't noticed it lol. Quote Link to comment
teenyreef Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Yep, that's correct. The only way the level in the display will change is if you change the flow rate through the back chambers, or if you have the levels in the back chambers so high that it's above the return in the first chamber. So if your filter floss gets clogged, the level will go up a bit. Ideally you want a very small waterfall from each chamber to the next, about 1/2" each time. 2 Quote Link to comment
Livewreck Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Hmm. makes sense to me. Maybe the problem I have is that for some reason, my stock pump isn't putting out enough flow. Most return pumps have a small grate like device that can be open or closed as a mechanism for adjusting the flow rate. Perhaps mine isn't set to full open. I never actually checked it. teenyreef, I know you are using the stock pump. en28so, are you also using the stock pump? Quote Link to comment
Evanski9 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Anyone fit a MJ1200 in the back of this bad boy? Quote Link to comment
GavinW Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Just curious how you all go about cleaning the back part of chamber three. I seem to get nasty gunk growing back there. Anybody else have this problem? All of my parameters are spot on. Quote Link to comment
kwsjimmy Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 I run my water level 1" below top top of the white box.. Runs great.... I had a massive algae problem a while back.. And finally took out the skimmer and media basket and man the dead end tunnel was dirty. I hacked the pump.. And moved it to the end of the dead end tunnel,... Now its always clean... Some use a turkey baster , some use a power head... I moved my pump Quote Link to comment
Jimmeh Lee Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Anyone fit a MJ1200 in the back of this bad boy? i just set mine up with one and a spin stream. The water level in the display is about an inch from the top to keep that 1/2" drop from chamber 2-3, and I've left the lid off so far because the spin stream makes a wave big enough to soak the frame of the lid every time it passes lol. Not sure if it's too much or not yet. Quote Link to comment
ReeferJohn Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Well my fusion 10 arrived in the mail today. Rock and sand go in tomorrow! How high is everyone's water level in chamber three? Does this even matter so much as it is able to overflow from chamber 2? 1 Quote Link to comment
da1001 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Well my fusion 10 arrived in the mail today. Rock and sand go in tomorrow! How high is everyone's water level in chamber three? Does this even matter so much as it is able to overflow from chamber 2? SOP seems to be about 1/2 to 1 inch below the lip in chamber 3 is where the water level should be. That's where we like to stick our ATO float switches at any who. Quote Link to comment
kwsjimmy Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Rear sump water heightbia more crucial when your running the skimmer... Quote Link to comment
ReeferJohn Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 SOP seems to be about 1/2 to 1 inch below the lip in chamber 3 is where the water level should be. That's where we like to stick our ATO float switches at any who. Just saw that diagram above don't know how I missed it. Trying to grab a used ATO. It would make life so much easier. Quote Link to comment
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