blasterman Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 If they're the 70 CRI bin go with Bridgelux instead. Or, get the 5000k Luxeon M's and combine them with a separate channel of 3watt warm whites (2700-3000k). This way you can dial in the degree of warmth you want. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 If they're the 70 CRI bin go with Bridgelux instead. Or, get the 5000k Luxeon M's and combine them with a separate channel of 3watt warm whites (2700-3000k). This way you can dial in the degree of warmth you want. Did you see where LEDgroupbuy is ordering XP-E2 that are supposed to be at or very near 465nm? They'll find out exactly what they are once they arrive. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Any eta on when milad will get the new xp-e2 blues? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 He said 3-4 weeks, and that was on the 14th, so I would expect them early to mid February. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Sweet. Just in time for my order. Link to comment
Reefmaster1996 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Beutiful build you got going on here Jedi, I already have learned a bunch form reading your thread of r2r Link to comment
Sailfish Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Disaster999, pointed me in the direction of the Lumia 5.2, from LEDGroupbuy. What do you think about that in comparison with your Evil Cluster, in regards to color banding?I saw your review about the Lumia 5.1 and noticed that the spectral output histogram looked quite different on the Lumia 5.1 vs. the Lumia 5.2. Do you think the Lumia 5.2 is an improvement, in regards to spectral output?Also, should I use optics if I decide to use one Lumia 5.2 over my 18"x18"x18" cube?Do you know if the Lumia 5.1 lens will fit the Lumia 5.2 as well? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Disaster999, pointed me in the direction of the Lumia 5.2, from LEDGroupbuy. What do you think about that in comparison with your Evil Cluster, in regards to color banding? You're comparing apples and oranges. There is no way a single chip can compete with several that have to be spaced out due to their own boards being large. I saw your review about the Lumia 5.1 and noticed that the spectral output histogram looked quite different on the Lumia 5.1 vs. the Lumia 5.2. Do you think the Lumia 5.2 is an improvement, in regards to spectral output? They're about the same as far as that goes. I'm pretty sure that that is not the actual spectral output but the combination of the individual spectral graphs. Also, should I use optics if I decide to use one Lumia 5.2 over my 18"x18"x18" cube? Do you know if the Lumia 5.1 lens will fit the Lumia 5.2 as well? The lens is the same. Link to comment
Sailfish Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 You're comparing apples and oranges. There is no way a single chip can compete with several that have to be spaced out due to their own boards being large. Do you mean that the Lumia 5.2 is way inferior to the Evil Cluster, in regards of power, or do you mean that the Lumia 5.2 is way superior to the Evil Cluster, in regards of color banding? Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 He's saying that the tight cluster of the 5.2 on one chip will always be better than a diy due to the size of the 20mm or larger stars the LEDs are mounted to. In diy even with all the LEDs touching they will still be spaced further apart than the 5.2 thus will also have more color banding Link to comment
Wspangler Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 He's saying that the tight cluster of the 5.2 on one chip will always be better than a diy due to the size of the 20mm or larger stars the LEDs are mounted to. In diy even with all the LEDs touching they will still be spaced further apart than the 5.2 thus will also have more color bandingI'm pretty sure he's saying it's not really comparable Not that one is better. With a lumina you get all the led packed very close. With the evil cluster you get more control over the color because you can dial down each color individually, but in short you are comparing two things as a whole that aren't really comparable. Apples to oranges. What's better a race car or a school bus? Id say a race car if you are looking to race, but a school bus if you want to transport a large number of people. I also think if he found the lumina superior he would be using it. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Do you mean that the Lumia 5.2 is way inferior to the Evil Cluster, in regards of power, or do you mean that the Lumia 5.2 is way superior to the Evil Cluster, in regards of color banding? Both lol. He's saying that the tight cluster of the 5.2 on one chip will always be better than a diy due to the size of the 20mm or larger stars the LEDs are mounted to. In diy even with all the LEDs touching they will still be spaced further apart than the 5.2 thus will also have more color banding pretty much sums it up. I'm pretty sure he's saying it's not really comparable Not that one is better. With a lumina you get all the led packed very close. With the evil cluster you get more control over the color because you can dial down each color individually, but in short you are comparing two things as a whole that aren't really comparable. Apples to oranges. What's better a race car or a school bus? Id say a race car if you are looking to race, but a school bus if you want to transport a large number of people. I also think if he found the lumina superior he would be using it. All of this. So I ordered four SCW05C-12... $60 shipped from Taiwan. Oy. https://www.aftership.com/ey2DcPt5O Also no update from Nanobox on the housings... Dave said that they should be ready third week of this month, so far no news, but hopefully no news is good news? Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 jedi, i see you are planning on running a heatsink/enclosure from dave at nano box. are you running all 4 of your new clusters on one heatsink? what length is the heatsink going to be? and how does the price compare to the makers heatsinks? Link to comment
