Kinda's Large Tank Adventure (LTA)

[seabass]

1 hour ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Any ID on this? Some sort of clam?

Most people would just call it a bi-valve.  It's a filter feeder, so certainly not a bad guy.  However, they typically don't last long-term in our tanks (just usually not enough food for them).

[Kindanewtothis]

3 hours ago, seabass said:

Most people would just call it a bi-valve.  It's a filter feeder, so certainly not a bad guy.  However, they typically don't last long-term in our tanks (just usually not enough food for them).

Other than dosing phyto I don't really see what I can do.🤷‍♂️

 

Display water level question:

 

I feel like the water level in the DT should be higher.

 

 

The sump have enough capacity to receive more water if the pump stops. The overflows stay full when the it stops so there is just the water in the pipes and over the overflows line that go back in the sump. So here's the question, how do I do it? Just add salt water while the pump is running ? What would be the impact on the skimmer ?

[seabass]

The overflow teeth determine the waterline in the display.  Adding more water will not affect that water level (just the level in the sump).  Changing the water level in the sump so that it's higher in the skimmer section will affect it's operation.  If it's currently at the optimal level, it will become less efficient.  However, it still won't change the level in the display.

 

Without raising the overflow's teeth (or blocking the lower portion of the teeth), the only thing that will raise the water level in the display is to increase the flow through the return pump.  I know that your pump is capable of a higher flow rate, but I'm not sure that this is the best thing to do either (as the flow through the sump will become much more).

 

I'd leave it as is unless it's really, really bugging you.

[Kindanewtothis]

55 minutes ago, seabass said:

The overflow teeth determine the waterline in the display.  Adding more water will not affect that water level (just the level in the sump).  Changing the water level in the sump so that it's higher in the skimmer section will affect it's operation.  If it's currently at the optimal level, it will become less efficient.  However, it still won't change the level in the display.

 

Without raising the overflow's teeth (or blocking the lower portion of the teeth), the only thing that will raise the water level in the display is to increase the flow through the return pump.  I know that your pump is capable of a higher flow rate, but I'm not sure that this is the best thing to do either (as the flow through the sump will become much more).

 

I'd leave it as is unless it's really, really bugging you.

Thanks, no change then.

 

Since it is a rimmed tank, I was under the impression I was doing something wrong.

[mcarroll]

8 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I feel like the water level in the DT should be higher.

It is a little strange that they'd engineer the overflow teeth so the water level is that far below the rim of the tank.

 

The rim is (partly) there to cover up the water line, after all.

 

Any idea what brand tank that is?

[Kindanewtothis]

7 hours ago, mcarroll said:

It is a little strange that they'd engineer the overflow teeth so the water level is that far below the rim of the tank.

 

The rim is (partly) there to cover up the water line, after all.

 

Any idea what brand tank that is?

Exactly what I said to myself.

 

It's a seapora.

[mcarroll]

On 12/23/2022 at 9:26 AM, Kindanewtothis said:

It's a seapora.

Unless the weir looks like it's not-original/ has been modified in some way, I'd ask the source: https://www.milwaukeeaquatics.com/seapora-aquariums.html 

 

(ph# is conveniently on the main page at the top 👍)

[Kindanewtothis]

8 hours ago, mcarroll said:

Unless the weir looks like it's not-original/ has been modified in some way, I'd ask the source: https://www.milwaukeeaquatics.com/seapora-aquariums.html 

 

(ph# is conveniently on the main page at the top 👍)

I think you are right, it's not that it was modified, it is missing a part I think.

[mcarroll]

Hopefully they can supply the missing piece then!!  🤞🤞🤞

[seabass]

I'm pretty sure that nothing is missing (but I could be wrong).  The upper rim on the tank is structural and not "intended" to hide the waterline (even if sometimes it does).  The teeth were probably made on the longer side to help ensure that they don't get overwhelmed or blocked by a snail, anemone, etc ( and to help support more flow).

 

I imagine that this is their standard overflow box which they use for their "reef-ready" drilled tanks.  It might not be as aesthetically pleasing as some others, but it's quite functional.  They might even offer this tank with just one overflow box (and this tank has two for additional flow, and redundancy in case there's an obstruction in one).

[Kindanewtothis]

5 hours ago, seabass said:

I'm pretty sure that nothing is missing (but I could be wrong).  The upper rim on the tank is structural and not "intended" to hide the waterline (even if sometimes it does).  The teeth were probably made on the longer side to help ensure that they don't get overwhelmed or blocked by a snail, anemone, etc ( and to help support more flow).

 

I imagine that this is their standard overflow box which they use for their "reef-ready" drilled tanks.  It might not be as aesthetically pleasing as some others, but it's quite functional.  They might even offer this tank with just one overflow box (and this tank has two for additional flow, and redundancy in case there's an obstruction in one).

