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Coral Vue Hydros

MJ's 75 Gallons of Schnozberries


Militant Jurist

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Yeah, a 30 long is probably the biggest single tank going in there.

 

MJ, I have a dual sump/fuge setup on the 180. I ran it this way on the old 125 too. I haven't read everything you've talked about using different valves and such, but I will say I'd avoid most of them. I put a ball valve and a union in each pipe for emergency shutoffs and for the easy disconnect point, much more complicated than that and its asking for trouble IMO.

 

The 125 had a single drain that went to a 20-high fuge. The 20 high was drilled and drained to the 20 long sump that had the heaters, a few spare rocks, the skimmer, and the return pump.

 

The 180, with it's dual overflows will be very similar. Right overflow drains to 20h fuge. Fuge and left overflow drain to 30 long sump containing heaters, skimmer, and return pump.

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Militant Jurist

I guess I will need to bust out a tape measure before looking for a new sump. Skillz, I'm glad to know that you were able to get something similar going! Since it doesn't sound like it's a major flood risk, I think I will go with the two part solution, unless a bigger tank will fit in there. I think I'll stick to the KISS approach, and just use a ball valve for emergencies. I think I can place the tank overflow high enough that I can limit the amount of water draining from the tank into the sump. That should prevent overflows, without having to worry about remembering to turn a valve. I'll have to do some more planning tonight, to see how high the hole in the rubbermaid and 15g should be placed, to allow for efficient operation.

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the back flow from the display can be minamized with well placed siphion breaks, and the overflows placement. should eleimante the need for check valve.

 

try something like this.

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use jg fittings to control the flow thru the break.

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Militant Jurist

Now that I think about it, the return line already has a siphon break, courtesy of Richie. I had previously taped it over and used a check value instead, because the break tended to spray when the pump was turned back on. It was on the side of the tank, so the water sprayed over the back. However, this time it would be placed in a different position, so the spray will be no problem. Looks like the siphon break is back in play, and the check valve is out!

 

I'm supposed to be hanging out with my youngest brother tonight, but it that doesn't happen, I might be moving the rest of the LR and coral from the 20L to the 75. If that happens, the overflow and rubbermaid will be coming down as well. That will be the first test of whether the overflow placement alone will be enough to prevent flooding. fingerscrossed

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with enough time and planing should be able to get the only backflow to be from the plumbing.

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And actually, I used a 20 high fuge and a 20 gallon rubbermaid sump for awhile. I like the dual-tank approach because you don't have to deal with baffles, and thus permanently relegate a tank to sump duty, but you still only get evaporation from the lower sump. I like how my fuge stays full.

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Militant Jurist

I'm feeling much better about this now. The rubbermaid should be very nice for getting the pod production running. The sump also has mangroves and cheato... I'm actually thinking about running this tank skimmerless, since the mangroves barely had enough junk to grow in the skimmerless 20L.

 

And actually, I used a 20 high fuge and a 20 gallon rubbermaid sump for awhile. I like the dual-tank approach because you don't have to deal with baffles, and thus permanently relegate a tank to sump duty, but you still only get evaporation from the lower sump. I like how my fuge stays full.

 

Exactly!

 

You know... I wonder if I could fit two rubbermaids under the tank? That would eliminate the height differences and the hassle of finding a glass shop to drill the tank. I could just drill both myself, and it would be a simple matter of adding bulkheads and a union between.

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normally the siphion break should be just be low the water line to prevent asperation and bubbles. but the display will drain to this point. wonder why it was on the back og the tank. if doing the jg fittings have them lead into the drain or overflow, doesent really matter were as long as its spraing all over the place.

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Militant Jurist
normally the siphion break should be just be low the water line to prevent asperation and bubbles. but the display will drain to this point. wonder why it was on the back og the tank. if doing the jg fittings have them lead into the drain or overflow, doesent really matter were as long as its spraing all over the place.

 

Well, I placed the return nozzle with the break on the middle of the side pane of the tank. The break seemed to have a piece of plastic nubbinz left in the break from the drill, and that angled the sprayed at about 45 degrees from the surface. That gave enough arc for a decent spray out of the tank. On the 75, it will be on the back wall of the tank, and the spray will just go harmlessly back into the tank. Hopefully. ;)

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not sure how many returns youer going to have but each needs to have a break.

could use a pocket knife or some thing to rederecte the spray maby.

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Militant Jurist
not sure how many returns youer going to have but each needs to have a break.

