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Maxspect Razor Owners thread


Daveg99

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Not reaching. Expanding as in side to side. I have nem dominated tank. I'm only ramping up so fast is because they were at 80% 90% with eshine. Of course I slowly acclimated with eshine.

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Question: I have the Razor Nano 16K on a Nuvo 8 gal tank, what setting should I set if I want to keep sps or Clam, and how high should I set the light above the water?

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Hey guys! I have a quick question for you all.

 

I have a 30 gallon cube (20" W x 18" D x 20" H) that houses my seahorses along with photosynthetic gorgonians, softies, and macros. It currently has a Coralife 20" 96W quad powercompact fixture that came with the tank, but I definitely want to upgrade to LEDs. I hear such great things about the Maxspect Razor fixtures and the Razor Nano seems like it would be the perfect dimensions. I think it would look sleek mounted on my cube tank. I just want to double check that it will be enough lighting. My only concern is the depth of the tank, but I think it will be fine considering the current fixture isn't all that powerful. I only need moderate light since this tank will never house any clams, SPS, or even LPS corals. The highest light requirements will be for the photosynthetic gorgonians.

 

My second question is whether to get the 10,000K or the 16,000K fixture. I have a preference for a more neutral white blend of light on my tanks than the cool blue windex look. Also, the macros and gorgonians that dominate this tank don't fluoresce under blue light, so they actually look better under whiter light. That makes me think the 10,000K is the way to go, but most people seem to buy the 16,000K fixture. Please chime in with opinions on which you think you be better! Thanks!

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Hey, so how about those prototype fixtures for the big tanks? Anyone got any news on those? I'm talking the 200w-300w ones.

EDIT: 300w 48" beast comes out in December! :lol:

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  • 4 weeks later...

OK I finally pulled the trigger on the 20" razor for my Nuvo 16. I have two stock lights currently my Razor should be here by Thursday. Question: What should I do to add it to my tank, I have no xp with nice lights so should I acclimate my fish and corals (softies and LPS) or can I just add the light and enter one of the program modes :) Thanks !

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Hey guys just started a new 24x24x12 shallow reef build and I really like the maxspect fixtures. I will be keeping lps, softies, and eventually an anenome and a clam. Do you think I would be ok with the nano version or would I be better off with the 120W 20.5 inch fixture? Also, what would give me better color and growth, 10k or 16k? Thanks guys!!

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OK All I have my razor set up and I LOVE IT. I have it on a custom set up so that I dont fry my coral and fish at first and it goes up to 55% at peak. So what does adjusting the A & B do meaning...., if I add more A will it make it more white and if I add more B it will make it more blue etc? Just trying to get a feel with out completely messing with it. THanks

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FYI.. anyone thinking about going with the 3 puck 16k for a 48,don't! Spend the extra $100 and do the new 4 puck.

 

I wishing I would have waited now but F* it , I'm just lucky enough to be part of a group here in Houston that has a par meter so I just moved my corals to spots they will benefit out of the lights.

IMAG0024_ZOE005_SHOT.jpg

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OK All I have my razor set up and I LOVE IT. I have it on a custom set up so that I dont fry my coral and fish at first and it goes up to 55% at peak. So what does adjusting the A & B do meaning...., if I add more A will it make it more white and if I add more B it will make it more blue etc? Just trying to get a feel with out completely messing with it. THanks

 

Yep, A is mostly your white LEDs and B is your blues. They have a detailed breakdown of each channel, color/frequency here. http://maxspectusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20&Itemid=21

 

Just scroll down to near the bottom.

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This is probably another stupid question. But how can I set it for the sun to set at like 10 totally then the moon comes out and then it goes completely dark at like 2am - 6am?

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Hey guys! I have a quick question for you all. I have a 30 gallon cube (20" W x 18" D x 20" H) that houses my seahorses along with photosynthetic gorgonians, softies, and macros. It currently has a Coralife 20" 96W quad powercompact fixture that came with the tank, but I definitely want to upgrade to LEDs. I hear such great things about the Maxspect Razor fixtures and the Razor Nano seems like it would be the perfect dimensions. I think it would look sleek mounted on my cube tank. I just want to double check that it will be enough lighting. My only concern is the depth of the tank, but I think it will be fine considering the current fixture isn't all that powerful. I only need moderate light since this tank will never house any clams, SPS, or even LPS corals. The highest light requirements will be for the photosynthetic gorgonians. My second question is whether to get the 10,000K or the 16,000K fixture. I have a preference for a more neutral white blend of light on my tanks than the cool blue windex look. Also, the macros and gorgonians that dominate this tank don't fluoresce under blue light, so they actually look better under whiter light. That makes me think the 10,000K is the way to go, but most people seem to buy the 16,000K fixture. Please chime in with opinions on which you think you be better! Thanks!

When tuned at 50/50, the 16K razor is really pretty white. You'll notice that most people that have these push the blues higher even on the 16K model. If you are switching from power compacts to LED's you probably only need like 1/3rd to a quarter of the wattage you are currently using, so you'll be running the light at like 25% max initially. That will give you plenty of room to adjust the color temperature to your liking. Frankly, if you like white, you'll be able to turn the blues off entirely if that look is what you are after.I have a 16K razor sitting on a similar sized 18" deep tank. That razor is set to max out at 50% blues and 40% white. I have SPS sitting on the sand.And if you ever decide to sell, it will be better to have the 16K version.

