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Found 1,307 results

  1. My tiny reef

    Positive online clam orders

    Anyone have recent positive experiences with reasonably priced online clam orders? I’m looking for a smaller sized 2-3” , nice blue colored maxima or crocea clam to add to the tank. I’m running into a lot of out of stock or a $200-$300 or more price tags. Any suggestions appreciated.
  2. I was thinking this was a Derasa when I got it ($45 for the steal), but the more I started looking into them, derasa’s have tentacles at their intake valve, right? and mine does not that I have seen yet, just added ysterday. Beginning to worry this is a giga!? Is that possible? Pics under different lighting and times of day. Help me ID if you are familiar with clams, I’ve been scouring the internet trying to get clarification.
  3. Wondering if the larger hole of its intake is 'gaping' or if it looks ok overall. The first picture was taken a day earlier than the second.
  4. risk1994

    Is my clam ok? (With pics)

    Got this derasa about a month ago, seems to be doing fine, not quite as twitchy when i put my hand over but otherwise fine. I just put in some spirulina powder in the tank which i rarely do and clam started doing this within minutes... Is this ok? Im hoping this is just feeding behaviour? His intake has never opened so wide!
  5. dling

    Is This A Problem

    The small clam seems to like to stay under the larger one. I've moved it several times and it keeps finding its way back over. I'm worried that it's not getting enough light energy. I do feed green water and other clam foods.
  6. I am looking to buy a clam, my LFS has crocea, squamose, and Maxima. Would any of these work under my lighting?
  7. Sea Pickle

    Can clams be stung by corals?

    A friend has a Goniopora frag to give me but the only space I have left is near my precious (and glorious) Squamosa clam. Anybody have experience putting clams near corals with sweeper tentacles? Thanks in advance.
  8. Isaacthedev

    How can I save my clam

    I just got this Squamosa clam last night. Here is how it looks I think it is dying or is dead... but my nasarrius snails haven't picked at it so maybe not dead yet Parameter: sg 1.0245 cal 435 alk 9.0 mg 1300 no nitrate or phosphate
  9. ezcompany

