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AI prime wifi LED


reefernanoman

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reefernanoman

Looking at this light it's tempting to buy one ... So I can gut it and put a nanobox puck in there. That sexy body deserves a better spectrum.

 

Maybe conbined with a sheet of difusion material for that perfect color mix. Of course a gooseneck ala Dave and a bluefish mini to round out those features as well.

So pay $200 just to use the shell? Wow.. But a couple of recent owners say that the light generated looks really nice?
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porkchop-rob

He's just a fanboy of nanobox. Its ok, we all have our preferences. In all fairness....I think the nanobox has a great look to it as is!

 

I have zero issues with the Primes spectrum, and I have already noticed a difference in my corals (compared to the boost light) in just a few hours.

 

I really needed to be able to use the light without a wifi connection, and that's what made my decision for the AI (well, that and their amazing customer service)....hopefully AI can get the connection and time issue sorted on mine, so I CAN use it without the local wifi attached.

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I don't know why people keep bringing up Nanobox in this thread. This thread was specifically made for the AI Prime and but we keep getting NB fangirls going against it, somewhat supporting the product, and then supporting Nanobox 100% behind all that. Sure the NB is a great product, however some of us can't access them as easily as others (exchange rates, ease of shipping for product issues, living in other countries). Sure the 6 month delay on the product really sucked but that was out of are hands. So if you got NB because you couldn't wait. Great, enjoy it!

Who cares if there is no warm white... People have been growing coral with Radions, AI products since the products have been released on the market. I know this for a fact because my local frag dealers all use Radions, or AI products (and even Reef Breeders which use the cheapest LEDs). My tank got delayed and might not even happen now, BUT.. If I do go through with it, you bet I'm putting Primes over my Fusion 30L!

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masterbuilder

Maybe I am not understanding the OP's post about the problems with his Prime and wifi.

My question.... does the Prime have to be continuously connected to wifi network to run its lighting program or is the network just used to upload the program to the Prime's onboard memory like most other programmable led fixtures. I cant imagine it has to be connected to a network at all times.

 

Mark

 

p.s. Interesting the lack of details and documentation.

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reefernanoman

My question.... does the Prime have to be continuously connected to wifi network to run its lighting program or is the network just used to upload the program to the Prime's onboard memory like most other programmable led fixtures. I cant imagine it has to be connected to a network at all times.

From what I have read, it looks like you just program it initially, then the light takes it from there and no wifi is needed. That's how I have understood it.

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jedimasterben

Who cares if there is no warm white... People have been growing coral with Radions, AI products since the products have been released on the market

You should care if there isn't. It's not about growth - literally any light can grow corals if sufficient intensity is present. I've designed a lot of lighting for a lot of people and a lot of coral farms over the past few years, and even the ones using a bank of shitty Chinese blue/white fixtures get great growth.

 

It's about color. Some corals will look great, but there are some that will not have the same colors they did under xx light before and it's because low-CRI cool white LEDs are just anemic spectrally, mostly blue in output. Adding a small amount of 530nm and 660nm doesn't fix the problem. There is a very, very, very long thread here on N-R about LED aesthetics where you can see the progression from cool white/royal blue arrays to inserting different colors and eventually neutral/warm (aka higher CRI) whites into the mix to fix the issue.

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reefernanoman

I don't know why people keep bringing up Nanobox in this thread. This thread was specifically made for the AI Prime and but we keep getting NB fangirls going against it, somewhat supporting the product, and then supporting Nanobox 100% behind all that. Sure the NB is a great product, however some of us can't access them as easily as others (exchange rates, ease of shipping for product issues, living in other countries). Sure the 6 month delay on the product really sucked but that was out of are hands. So if you got NB because you couldn't wait. Great, enjoy it!

 

Who cares if there is no warm white... People have been growing coral with Radions, AI products since the products have been released on the market. I know this for a fact because my local frag dealers all use Radions, or AI products (and even Reef Breeders which use the cheapest LEDs). My tank got delayed and might not even happen now, BUT.. If I do go through with it, you bet I'm putting Primes over my Fusion 30L!

I partially agree with your statement, but the mentioning of NB comparison is going to constantly come up because these two lights are geared towards the same kind of consumer. I too am guilty of bringing up NB, but I don't completely dismiss the Prime, since that would be silly and it is proving to be a very little nice light even after just a few hours. This reminds me of something like the Android vs Apple argument: both are very good in their own way, and they both have die hard fans.

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nismo_sky32

Mine should be delivered Monday. Although I loved my nano box, the whites and colors would not stop flickering and finally went out on me. I'm downsizing my 45 cube to either a 12 gallon cube or my 15 gallon zen so the light should be plenty sufficient

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porkchop-rob

...does the Prime have to be continuously connected to wifi network to run its lighting program or is the network just used to upload the program to the Prime...

 

According to AI, it does NOT need to be connected to wifi at all. It emits its own wifi signal that you connect to, in order to make changes.

