FlowerMama Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 It's like she's a Nascar driver after an accident, putting the window flap down, just letting you know she's there and ok. And a little wave w/ her little purple thing (ok, so I don't know my anatomy yet). Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 And a little wave w/ her little purple thing (ok, so I don't know my anatomy yet). Antennules! There will be a test tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Look what came from Amazon.com today. For $56.00 on Amazon Prime, I couldn't pass. I've been wanting to add a second MP10 to the other side of the tank to mix up the flow and make it a little more random. It's about as good as it gets with a single powerhead. I keep the MP10 running in reef crest mode at about 80% and that keeps the water moving pretty well. However, I'm seeing the same minor issue that I had with a single MP10 on my 10 gallon tank. Slowly over time, a larger percentage of the sand bed starts to accumulate on the side with the powerhead. With a second MP10 out of the budget after all of the recent additions and upgrades I've already made to the tank, I decided to give one of these things a go. I wasn't expecting a lot for $56.00, but figured if it didn't suck, it would help to augment the existing MP10 and randomize the flow in the tank even more. So, here goes! Here's what comes in the box: And don't forget about the random photoresistor laying in the bottom of the box! (????) I dunno, this unit doesn't appear to even use one of these things anywhere. So, okay, free photoresistor. I guess. Why not? It takes about 10 seconds to figure out how to connect everything. There's not much to it. Now to go test it out in a bucket and assuming it works, into the tank! Stay tuned! 3 Quote Link to comment
Tamberav Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 LMK how it works. A 2nd MP10 is out of my budget too. Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Ok, so I tested it in a bucket of water and it seems to work pretty decent. First impressions... The Good: It's really low profile and small. Let's say about the size of a Koralia Nano powerhead only the bracket is lower profile. That part is awesome. It has a magnetic base with a decently strong magnet. Also awesome. You can rotate it to some extent. Maybe 35 to 40 degrees? (I don't have a protractor on hand) Extra awesome! The pump is low voltage (24 volts) which leaves little chance for lethal stray voltage should something go wrong. It has multiple setting! It's adjustable! The mediocre: The controller has a very large ugly blue knob on it. The instructions are poorly translated in broken English. Build quality isn't amazing. It's not exactly poor, but it's not that of the MP10. It's a little unclear what each of the modes really are. (See picture of instructions) The bad: Not much, really. They provide double sided sticky tape to attach the controller. Velcro would be nicer. (I used my own Velcro to attach it) Long term longevity unknown. So... Pictures! (Jebao controller at the bottom) Multiple ambiguous modes to choose from! Low profile! WP10 on the left, MP10 on the right. Awesome! Note: It's angled! The destruct... er... Instructions: It's working. It's quiet. I'll let you know when I figure out exactly what all of the modes do. 2 Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 If it lasts, it'll be a great value for the money spent and a good option for folks who can't afford an MP10 and want a low profile adjustable powerhead. 1 Quote Link to comment
Chew_Magna Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 The light sensor is supposed to be somewhere on the control box. I believe on Fish Street there was an option to add a second sensor for very little $, apparently they like to go bad. It's supposed to be for night mode where the pump tones itself down some. 1 Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 The light sensor is supposed to be somewhere on the control box. I believe on Fish Street there was an option to add a second sensor for very little $, apparently they like to go bad. It's supposed to be for night mode where the pump tones itself down some. There's supposed to be a two pin connector on the left side of the box. Maybe I didn't see it. I also read somewhere that they only put the night sensor on the WP25 and larger models. I'll look again tonight when I get home. Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Ok, so my understanding of the different modes are this: H1, H2 and H3 are basically just high medium and low settings, constant output. (I had already figured that out) W1 is a short pulse mode that can be adjusted to make waves in the tank if you really want waves. W2 and W3 are what I expect most people would want. These modes seem to randomly vary the output, like a Vortech reef crest or lagoon mode. I have it in W3 mode. 1 Quote Link to comment
Tamberav Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 W1, W2, W3 are just waves aren't they? But different pulses? I think else mode is reef crest. Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 W1, W2, W3 are just waves aren't they? But different pulses? I think else mode is reef crest. So, I was trying to figure out exactly what they did last night, but I had the powerhead sitting in a bucket of really cold tap water and my hand was getting so cold, I said, screw this, it's working, I'll just put it in the tank after rinsing it good. I probably didn't spend enough time figuring out exactly what they did. W3 seemed pretty random though. I'll play around with it tonight in the warm water of the tank. Someone on the local saltwater forum confirmed that Else is supposed to be like reef crest. I'll probably use that. You can't hear the thing running, so you can't tell what it's doing by listening. Quote Link to comment
