Livewreck Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Current settings for my Mini Tide over a 4 gallon AIO reef aquarium is: Ch 1 - 185 Ch 2 - 70 Looks good and corals are growing. But I am wondering if anyone runs their Nano Box Mini to simulate standard actinic lighting something like Blue channel = 230 and White channel around 40 or 50? Decreasing the white channel should cut down on algae growth, but will such "actinic-like" settings allow for good coral growth? Link to comment
DaveFason Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Current settings for my Mini Tide over a 4 gallon AIO reef aquarium is: Ch 1 - 185 Ch 2 - 70 Looks good and corals are growing. But I am wondering if anyone runs their Nano Box Mini to simulate standard actinic lighting something like Blue channel = 230 and White channel around 40 or 50? Decreasing the white channel should cut down on algae growth, but will such "actinic-like" settings allow for good coral growth? Cranking the Tide that much for a 4G tank is a lot! Personally I would leave the blue channel were it is and if you want it a shade more blue, drop the whites. -Dave Link to comment
Acielot Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Trying out Ch1:175 Ch2:50 over a cadlights 8g Sort of like 15k. I may kick up the whites a bit Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Current settings for my Mini Tide over a 4 gallon AIO reef aquarium is: Ch 1 - 185 Ch 2 - 70 Looks good and corals are growing. But I am wondering if anyone runs their Nano Box Mini to simulate standard actinic lighting something like Blue channel = 230 and White channel around 40 or 50? Decreasing the white channel should cut down on algae growth, but will such "actinic-like" settings allow for good coral growth? Algae doesn't need 'white' light (or any of the spectra that makes it), it just needs intensity and nutrients to go with it. Eliminate the nutrients, eliminate the algae Link to comment
Livewreck Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Agree that nutrients are far more important than spectrum regarding algae growth. My primary interest is in increasing the blue to mimic 14K as I like the fluorescent look to corals. So I'll drop the whites. Thanks for the advice. Link to comment
itsyahboydanny Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 I'm running blue:200 white:35, with my tide, my tank is 10 in deep and the lights about 6 in off the water. Is this setting to crazy? Everyone seems happy in there except for a few zoas the are only opening half way and cupping upwards. Any feedback would be helpful! Thanks! Link to comment
Jorgieee Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 I have a 29 biocube retrofit and i bought cyphastrea three days ago it seems like its losing some color and i don't want it to lose color i have my lights for whites at 120 and blues at 40 its says it needs low lights what do you guys recommend? The tank 19 inches deep Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 It is all personal preference. Personally I would bump the whites up a little higher. Being that you like blue so much, max the ramp time and ramp delay on the white channel. I'm running blue:200 white:35, with my tide, my tank is 10 in deep and the lights about 6 in off the water. Is this setting to crazy? Everyone seems happy in there except for a few zoas the are only opening half way and cupping upwards. Any feedback would be helpful! Thanks! Bump this up some. 150-60/70. I have noticed some cyphastrea to be a little finicky with light. I have a 29 biocube retrofit and i bought cyphastrea three days ago it seems like its losing some color and i don't want it to lose color i have my lights for whites at 120 and blues at 40 its says it needs low lights what do you guys recommend? The tank 19 inches deep Link to comment
itsyahboydanny Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 It is all personal preference. Personally I would bump the whites up a little higher. Being that you like blue so much, max the ramp time and ramp delay on the white channel. Bump this up some. 150-60/70. I have noticed some cyphastrea to be a little finicky with light. Thanks Dave! Link to comment
Dryland Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Hey Dave, I have an order with you for a tide. I am curious about the controllers moonlight programs and possibly adding a dedicated moonlight channel. Any info is appreciated, thanks. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 Hey Dave, I have an order with you for a tide. I am curious about the controllers moonlight programs and possibly adding a dedicated moonlight channel. Any info is appreciated, thanks. Drop me an email. david@nanoboxreef.com Link to comment
xiaoxiy Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Just as an update, over the past 3 months, I've been slowly ramping my settings up. I'm now sitting at 240/240 on the equivalent of a nanobox Mini sitting over my Mr Aqua 11G. Link to comment
jeremycee Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 CH1: 110 CH2:135 My channels are backwards it seems. When i turn down channel 2 all the way and crank up channel 1 all the way up, the purple and white lights only come on. Link to comment
Dryland Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I have a mini tide with moonlight channel on the way. What settings would you guys recommend for an 8G cadlights LPS/softy tank? Link to comment
Acielot Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I have a mini tide with moonlight channel on the way. What settings would you guys recommend for an 8G cadlights LPS/softy tank? I have the cadlights 8g too. Ch1:175 and Ch2 to taste. You could probably bump it up, but my acans lobo and elegance are all happy at that level. Is the moonlight channel 3 then? Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 I have the cadlights 8g too. Ch1:175 and Ch2 to taste. You could probably bump it up, but my acans lobo and elegance are all happy at that level. Is the moonlight channel 3 then? Correct, CH3 will be moonlight. -Dave Link to comment
