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About markalot

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    Northern KY

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  1. Frogspawn Dying?

    That makes sense though. GFO in a reactor can cause PO4 to plummet which can flat out kill corals. GFO is dangerous. Purigen question, it's an older bag that's in there? Not recharged or replaced recently? Other random ideas. Older tank, deeper sandbed and it released some sulpher... whatever it is into the water? Massive KH spike. Contaminant in the water, possibly chloramines since it's related to a water change. Hopefully you can turn it around.
  2. Frogspawn Dying?

    Yep, you have the slower pumps so that makes perfect sense. I'm always torn on doing something or nothing. In this case riding it out might be good, but if it's a contaminant then waiting is bad. So no additives other than two part? Nothing to adjust PH? Nothing to lower PO4? If no then the contaminant must be in the water, probably the new water OR something was spilled / dropped into the tank.
  3. Frogspawn Dying?

    You're scaring me just a bit. First, look at the size of my slimer in my 150 gallon (link in signature), also note size of frog on the right side of the tank. SPS corals do not produce toxins like soft corals do, nor does any stony coral that I know of. 2 part dosing should be very small for you, 10 minutes is an insane amount. I'm using 110 ml of each part daily, dosed 10 minutes apart, divided into 24 daily doses. I don't see anything in your tank that would use that much Alk, my guess is your usage would be 20ml a day at the very most. I suspect you had a typo above or your dosers are very very slow. Regardless, never hurts to cover the basics.
  4. Frogspawn Dying?

    The slimer is not toxic to anything though it can kill if something touches it. A rapid Alk swing could do this but I would have expected the slimer to brown and die first. If the slimer dies in the next week then Alk swing is probably the culprit, they can show a delayed reaction to water quality issues. Run the nanobox with mostly blues for a while and see if anything changes. I don't thin that's an issue though. You haven't tried to alter PH or anything like that, correct? No new additives, anything else? To grow such a large colony and then have this happen is worrisome. Have you ever supplemented for Alk loss or has it always been RSCP? Water changes for Alk won't work with SPS by the way, you will eventually run into issues if/when the slimer starts to use up ALk and calcium.
  5. If it's really varying TDS the membrane may be torn. If it's a new DI filter then I question the 10 TDS. Even if the RO is torn the DI will do it's job for a number of gallons before exhausting, the RO is simply there to prolong the life of the DI. This is your original unit, or a new one?
  6. Urgent help my lieutenant tang need help

    Biofilters are like that, then tend to setup where they want, not where we want. Seachem Prime, water changes, and if the old tank is still around get as much into this tank as possible. How did you keep the biofilter alive during the move? Rocks always wet? Always with fish, moved all at once? New or old sandbed? You already have nitrite which indicates the cycle is progressing.
  7. Urgent help my lieutenant tang need help

    Why is ammonia high and, to be brutally honest, why are you surprised that the fish is not doing well. Right now the ammonia is burning his gills and he will die without immediate action.
  8. Mark's 150 (NanoBox Retro)

    Thanks, appreciate it. I have found and saved the hardest coral to grow in this tank. It's the pretty ones that refuse to spread.
  9. Mark's Nanobox Powered 40B

    It's been a month with the new light, running only LED (I did turn on T5's for these photos). I have ramped up the lights and except for the leptoseris, which I had to move and then fortunately got shaded by Xenia, there were no adverse reactions from any of the corals. I think growth has increased as well. Torch coral is still in slow decline so I've started to run carbon to see if the leather toxins are the culprit. I had to destroy yet another mushroom moving in to attack this blasto. Shrooms, love em and hate em. After removing the Xenia that had surrounded the lepto it appears to have completely recovered from a little bleaching. Does not like a lot of light so now way over on the very side of the tank.
  10. My First ATI ICP Test - Results Are In!

