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CNCreef Asis Pro 824 LED/T5HO Evil Cluster Hybrid


jedimasterben

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No, I'm running LDD's with 250w 48v 5.3A p/s from LGB. Currently, if all my LEDs were at max I'd be at 228w and 4.4A. Now given that they'll never see 100% I might be fine adding a few limes on the current p/s. Light is

-28 hyper violets
-8 Luxeon M RBs
-4 Luxeon M 4ks.

-3 LDD-1000H's
-2 LDD-700H;s.

I might be able to squeeze a few limes in there but it seems that might be pushing it a bit on that p/s.

 

 

Steves limes draw 2.9W @ 1A so you'd have room for no more than 6.

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I know, I will probably just order the 350w, 48v 7.3A p/s off ebay again. I forgot about those until after I ordered the one from LGB.

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NirvanaandTool

LOL

 

Yes, they are very tiny and difficult to solder. If you take your time, it's not too bad, but you gotta be careful where all the solder goes.

 

Not sure. The Luxeon UV are still way too expensive to sell retail (still don't know how the hell Rapid puts five on their Borealis and sells it for $100), maybe moving to SemiLED stuff, like the N35 or N5-TL.

 

Considering that these are 500lm each at an amp, I would only use two per cluster if running them low. A Vero 10 does around 1000lm at 350mA. These definitely don't need to be pushed hard to be the king of the cluster!

 

Yeah, but then you're getting away from the evil cluster and it becomes a typical array :)

 

Why a bigger PS? Aren't you running an HLG or am I making shit up again? lol

 

Keep in mind that they are using the Luxeon Z and not the Rebel ES version. They are probably mid-range binned and at 700mA only put out ~3/5 the light that the Rebel ES version that Steve's sells will do at an amp. While their addition is pleasing, I do think that too much can be bad, but once I get them on Friday I'll figure out what works and what doesn't :)

 

On the 3-ups, it looks like if you use the anti-disco 3-up, the solder pads are spread apart on the star and it would be easier to solder than the regular series 3-up and separate wiring 3-up.

 

I plan on running mine on the same channel as my Rebel ES Cyan's as that channel has the most room. 2 per cluster sounds like a good move, I could totally see these things taking over.

 

Yea forgot that those were Z's. It was late at night and I wasn't thinking clearly obviously haha.

So what about Friday? Going to be testing out some limes for us all? In that case, maybe I'll hold off on my Lime order til after you mess around with them. I can wait a few days ;)

 

The Borealis limes are top flux bin at 200lm @ 700mA which is their max current.

The Rebel Limes Steve has are top flux bin at 484lm @ 1A.

 

I'll only need 10 Rebel limes to replace 24 Z limes.

 

Yea totally forgot the Borealis is Z's not ES. Woops. Well that works, saves you some heatsink space with only 5 limes per array.

 

I know, I will probably just order the 350w, 48v 7.3A p/s off ebay again. I forgot about those until after I ordered the one from LGB.

 

That's what I'm going to be using but I ordered mine from Mouser for a couple bucks more than ebay.

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jedimasterben

I know, I will probably just order the 350w, 48v 7.3A p/s off ebay again. I forgot about those until after I ordered the one from LGB.

I would use an HLG instead - more expensive, but quality. No more ebay power supplies for me!

 

On the 3-ups, it looks like if you use the anti-disco 3-up, the solder pads are spread apart on the star and it would be easier to solder than the regular series 3-up and separate wiring 3-up.

Yes, on those there are only two sets of solder pads. For the Z boards, there are four sets on the same size star.

 

I plan on running mine on the same channel as my Rebel ES Cyan's as that channel has the most room. 2 per cluster sounds like a good move, I could totally see these things taking over.

I would run them separately or run them with your white LEDs.

 

Yea forgot that those were Z's. It was late at night and I wasn't thinking clearly obviously haha.

So what about Friday? Going to be testing out some limes for us all? In that case, maybe I'll hold off on my Lime order til after you mess around with them. I can wait a few days ;)

Yeah, it'll be this weekend, I should get them on Friday or Saturday.

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NirvanaandTool

 

I would use an HLG instead - more expensive, but quality. No more ebay power supplies for me!

 

Yes, on those there are only two sets of solder pads. For the Z boards, there are four sets on the same size star.