tpme06 Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Great tank! Quick question, are you still using the stock IM return pump? Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Great tank! Quick question, are you still using the stock IM return pump? No, it was too noisy. I replace it with a Sicce Syncra 1.5. It's super quiet. 1 Quote Link to comment
tpme06 Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Agreed! I'm looking at the Sicce 2.0 to add some flow and wondering if it will be too much... Just created a thread on it, but wasn't sure if you maybe already went down that road, thanks for the info! Will be following along on your tank build. Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Agreed! I'm looking at the Sicce 2.0 to add some flow and wondering if it will be too much... Just created a thread on it, but wasn't sure if you maybe already went down that road, thanks for the info! Will be following along on your tank build. The 1.5 is more flow than the stock pump, and from what I understand, the 2.0 has a big 1" outlet, so that would be a hassle to fit it. I don't think you want to have too much flow on the return pump. If you want more flow in the display area, add more powerheads. I'd stick with the 1.5 personally. Quote Link to comment
tpme06 Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Thanks for the input. I may end up adding another Jebao WP-10 with the dual controller. Quote Link to comment
Felicia Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I just got my WP-10 from Amazon too and here's my understanding of the modes after some serious work translating the broken english instructions. H1 - Constant 100% power H2 - Constant 75% power H3 - Constant 50% power W1 - Adjustable wave mode. The blue knob changes the length of the pulse. S1, S2, and S3 indicate the power of the wave. S1 = 100% power, S2 = 75% power, and S3 = 50% power W2 and W3 - two different types of random modes, like lagoon and reef crest. The blue knob controls the power for those. Else is the one that doesn't make sense. Something about being able to use the blue knob to change between different settings for different types of fish ??? Who knows. I didn't get a random photodiode in my box I put mine on the end of 3 foot long 30 gallon and man can it make a wave! I'm also using mine to supplement my MP10 since I'm getting some dead spots on the side opposite from my MP10. Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Betty poked her head out this morning and greeted me as I was leaving for work! It looks like her molt went well. I only saw the front of her, but I was able to see that her raptorial appendages are both back to 100%! Yay! Hopefully she's out and about when I get home and I can get some pictures of her new shell. 2 Quote Link to comment
FlowerMama Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Is her shell color for the peacocks pretty stable over time? Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 No big debut yesterday, she was closed up in her den when I got home. She was part way out this morning again and greeted me on my way out the door. I'm looking forward to seeing her back to her daily routine. Is her shell color for the peacocks pretty stable over time? Generally speaking, yes. It can change slightly from molt to molt. I'm curious to see if it's changed color at all now that she's been living under the new brighter 16k light. Betty's shell is exceedingly blue for a female O. Scyllarus. they are often a dull green or olive drab as their base color. I attribute her more vibrant colors to the vitamin supplements. Chuck's shell is also more blue than average with the same diet. Quote Link to comment
Maniu Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 In your opinion, how large should portion of table shrimp be without overfeeding ???? Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 In your opinion, how large should portion of table shrimp be without overfeeding ???? Chuck, my 4" G. Ternatnesis will consume about 1/2 of a whole krill each day before discarding the rest. Betty, my 5.5" O. Scyllarus will eat an entire krill every day. Quote Link to comment
FlowerMama Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Chuck, my 4" G. Ternatnesis will consume about 1/2 of a whole krill each day before discarding the rest. Betty, my 5.5" O. Scyllarus will eat an entire krill every day. She cleans house more and rearranges the landscape, she has to eat more! Quote Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 So, we get our first look at Betty after her molt. What's new? Well, for one, she's about 5% larger and for two, she's exhibiting a bit more fuchsia coloration in her front walking legs and the big muscly part (merus) of her raptorial appendages. It's pretty stunning and I haven't been able to get good pictures of it since she's only come all the way out of her den for just a few seconds so far. Notice the walking legs in the picture, and you can see a tiny bit of the merus behind her antenna scale. Here, the merus is totally covered by her antenna scale, but you can see her front walking legs which are pretty stunning. The first discarded piece of molt sitting behind a rock. It's the telson. She's still fairly shy at this point, but I expect she'll come out for dinner tonight or tomorrow night. I'm hoping to catch a few more pics then. 2 Quote Link to comment
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