Alto's Dwarf Seahorses

[patback]

Hey have you seen this about killing hydroids on macroalgaes?

 

"Macro algae can be rinsed with hydrogen peroxide then rinsed in freshwater, then rinsed in saltwater to be sure no hydroids are present. Hydrogen Peroxide is very dangerous to all living critters for a limited time, however, once it breaks down into water and oxygen no lingering effects are present." From World of Seahorses

 

I wonder if hydrogen peroxide really works that well. From what I've seen, the people who write World of Seahorses seem to know their stuff when it comes to seahorses. Do you know anything about this as a treatment instead of 3 days in fenbendazole?

I too wonder how well that will work.

[Whys]

Alto, I will be done sterilizing my system soon and will need to restart my cycle. I'm looking into your recommendations for Dr. Tim's nitrifying bacteria, but have a couple questions. Forgive me if you've answered any of this earlier in the thread.

 

I see there are 2 saltwater options for Dr. Tim's. One claims to be specifically formulated for Dwarf seahorse tanks. The other claims to contain a "special carrier" to extend shelf life.

 

First, do you know what makes the former specific to Dwarf seahorse tanks? I assume there is an additive, but what is it? It mentions it helps prevent "harmful" bacteria from growing. What kind of bacteria would that be and does that mean it contains an anti-microbial?

 

As to the latter, any idea what the "special carrier" might be? Again, sounds like an additive and I'd like to know what it is before I consider adding it.

 

Lastly, do you know if there is a plain Dr. Tim's without any additives?

[altolamprologus]

Hey have you seen this about killing hydroids on macroalgaes?

 

"Macro algae can be rinsed with hydrogen peroxide then rinsed in freshwater, then rinsed in saltwater to be sure no hydroids are present. Hydrogen Peroxide is very dangerous to all living critters for a limited time, however, once it breaks down into water and oxygen no lingering effects are present." From World of Seahorses

 

I wonder if hydrogen peroxide really works that well. From what I've seen, the people who write World of Seahorses seem to know their stuff when it comes to seahorses. Do you know anything about this as a treatment instead of 3 days in fenbendazole?

I haven't heard that, but it sounds like it would work. Having used H2O2 on hair algae and GSP (accidentally), I can say it's pretty powerful stuff. I don't doubt it would kill the hydroids, but I'm concerned it might kill the algae too.

 

I'm adding macros to the tank this week so I'll run some tests using peroxide on some small pieces of algae that I know have hydroids on them.

 

Alto, I will be done sterilizing my system soon and will need to restart my cycle. I'm looking into your recommendations for Dr. Tim's nitrifying bacteria, but have a couple questions. Forgive me if you've answered any of this earlier in the thread.

 

I see there are 2 saltwater options for Dr. Tim's. One claims to be specifically formulated for Dwarf seahorse tanks. The other claims to contain a "special carrier" to extend shelf life.

 

First, do you know what makes the former specific to Dwarf seahorse tanks? I assume there is an additive, but what is it? It mentions it helps prevent "harmful" bacteria from growing. What kind of bacteria would that be and does that mean it contains an anti-microbial?

 

As to the latter, any idea what the "special carrier" might be? Again, sounds like an additive and I'd like to know what it is before I consider adding it.

 

Lastly, do you know if there is a plain Dr. Tim's without any additives?

I wish I knew the answers. When I bought mine, I was wondering why there are different formulas and I couldn't find a single place online that explained the differences. I bought the one for seahorses but I honestly don't know exactly what makes it different. I assume the one with an extended shelf life has a preservative that forces the bacteria into a dormant state, but as for the additive in the seahorse formula, your guess is as good as mine.

 

I believe this is the plain one

[Felicia]

I haven't heard that, but it sounds like it would work. Having used H2O2 on hair algae and GSP (accidentally), I can say it's pretty powerful stuff. I don't doubt it would kill the hydroids, but I'm concerned it might kill the algae too.

 

I'm adding macros to the tank this week so I'll run some tests using peroxide on some small pieces of algae that I know have hydroids on them.

I'm thinking the H2O2 would definitely kill the hydroids and I've even got access to high concentration H2O2 in my lab if needed, but I'm also worried about how that would effect the macro algae. Maybe a quick dip is enough to kill the hydroids without harming the macros.

 

I don't actually have any visible hydroids to experiment on or I would. Let me know how you peroxide tests go, because if that works, it would be better than having to treat with fenbendazole for 3 full days.

[Whys]

I believe this is the plain one

That's what I'm looking for! Thanks.

 

Let me know how you peroxide tests go, because if that works, it would be better than having to treat with fenbendazole for 3 full days.

Peroxide treatment is too new to the hobby to find anything on it for colonial hydroids, so this is cutting edge research here. I don't have any experience with peroxide myself, so I've been hoping someone else would try it, and I'm definitely interested to see how it goes. That said, what little anecdotal evidence I could turn up was specific to digitate hydroids. According to their description, it didn't even retract. It just sat there, fizzing away, completely unfazed. :/

[yoshii]

I'm adding macros to the tank this week so I'll run some tests using peroxide on some small pieces of algae that I know have hydroids on them.

You can also try it on that evil giant hydroid colony at ATL ;D

[brandon429]

If any direct dip of any dilution peroxide -doesn't- kill any macro then our whole thread is shot...