    Lighting Requirements for Clams

    Update 8/13/13 Hello everyone, decided to drop by and start hitting this thread with minor updates as technology advances and new information have been made available. I hope this will answer most of your questions in regards to providing your clam with the best lighting conditions possible. Most of the information here is based on personal experience and experiences shared by other fellow clam lovers. Supplemental information is credited to James Fatherree and his book, Giant Clams in the Sea and the Aquarium, and many thanks to Chris for his help. Please read the entire post as the information is designed to support each other. (especially the Tridacna Crocea section) Please remember: Squamosas, Deresas and Gigas WILL outgrow your tank fairly quickly! Tridacnid Lighting Requirements: Tridacna Crocea These clams require the most light of the Tridacna family. They occur in the wild mostly in very clear waters less than 15 feet in depth. (6 meters according to J.F.) The minimum recommended lighting requirement for a healthy Crocea is under a 150 watt metal halide of a reliable 14k bulb at a maximum depth of 20 inches, preferably less. To be on the safer side, a 10k bulb is recommended, and is closer to the "true" color of natural sunlight. I have seen some Croceas under 70 watts of halide, but these are normally placed high up in the tank. 70 watt bulbs are also considered by some as the least developed bulb, therefore being more inefficient in terms of their output compared to their 150 watt counter parts. 150 watts of (14k) metal halides would be the minimum “safe” amount of lighting. They will do even better under a 250 watt or 400 watt metal halide. If you are using 250 watts and above, you can place the Crocea even deeper in your tank, or even use 20k bulbs. If using T-5s, make sure the bulbs have individual parabolic reflectors on them, and the clam is placed at the upper half of your tank to be “safe”. Power Compacts will in a lot of cases NOT be adequate for Croceas. In the case of T-5 lighting, remember only the 10k bulbs produce enough photo energy for PAR on clams, and the actinics produce little to no PAR depending on color temperature. It is also noted that the longer the bulbs are, the more penetrating power they carry. Thus a Crocea should be fine in a 20 inch depth under a 36 inch fixture. Having a Crocea in a 20 inch depth under a 24 inch fixture raises doubts, as most 24 inch fixtures only have 4 T-5 bulbs under them, with 2 of them usually carrying heavy actinics or some shade of high color temperature bulbs. In this case a retrofit is recommended to be able to cram in more lower temperature bulbs. Tridacna Maxima These clams require almost as much light as Croceas if not as much. In the wild they have a maximum depth of occurrence slightly deeper than Croceas, but are again mostly found in very clean and shallow waters. The best bet is to place them in the same lighting conditions as you would light a Crocea. The “safe” amount of lighting would be under a 100 watt metal halide if they existed, so I’m going to say 150 watt 14k metal halide under 20 inches or less as well. Tridacna Squamosa Based on hobbyist experience, these clams are slightly more forgiving in terms of light than the upper two Tridacna species. In the wild however, they occur at the same depth T. Maximas do. This essentially means their lighting requirements are similar to Maximas, and should be treated as such. (with intense lighting) Assuming they are not placed in a nano due to the potential size they can reach, they will be happy under metal halides. There is no exact number for the wattage of the bulbs, but the “safe” amount of lighting would be anything more than 150 watts. I can no longer recommend Squamosas to power compact lighting, although I do know several clams that have been fine under them. (every clam is unique) T-5s are recommended over your regular power compact lighting, and a Squamosa will soak up Metal Halide lighting very happily. Tridacna Gigas Can suffice with even less amount of light compared to the Squamosa. They can thrive under most pc /vho combination, but again will be happier with lighting closer to that of its natural environment. Gigas can be found at depths up to 20 meters (J.F.) but some of the most successful aquarists have them under some type of metal halide lighting system and have recorded tremendous growth. Tridacna Deresa These clams are probably the most forgiving in terms of light than the rest of the mentioned clams. Their maximum depth of occurrence is about 25 meters (J.F.), but like the Gigas, they will be much happier with the lighting requirement given to Squamosas. Exceptions to the Rule Many people claim that Croceas and Maximas can survive under power compact lighting. These cases are far and few between, but there are certain individuals that are able to tolerate lower lightings, at which most of their counterparts would not be able to survive. Nevertheless, you should not take the risk and hope to get lucky, it is better to be prepared to give them what they will surely thrive in. It is always good to provide at least enough light of the given species to thrive in, and NOT the bare minimum you think you can get by with. Plus, it is the least we can do for our animal, as well as our responsibility as hobbyist. LEDs: LEDs have successfully been implicated to SPS and clams. The information advertised by one specific manufacturer suggests a total power output of 70 watts and above for clams. There still remain concerns on whether LED bulbs are able to maintain their PAR outputs for over a year, as well as the wavelength of light it covers. Light Acclimation There is no artificial lighting stronger than the great ball of fire in our sky, so all clams can adjust to your lighting provided they are given proper acclimation. This is especially important to prevent light shock, and gives time for the natural population of the clam’s zooxanthellae to adapt to their new habitat and photo conditions. Acclimation can easily be done using egg crate screening, or other materials that cut/diffuse lighting intensity. Remember, switching from fluorescents to metal halides is a big change, and so is switching from 150 watts to 250 watts. Light switch from any system to LEDs must be done slowly and cautiously as some have reported bleaching of coral. Bulb Life Fluorescent light bulbs need to be changed about every 10 months as they lose their intensity from old age. For metal halides, people have reported that 20ks lose their intensity at 6 months, 14ks around 8-10 months, and 10ks almost one year. I have not seen solid evidence in regards to this matter, but personally would change my 14ks every 10 months. The best way is to see if your clam has any loss in zooxanthellae. Fading or less vibrancy in the mantle is usually an indicator of this. I do not know the origin of the pictures as they were saved in my computer so I cannot credit them appropriately. The ORA photo of the Deresa is obviously credited to Ocean Reef and Aquariums. The sole purpose of this thread is for the benefit of everyone, so please understand I hope this thread has been helpful to all of you.
  10. I found a clam on the rock I got for my pico tank. It's about 2" long, and definitely alive. It's anchored firmly, and was open earlier, but shut when I tapped it. Which is interesting, because there are a lot of small, empty oystershells on the same rock. I can't get any pictures that look like anything other than a lump, it's got macroalgae all over it. I think it's a turkey wing clam by the shape. Trouble is, this is a 5gal tank. Will a clam this size do okay in here, or will it starve? Also, do they need to be fed actual particulates of food, like you'd feed a feather duster, or do they absorb straight-up nutrients from the water?
  11. MylesOleary7

    Clams seem to be emerging

    There seems to be small clams emerging in my tank where coral used to be and I don’t know if I should be worried, they emerged next to zoanthids, it’s a 29g biocube with 5 fish and 1 shrimp
  12. Well I woke up this morning to open Christmas presents and saw my derasa clam looking horrible. All of my perams check out fine and my maxima is looking great. This happened over night, it looked fine yesterday but today it looks really bad. I'm thinking its pinched mantle. It's mantle is sucked all the way into its shell and its inlet and outlet are gaping wide open. It doesn't respond to anything. It didn't even close its shell when I touch it with tweezers. I tried tKing a few pics but not sure if you can see whats going on. Is it a goner?
  13. Frozen_Reef

    Caribbean clams

    I’m looking for a smaller clam species that could go in my future 15 gallon biotope and saw Reef Cleaners gets baby Cross Barred Venus Clams (Chinoe cancellation) and baby Hard Clams (Mercenaria mercenaria). I was planning on getting one or both speices eventually. Would I treat them like a feather duster and target feed them phyto and other small particle foods? Would it also be possible to get barnacles and mussels too or is my water volume too low?
  14. I got an nice little Derasa Clam about 4 months ago. Was growing crazy, you can see the color difference in new growth. About a month ago added copepods and been adding phytoplankton daily as direction from algae barn. It starting not opening all the way and two days later, the snails are going to town on it. Possible suspects: Aiptashia X, removed CO2 scrubber summer PH dropped 0.02 roughly. Currently PH 7.87-8.2. Been fighting with dkh and Ca trying to get it up by dosing. No major swings. Increase from 7.7 to 8.8 over 6 days. Was not trying to increase that quickly, but it happened. I feel my water quality good. Calcium low at 390, but the thing was really gtowing. People commit on how much it had grown. No bristle worms best I can tell. Any ideas? If I had to bet I would put my money on the Aptashia X. Anyone have thoughts, insight, similar experience. Tank has been up and running for about 2 years. Any help appreciated. .
  15. Is it risky to keep a maxima clam for 2 months in a 16G nano? I'm in the process of setting up my new tank (50G+20G sump w/refugium). There's a maxima clam I really like, it's quite big. It's difficult to find big tridacna clams in my country, so I'm thinking of keeping it in my 16G nano for a couple of months, and relocating it my new 50G as soon as it's cycled. Is it a bad idea?
  16. mystersyster

