Maxspect Razor Owners thread

[Islandoftiki]

Okay gang, I'm home and have had a chance to mess with some of the new goodies. I'll share with you my pleasures and disappointments. I'll try to be as unbiased as possible and hopefully shed some light on some issues that are not otherwise really obvious.

 

First off, I have the Maxspect Razor Nano 60 watt 16k fixture mounted on an Innovative Marine Nuvo 30 tank. Well built, love it. Having some minor mounting issues on a Nuvo 30.

 

Ok, we'll start with the change to 120 degree optics, which are a great addition to the light, IMO.

 

This is about a 5 minute job at most. Remove the four screws at the back of the unit.

 

 

The back panel simply slides off.

 

 

The optics piece lifts right off.

 

You install the new 120 degree optics.

 

Slide this panel back on and re-attach the back panel with four screws.

 

Done, done and done. Easy.

 

So, what do I think about the 120 degree optics? I wish it came with 120 degree optics. If you, like me, prefer the look of T5 to LED's, this is the modification for you. Shadowing is greatly reduced.

 

Here are two full tank shots. The first with the 90 degree optics and the second with the 120 degree optics.

 

90 degree optics:

 

 

120 degree optics:

 

 

 

The difference is extremely noticeable and a major improvement. Less shadowing and less ripple effect. Don't get me wrong, ripple effect is lovely, but overly pronounced with the 90 degree optics IMO.

 

Note, you can also lower the fixture with the 120 degree optics, which makes the whole tank look more sleek.

 

More to come in a second post...

[Islandoftiki]

Ok, the upside-down shot glass in this picture is ideally where you'd like the light centered and this is the absolute maximum extension you have with the included arms that come with the light if you want it mounted to the nice thick glass at the back of the tank.

 

 

 

Obviously, there's a minor disparity here. I contacted Maxspect about the issue and they suggested I purchase the $50.00 stainless steel alternate mounting arms and brackets as they would likely be longer than the stock arms.

 

They aren't longer. They're shorter, actually:

 

The other option would be to straddle the tank with the fixture at 90 degrees. That would be fine if I didn't need the top of the tank covered. You cannot have the glass cover on the tank if you use these brackets:

 

 

Obviously the tank would be happier if I didn't use the glass top, but we have several fully flighted birds that I'm quite certain would fly directly into the tank and drown if given the opportunity. So, the glass top has to stay.

 

So, my final thought is to combine the stout stainless steel arms with these straight arms using a metal tube to attach the two together and thus allowing the light to be moved about an inch forward to center it above the main display part of the tank.

 

So, I have to do a little bit of custom work to really make this light fit well on a Nuvo 30 tank... or most IM Nuvo tanks. It's not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind if you want to use this light on a IM Nuvo 30 or 38.

 

I'll post my final solution when I get it sorted out. Hopefully this weekend!

[Mirya]

I agree with Tiki. I installed the 120 degree reflector about a week ago in my Nano. I posted a review in the "Maxspect by Coralview" folder. Like Tiki said, install was fast and easy; less than 5 minutes. Just a Philips head screwdriver is required. The spread is definitely wider, but that wasn't a factor for my switch. It was a light quality issue for me. I had a blue-polka-dot effect with the 90 degree reflector. I'm MUCH happier with the light quality now. There is a very nice soft blending of the LED colors with the 120 degree reflector, and I still have enough glimmer lines to make me happy.

[Islandoftiki]

I agree with Tiki. I installed the 120 degree reflector about a week ago in my Nano. I posted a review in the "Maxspect by Coralview" folder. Like Tiki said, install was fast and easy; less than 5 minutes. Just a Philips head screwdriver is required. The spread is definitely wider, but that wasn't a factor for my switch. It was a light quality issue for me. I had a blue-polka-dot effect with the 90 degree reflector. I'm MUCH happier with the light quality now. There is a very nice soft blending of the LED colors with the 120 degree reflector, and I still have enough glimmer lines to make me happy.

 

 

^^Yes, this.^^

 

If you have any version of the factory mounting brackets, you should get the 120 degree optics, IMO. Unless you're doing some crazy light-loving SPS. My SPS don't need that much focused light. I'm still only up to 85% brightness. I thought I was going to have to stop at 90% for my tank, but can probably hit 100% with the 120 degree optics. I shouldn't say optics. It's a reflector. There are no optics involved with this piece. Still highly recommended.

 

Still have some shimmer, but not crazy disco shimmer now.

 

Also, Maxspect needs to make some 1" longer arms for the IM Nuvo 30/38 tanks. This is a really popular tank and should be supported by their products.

[Mirya]

So, I have to do a little bit of custom work to really make this light fit well on a Nuvo 30 tank... or most IM Nuvo tanks.

 

I did have to do a Dremel job on the plastic mounting bracket to be able to center my Nano on the back of my IM Nuvo 8. I can take a picture of it when I get home.