Sailfish Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Here's a link to one of the cheapest places to get the HLG: http://www.onlinecomponents.com/keywordsearch.aspx?text=mean well hlg There's lots of versions as far as total power, voltage go, and then there are four different types of each - one that has no adjustment and is IP67, the A version has no dimming but has internal current and voltage adjustment and is IP65, the B version has PWM, analog, and resistance dimming, the C version has terminals instead of wire leads (and has internal current and voltage adjustment), and the D version uses some sort of timer, but those are direct from Meanwell only, I guess. My 80g tank will use LEDs topping out at 187w, and the fans will be another few, so I'd need the 240w version. The little tank is exactly half that, so I'd need the 120w version for it. I will be selling off most of my extra stuff (and have ~$500 in credit at LEDgroupbuy still), so I'll have plenty to cover it and the rest of my expenses to get this ball rolling. Looks like great and efficient power supplies!What type are you going for, ben? A, B, C or D? Why would you need the ability to dim, or to have internal adjustment of current and voltage, on the powersupply? Will not the LDD drivers do that? Both lol. pretty much sums it up. All of this. GREAT SUCCESS! Then I think a Lumia 5.2 will suit me pretty perfect, since I'm trying to shy away from T5 and MH I like the dc/dc converters, that you have ordered for your fans. It will absolutely be more tidy Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Looks like great and efficient power supplies!What type are you going for, ben? A, B, C or D?Why would you need the ability to dim, or to have internal adjustment of current and voltage, on the powersupply? Will not the LDD drivers do that? I'll probably go for type A or C - both are voltage adjustable, I run mine at around 50v so that I can power four Luxeon M per LDD. Dimming the HLG would basically starve the LDD and would kill them, more than likely, so I wouldn't need the B or D models that are dimmable. I like the dc/dc converters, that you have ordered for your fans. It will absolutely be more tidy Hopefully they won't take two months to get here like for some other people I know that ordered them from the same place. Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 like your layout. gonna look nice and clean. are you going to be running 16 violets? if so are you going to split them up between 2 LDDs? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Yep, 8x on each. no sense in maxing one out with 12x and running one with 4x Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 so then 7 LDD total? what are you using to control your LDDs? the fixture i'm building is almost identical to yours. i received my vero10's on friday. i wasnt expecting something so small. i was thinking somewhere around the size of a luxeon m or slightly smaller. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 I've got two Typhons here, and I'll probably order a Storm X to play with, but plan is for the Bluefish controller. I thought the same thing. I got them and was shocked at how tiny they are for packing such a punch. Push 700mA through them and they'll give you over 2000 lumens. Link to comment
milfordguy Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Looks like you decided to go without cyan and just run the Luxeon M's in a 4 to 1 ratio with cool blue. Is this correct? Link to comment
bdevillier19 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Well looking at the drawing above it looks like a 1:1 lux m rb to cool blue. In my talks with Jedi I was told if I'm running t5 cyan isn't needed. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 There's 4x Vero 10, 8x Luxeon M, 8x XP-E2, 8x true violet, 8x hyper violet. Link to comment
milfordguy Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Well looking at the drawing above it looks like a 1:1 lux m rb to cool blue. In my talks with Jedi I was told if I'm running t5 cyan isn't needed. Oh yeah that's what I meant, it's roughly 4:1 watt ratio. Just a 1:1 led ratio. And that makes sense. Thanks for the responses! Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 There's 4x Vero 10, 8x Luxeon M, 8x XP-E2, 8x true violet, 8x hyper violet. Aren't you running the Veros at somewhere between 250 and 333mA and the Ms at 1 A? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 Aren't you running the Veros at somewhere between 250 and 333mA and the Ms at 1 A? That's the plan. Link to comment
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