 

I would run them separately or run them with your white LEDs.

 

Yeah, it'll be this weekend, I should get them on Friday or Saturday.

 

4 sets on that little star? nothx.

 

Running with the whites is probably pushing it for a LDD. I'd have to run the numbers but with 2 950s (am I the only one running these things and not Veros?) it's probably too much.

I could always move the Cyans in with my XPE Blues and put the Limes on their own channel. Every other channel is pretty full. I suppose I could get another 2 or 3up board but now the price to add these things is starting to add up.

 

Cool. Cant wait to see what you find out about these things.

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jedimasterben

Running with the whites is probably pushing it for a LDD. I'd have to run the numbers but with 2 950s (am I the only one running these things and not Veros?) it's probably too much.

I meant to run them on their own driver but dim them with the white LEDs if you do not have an extra channel on your controller.

I could always move the Cyans in with my XPE Blues and put the Limes on their own channel. Every other channel is pretty full. I suppose I could get another 2 or 3up board but now the price to add these things is starting to add up.

Still not too much, especially since Steve's is basically selling them at-cost for their intro. I can't even buy the diodes for $3.25 without buying a hundred.

Cool. Cant wait to see what you find out about these things.

I can't wait til I have something to share, as well. :)

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jedimasterben

Got a bunch of LEDs coming from Steve's to test out different combos with, will hopefully arrive Saturday. Apparently when they came in today their office was flooded, a pipe burst somewhere. :o

 

I also got a couple of 3up stars, 1x royal, 1x lime, and 1x red to see what they look like :)

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NirvanaandTool

Oh I get what you are saying now. Yea true, the cost of another board & ldd is pretty minute in the grand scheme of things. Do you think Steve's will raise the price eventually? It's pretty in line with the cost of his other Lux ES leds.

 

Now that I think about it, I'll have a spare channel as the 2 LuxM RB LDDs should be on the same channel on the Bluefish. So the limes can get dimmed on their own channel. Awesome.

 

I anxiously await the results of your test. I'm not going to buy anything until we get the epicly good news.

And after that point, Steve will probably run out of limes. :lol:

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jedimasterben

Oh I get what you are saying now. Yea true, the cost of another board & ldd is pretty minute in the grand scheme of things. Do you think Steve's will raise the price eventually? It's pretty in line with the cost of his other Lux ES leds.

The cost of the limes are high compared to the other Rebels and ES, so I'd imagine they'll go up to at least $4

 

I anxiously await the results of your test. I'm not going to buy anything until we get the epicly good news.

And after that point, Steve will probably run out of limes. :lol:

They bought a reel of them (1000) so they'll have plenty for now :)

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I've looked around a bit, which p/s are you referring to Ben? I know the HLG p/s but only ones Ive been able to find are either too low in volts or too low in amps.

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jedimasterben

HLG are available from 40w to 320w and in voltage ranging from 12v to 54v, with another four SKUs in each lol. You'd want the HLG-320H-48A (which is voltage output adjustable and IP65 rated) or the HLG-320H-54 (which is IP67 and nonadjustable).

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jedimasterben

I had one running a spare array pop, and haven't had luck with the 'generic' stuff lately. No more for ben!

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Paleoreef103

Got a bunch of LEDs coming from Steve's to test out different combos with, will hopefully arrive Saturday.

 

I also got a couple of 3up stars, 1x royal, 1x lime, and 1x red to see what they look like :)

Those could be pretty interesting. I was thinking about a 3up featuring 1x 2.7K WW, 1xLime, and a cyan as a way to spruce up the 2:4:1 NW:RB:B standard or one per evil cluster.

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Reefmaster1996

4 sets on that little star? nothx.

 

Running with the whites is probably pushing it for a LDD. I'd have to run the numbers but with 2 950s (am I the only one running these things and not Veros?) it's probably too much.

I could always move the Cyans in with my XPE Blues and put the Limes on their own channel. Every other channel is pretty full. I suppose I could get another 2 or 3up board but now the price to add these things is starting to add up.

 

Cool. Cant wait to see what you find out about these things.

Your not the only one left, I have 4 for the build I'm working on.

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Reefmaster1996

Ben, quick question, how are you going to hide the power cords to the fixture, with the hanging setup you have screwed in the wall, I'm thinking of hanging my fixture in the same way, also how much did it cost for all the aluminum parts?