 

That said, on my unit, It only worked temporarily before giving some kind of error and blinking the AI (indicator light) red, and shutting off. Also, when not connected to my home wifi the time was off on the controller.

 

I connected my prime to my home wifi just to see if it would rectify the time issue, and it did. Immediately.

 

I am waiting for a response from AI on this issue, as I have already contacted them.

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You should care if there isn't. It's not about growth - literally any light can grow corals if sufficient intensity is present. I've designed a lot of lighting for a lot of people and a lot of coral farms over the past few years, and even the ones using a bank of shitty Chinese blue/white fixtures get great growth.

 

It's about color. Some corals will look great, but there are some that will not have the same colors they did under xx light before and it's because low-CRI cool white LEDs are just anemic spectrally, mostly blue in output. Adding a small amount of 530nm and 660nm doesn't fix the problem. There is a very, very, very long thread here on N-R about LED aesthetics where you can see the progression from cool white/royal blue arrays to inserting different colors and eventually neutral/warm (aka higher CRI) whites into the mix to fix the issue.

 

Isn't that why you have the ability to control every single colour ?

 

I partially agree with your statement, but the mentioning of NB comparison is going to constantly come up because these two lights are geared towards the same kind of consumer. I too am guilty of bringing up NB, but I don't completely dismiss the Prime, since that would be silly and it is proving to be a very little nice light even after just a few hours. This reminds me of something like the Android vs Apple argument: both are very good in their own way, and they both have die hard fans.

Well lets hold of on the comparisons until a handful of people get this fixture in their hands. You were complaining, comparing, before AI even shipped out the Primes, meanwhile you had a NBR Tide on order all along. Its one thing to compare by specs and another to compare them after seeing both in person. I just don't think its fair to be waving a NBR flag around the people who are buying Primes. They could have bought the NBR if they desired to do so, but they waited for the Prime. Let them enjoy their lights.

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jedimasterben

Isn't that why you have the ability to control every single colour ?

You can't make wavelengths that aren't present in sufficient quantity to begin with. Your eyes can be fooled, but the pigments in our corals cannot.

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porkchop-rob

You can't make wavelengths that aren't present in sufficient quantity to begin with. Your eyes can be fooled, but the pigments in our corals cannot.

 

I can appreciate this statement.

 

But, for a retail ready, walk in to the lfs and buy it light, made by a well known manufacturer, that has some of the best customer service (and warranty) in the industry, its a great option....Really in a class and price point all of its own.

 

I believe that the vast majority of hobbyist will be more than happy with the light, especially in a nano-pico sized tank.

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reefernanoman

 

Isn't that why you have the ability to control every single colour ?

 

Well lets hold of on the comparisons until a handful of people get this fixture in their hands. You were complaining, comparing, before AI even shipped out the Primes, meanwhile you had a NBR Tide on order all along. Its one thing to compare by specs and another to compare them after seeing both in person. I just don't think its fair to be waving a NBR flag around the people who are buying Primes. They could have bought the NBR if they desired to do so, but they waited for the Prime. Let them enjoy their lights.

I got a NB because AI took too long to get this product to the market. How am I keeping people from enjoying their Primes? I'm human, and by nature I will do a little complaining. I have said the "the Prime looks like a very nice light". Does that go against it?

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jedimasterben

I can appreciate this statement.

 

But, for a retail ready, walk in to the lfs and buy it light, made by a well known manufacturer, that has some of the best customer service (and warranty) in the industry, its a great option....Really in a class and price point all of its own.

 

I believe that the vast majority of hobbyist will be more than happy with the light, especially in a nano-pico sized tank.

Of course - but Ecotech has had a lot of time to merge back into the path that DIY has carved. ;)

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porkchop-rob

Just received an email back from Justin @ AI.

 

When I get home I'll reset the light and take it off of my home wifi. Hopefully it will be all better now.

 

as well, he said there is a way to adjust the time on the web interface. I must have missed it.

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It's about color. Some corals will look great, but there are some that will not have the same colors they did under xx light before and it's because low-CRI cool white LEDs are just anemic spectrally, mostly blue in output. Adding a small amount of 530nm and 660nm doesn't fix the problem. There is a very, very, very long thread here on N-R about LED aesthetics where you can see the progression from cool white/royal blue arrays to inserting different colors and eventually neutral/warm (aka higher CRI) whites into the mix to fix the issue.

Forgive the question if it's been asked a thousand times, however if a person was able to obtain cool whites with the same or comparable CRI to the neutral/warm led varieties...which would be optimal and why? (same CRI for all threee) I only ask because when this issue comes up people claim that the cool whites of today have a better CRI today than they did a few years back which is why manufactures continue to use them. Which also brings up the question for the continued need to use blue/green supplementation. So confused.

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TheKingInYellow

Just received an email back from Justin @ AI.

 

When I get home I'll reset the light and take it off of my home wifi. Hopefully it will be all better now.

