Poekin Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I went to my LFS today to see what they had to offer as far as live rock goes. They had "Aquacultured" live rock, which looked to have a bunch of coraline algae and other stuff on it for $9.99 a lb, and they also had "Live Rock" which looked to be bare rock sitting in one of those big rubbermaid black water bins for $7.99/lb. Which of these would you guys recommend? Or would it be better to get some rock from a vendor on here? If so, what kind? Quote Link to comment
hotshot619 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 (edited) - For a heater I am in between a rena 50w and a jager 50w. I've read in this thread that the rena fits, so I'm leaning that way. I've just always used Jager heaters and have never had a problem. Any chance that anyone has tried a jager in theirs? I have a Jager 50w in mine, it doesn't fit vertical but I hid it along the back fine, I don't mind it. Seems like Rena is a good choice, I have heard some horror stories about steath heaters so I stayed away from them. I was gonna get a Rena but my LFS had the Jager and I wanted to support him rather then amazon. Works great so far, take a look at my most recent post, TONS of photos. Hope your tank goes well :-) Edited February 14, 2011 by hotshot619 Quote Link to comment
Poekin Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I picked up a Jager for mine, its not a perfect fit but I trust them more then a sheath personally, so I just tried to hide it behind my rocks. Take a look at my set up and see if its to big for you. (I was gonna get a rena but picked this up at lfs) Pics will be up tonight. Great thread, I'm paying attention to it now Quote Link to comment
mmcguffi Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I went to my LFS today to see what they had to offer as far as live rock goes. They had "Aquacultured" live rock, which looked to have a bunch of coraline algae and other stuff on it for $9.99 a lb, and they also had "Live Rock" which looked to be bare rock sitting in one of those big rubbermaid black water bins for $7.99/lb. Which of these would you guys recommend? Or would it be better to get some rock from a vendor on here? If so, what kind? Personally I would go for the best looking pieces of "Live Rock" they have as I like all the random hitchhikers that come with fresh rock. Also you have to watch out with the "Aquacultured" rock as a lot of the time the rock will actually be painted purple in places to give it the appearance that its covered in coralline. So yea, if I were you Id totally go for the regular stuff as in time it will mature and look awesome. (And not to be a d*ck but you probably could have searched and found a good answer/opinion ) Quote Link to comment
tmhasara Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I went to my LFS today to see what they had to offer as far as live rock goes. They had "Aquacultured" live rock, which looked to have a bunch of coraline algae and other stuff on it for $9.99 a lb, and they also had "Live Rock" which looked to be bare rock sitting in one of those big rubbermaid black water bins for $7.99/lb. Which of these would you guys recommend? Or would it be better to get some rock from a vendor on here? If so, what kind? I saw this stuff recently too. Check out this thread that talks about it. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=261833&hl= Quote Link to comment
herranton Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I'm researching the Reefkeeper lite now. I had looked at it before but didn't think it would be necessary for such a small tank. If I were to invest the money in the reefkeeper, would it be ok to do without the refractometer, or would having both be a good idea? There is a debate over the merits of having your own refractometer, and most people believe that they are superior to using a hydrometer. I feel that a refractometer is more of a "toy" for big kids to make them feel like a scientist. You do not need one. I would rather spend my money on a something more useful. If I was choosing between an RKL and a refractometer, I would take the RKL every time. Even though it is four times the price once you get everything that you need. You will want to get a RKM-SL2 in addition to the RKL itself. That will allow you to add float switches for an ATO system. In a tank like the "Edge", you will want an ATO. Quote Link to comment
Poekin Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I saw this stuff recently too. Check out this thread that talks about it. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=261833&hl= I saw that thread as well From my research, they are two different things. This seems to be rock that is placed somewhere in the ocean to collect organisms, algae, etc., but it isn't rock native to that area. A lot of times its concrete, etc. Quote Link to comment