 

I'm flatly amazed someone was able to dip and only kill an epibiont and not the whole macro

[Whys]

...epibiont...

I really like your use of vocab. I feel like I learn a new word from you daily.

[altolamprologus]

Well I just dipped some hydroid-covered Titanophora sp. algae. I used 3% peroxide diluted to 1 part peroxide, 2 parts tank water. I used 3 pieces of algae; one was dipped for 5 seconds, one for 15 seconds, and one for 30 seconds. Then they were rinsed and put back in the tank. It will take about a day to see if the algae is affected, but so far the hydroids look intact. They retracted while in the dip, but are now open.

 

I also began the fenbenzadole bath on some Codium sp, red Gracilaria, and Botrycladia sp. There were no visible hydroids present on any of them, so the only thing I'm watching out for is them dying from the water getting too cold

[Felicia]

Is there reason you can't run a heater in the fenbendazole dip water? I figured I'd set up one of my 5 gallon buckets with saltwater, fenbendazole, a powerhead, and a heater for the 3 day macroalgae dip.

[altolamprologus]

Is there reason you can't run a heater in the fenbendazole dip water? I figured I'd set up one of my 5 gallon buckets with saltwater, fenbendazole, a powerhead, and a heater for the 3 day macroalgae dip.

The dwarf tank stays at room temp (68-74) so if the macros can't handle room temp water during the dip, I know they won't be able to handle being in the dwarf tank.

[Whys]

Also, the fen will get into the heater and powerhead. Not reusable for much else after that.

[altolamprologus]

Also, the fen will get into the heater and powerhead. Not reusable for much else after that.

Oh yes, good point. I'm being super cautious with that stuff. I washed my hands like 6 times after using it before I put my hands in my tanks.

[Euphyllia]

Oh yes, good point. I'm being super cautious with that stuff. I washed my hands like 6 times after using it before I put my hands in my tanks.

 

Did you use soap? That could get into the tank too.

[altolamprologus]

Did you use soap? That could get into the tank too.

No I scrub with hot water. When I do use soap, I rinse for several minutes afterward.

[Euphyllia]

No I scrub with hot water. When I do use soap, I rinse for several minutes afterward.

 

Wow! You're careful.

 

I just washed with soap and scrubbed really hard... Maybe for ten seconds.

[altolamprologus]

Wow! You're careful.

 

I just washed with soap and scrubbed really hard... Maybe for ten seconds.

Well maybe not several minutes, but at least one full minute just to make sure all the soap is long gone. I don't like to take any chances.

[Psychosis]

Reefing > Glorified gardening.

 

/thread trash and debate.

[Euphyllia]

Reefing > Glorified gardening.

 

/thread trash and debate.

 

Reefing = (waste of time+money²)

(Waste of time+money²) + Nepenthes = Happiness

√(Waste of time+money²) + Nepenthes = √Happiness

(Waste of time+money) + Nepenthes = √Happiness

- (Waste of time+money) -(Waste of time+money)

Nepenthes = √Happiness-(waste of time+money)

 

Your mind... blown.

[altolamprologus]

No need to argue....

 

 

Nice maths Euphy

[Felicia]

The dwarf tank stays at room temp (68-74) so if the macros can't handle room temp water during the dip, I know they won't be able to handle being in the dwarf tank.

 

Also, the fen will get into the heater and powerhead. Not reusable for much else after that.

 

Both very valid points. I hadn't really though about that with the macros in the room temperature tank. Mine seems to be sitting right at 70, so hopefully they can handle that.

[Psychosis]

I had a very eloquent and touching reply thought up, but I'll ask what you're doing on a reefing board, if a potted plant is superior, instead. "You know people here" isn't a valid answer.

 

Sorry Alto, I just can't resist some times.

 

Any way, I can attest to H202's effectiveness at Macro eradication, but I can't say I've ever seen a negative effect on hydroids. It's a shame, because that would be a great way to include some coral in the display (hitch friendly, of course.)

[altolamprologus]

Both very valid points. I hadn't really though about that with the macros in the room temperature tank. Mine seems to be sitting right at 70, so hopefully they can handle that.

I spoke with a guy from GCE and he told me of a few common macros that would do well at that temp. I also know eucheuma and codium would be good. I'm trying a few others also, but only small pieces in case they die.

 

I had a very eloquent and touching reply thought up, but I'll ask what you're doing on a reefing board, if a potted plant is superior, instead. "You know people here" isn't a valid answer.

 

Sorry Alto, I just can't resist some times.

 

Any way, I can attest to H202's effectiveness at Macro eradication, but I can't say I've ever seen a negative effect on hydroids. It's a shame, because that would be a great way to include some coral in the display (hitch friendly, of course.)

I still wouldn't out corals in there. Dwarfs are just too sensitive to stings.

[Psychosis]

Tank...with no coral?

 

A cold chill just ran up my spine. Surely Zoanthids, clove polyps, and leathers would have no ill affect on them?

[patback]

My lfs has a dwarf in its frag tank with softies and Lps. I don't know if they are completely stupid, or figured somthing out the rest of us haven't. I know for a fact it's been there for atleast 2 weeks, and next time I go I want to see if it's still alive.