Nano Box Settings : Share your settings for your Storm controller

[itsyahboydanny]

 

I have a fusion 10 g tank and tried using blue: 195 and white: 50, because I read that high blue and low white favors growth of coralline algae. I had noticeable coral growth over a three week period, and some increase in coralline on the rocks. However, my bright green GSPs turned a pale shade of green. So over a period of several weeks I gradually kicked up my white setting to 80. The GSPs are slowly greening up, but I'm not sure if the GSPs went pale because of the low white light or because of a brief period of low salinity. Water parameters also effect coral colors.

 

I'll eventually go to blue: 200 and white: 85 and hold it there for at least 4 months and then evaluate the results.

 

since my last post i've turned it up to 200 - 95, been there for probably a month. everything is doing great, I even have a clam in there.

[Livewreck]

I'm wrestling with the settings on my Nano Box Mini Tide. Dave has often remarked that one should choose the settings that are pleasing to one's eye; however, the human eye's perception of light and a coral's requirement for light can be two entirely different matters.

 

I have an IM Fusion 10 gallon, and I have 8 SPS corals in my tank. The tank is only 2 months old, but I started it with "old" well seasoned premium live rock, and moved some corals in from an older, established tank into this one. My water parameters have been stabile for nearly the entire two months. PO4 < .25 and NO3 is 5 or less. Alk = 8.3 dKH, Ca = 420, Mg = 1350. Salinity = 35 ppm. I use an MP10-QD for added flow.

From what I've read, there is more than just the amount and quality of lighting that determines how SPS colors up, and they include nutrient level and water flow. I've also read that it can take up to 6 months (or more) for corals to adjust to a new environment, and that they won't color up and grow until then. Furthermore, different families of SPS corals have their own lighting requirements and what is ideal for one colony may be detrimental to another.

But here's the rub: in a small 10 tank with a water column of only 11 inches, there is very little difference in the amount and quality of light between the top, middle, and bottom of the tank - especially in my tank where the difference in height between the top of my live rock and the top of my sand bed is only 6 inches. No matter where I place my corals, they all get about the same lighting.

As far as I can tell, most Nano Box owners use settings somewhere in the range of:

CH1: 140

CH2: 100

My Nano Box settings are:

CH1: 195

CH2: 80

Under those settings, my Monti cap. variety is starting to bleach, but my Monti digitata is brown. (It should be a soft pinkish purple.) The red, and purple Stylophora are nicely colored, but my blue Stylo is brown. One Ponape bird's net looks good... another, smaller, newer one, is bleaching. My thick branch pink birds nest is gorgeous. The thick branch green birds nest is OK, but not nearly as nicely colored as the pink one is. Finally, my GSPs have turned from a bright green to a pale green.

My guess is that I'll have to shade the small Ponape birds nest and the Monti cap. until they adjust to the current conditions, but then I'll have to gradually increase CH1 to at least 225 or so, and increase CH2 to about 100 so the brown corals and pale GPS can color up. (I'm guessing on those higher mungers only because of the intense lighting I see at LFS. His corals are kept under MH lights.) Or does anyone here think my corals will color up under my current settings?

I suppose that only time will tell. I'll report back here every few months to let you know how the corals are doing. In the meantime, please fell free to chime in, because while I am never in doubt, I know am often wrong.

(The reason for the newly added piece of white, "old" live rock is not germane to this discussion.)

[Horerczy]

If you're having bleaching issues turn the lights down then work your way back up slowly.

[Livewreck]

If you're having bleaching issues turn the lights down then work your way back up slowly.

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it; but your suggestion is too narrow in scope for my situation.

 

The standard advice is: bleaching .... lower lighting; browning ..... increase lighting. However, as I noted in my original post, in my tank some of my SPS corals are bleaching while others are browning out - all at about the same distance from my light. Other corals have excellent color, also at about the same distance from the light. (And I included the photo to illustrate those facts.)

 

If I follow the standard advice, my bleaching corals might darken and color up, my brown corals will remain brown (until I start increasing the light), and my well colored corals will likely lose color and brown out until I start increasing the light.