Neet Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 hi neet,it would be nice to dim all strings individually with two buckpuck and run them with one power supply. maybe i can upgrade the constant current driver later down the road and add one buckpuck to the whites only.As money is kinda tight and I am getting this driver in the kit. What do you think if i get the dimmable driver for both the 4 blue and the 4 white? Its just swap the 35- 700W and pay a little bit extra for the ELN 60-48D. Or just wait till i can get 2 buckpuck and the power supply? do you think this is the best way to go about it? are you over all happy with the4 way you choice your lighting? with the 8 and dimmable? If you really want 2 color dim just wait and save, I'm happy, but I wish I could adjust it a bit bit more though. Quote Link to comment
Sea Breeze Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 If you really want 2 color dim just wait and save, I'm happy, but I wish I could adjust it a bit bit more though. Neet, Thanks for the input.. I will wait till my next pay day and order the 2 buckpuck and power supply.8 cree led total .your lighting and tank looks great by the way. thank you for the advice. i will post photos when all is completed. thnx again. Quote Link to comment
Sea Breeze Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Neet,Thanks for the input.. I will wait till my next pay day and order the 2 buckpuck and power supply.8 cree led total .your lighting and tank looks great by the way. thank you for the advice. i will post photos when all is completed. thnx again. Hi ALL, which Cree RB ledS are brighter and more efficient? CREE XR-E Royal Blue CREEd XP-E Royal Blue ANY INPUT OR KNOWLEDGE IS WELCOME AND IN THE LONG RUN HELP OTHERS OUT. THNX Quote Link to comment
hotshot619 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I'm wondering if there are enough fluval edge owners here to tempt nanotubers into a group buy? Because man that lighting looks sweet but, it cost such a pretty penny... I think ill email them tonight. Quote Link to comment
Neet Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Hi ALL,which Cree RB ledS are brighter and more efficient? CREE XR-E Royal Blue CREEd XP-E Royal Blue ANY INPUT OR KNOWLEDGE IS WELCOME AND IN THE LONG RUN HELP OTHERS OUT. THNX CREE XR-E and CREE XP-E are both the same brightness. I only difference between them in the angle of light. Quote Link to comment
blackwagon Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 How far away is that plastic bag from your lights? I'm thinking of just bagging my whole heat-sink to deal with the salt creep of these tanks. I'm testing it now with a freezer bag. Quote Link to comment
Sea Breeze Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 CREE XR-E and CREE XP-E are both the same brightness. I only difference between them in the angle of light. The XP-E's are about 20% brighter than the XR-E's so that's definitely a better LED. Quote Link to comment
Neet Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 How far away is that plastic bag from your lights? I'm thinking of just bagging my whole heat-sink to deal with the salt creep of these tanks. I'm testing it now with a freezer bag. It's very close it isn't touching and no problem with the plastic melting too. Currently I'm using the same set up for the water guard except I'm using that thick plastic bag that the LFS has. Quote Link to comment
colinlp Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hi all, I'm just in the process of setting up my edge (my first SW), wow there is a lot to learn but this thread has been an amazing read and so helpful. I have decided to buy the nanotuners lighting unit, I have to face facts that my electrical skills aren't up to making my own, better safe than sorry!! I'm hoping to start my cycle in a couple of weeks when the rest of the stuff ordered arrives. Until the LEDs arrive do you think the stock lights will be OK to start the cycle? It would save me either waiting or buying temporary alternatives if I could start off with the halogens. Also I want to buy a device to measure the salinity of my water, what device should I get, is it really necessary to by a refractometer? Any help would be most appreciated and no doubt I'll be asking for much much more before I'm through!! Quote Link to comment
mmcguffi Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I'm wondering if there are enough fluval edge owners here to tempt nanotubers into a group buy? Because man that lighting looks sweet but, it cost such a pretty penny...I think ill email them tonight. Id totally be down for that. Quote Link to comment