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Reefmaster1996

Also forgot to add, since I'm running my luxeon m RB on separate ldd drivers, can I bridge the pwm signal from a storm controller from coralux with something like this http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/busbar/html/12point/12point.php?lang=en , I saw them at homedepot and I know they use them on cars, I feel like it would look pretty in my control box, and be easy to hook up?

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fredfish01

I'm really curious to know how having lime leds in the mix affects your settings for the vero whites. I would think the lime is a partial replacement for whites.

 

It won't affect the parts list if you are using vero's for your whites, but I would think it changes the RB to white ratio if you are using 3.5w whites.

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jedimasterben

Those could be pretty interesting. I was thinking about a 3up featuring 1x 2.7K WW, 1xLime, and a cyan as a way to spruce up the 2:4:1 NW:RB:B standard or one per evil cluster.

I don't think that the warm white would be necessary, the only thing it has on the Vero chips (besides the warmer and higher CRI whites) would be the red peak, in which case I would just add PC amber instead, but realistically they should not need supplementation.

 

Ben, quick question, how are you going to hide the power cords to the fixture, with the hanging setup you have screwed in the wall, I'm thinking of hanging my fixture in the same way, also how much did it cost for all the aluminum parts?

The cords can't really be hidden, they're too large to fit intot he slots in the 8020. The cost on it all was around $110 something, can't remember exactly.

 

Also forgot to add, since I'm running my luxeon m RB on separate ldd drivers, can I bridge the pwm signal from a storm controller from coralux with something like this http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/busbar/html/12point/12point.php?lang=en , I saw them at homedepot and I know they use them on cars, I feel like it would look pretty in my control box, and be easy to hook up?

Yes, you can certainly use a terminal block, I've used them in the past, they're great. You don't need that, though, you can just put a small cable running between the terminals on the LDD board PWM inputs (so have the PWM signal coming into input 1, then have another wire in with input 1 that goes into input 2).

 

I'm really curious to know how having lime leds in the mix affects your settings for the vero whites. I would think the lime is a partial replacement for whites.

 

It won't affect the parts list if you are using vero's for your whites, but I would think it changes the RB to white ratio if you are using 3.5w whites.

I can imagine that the white intensity will be reduced in favor of the lime, which will end up with a brighter light to the eye.

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bdevillier19

Well thanks to you Jedi, I will be ordering 90cri vero 10 to replace the 80cri vero 10 that have never been used, plus a handful of limes from Steve's. Lol. The wife thinks I have gone off the deep end. She doesn't understand why I need to replace my veros when they are still in the box. I guess "because Jedi said so" isnt a legitimate answer.

 

So now I will have 4 vero 10 just sitting around so I think I'll make a fuge light for my 12" cube fuge. I'm thinking 1 4k 80cri vero 10 on a 6" makers but what else should I add to it?

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bdevillier19

Should I use all 4 that I'll have left over? Any blues or anything?

 

And if I run all 4, would 350ma each suffice? And all on a makers 6"?

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So has steve gotten proper cool blues yet or do they still tend towards a cyanish hue?

 

Need to decide on who to order cool blues from.

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NirvanaandTool

Well thanks to you Jedi, I will be ordering 90cri vero 10 to replace the 80cri vero 10 that have never been used, plus a handful of limes from Steve's. Lol. The wife thinks I have gone off the deep end. She doesn't understand why I need to replace my veros when they are still in the box. I guess "because Jedi said so" isnt a legitimate answer.

 

So now I will have 4 vero 10 just sitting around so I think I'll make a fuge light for my 12" cube fuge. I'm thinking 1 4k 80cri vero 10 on a 6" makers but what else should I add to it?

 

I should use that as the excuse for the limes and the new drivers and such and see what my wife says. "The Jedi made me do it!"

I just told her its a color I don't have but should have. She was like "well ok, that makes sense" and that was it. Simple.

 

Your not the only one left, I have 4 for the build I'm working on.

 

Phew I'm not the only one. Old school BXRA crew!

 

I had one running a spare array pop, and haven't had luck with the 'generic' stuff lately. No more for ben!

 

I thought the one floating around on ebay was a meanwell PS. NES-350-48. That's the model I got from Mouser at least. It only cost me like $56 so if it dies, I'll find a HLG.

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