 

This is probably another stupid question. But how can I set it for the sun to set at like 10 totally then the moon comes out and then it goes completely dark at like 2am - 6am?

You'll need to set one of the six programs to zero blues and zero whites. I think I have my first one set to zero, so it turns off at midnight and then starts coming back on midway between midnight and whatever time that I set for dawn, which is program #2.
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This is probably another stupid question. But how can I set it for the sun to set at like 10 totally then the moon comes out and then it goes completely dark at like 2am - 6am?

 

I guess you'd have to quantify what it means for the sun to set and the then the moon comes out.

 

If you mean you want both channels to get dimmer and dimmer, and then have the blue light get a bit brigher to simulate the moon "coming out" you'd do something like this

 

6:30PM: A=25 B=40

10:00PM: A=0 B=0

1:30AM: A=0 B=1

2:00AM A=0 B=0

 

The first time point is just an example. Nothing special about 25, 40. This would cause the light to go off completely at 10:00 and then, I beleive, would turn the B=1 on at 10:01PM and it would continue at B=1 until 2:00, I believe. Since the light "ramps up and down" I don't know what it does when it's supposed to ramp up or down by 1 over a long period of time. Since 1 and 0 are essentially "on" and "off" and there is no granularity between.

 

If you just want your daylight to transition to moonlight, change that 10:00PM timepoint to A=0 B=1. Then it wont go off and then turn right back on the next minute.

 

Most foilks, however, feel the "moonlight" option, which is channel B on 1% is much too bright for moonlight, anyways, and I tend to agree.

 

But that's how you'd do it. Hope it helped.

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I guess you'd have to quantify what it means for the sun to set and the then the moon comes out.

 

If you mean you want both channels to get dimmer and dimmer, and then have the blue light get a bit brigher to simulate the moon "coming out" you'd do something like this

 

6:30PM: A=25 B=40

10:00PM: A=0 B=0

1:30AM: A=0 B=1

2:00AM A=0 B=0

 

The first time point is just an example. Nothing special about 25, 40. This would cause the light to go off completely at 10:00 and then, I beleive, would turn the B=1 on at 10:01PM and it would continue at B=1 until 2:00, I believe. Since the light "ramps up and down" I don't know what it does when it's supposed to ramp up or down by 1 over a long period of time. Since 1 and 0 are essentially "on" and "off" and there is no granularity between.

 

If you just want your daylight to transition to moonlight, change that 10:00PM timepoint to A=0 B=1. Then it wont go off and then turn right back on the next minute.

 

Most foilks, however, feel the "moonlight" option, which is channel B on 1% is much too bright for moonlight, anyways, and I tend to agree.

 

But that's how you'd do it. Hope it helped.

That does help Thank you for the responce!

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FYI.. anyone thinking about going with the 3 puck 16k for a 48,don't! Spend the extra $100 and do the new 4 puck.

 

I wishing I would have waited now but F* it , I'm just lucky enough to be part of a group here in Houston that has a par meter so I just moved my corals to spots they will benefit out of the lights.

IMAG0024_ZOE005_SHOT.jpg

It looks like you should hang the light to get it higher off the tank to get better spread.

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FYI.. anyone thinking about going with the 3 puck 16k for a 48,don't! Spend the extra $100 and do the new 4 puck.

 

I wishing I would have waited now but F* it , I'm just lucky enough to be part of a group here in Houston that has a par meter so I just moved my corals to spots they will benefit out of the lights.

Where did you hear about a 4 puck version? I thought the only new razor maxspect was making was the 6 puck 300w.

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It looks like you should hang the light to get it higher off the tank to get better spread.

My plan is to hang it , just waiting to see what color my wife is going to pick to paint the walls.

 

 

Where did you hear about a 4 puck version? I thought the only new razor maxspect was making was the 6 puck 300w.

Sorry I ment 6

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What do you think the MAX percentages that I can run my 120w 14k Razor thats 6 inches above my Nuvo 16 are for the peak time? Also what will make it more white? Will running way more A then B make it whiter?

 

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mine should be here tomorrow. 120 going over a 30 gallon JBJ rimless. I have heard mixed reviews about SPS color. The 8gallon I am moving from has almost all SPS frags. Moving to a larger tank for growth opportunity. Anyone have an SPS dominated tank that can offer experiences/pointers?

 

Thanks,

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Which size razor would you guys recommend for a Mr. Aqua 12 long?

 

At almost 36" long you aren't going to get coverage on the edges with the 20.5" unit unless you hang it super high, which would cause a ton of spill-over. That would be fine if you are cool with that. Since the tank is shallow, you would have no problem generating a ton of PAR at the sand-bed even if the light is hung high.

 

If you don't want a ton of light spill-over with a small footprint like that, I'd think a 27" (160W) unit hung fairly low would be the only way. But with a tank that shallow, you probably couldn't run it over 30% ever if you did the 160W.

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