 

Tiki - what about going ahead with using the brackets and modifying the glass top? A stained glass studio would be able to cut out notches in the glass to allow clearance for the brackets. Alternatively you could go with a screen top.

[Mirya]

Here is my Dremel job that allowed me to center my Maxspect Nano on my IM Nuvo8

 

 

[Islandoftiki]

Tiki - what about going ahead with using the brackets and modifying the glass top? A stained glass studio would be able to cut out notches in the glass to allow clearance for the brackets. Alternatively you could go with a screen top.

 

It'll be this weekend before I can get to doing any cutting or hacking, so I'll weigh my options. Honestly, removing the glass top is a better choice for the tank in general. Having the top modified would probably work well, but for a couple reasons, it makes sense for me to continue to hang the light off of the back of the tank. I think all I need is some fairly stout 1/4"id stainless tubing to make it work exactly how I want it.

 

I'm loving the 120 degree optics. The blending of the light is much nicer and you get far less shadowing.

[Matt Heath]

Hi, I really want to order a razor nano but need to hang it. I can't tell whether or not the nano cones with a hanging kit, can anyone help?

[Islandoftiki]

Hi, I really want to order a razor nano but need to hang it. I can't tell whether or not the nano cones with a hanging kit, can anyone help?

 

It does not come with the hanging kit. You'll need to order that separately.

[icombs17]

Just read this whole post and saw like 4 people has had issues with there razor, from broken display to electrical issues. Everyone just like skipped over their post's and kept on buying them. I am looking a getting one but am worried about longevity, can anyone comment?

[Maui]

Maxspect Razor Nano owner here. Had my light mounted on the back of my tank but had a slight issue with coverage.

 

So the other day I decided to hang it from the ceiling with stuff I bought from Home Depot.

 

Couldn't be happier!

 

Old way

 

New way

[Tophoo]

Why not get the new 120 degree lens?

[Maui]

Why not get the new 120 degree lens?

 

Because this way my light is dead center in the middle of the tank and the stuff I bought from the store was like $5.

 

Also before I had to take the light off to access my InTank media basket. Now I have full access to the rear compartments of the tank with nothing in the way.

[nystang]

Just read this whole post and saw like 4 people has had issues with there razor, from broken display to electrical issues. Everyone just like skipped over their post's and kept on buying them. I am looking a getting one but am worried about longevity, can anyone comment?

Just 4 post among thousands of satisfied owners, do not tell a thing aboout it. There are far more very happy owners who just don't post here.

[CrazyCarl]

Just 4 post among thousands of satisfied owners, do not tell a thing aboout it. There are far more very happy owners who just don't post here.

True. Satisfied customers in general do not usually post a lot of reviews. I am very happy with the light, it performs as advertised, looks great, and is reasonably priced. I've had mine for a year with no issues.

[pgrVII]

+1 on being happy with the nano 10k I got over my nanocube.

[jarojusz]

Hi All,

 

Today I’ve bought 120 degrees lenses for my 60W Nano and after first „oohhh”s and „ahhhhs”’s I’ve noticed that altough the disco effect has been significally reduced and everything looks more soft there is one major drawback - the side shining. My tank is located by the couch and now the light is dazzling my eyes. Changing the hight of the mounting didn’t change much. Everything looks great when I’m standing, but when my eyes are lower (when I sit on the couch) or try to work by the desk the light hits me. I’ve returned to old 90 degree lenses.

 

Here’s my tank with 120 degrees lenses. As you can see a lot of light goes sideways:

 

 

This picture that I’ve taken after returning to 90 degrees standard lens:

 

 

Although the light spread looks similar, now it does not shine right to my eyes when I sit on the couch.

 

One more question guys:

 

Don’t you think that my razor is located too high?

 

My lighting schedule is:

 

7:00 A 0% B 1%,
10:00 A 0% B 90%
13:00 A 70 % B 90%
20:00 A 70% B 90%
21:30 A 0% B 90%
22:30 A 0% B 1%

 

What do you think? Thanks for any help.

[Islandoftiki]

Hi All,

 

Today I’ve bought 120 degrees lenses for my 60W Nano and after first „oohhh”s and „ahhhhs”’s I’ve noticed that altough the disco effect has been significally reduced and everything looks more soft there is one major drawback - the side shining. My tank is located by the couch and now the light is dazzling my eyes. Changing the hight of the mounting didn’t change much. Everything looks great when I’m standing, but when my eyes are lower (when I sit on the couch) or try to work by the desk the light hits me. I’ve returned to old 90 degree lenses.

 

That's interesting. Our tank sits directly next to our television, so light leakage out the sides was a concern, but I'm not getting anywhere close to the amount of light loss out the sides as you are (or I'm not noticing it). I did lower my fixture when I switched to the 120 degree optics though.