A part is missing on one side.

[Kindanewtothis]

Boxing day!

 

 

[mcarroll]

10 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

A part is missing on one side.

If you're talking about the clear/white tube you have in one drain pipe, but not the other, unfortunately that tube doesn't have anything to do with the level of water in the display.  That tube is supposed to help with drain noise when you're running crazy flow through it.  Same for those down-facing drain-pipe adapters....so-called Durso Mods.  

 

Neither should be necessary if you're running powerheads for flow and you have a normal level of flow through your sump.

 

"Normal" is about 2x-4x the display tank's volume, in GPH.  So if this is a 120 gallon tank, you should have around 240-480 GPH of flow through the sump.  Anywhere in that range is fine.   Anywhere in that range is going to make your drains operate silently, even without those mods filling up your drain boxes.

 

You can measure your flow rate (and should at least once) just so you know what your sump's actual flow rate is.  Time how long it takes to fill up a measuring vessel of some kind, then compute up to gallons per hour.

 

 

 

Some Seapora boilerplate I see online about their reef ready tanks:

"Corner overflow with patented flow rate system"

 

I think you're missing the patented part.  LOL

 

(I'm still not sure what the patented mechanism is.....can't see it in your photos or the retail photos I've seen so far.)

 

Whatever it is that's missing, I'm guessing it's to allow crazy-high flow rates (10x on up), as was the norm before powerheads.  

 

A deeper weir is a logical way to handle higher flow rates.  

 

With an adjustable weir, the level of water in the tank could be kept up behind the tank trim as intended while allowing for high OR low flow rates.  Smart, if that's what's supposed to be happening.

 

And, BTW, now that I'm looking back, I don't think that link I gave you earlier is the manufacturer.   (Thanks a lot, Google!!)

 

Maybe this (https://seaporaproducts.com) but the web server appears to be borked, so I dunno....  In case it helps, here's the phone number from the Google preview snippet of the site: 1-877-738-7289 

 

Good luck!

[Kindanewtothis]

1 hour ago, mcarroll said:

If you're talking about the clear/white tube you have in one drain pipe, but not the other,

I was not. Yes it is for the drain noise. However, I do not know my exact sump flow rate. My return pump goes up to 3170 gph and it is set at 1/3 on the power dial.

 

Sorry for once again bad pictures 

[Kindanewtothis]

Taken elsewhere

 

That's what is missing on one side.

[seabass]

Oh, I think I see.  That part must block some of the flow through the teeth and allow you to adjust the water level.  Interesting.

[mcarroll]

24 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Taken elsewhere

 

That's what is missing on one side.

THAT is what I wasn't able to make out in the other pics – thanks!!   I'd hope the company could send you one of those.  Also wondering if you could DIY a replacement of some kind.   I'm thinking a few min with a Dremel and large plastic bottle...or something like that.

[Kindanewtothis]

1 minute ago, mcarroll said:

THAT is what I wasn't able to make out in the other pics – thanks!!   I'd hope the company could send you one of those.  Also wondering if you could DIY a replacement of some kind.   I'm thinking a few min with a Dremel and large plastic bottle...or something like that.

I got it second hand but maybe I could order it.

[Kindanewtothis]

Regarding the torchs I ordered, i was thinking about placing them 3-4 inches from one another, in a medium flow area, low to medium hight. Is it good?

[seabass]

They should be able to touch each other without them killing each other, but I'd still probably give them even more room.  It shouldn't take that long before they grow together.

 

Remember to watch your tank's water parameters.  Keep alkalinity stable and don't let nutrient levels bottom out.

[Kindanewtothis]

10 minutes ago, seabass said:

They should be able to touch each other without them killing each other, but I'd still probably give them even more room.  It shouldn't take that long before they grow together.

I said 3-4 inches but that wasn't right. It's more 5-6.

 

Thanks. I will look at parameters, I dose 24 ml of reef fusion 1 and 2 every day. Will test to establish new consumption.

 

 

[Kindanewtothis]

39 minutes ago, seabass said:

don't let nutrient levels bottom out.

No3 isn't a problem. It's stable around 10-12 ppm.

 

Po4 needs to be monitored closer. It was 0.02 yesterday. It is always low and I dose NeoPhost to keep it around 0.05. I know the fuge works "too much" but I prefer to dose a little than to have out of control phosphate like in the 50g.

[Kindanewtothis]

Regarding the "Gulf of Mexico experience", any I.D. on this growing on that rock? Some kind of macroalgae ?

[Kindanewtothis]

Torches are diping.

[Kindanewtothis]