    Let Me See Your Clams

    Hey guys. I don't see a lot of love on the clam forum these days. I've recently been OBSESSED with clams. They're pretty awesome, and I'd like to see your clams. Preferably a before and after picture (if they've grown a lot) and name of the species. Looking forward to see your clams! Here are my Derasa clams
  17. dling

    Over Skimming

    I've just added two more crocea clams to my tank giving me a total of 4. I started thinking about the skimmer removing filter food from them. I've been skimming on the wet side. Would it be advisable to either reduce the skimmer to a drier point or even turn it off for a few days a week ? Does it even matter either way ?
  18. dling

    Clams together

    How close can clams be to each other. I have a crocea on a flat rock with some space next to it. I have ordered another one and would like to put it on the same rock. As you can see theres space on the rock. Just not sure if they would be to close.
  19. Hey, I'm still rather new to keeping clams and don't have the experience to really have a great feel for what might be going on day-to-day with the animals. I bought a supposed maxima-crocea hybrid about a month ago, at the time of purchase is was an off-opal color with a fair bit of pink and almost-white blues. Under my lighting it has always looked a fair bit different, though at times it does show off a bit of its' old opalescent streaks, I'm running an AI prime do deliver around 250 Par to the rock it is on (5 or so inches below the water line). It's on said rock (really it is in a shallow hole) because it jumped off the rubble-peice I had attached it to and then totally-latched itself into a hole in the rockscape overnight and refused to let me budge it (I chose to instead rearrange the rockwork so it was as high as possible in the tank, but it still can't quite open all the way). With that out of the way I was hoping to get some advice, information, or opinions on the bands of brownish and pinkish coloration around the mantle. I've read that they're everything from normal, to acclimation which can take months, to LED hot spots, to localized bleaching or overgrowth of symbiotic organisms from too much/little light-nutrient-etc. At this point I figured I would just ask and see if someone with more experience might have an opinion. The tank is a 12g nano-atoll and has no nitrate or phosphates, is minimally stocked, and I do 5% water changes weekly- dose two-part - and keep the alk around 10.5. The second picture is the most-similar to the clams' appearance, to my eyes at least, in person. Thank you for your time! Oh and it can actually open a bit wider than in my pictures , I just can't seem to not spook it with the camera >_<
  20. MentalDragon

    LOT: Save A Clam

    Well, I went to Petland and saw a very unhealthy Crocea Clam (browning(closer to white), gaping, and very little light reflexes) I've always wanted a clam so I decided I would try and save it. As you can see in the pic, it has a lot of browning... Actually this picture is 4 days after I got it and the browning was much worse... It is actually starting to get its color back as you could see on the edges and some in the middle of browning. Right now it opens really good... could be more but hopefully in time, it will get better. It's reflexes is spot on now... it even closes quickly just be me looking into the tank. I think it's relfexes are where it should be. It is in a new 10g Nano with a 20" 70w MH Sunpod. I test for Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites, Ph, ALK, dKH, and CA. Everything is spot on except the CA. It has been around 370 the last couple of days. I purchased Tech CB A&B will do little small water changes per day and hopefully the CA will go up. If anyone has any recommendations as to what else I should do to save this Clam, I'm all ears. Tank Inhabitants: Cleaner Shrimp Crocea Clam 5 hermit crabs 11 polyp ZOA in a snail shell (I had to get it, it looked cool) 10lbs of live rock
  21. So I purchased a Derasa clam and it was very healthy and my tank is very established with no issues. I acclimated the clam and it looked great... that evening after the lights went down my Pom Pom crab started “inspecting” the clam... the clam retracted, but I figured the crab was just checking things out and would go about its business... in the morning nearly the entire clam was gone and the Pom Pom crab was inside the shell... is this known to happen or was it a fluke? Thanks for any feedback...
  22. dling

    New kids on the block

    Clams came in this week. There so small. Both are maxima. Im really happy to have clams again.
  23. Got an Maxima clam on boxing day and there seems to be some sort of sps growing on the side of it. I'm wondering if it will harm the clam down the road or not.
  24. Never seen such big selection of blue squamis and croceas on DiversDen. Maybe someone is interested so I though I’d post it here. Head over to check them out.
  25. dling

    One vs the other

    Is there a difference between tank reared clams vs caught wild ones ? In size, color, health ect.
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