ElmoC Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 So you have for lat/long/gmt => 38/-88/-6 ? You time is set to your local time? Sunrise set to auto? What are the times it shows for sunrise/sunset? Link to comment
basser1 Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 So you have for lat/long/gmt => 38/-88/-6 ? You time is set to your local time? Sunrise set to auto? What are the times it shows for sunrise/sunset? So you have for lat/long/gmt => 38/-88/-6 ? Yes You time is set to your local time? Yes Sunrise set to auto? Yes What are the times it shows for sunrise/sunset? Sunrise = 06:50 and Sunset = 18:31. Are these good, or do folks use Manual settings? Since the days are getting shorter, I'd like to view my corals later in the day. What do you all think?? Link to comment
ElmoC Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 That looks about right to me. Looks like you have it set now. I'm in L.A. and my times are 7:06 and 18:47. I keep my unit at home on auto but I have the one at work set to manual. Link to comment
basser1 Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Thanks for your help Elmo Since I just got this with Daves' new light array, I'm still going to play with the settings some. Link to comment
aviator300 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Ok. After a month of running lower power and increasing gradually, here is what works best for my 5 gal PicO aquarium with Zoas, LPS, softies, and an SPS Blues 185 Whites 75 Ramp 90 min Delay 20 min whites. I love the slightly bluer hue that seems like about 20K Link to comment
DaveFason Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 Sounds great! -Dave Link to comment
basser1 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Just wondering, but on my old MH set-up I had the Phoenix bulb and I was very happy with how the corals looked. I believe the Phoenix bulbs were 14K? What would I need to have my settings at to come close to that? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Just wondering, but on my old MH set-up I had the Phoenix bulb and I was very happy with how the corals looked. I believe the Phoenix bulbs were 14K? What would I need to have my settings at to come close to that? You'll wanna just play around with it until you find what you like. It's all personal preference, and how one person 'sees' a particular lamp will not be ho another sees them, especially when you factor in the dozens of different ballasts people use to improperly drive the bulb Link to comment
tibbsy07 Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 I unplugged my light tonight to do some tank maintenance and when I turned it back on it seems different? I have it on night mode with channel 1 as 1 and all the others at 0, but the lime led is on and the others are "glowing" ... Is that normal? I thought channel 1 was blues and everything else was channel 2? The night setting before was dark blue, now it's like teal... Link to comment
DaveFason Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 I unplugged my light tonight to do some tank maintenance and when I turned it back on it seems different? I have it on night mode with channel 1 as 1 and all the others at 0, but the lime led is on and the others are "glowing" ... Is that normal? I thought channel 1 was blues and everything else was channel 2? The night setting before was dark blue, now it's like teal... Make sure you plugged it back in correctly. With the arrow facing up. When plugging in it needs to be to the top top and using plugs 1 & 2. -Dave Link to comment
tibbsy07 Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Make sure you plugged it back in correctly. With the arrow facing up. When plugging in it needs to be to the top top and using plugs 1 & 2. -Dave Everything is plugged in properly. The only thing I "unplugged" was I turned off the power strip the light and controller are plugged in to. Link to comment
tibbsy07 Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 OK I unplugged everything and then plugged everything back in properly for sure. Here is what my night mode looks like Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 That looks about right to me. The reason for the slight glow on the other LEDs is because they are remote phosphor - meaning that there is a blue LED under the built-in lens that has a layer of phosphor on it, and that phosphor is being 'excited' by the blue light coming from the other LEDs. I've most notably had this issue when testing the original Lumia 5.1 multichip, as the royal blue row would excite the phosphor of the neutral white row and would give off a pretty significant glow since the LEDs were only like a mm apart. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 Correct, looks correct. this the LEDs SO close they can excite the other channel. Link to comment