Sea Breeze Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hi all, I'm just in the process of setting up my edge (my first SW), wow there is a lot to learn but this thread has been an amazing read and so helpful. I have decided to buy the nanotuners lighting unit, I have to face facts that my electrical skills aren't up to making my own, better safe than sorry!! I'm hoping to start my cycle in a couple of weeks when the rest of the stuff ordered arrives. Until the LEDs arrive do you think the stock lights will be OK to start the cycle? It would save me either waiting or buying temporary alternatives if I could start off with the halogens. Also I want to buy a device to measure the salinity of my water, what device should I get, is it really necessary to by a refractometer? Any help would be most appreciated and no doubt I'll be asking for much much more before I'm through!! yes you can cycle the tank with the stock halogens that came with the edge. a refractometer is a more precise way of reading the salinity and specific gravity but is not really needed ,you can get away with the hydrometer to measure the salinity and specific gravity. CREE XR-E and CREE XP-E are both the same brightness. I only difference between them in the angle of light. Hi Neet, I see in the photo of your led build that you used the solderless connectors.what screw size did you use? and what drill bit size did you use to drill the holes in the heatsink? did you just go to lowes or home depot to get the screws? any help that can give in leading me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. thnx Quote Link to comment
neversoclever Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 anybody need these?? MR11 LEDs just discovered this thread. i'll get pics of mine up when its finished. Quote Link to comment
colinlp Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 yes you can cycle the tank with the stock halogens that came with the edge. a refractometer is a more precise way of reading the salinity and specific gravity but is not really needed ,you can get away with the hydrometer to measure the salinity and specific gravity. Many thanks, I'll stick with the stock lights for now then, hopefully by the time I'm ready to put in the CUC the Nanotuners unit will be with me. I can see that the swing arm hydrometer might give stray readings but the glass floating type should be OK I think, at least it's technology I'm used to from wine making. I understand temperature plays a role in the readings as some have this parameter on them. If I really need a refractometer I'll get one and probably will in the future anyway Quote Link to comment
tmhasara Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 but the glass floating type should be OK Just be mindful that if that piece of paper in the glass tube moves up or down (which it can easily), your reading will be off. You may just want to take it to your LFS where they accurately know the salinity of the water they sell, float the hydrometer in there, then mark the level with a Sharpie. Quote Link to comment
colinlp Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Just be mindful that if that piece of paper in the glass tube moves up or down (which it can easily), your reading will be off. You may just want to take it to your LFS where they accurately know the salinity of the water they sell, float the hydrometer in there, then mark the level with a Sharpie. Very good point, never thought of that. We don't have an LFS ours is an IDFS (incredibly distant!!) but yes that's the only way to be sure I guess. Maybe I should just get a refractometer and save the worry? I believe they need calibrating too, I'll have a search on that to see what I can learn Quote Link to comment
hunggi74 Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hello Edge owners! I've got a piece of plexiglass as a splashguard on my tank. I'm worried about there not being enough of the water's surface area meeting the air and therefore not enough oxygen in the water of the tank. I say this because I've got 2 out of 3 Astrea snails hanging out by the rim of the tank (one is actually on the filter floss!) and I had one hermit crab die inexplicably today. I've been testing my water religiously so PH, ammonia, nitrite an nitrites all ok. I'm getting a clownfish this weekend and I'm worried that the poor guy might not make it in my tank. Am I paranoid? Quote Link to comment
Riley007 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 No, air exchange on those tanks is very low due to the small surface area of the water. A small improvement would be to remove the lit off the AC20. This will give you a bit more surface area. Also more fequent water changes add air. Quote Link to comment
danielmparker Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 hello everyone, i have an edge, been set up as a shrimp tank, and softies woth 2 10 watt 50/50 coralife screw in pcs, cheto in the aquaclear, the tank works great, but... I WANT TO DRILL!!! any1 drill the edge yet? want to know how it worked for them thanks all great tanks btw Quote Link to comment
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