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T. crocea in jbj 12dx, stock lights


il0vepez

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Marine snow is trash only DTs will work and they have to be fed out of the tank for thesake of the main tank. Please stop posting at this thread it makes a lot of people mad

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Yeah, Marine Snow is garbage. Pretty much ANY bottled phyto is going to be trash. DT's and fresh-cultured phyto are great, as well as that "bioplankton" $20 a bottle stuff... :

 

Yeah, I saw FEMA the unicorn. Fun-neh.

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Originally posted by Caesar777

Yeah, Marine Snow is garbage. Pretty much ANY bottled phyto is going to be trash. DT's and fresh-cultured phyto are great, as well as that "bioplankton" $20 a bottle stuff... :

 

Yeah, I saw FEMA the unicorn. Fun-neh.

 

hey Ceaser777....i thought you said good bye to this thread..lol

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Originally posted by Caesar777

Look...It's simple transfer of energy. LED's just don't put off much energy. Simple.

 

Not sure what is so simple about photosynthesis...

 

Also, you may want to read up on the LEDs I'm talking about (luxeon cyan 18 flood). If I can figure out a way to effectively cool them, then it should have a very large amount of light that will excite the peridinin in crocea's mantle.

 

My UV sterilizer on my FW setup puts off a ###### ton of energy. Is it an effective light for my tank? Again, its not a simple matter of energy transfer. It's about a highly tuned, insanely efficient, complicated mechanism that uses light to create the buildings blocks of life. If it were about energy alone, and not largely about the creation of structure from disorder, then my UV sterilizer light would be above my nano right now.

 

Also, my clam is starting to show more blues and for the first time green. Is that a good sign, or a bad sign?

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After reading this thread, I really want the addition of a clam in my tank...I do of course have much more lighting than the stock 12g :P

 

I just started using DT's phyto...and that stuff smells like garbage mixed with poop. I don't like how it makes my tank hazy for quite a while after adding it so now I add it during the night cycle. I already feed my acans and dendros outside of the tank sometimes...they take mysis so it's easy to spot feed w/o contaminating the tank but clams should be taken out? Will they still accept food after being taken out? How can you tell when their eating...what indicates them feeding? (might be wrong thread to be asking this and yes I'm all over the search button after this post)

 

TIA

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ilovepex... You're being foolish. You know damn well what I mean. You just like to argue. I can't help but not leave this thread alone....Curiosity to see how long it takes for the clam to finally go. Eh.

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Caesar:

 

Actually, I have no clue what you're talking about.

 

Snoop:

 

Possibly, you could simply stop posting on this thread and ignore me. I'm quite proud that you have the courage to insult me on threads I created instead of talking bad about me in completely unrelated threads, that you believe I do not read.

 

I hope a moderator removes both of your posts, and I hope you learn to contribute in a more mature manner.

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Originally posted by shao-lin nano

After reading this thread, I really want the addition of a clam in my tank...I do of course have much more lighting than the stock 12g :P  

 

I just started using DT's phyto...and that stuff smells like garbage mixed with poop.  I don't like how it makes my tank hazy for quite a while after adding it so now I add it during the night cycle.  I already feed my acans and dendros outside of the tank sometimes...they take mysis so it's easy to spot feed w/o contaminating the tank but clams should be taken out?  Will they still accept food after being taken out? How can you tell when their eating...what indicates them feeding?  (might be wrong thread to be asking this and yes I'm all over the search button after this post)

 

TIA

 

That's not normal. It shouldn't smell like crap or cloud your tank. If it clouds your tank, maybe you are using way too much. Also if it smell bad, like rotten eggs, then that means it is bad. Your keeping it in the fridge right?

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definately going to die, I have a Standard Nano with about 48 watts just like you (retrofit)...my tank has been going for 1 year and 8 months now and i tried one about 2 months ago, within a month...DEAD, i was ####ed and so will you be...sorry dude...kiss it goodbye if you weould like, i wouldnt take bets if i were you...you probably already spent enough on the clam.

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Ceasar777 I apologize ! I now know why you bashed Ilovepez in another thread I ask you about!

Snoop..... NO! a hermit CAN NOT PASS THROUGH A CLAMS BIVALVE PASSAGE WAY!!

IlovePez......

read this...and shad ap! LOL!

The mantle of tridacnid clams contain zooxanthellae so they require strong light sources. The clams with blue mantles (crocea, gigas) require more light than those with brown mantles. This is because they occur in shallower water and the blue color of the mantle acts as a light filter. Those with brown mantles are also generally easier to keep. It has also been found that smaller clams require less light than larger ones.

 

Clams also require calcium (at least 280 mg/l but preferably up to 480 mg/l), strontium, and iodine for enhanced growth and color.

 

Some fish, namely wrasses, should be watched when put into a tank containing tridacna clams. The Twin Spot Wrasse (Coris aygula) and the Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius) have been known to attack and eat clams. Other predators include large crabs, some shrimp (Marble shrimp; Saron marmoratus, Buffalo shrimp; Saron sp., rarely the Cleaner shrimp, Lysmata amboinensis), and parasitic snails that are usually present on the clam when you buy it.

 

Tridacnid clams are not a single species of clam but many that make up and entire species.

derasa, giga, maxima, crocea,hippopus, and squamosa.

THEY ALL REQUIRE SPOT FEEDING. THEY ALL REQUIRE HIGHLITHING CONDITIONS. PERIOD.

When people state that they have kept clams alive in low light conditions such as pcs they are failing to mention that they were kept in a shallow tank with a massive wattage to gallon ratio.

darasa clams are the ONLY clams that would do FAIRLY well in moderate lighting conditions.

this is because they are more of a heavy filter feeder than a light lover. BUT THEY TOO NEED HIGH LIGHTING. This is because even with corals found on the reef slope in as deep as 30 feet of water pcs in most cases CAN NOT supply the strength of lighting needed that the sun provides in the wild. MH and from what I am leaning about them recently, T5HO are the closest match you will find period.

As stated clams with brown matels or brown 'ish mantels have less zooxanthellae living in thier mantel and rely more on food than light. ( BUT THEY STILL NEED LIGHT!!!!).

MANY if not ALL people that keep clams here are also failing to mention that they actualy remove the clam, place it in a container of tank water and phyto. Sit it under a light source so it will open up and feed until the water begins to clear.

As well These same people fail to mention they have had thier tanks set up for more than 8 months in most cases before they atempted a clam.

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No it wont period regaurdless of size with out killing the clam dude.

Do you know what is inside the valve? A series of inticate web like filters that filter out phyto and micro fauna.

If tey get torn the clam can not feed and will die period.

 

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do the research you keep telling us all you have done snoop. ;) ( I know you havent by your posts homey)

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