njasmin Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Just searching for some advise here. My tank has been doing awesome, lots of growth from the coral! My question lies here. When I go to any fish store really to pick up some frags, i notice there light setting is nowhere near as intense as I have mine set mainly with only blue lights on. Is this just for aesthetics to make the coral seem more colorful or is there a benefit to have a more dim, less intense lighting? All the tanks i have seen have successfully kept sps coral in them also. Looking for some opinions. My current settings are: Nanobox Duo w/ 3rd moonlight channel over a Nuvo 16 Blues: 140 Whites: 85 Night: 35 Link to comment
DaveFason Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Just searching for some advise here. My tank has been doing awesome, lots of growth from the coral! My question lies here. When I go to any fish store really to pick up some frags, i notice there light setting is nowhere near as intense as I have mine set mainly with only blue lights on. Is this just for aesthetics to make the coral seem more colorful or is there a benefit to have a more dim, less intense lighting? All the tanks i have seen have successfully kept sps coral in them also. Looking for some opinions. My current settings are: Nanobox Duo w/ 3rd moonlight channel over a Nuvo 16 Blues: 140 Whites: 85 Night: 35 Simply bump it up! If you are going SPS try 200 Blue, 130 whites. Every tank will be different. So start what works for you! -Dave Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 When I go to any fish store really to pick up some frags, i notice there light setting is nowhere near as intense as I have mine set mainly with only blue lights on. Unless you are measuring the output of yours and theirs with a PAR meter, there is no way that you can compare. Human eyes are incredibly bad at judging intensity. Nano Box is the only company using the Rebel ES lime and will appear magnitudes brighter to the eye than any array that does not include them. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Good information, i was not referring to PAR levels, just what visually looks more dim. Good to know though. Is there such a thing as too much light? Or if i increase to full capacity, just raise it gradually throughout a couple of days? Absolutely, corals actually can't use most of the light they receive in the wild - most corals from around 15m and up reach their photosaturation points at around 10-11AM and have to use other means to protect themselves from the excess light. If you want to raise your intensity, don't raise it more than 5% weekly, every other week being preferred, without a PAR meter. Link to comment
njasmin Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Simply bump it up! If you are going SPS try 200 Blue, 130 whites. Every tank will be different. So start what works for you! -Dave Dave, i was actually inquiring of lowering the lights, but i do not want my coral to die off as a result. Unless you are measuring the output of yours and theirs with a PAR meter, there is no way that you can compare. Human eyes are incredibly bad at judging intensity. Nano Box is the only company using the Rebel ES lime and will appear magnitudes brighter to the eye than any array that does not include them. Good information, i was not referring to PAR levels, just what visually looks more dim, makes perfect sense though. The LFS i go to builds their own lights, i know they use 3w bridgelux LEDs and I would say they only have about 40(well spread out with lenses) over a 200 gallon shallow reef type tank....they probably have more than that, i didn't sit there and count them Great information Link to comment
Chris155hp Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 The single moon led on its own distinct channel is a royal blue led or a just normal blue? And also how do you setup the storm to recognize the channel with the single moon led as the moon channel? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Most people do blue, but it can be any Rebel or Rebel ES realistically. It has its own driver and would be connected to the third channel of your controller. Link to comment
Livewreck Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 I'm running blue:200 white:35, with my tide, my tank is 10 in deep and the lights about 6 in off the water. Is this setting to crazy? Everyone seems happy in there except for a few zoas the are only opening half way and cupping upwards. Any feedback would be helpful! Thanks! I have a fusion 10 g tank and tried using blue: 195 and white: 50, because I read that high blue and low white favors growth of coralline algae. I had noticeable coral growth over a three week period, and some increase in coralline on the rocks. However, my bright green GSPs turned a pale shade of green. So over a period of several weeks I gradually kicked up my white setting to 80. The GSPs are slowly greening up, but I'm not sure if the GSPs went pale because of the low white light or because of a brief period of low salinity. Water parameters also effect coral colors. I'll eventually go to blue: 200 and white: 85 and hold it there for at least 4 months and then evaluate the results. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 I have a fusion 10 g tank and tried using blue: 195 and white: 50, because I read that high blue and low white favors growth of coralline algae. I had noticeable coral growth over a three week period, and some increase in coralline on the rocks. However, my bright green GSPs turned a pale shade of green. So over a period of several weeks I gradually kicked up my white setting to 80. The GSPs are slowly greening up, but I'm not sure if the GSPs went pale because of the low white light or because of a brief period of low salinity. Water parameters also effect coral colors. I'll eventually go to blue: 200 and white: 85 and hold it there for at least 4 months and then evaluate the results. If you had a salinity swing and just placing the light at that setting it may have shocked them. GSP is pretty hardy however. -D Link to comment
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