    Looks like all tests are throwing up random numbers. ATI looks good enough. I would ignore Aluminum, or Aluminium in a single test, instead do another test in a month or so and look for change. If things are not changing then it's background noise IMO.
  11. My First ATI ICP Test - Results Are In!

    Nope I wonder how accurate they are compared to ... that other test.
  12. Frogspawn Dying?

    Frogs are very sensitive to rapid changes in nutrients, mine seems to ignore Alk. If I drop PO4 or NO3 too low it suffers. I coudl keep acros before I could keep Frogsoawns and Hammers healthy, it was maddening. Nowadays I only have to worry about health in my smaller 40 gallon tank, and when they start to shrink I know PO4 is too low and I actually dose it (Seachem Phosphorus). In my large tank, even with super low PO4 my giant Frogspawn seems oblivious, maybe because there's more fish and more food particles in the water. I killed a 10 head blue trumpet coral by dosing PhosphateRx to lower PO4 3 days in a row. By the end of the week that coral was gone and the frogs and hammers very unhappy. GFO can do this as well, and it can happen quick. Have you done any other maintenance besides the water change? If not, and if the tank is older, I would suspect some kind of contaminant. One more thing: duncans are always closed until night This is wrong, they only do that if the light is too bright or something else is seriously wrong.
  13. My First ATI ICP Test - Results Are In!

    Consider yourself flogged for not actually posting results.
  14. Mark's 150 (NanoBox Retro)

    OK, it's been a while. Mostly good news, some bad news. After reading 2ppb Phosphate and 0 Nitrate I backed off PhosphateRx to 1 drop every other day and I started dosing 2 drops CaNO3 daily. After about a month I read 5 Nitrates and have not tested PO4, I assume it's higher than before butnot too high. You know who likes Nitrates, the more the better. Compare these to my last top downs a couple of pages back. LOL. Even one of the frags, on the very left of the tank (left side of the pic) under very low light is putting on a show. The Katropora converts Nitrates directly into color. I have more top downs but first here is the bad news. I have called this beautiful acro everything but a strawberry shortcake, but it has now revealed it's true identity. This started yesterday and it was fast, but has now paused. It's been hurting for a month, it first showed up when PO4 dropped so low and adding nitrate, while it's brightened up the red, has not led to a recovery. Unless the yellow comes back this acro is doomed to die. I've chopped away every coral it was fighting with to give it some space. I used a turkey baster to blow away any detritus buildup and re-aimed the pumps to try and increase flow over it. No polyp extension, base turned to blue, skin very tight, not puffy at all. Not a good sign. Fingers crossed. Ok, back to good. This is the only frag I've added to the tank in the last year. Looks like what some call a blue slimer? Grows fast, really fast, and is going to need more space quickly. Remember I moved the Lokani up on top of the peach dragon? It would appear the Red Robin enjoys nitrates as well. Damn thing is red. This is Emerald something or another from Unique Corals. Very pretty from the top, very meh from the front. This one, oh it's so close now. It has really nice pink tips when healthy and I crashed my tank days after I got a frag, kept just a bit alive, and ever so slowly it grew and very very slowly colored up. This one was a nice red before being shaded then attacked by both the slimer and purple stylo. I cleared space for it a month ago and it's healthy but still working on coloring back up. Palmers Blue Milli. Yep. Hey, at least it's growing now. I have my birds, just trapped over on the left side. Green with crazy bird below it. Pink Milli up top is a very nice pink, very bright. And how about the Sarmentosa. Survived the crash, took 1.5 years to re-encrust, and is now finally starting to grow new branches with some slightly pink tips. Sold to me as a Hawkins, I don't think it is, too green. Slimer with blue stag on the left. Blue stag has never regained the nice blue it had prior to the crash. Slimer with Hairy Horrida on the left. Look at the nice blue, only visible when polyps are blown around. FTS
  15. SNG's 90g.

    Excellent, the tank is up and running and already looks good. Hopefully smooth sailing from here.