 

as well, he said there is a way to adjust the time on the web interface. I must have missed it.

 

I'm curious to what his proposed solution was on the light losing connection when off the wifi?

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porkchop-rob

 

I'm curious to what his proposed solution was on the light losing connection when off the wifi?

 

Here is the response from AI....

 

"1. The blinking red light was most likely related to an initial programming of the Prime module. This shouldn't happen again for you. If it becomes a recurring issue, please let us know immediately.

 

2. The Prime updates its time automatically when connected to a network that has access to a valid time server. If it is not connected to a network, you will need to set the time on the Prime manually. This can be done at the bottom of the Prime's webpage.

 

To clear the current wifi settings, hold the button down on the Prime for 3 seconds, until the Prime starts to blink green. Upon release, the network settings will reset and the Prime should start hosting a wireless access point again. When you take the light to work, you can control the light directly by connecting to its wireless access point."

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The prime seems like a cool lighting option. I would love to see a side-by-side comparison between the Prime and a NB Tide. I love my Tide but once I add the Blue Fish Mini to my Tide I could have purchased (2) Primes for the same money.

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porkchop-rob

The prime seems like a cool lighting option. I would love to see a side-by-side comparison between the Prime and a NB Tide. I love my Tide but once I add the Blue Fish Mini to my Tide I could have purchased (2) Primes for the same money.

Someone send me a NB light and Ill do a direct side by side comparison.

 

Ill buy another tank, and have identical inhabitants, same cleaning routines...etc....ill be very scientific about it.

 

Pm for my address to ship NB light! LOL

 

Dave??? LOL

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Someone send me a NB light and Ill do a direct side by side comparison.

 

Ill buy another tank, and have identical inhabitants, same cleaning routines...etc....ill be very scientific about it.

 

Pm for my address to ship NB light! LOL

 

Dave??? LOL

I was thinking the same about the Prime. I am just not sure that someone will send me a Prime to test.

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I have had two LED units with warm whites. A Steves LED unit with colors suggested here, and reefbreeders. I changed to these hydras and I can say the coral colors are better with the AI than with either fixture. Of course looks are subjective, but could it be possible that some people prefer the look of having cool whites rather than just pure cost motivation for these companies? I know the LED experts here like WW, but perhaps some like cool whites? Perhaps they design the fixtures with what catches the average reefer's eye.

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jedimasterben

Forgive the question if it's been asked a thousand times, however if a person was able to obtain cool whites with the same or comparable CRI to the neutral/warm led varieties...which would be optimal and why? (same CRI for all threee) I only ask because when this issue comes up people claim that the cool whites of today have a better CRI today than they did a few years back which is why manufactures continue to use them. Which also brings up the question for the continued need to use blue/green supplementation. So confused.

A high CRI would mean that it has a more balanced green/amber/red spectra than a lower CRI white. While still having a lot of blue output, it would have less of that and more green/amber/red and would help elicit non-fluorescent colors out of hiding.

 

Cool whites of today don't really have higher CRI, they're still on average 60-70 minimum, just now they are available in tighter color bins that can vary as little as 100K.

 

I have had two LED units with warm whites. A Steves LED unit with colors suggested here, and reefbreeders. I changed to these hydras and I can say the coral colors are better with the AI than with either fixture. Of course looks are subjective, but could it be possible that some people prefer the look of having cool whites rather than just pure cost motivation for these companies? I know the LED experts here like WW, but perhaps some like cool whites? Perhaps they design the fixtures with what catches the average reefer's eye.

They are aware that the more colored LEDs in the unit the higher sales will be because bigger numbers are better. Most of the reefing population is completely uneducated when it comes to light and what the colors are for, much less that there is a better, easier way of doing it, and Ecotech realizes this and is why the Radion 'Pro' adds several more colors for a price premium. Why do with one LED what you could do with four or five? ;)

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I don't know nearly what you do when it comes to LED lighting Ben, but I don't know if I totally subscribe to your theory with the aquarium lighting industry. It seems to me that it would be a competitive advantage to have a light that makes coral appear better to the average reefer's eyes as there are times you can see lights side by side such as my LFS. Just hard for me to think that these big companies don't ask or do experimental fixtures with different color combinations and ask reefers what they prefer.

 

My eye is not trained like yours, but my WW fixtures were not impressive to me color wise. Perhaps it was the quality of LED or something else, I have not a clue, but all I know is when I plugged in the AI I was very happy with the colors I could see that I couldn't before. With all your experimentation what LED combination did you finally find that you liked? I thought you ended up running LED with t5 to get the look you wanted, I don't think most of us have that critical of an eye.

 

Please don't think I am being contentious, I highly respect your knowledge on this subject.

 

When it comes to NanoBox I am very excited to see what they have in the future. If they had on their website a fixtures to give great coverage to a 48" long tank either LED only to LED/t5 with controller for 1,300(ish) I would have been all over it and I am excited for the day he might, but I didn't see anything like that.

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