 

I think my solution of shading only those corals that are bleaching, and slowly increasing - not decreasing - the light will provide optimum results.

 

Does anyone think my goal of CH1: = 225 and CH2: = 100 will wind up burning my corals? I.e., with the Nano Box, how much light is too much light? Has anyone run a small ~ 10g tank under more intense settings than the typical ranges reported here?

[DaveFason]

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it; but your suggestion is too narrow in scope for my situation.

 

The standard advice is: bleaching .... lower lighting; browning ..... increase lighting. However, as I noted in my original post, in my tank some of my SPS corals are bleaching while others are browning out - all at about the same distance from my light. Other corals have excellent color, also at about the same distance from the light. (And I included the photo to illustrate those facts.)

 

If I follow the standard advice, my bleaching corals might darken and color up, my brown corals will remain brown (until I start increasing the light), and my well colored corals will likely lose color and brown out until I start increasing the light.

 

I think my solution of shading only those corals that are bleaching, and slowly increasing - not decreasing - the light will provide optimum results.

 

Does anyone think my goal of CH1: = 225 and CH2: = 100 will wind up burning my corals? I.e., with the Nano Box, how much light is too much light? Has anyone run a small ~ 10g tank under more intense settings than the typical ranges reported here?

I have run every unit with different settings with multiple results. You have to take in equations of water clarity, coral placement, etc.

 

I have a Montipora Setosa 22" away from light growing and color is fine. While on other tanks you would need it higher.

 

Can you possibly lower the bleaching corals down, then turn the light up for the ones browning out?

 

-Dave

[Livewreck]

Thanks for the reply, Dave. When allowing for future growth, I have no other place to put the bleaching corals. But as I noted, I can shade them quite easily. Small strips of baker's parchment paper placed on the screen top cuts back on the light by about 15%.

 

Regardless, as I noted, different corals at the same height (plus or minus an inch) show different results ranging from bleaching, to perfect colors, to browning out. As far as I know, the browning might be due to water parameters and not to the light level. I don't really know. You might say I'm in the dark.

 

Anyway, do you think working slowly up to the settings I mentioned will be too much for my 10 g nano? (Ch1 = 225 and CH2 = 100)

[Ksyackel]

I know this is a pretty basic question, but what are the equivalent percentage values for the storm controller? For example blue channel 125 and white channel 90 would be what percentage output for each channel? Thanks.

[Livewreck]

As I understand it, the numbers are based on a range form 0 to 255, so a setting of 125 = 49% of the light's maximum output capability, and a setting of 90 = 35%.

[Ksyackel]

As I understand it, the numbers are based on a range form 0 to 255, so a setting of 125 = 49% of the light's maximum output capability, and a setting of 90 = 35%.

Perfect. Thanks.

[Livewreck]

Update: I solved the problem I was having with brown SPS corals. The solution was rather simple: I got rid of them... and most of my other SPS corals as well. I kept two Bird's Nest corals and they are fine.

 

My tank has been doing great for the past month. One reason, I'm sure, is that I bought an Apex Jr. and a 2-part dosing system from BRS. My Alk and Calcium levels are now nearly rock steady. Other params are excellent as well.

 

Settings:

CH 1 = 200

CH 2 = 80

 

 

Goby in Paradise:

[DaveFason]

Update: I solved the problem I was having with brown SPS corals. The solution was rather simple: I got rid of them... and most of my other SPS corals as well. I kept two Bird's Nest corals and they are fine.

 

My tank has been doing great for the past month. One reason, I'm sure, is that I bought an Apex Jr. and a 2-part dosing system from BRS. My Alk and Calcium levels are now nearly rock steady. Other params are excellent as well.

 

Settings:

CH 1 = 200

CH 2 = 80

 

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Goby in Paradise:

 

 

 

Great little tank. Try some SPS again once you have it all dialed in.

 

-Dave

[Livewreck]

Thanks Dave.

