CNCreef Asis Pro 824 LED/T5HO Evil Cluster Hybrid

[You_Wrasse_is_Mine]

Lol. I sort of figured I'd get beat a little bit over the DR array. I am aware of the amount of red that the 4000k NW put out. I am using the DR as part of the sun rise/sunset phase and will only be used when the daylights are off and just the RB are on. we all tend to use our actinic's as part of the first phase of of the sunrise/sunset simulation, but in reality what type of light that should really be used is more towards the red spectrum because as the sun goes down or up, red light is the most dominate. Plus adding just a small amount of DR with just RB adds a huge amount aesthetically.

 

As for the violets, I'm not going to be growing coral in this tank for a while and I don't need the extra par right away. When this time comes, I'll be adding probably 2 full arrays of them as well.

 

Now for the rebel cyans, I do see that they tend to be more towards the green spectrum. I have used the C rebels in my last build and noticed that the green really brings out the oranges quite a bit. I carefully chose the C rebels specifically because they are closer to the green spectrum to give over all a broader sectral range as the rebel standard blues are putting out the higher end of blue already.

[bdevillier19]

Yeah I might be thinking the cree cool blues and rebel cyans. Might have it mixed up.

[evilc66]

Clive and Ben, uh, will hate me for harping this point, again, and please do what you like,,, but I would trade that dark red channel for a violet channel.

 

Dude, you're taking our little conversation from the other thread a little too seriously. I've always said there is a time and place for adding red to an array. This is not one of those situations, so why are you worried about what I will say on the topic? Like you said, violet would be a better choice in this instance.

[farkwar]

 

Dude, you're taking our little conversation from the other thread a little too seriously. I've always said there is a time and place for adding red to an array. This is not one of those situations, so why are you worried about what I will say on the topic? Like you said, violet would be a better choice in this instance.

I don't think I take anything in this hobby tooo seriously. Sometimes my humor is lost on text, and I had a beer buzz when I wrote it. My job is life or death, this shouldnt be except for a couple damsels and blue leggeds.

 

It's not suppose to be so serious.

insert bunch of non serious emoticons here

 

 

One of the best things about LEDs is that if you dont like what you have, just pop them off and replace them with something else. Well, except when you do something like start a Lumia build, I'm pretty committed at "confirm purchase" button press. Yes, it has 5 red chips on it, I know.

[You_Wrasse_is_Mine]

I guess I was just mainly wondering if anyone though that build was a bit over kill and if i should just use 3 BXRA 1350's instead or maybe 6 950's and redesign the build around them. About the reds, they are purely arsthetic for me and will only be on with RB only.

[milfordguy]

Wrasse do you have a separate build thread? I'm putting together a few sketches and have a very similar build list. Three 6"x 20" heatsinks (More violets for par however). I was going to ask Ben and those guys to take a look at it because I'm basically using his build as a template.

[You_Wrasse_is_Mine]

Wrasse do you have a separate build thread? I'm putting together a few sketches and have a very similar build list. Three 6"x 20" heatsinks (More violets for par however). I was going to ask Ben and those guys to take a look at it because I'm basically using his build as a template.

I have not started a thread on it yet. I was planning on it once I pull the trigger on the project. I'm still gathering up a parts list. Once it's carved in stone, I'll order everything and then the project is on! I'm starting to think that 6x BXRA 1350's is going to be too much light. I'm mean we're talking over 500watts of led lighting. At that rate, I may just as well use some power hungry MH's lol JK.

[milfordguy]

I have not started a thread on it yet. I was planning on it once I pull the trigger on the project. I'm still gathering up a parts list. Once it's carved in stone, I'll order everything and then the project is on! I'm starting to think that 6x BXRA 1350's is going to be too much light. I'm mean we're talking over 500watts of led lighting. At that rate, I may just as well use some power hungry MH's lol JK.

 

I just posted my plans over there if you want to take a look. I have a basic idea of what I need to buy, but I'm still looking for some input. Feel free to chime in and follow along.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/335175-evil-cluster-jedi-clone/

 

Sorry for clogging up your build, just thought you may be interested in the fact that we're all envious of your LED skills.

[bfliflet]

Hey Jedi,

After your post on my not-so-nano build thread, I was curious what your current max dimming settings are given that you mentioned you were running the following LEDs at these currents

 

"single 950-B at 1000mA, four RB M at 1000mA, four Rebel blue at 1000mA, and 10x hyper violet" (presumably HV running at 700mA) for half your tank

 

When at peak intensity on your lighting schedule, are all of your LEDs at 100%? I seem to recall much lower percentages for your NW and RB LEDs (around 30-40%). You might have still been experimenting with layouts, LEDs, etc at the time. I think it's important for people to understand not only the drive current and LED mix but the peak intensity for preferred coloration. There are multiple ways to re-create that mix once you know the LEDs, drive current and (the missing piece for me) peak intensity %. TIA!

[jedimasterben]

60% NW, 80% RB/B, 100% HV. LEDs go in a slope pattern with no plateau, so after they reach their peak, they immediately start ramping down.

[jedimasterben]

Put the Coral Plus bulbs back in. The Blue Plus just don't light up the tank to my liking. The Coral Plus is a lot whiter, but I think I like that anyway.