tibbsy07 Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 That looks about right to me. The reason for the slight glow on the other LEDs is because they are remote phosphor - meaning that there is a blue LED under the built-in lens that has a layer of phosphor on it, and that phosphor is being 'excited' by the blue light coming from the other LEDs. I've most notably had this issue when testing the original Lumia 5.1 multichip, as the royal blue row would excite the phosphor of the neutral white row and would give off a pretty significant glow since the LEDs were only like a mm apart. Correct, looks correct. this the LEDs SO close they can excite the other channel. Gotcha. Thanks. So the green LED (lime, I assume) should be on with the blues? Link to comment
xiaoxiy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Gotcha. Thanks. So the green LED (lime, I assume) should be on with the blues? If you're referring to the LEDs @ D9 and D12, those look like cyan, so yes. If you're referring to one of the ones on the corner, those are just side-excitation reaction. Link to comment
tibbsy07 Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 If you're referring to the LEDs @ D9 and D12, those look like cyan, so yes. If you're referring to one of the ones on the corner, those are just side-excitation reaction. Yeah there is a cyan and a lime. I thought the lime was on the white channel. Derptibbs is derp. Link to comment
xiaoxiy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Yeah there is a cyan and a lime. I thought the lime was on the white channel. Derptibbs is derp. So everything is a'ok? Link to comment
tibbsy07 Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 So everything is a'ok? I guess so? Seems fine. The fan is a bit loud, but I think I'm only noticing it because I turned off the room fan which is loud. Coral are unhappy with the recent water change, but they'll be fine. Link to comment
jtgrimes Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Wasnt sure if this would be a good place to post this..but I will be receiving a nano box from dave soon, and I will be going from PC lighting to LED. Was seeing what you all would recommend at first setting wise. Currently I run moonlights from 7am-9am, Full Light 9am-9pm and moonlight again 9pm-11pm. As for the LED, I was going to do same moonlight 7am-9am, Sunrise?9am-12pm. Full light 12pm-6pm and then sunset 6pm to 9pm. I just need to know what type of intensity etc I should start out with? I have various softies, lps, and a birdsnest up top all doing well. Thanks for any input. Link to comment
basser1 Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Try 120 blue and 90 white as a start. Link to comment
jtgrimes Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Try 120 blue and 90 white as a start. Thanks for the input Basser1! If anyone else has some feedback or experience with this as well, feel free to chime in. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 As has been repeated in this and other threads, starting low and slow is the best option First what you want to do is find what color light looks best to you. Set both channels to 255/255 (full on), and then adjust the white or blue channel up or down to find what is most pleasing to your eyes. This is the ratio that you will aim for. Let's say that you end up with white at 180 and blue at 255. So, for instance, you'll want your ramp to start at 9AM, do the maximum ramp time of 180 minutes, and set your max intensity to around 35% of the numbers listed above as your maximum preferred color, then the ramp down for the same 180 mins and the end time to be 9PM (or, say, if you work during the day and are at home in the evenings and don't go to be until late, you can set your photoperiod accordingly, mine is from around 11-11 since I'm home during the week only after ~5PM). Every week you can raise the peak percentage by around 5% (~13 of 255) on each channel. Be sure to pay attention to your corals - if they are losing color and turning more brown, then you can raise it by 10% that week; if they are losing color and turning lighter, then lower the light by 5% immediately and observe for at least a week to ensure that your corals do not continue to bleach, which will kill them. If you have dedicated moonlights, then adjust that channel to max out during the day (might as well use it to the fullest!) and then for night PWM set it to 30 and then turn on moonphase, this will auto adjust the intensity so you won't need to worry about it again. If you do not have dedicated moonlights, then set either your 'white' or 'blue' channel to PWM 1 or 2 (not %, out of 255) and leave moonphase off. Link to comment
Justind823 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I'm considering getting this controller for my light but I do have one question about the moonlight control. When I manually dim a channel down all the way with the potentiometer is that the dimmest the channel goes or is it capable of going lower when used with this controller? Link to comment
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