 

I'm sure that the SPS would have colored up, given more time, now that my water parameters are so good. The real reason I changed out my SPS for softies is that I wanted more motion in my tank. As I wrote on my build thread, "...my tank lacked motion. I have only one fish (a yellow clown goby) and it doesn't swim around, except to feed. Replacing SPS for soft corals provided more movement in the currents and makes the tank "come alive." I think SPS corals are beautiful - especially Acroporas - and I love SPS tanks that have at least a few sizable fish to provide motion in the tank. IMO, an SPS only tank is like a beautiful Still Life painting. I'm not knocking it. I just prefer a tank that doesn't require a second look to know that it's alive.

[BJV]

Hi All,
Got a question: Can someone tell me what the percent number stand for on my storm controller?
Check the photo below.
Thanks,
Barry

[jedimasterben]

Hi All,

Got a question: Can someone tell me what the percent number stand for on my storm controller?

Check the photo below.

Thanks,

Barry

Strom.jpg

It's at 78% intensity?

[DaveFason]

Hi All,

Got a question: Can someone tell me what the percent number stand for on my storm controller?

Check the photo below.

Thanks,

Barry

Strom.jpg

That is the percentage of the moon phase.

-Dave

[BJV]

Thanks Dave,

How do I change it? There are is no light at night.

There use to be......

Barry

[jedimasterben]

Thanks Dave,

How do I change it? There are is no light at night.

There use to be......

Barry

What is moonlight set to as far as intensity? The LEDs won't always light up at lower settings. Right now your controller is at 78% of what you set as the maximum moonlight intensity.

[BJV]

I guess I am lost... Where do find the moonlight setting. All I can see on the controller is a setting saying

the moonlight is on.

Barry

[jedimasterben]

I guess I am lost... Where do find the moonlight setting. All I can see on the controller is a setting saying

the moonlight is on.

Barry

http://coralux.net/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/downloadables/Storm-Controller-Manual.pdf

 

Page 3 and 5 discuss Night and Moonphase options.

[BJV]

Thanks for your help. I have read the manual till I am blue in the face. One thing, I had to unplug the lights from

the controller last week. Maybe I have pluged it in wrong.

Which pins do I use on the controller? Maybe I should order the Bluefish mini????

Thank again for all your help,

Barry

[jedimasterben]

Thanks for your help. I have read the manual till I am blue in the face. One thing, I had to unplug the lights from

the controller last week. Maybe I have pluged it in wrong.

Which pins do I use on the controller? Maybe I should order the Bluefish mini????

Thank again for all your help,

Barry

Use the leftmost pins on the controller.

[BJV]

That does not work. I have to skip the first pins or nothing works at all. I am begining to think

I have a major problem.

Barry

[jedimasterben]

That does not work. I have to skip the first pins or nothing works at all. I am begining to think

I have a major problem.

Barry

What do you have your channels set to? You may have set CH2 and CH3 instead of CH1 and CH2. (or however many total channels you have).

[BJV]

jedimasterben,
I don't have clue as to what my channels are set to. Everything work just fine last week.
Now on the sunrise I get no light until half way through the ramp time of 60 minutes. There is no moonlight
which there was before. I am totally lost.
I have only had these light for a few months. This is Retro kit for my Coralife Biocube 29.
My problem all started last week when I unplugged the light from the controller.
Barry

[heywooood]

jedimasterben,

I don't have clue as to what my channels are set to. Everything work just fine last week.

Now on the sunrise I get no light until half way through the ramp time of 60 minutes. There is no moonlight

which there was before. I am totally lost.

I have only had these light for a few months. This is Retro kit for my Coralife Biocube 29.

My problem all started last week when I unplugged the light from the controller.

Barry

 

Hey, did you order a dedicated moonlight channel?

If not, you probably have your night settings conflicting....something like lunar phases on with something less than 30 or 31 on the night setting for the blue channel. In this case, you would end up with some nights in the lunar cycle with no light at all.

I had a similar learning curve when I got my Quad with the storm controller, but now everything is dialled in with help from Dave and co.

Maybe PM me your settings and I can tell you what's happening...