Also took final PAR measurements over my tank.

I measured every channel separately - so the Coral Plus bulbs, the neutral white LEDs, the royal/cool blue LEDs (they are on one channel), and the hyper violet LEDs.

I measured in a few places, but the highest point was dead center of the tank, where the light all overlaps. I'm going to give the full set of numbers - first is the reading my multimeter gives, in millivolts, which is multiplied by 5, and then multiplied by the correction factor (if any) to get the accurate PAR reading (since the Apogee meter is skewed toward red). The final number is the total calculated PAR value.

Coral+ – 15 x 5 = 75
NW – 17 x 5 x 1.05 = 89.25
RB/CB – 42 x 5 x 1.25 = 262.5
HV – 11 x 5 x 1.4 = 77

Total - ~503 PAR


Yes, that is on my sandbed with all channels at 100%. Power consumption is 86.5w for the two T5 tubes, and 242w for all of the LEDs, totaling 328.5w

I plan on running each channel peaking at the following percentages:
Coral Plus - 100% (for light spread)
NW - 30%
RB/CB - 60%
HV - 100%

Total peak power consumption for those numbers is 240w. PAR on the sandbed is still over 300 at those numbers, but it only at that peak for a short amount of time during the day, so it shouldn't be that bad. Maybe. lol

[milfordguy]

What height did you up hanging the fixture at?

[jedimasterben]

The canopy is about 10" off the top of the tank, so the T5 is around 12" and the the LEDs around 16-18".

[duncan-junkie]

Sick build!!!!! I would love to build one of these, but I wouldn't even know where to begin? Can't wait to see the growth and color you get from this fixture!! SERIOUSLY SICK!!!

[jedimasterben]

That will be dependent on whether or not I can ever be rid of these stupid dinoflagellates. I've lost lots of coral to them.

[Semisonyx]

Ben, what does your tank look like with everything running except for the bxra and cyan? I'm revisiting my DIY t5/led combo, and am running 2 39w C+ and 7 Cree RB@~1.2A on my 40br. The color and pop is amazing, and I like using the c+ as my white instead of any white LEDs. I'm considering adding CB and HV into the mix, but since your setup is so close, thought I'd ask you to see what your tank looks like with no white or cy LEDs first.

[jedimasterben]

Depends on the look you want. I don't really see a difference between running the Coral Plus bulbs versus the BXRA for your white except for distributed vs point-source.

 

If you're running royal blue, I would still recommend to run cool blue, one per four or so royals (or one per Luxeon M royal).

 

I'm not sure how you have so much color pop using so little royal blue compared to the Coral Plus. It takes my eight Luxeon M at around 500mA to be able to see a noticeable color change.

[Semisonyx]

Exactly. I want the distributed light source for my white because it washes out any color banding/disco, and the C+ also has a decent bump in the low 400-450nm area. I have to have my 7 RB @ 1.0A before I notice them, and 1.2A kicks everything up a little. Were you running the brxa in addition to the T5 when you were looking for the color change with the M? I need to get my hands on a PAR meter again, as I'm not sure I'm running enough light, but I know I don't need the BXRA on a 40b to get there . My current thought is to add a second string of 7 (5HV/2CB) to see how that affects the look of things, but without a PAR meter, it is all guessing game.

[jedimasterben]

I run my T5 bulbs around 24" from the sandbed, and two of them provide a pretty even 75 PAR across the bottom.

 

I don't think I was running the BXRA when I was doing my test, but I dunno. I don't really put in a lot of effort to turn any off to do testing sometimes lol. More of a hassle than anything.

[Semisonyx]

That makes me feel better. Mine are at the same height, and I feel strongly I'm getting at least 25 par out of the 6 RBs at the surface. That ought to get me at about 100 on the sand... I'll monitor a couple frags over the next few weeks to see if they agree.

[dacdaddy]

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Philips-Lumileds/LHC1-4080-1205/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiktP%2fCHmsDr9YwxZm8UvhgyLtnY9s2BnPFaW4%2f5jTTEoNpVBR9fl%252bi

 

check out these cannons, any thoughts? lol

[jedimasterben]

Basically a high-voltage multichip Luxeon. Kinda like the Bridgelux arrays, just drastically more expensive.

[Confuse]

Ben, do you think two 950B clusters (NW/RB/CB) would cover and provide adequate PAR for a 48x30x24 tank? The clusters would be at about 14" above the tank as I would have them inside a canopy. I was also planning to add maybe 4 to 6 T5's (2 or 3 on each end). After considering the ATI LED hybrid, I kind of like this idea better since I'll be using a canopy. I'm just afraid it might not be hung up high enough.

[jedimasterben]

No, you'd need four for coverage.

 

Or, if you're adding that many T5 (I wouldn't, stick with two, at the most four), you could do two, but you'll have very much a hotspot in the middle.

[Confuse]

No, you'd need four for coverage.

 

Or, if you're adding that many T5 (I wouldn't, stick with two, at the most four), you could do two, but you'll have very much a hotspot in the middle.

 

What if I were to add the 950B's strictly for shimmer (blasphemy, I know) and use the T5's for primary color and PAR? Would two 950B's suffice?