 

I'll just be having one. I'm just going to take the overflow and the single return from the 20L and use it for the 75. Trying to minimize expenses where I can. ;)

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understand that one, this tanks get unbaleaveably spencive as the grow in size.

 

 

 

any updates on dad?

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Militant Jurist
understand that one, this tanks get unbaleaveably spencive as the grow in size.

 

Very true! So far, I've been able to recycle a lot, and I've only had to buy the MP40, the T5HO fixture, and the rocks.

 

any updates on dad?

 

He's actually doing pretty well. He's been up and moving around the house a lot, and he hasn't needed much of his pain meds. He even felt up to going to my grandparents' house over the weekend, for a belated easter dinner. He's on a restricted diet for now, but he doesn't mind that, because he still hasn't completely gotten his appetite back yet.

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Happy dad is doing better. That is so awesome. Sorry I have no input on valves and such. I have them on mine. I have not had a problem with it.

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Militant Jurist

Thanks everyone! I'm actually going to call up to the house tonight, just to check in on him again. Hopefully the puzzles are helping to keep him somewhat sane!

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Militant Jurist

Gotta love it when these kinds of dilemmas arise:

 

A local reefer has a few monti cap frags for sale, at $10 and $15 per. The $15 frag is 6" x 9" (yeah, a real frag, right?) Here's the drag: the 29g is currently off limits, on account of the nudis. I'm kind of worried about the 75, because before I realized I had nudis, I moved into it the skeleton of the digi that was the first casualty of the nudis. Do you think that there might still be eggs or nudis on that skeleton? It sat it my dark sump for about a month between death and the move.

 

I'm also concerned about whether the 75g is ready for an SPS like the cap. So, do I take the chance and put the frag/colony in the 75? Or, do I continue to run the established, but soon to be sumpless and rockless, 20L and let it chill there for another month or so until the 75 is more established and more likely to be certainly nudi free?

 

I suppose that if I do put it in the 75 and there are indeed nudis there, I would just end up treating it with potassium permanganate like the rest will be getting anyways.

 

What do ya'll think I should do?

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Militant Jurist

Apparently, these "frags" will be big enough that I was told to bring a 5 gallon bucket to pick up the two frags! Hm.... what to do, what to do.... to the 75 or the 20... :unsure:

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Apparently, these "frags" will be big enough that I was told to bring a 5 gallon bucket to pick up the two frags! Hm.... what to do, what to do.... to the 75 or the 20... :unsure:

 

The 20 for now.

And pics pls! :)

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Needreefunds
Apparently, these "frags" will be big enough that I was told to bring a 5 gallon bucket to pick up the two frags! Hm.... what to do, what to do.... to the 75 or the 20... :unsure:

Gees, tough call huh? Do you have stuffs to keep the 20 running perhaps with a bit of rock and flow?

 

I mean, as you said worst case is you treat the 75, but aren't we talking about needing quite a bit more medication then?

 

Is the 20 "clean" right now? :huh:

 

lol, Lisa snuck in there huh? as you can tell, I agree with her. :happy:

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Militant Jurist
The 20 for now.

And pics pls! :)

 

Yeah, I'm leaning more and more that way. Maybe I can move only the one rock, and leave the rest for now. I could move just the corals, and leave most of the rock. Then, the montis will have a nice place to stay. Might make an eggcrate rack for them to sit up on...

 

 

Gees, tough call huh? Do you have stuffs to keep the 20 running perhaps with a bit of rock and flow?

 

I mean, as you said worst case is you treat the 75, but aren't we talking about needing quite a bit more medication then?

 

Is the 20 "clean" right now? :huh:

 

lol, Lisa snuck in there huh? as you can tell, I agree with her. :happy:

 

Well, I really can't treat the tank with the potassium. It's a major oxidizer, and would kill off everything probably. The 20L is the only completely safe tank. Nothing has gone in it, coral or rock-wise, for a long time. I may just leave the current system exactly as is. At least it's a bit more dirty that the 75, atm, so the cheato and mangroves are better off. I'm also thinking about finding someone local to share an order with LA, so that I can add fish a few at a time, rather than one large order in a month and a half or so. If I go with a small early order, I might get a wrasse known to eat the nudis. The sixline is supposed to do a decent job, so he's in the 29 now. The other wrasse would go in the 75, and in a month or two, hopefully the 75 would be safe for montis.

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15$ for 9 inches of monti cap is a steal! I'd play it safe and put it in the 20L Better to have it in a cramped space than possibly endanger it.

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