 

Don’t you think that my razor is located too high?

 

Not for the 90 degree optics, I don't think so. It depends largely on what kind of corals you're keeping and what their light requirements are though.

 

My lighting schedule is:

 

7:00 A 0% B 1%,

10:00 A 0% B 90%

13:00 A 70 % B 90%

20:00 A 70% B 90%

21:30 A 0% B 90%

22:30 A 0% B 1%

 

What do you think? Thanks for any help.

 

My light starts shutting down a lot earlier than yours. I think around 6pm it's starting to ramp down. I'll post my light schedule when I get home tonight. I do have it intentionally dimming at that time so it's not so bright during our main TV watching hours.

[Islandoftiki]

Ok, after playing around with several possible options for extending the arms of the stainless steel bracket kit, I settled on this method which was quick and dirty and very strong.

 

I cut two 5 1/2" pieces off of the straight bars that come in the kit, leaving the threaded set-screw holes in tact on the ends. I also cut the bent arms back about an inch behind the set screw hole. Then I threaded the ends of the rods with a 5/16"-18 die and put the two together with a 5/16"-16 deep nut. With the diameter of this rod, this gives me about 60% depth threads, but that's more than enough for this situation. I'll loctite it all together when I assemble it on the tank.

 

 

 

When assembled, it's quite stout and should work great.

 

 

That coupling nut will all but disappear behind the light fixture.

 

I'll take pictures when I get home tonight and set it up.

[Islandoftiki]

My lighting schedule is:

 

7:00 A 0% B 1%,

10:00 A 0% B 90%

13:00 A 70 % B 90%

20:00 A 70% B 90%

21:30 A 0% B 90%

22:30 A 0% B 1%

 

 

Here's what I've got going currently on the tank that sits next to the television:

 

8:00 A 0% B 1%

9:00 A 50% B 50%

9:30 A 100% B 100%

15:30 A 100% B 100%

18:00 A 50% B 50%

20:00 A 0% B 1%

 

The SPS are coloring up really well, and with the 120 degree optics on there, it's dim enough that it doesn't bother us watching TV in the evenings. We usually don't start watching TV until 7:30 at the earliest. It doesn't bother me if I'm watching TV during the day on the weekend with the light at 100% brightness to be honest.

 

Anyhow, that's my setup for now.

[CrazyCarl]

Ok, after playing around with several possible options for extending the arms of the stainless steel bracket kit, I settled on this method which was quick and dirty and very strong.

 

I cut two 5 1/2" pieces off of the straight bars that come in the kit, leaving the threaded set-screw holes in tact on the ends. I also cut the bent arms back about an inch behind the set screw hole. Then I threaded the ends of the rods with a 5/16"-18 die and put the two together with a 5/16"-16 deep nut. With the diameter of this rod, this gives me about 60% depth threads, but that's more than enough for this situation. I'll loctite it all together when I assemble it on the tank.

 

 

 

When assembled, it's quite stout and should work great.

 

 

That coupling nut will all but disappear behind the light fixture.

 

I'll take pictures when I get home tonight and set it up.

Good job. That will work well. I would just make sure the rod coupling is stainless steel, it looks like it may be galvanized which will corrode, especially when in contact with stainless. Do some research on dissimilar metals. If it is stainless disregard, but it has the sheen of galvanized/ zinc plated.

[Islandoftiki]

Good job. That will work well. I would just make sure the rod coupling is stainless steel, it looks like it may be galvanized which will corrode, especially when in contact with stainless. Do some research on dissimilar metals. If it is stainless disregard, but it has the sheen of galvanized/ zinc plated.

 

Yep, I'm very familiar with galvanic corrosion. I think loctiting it together should seal out any moisture, and I have a glass cover on the tank, so the chance of it becoming a corrosion problem will be minimal. We'll see. They didn't have any stainless coupling nuts at the hardware store. I'll probably have to order some online. Easy to switch them out.

[Timbertdi]

Hi all. I went through the first 12 pages looking for the answer to my question.

 

I Have a 120w 16k setup on my nuvo 16. I just set up a 60 cube (24x24x24) and I want to use another maxspect. I don't know which model: a 120 with the legs or should I hang a 160? I'm mostly worried about the light penetrating the 24" depth.

 

Thanks,

Steven

[SpencerShepard]

I've thought about making a drop-in replacement controller board for these that would interface with our lighting controller. Is there any interest in that? It would give you wi-fi control from phone/tablets, location-based weather simulation, etc....all the features of the Bluefish controller.

[CrazyCarl]

Sounds interesting… I think price point would be the biggest obstacle for most purchasers of this light IMO. I know I bought mine because the performance is on PAR (no pun intended) with other higher priced lights, where it is only lacking in the advanced control department. But if it can be done for a lower combined total than those other lights, I for one would definitely look into it. Especially now that I already own one.