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Coral Vue Hydros

2.7 Gallon AIO Pico Reef Setup


plantarms

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love you tank and your scape work :) pretty cool! :) y is your sexy shrimp in the fuge? lol :) looking forward in how this turns out :) i'll be tracking this thread :ninja:

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thanks, the shrimp is in the fuge because a while back when i got my trumpet coral it kept bothering it and picking at it, so he's been in the fuge since then.

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just got a new duncan coral today, i've been looking for this for a while! any input on how duncans do under led?

 

DSCN4042.jpg

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the palys look like a some kind of PE. atleast the mouths do anyway. those duncans are awesome. i think everything does good under leds, they just have to adjust. now the "see the light" lol

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yeah i thought they might be a PE, can't tell anymore though because they haven't opened since i got them. on the other hand the duncans are doing great!

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  • 2 weeks later...

my laptop is currently broken and i am in the process of building a new computer. not many new updates, duncans are doing great, they have opened up very large now and i have been feeding them every other day. trumpets look almost completely split at this point. i lowered the level of my lighting recently and it has really helped! the zoas look bigger and everything seems to be doing much better. the PE zoas are still not doing well and have not opened since i got them.

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I'm thinking of building my own pico and LED (just finished putting LEDs on my biocub 14 about three months ago and need a new project). Anyway, I was wondering if you could describe a little more in detail how you made the ATO. I saw the link you posted about where you bought the float switch and that you use an aqualifter, but which switch did you use? There were a bunch of them on that site. And how does the switch get wired to the aqualifter? What other, if any, supplies do I need?

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sweet, yeah the ato is probably one of the best things i have built for this tank, it's pretty simple and inexpensive but sames a ton of time. here is a list of what i used

 

airline tubing - $2

anti-siphon value (just in case) - $2

Gatorade bottle (as a reservoir) - $0

Aqualifter - $10 +shipping

Float Switch (from this website float switch #FLT015) $7 +shipping

A way to mount the float switch (i used an old heater holder with suction cups)

Wire caps or electrical tape

Costs around $25 plus shipping, and it has worked better than my JBJ ATO ever did

 

For the water reservoir you can really use anything you want, i used a gallon gatorade bottle because it lasts for several weeks on my pico and if for some reason it fails (hasn't yet) then i'm only dumping one gallon. you just have to have the tubing from the aqualifter that pulls water in the reservior.

 

I added an anti-siphon valve in-line with the tubing that goes from the aqualifter into the tank so that there is no possibility of creating a siphon from the tank and draining out any water (it has happened before)

 

(Make sure nothing is plugged in at this point)

As far as wiring goes you will have to cut the cord of the aqualifter clean off. Then pull apart the two wires about two inches so they kind of split a little like a "Y" on both the ends that lead to the plug and the ends that lead to the main pump. This gives you some room to work with. Then strip the wires on all 4 ends.

 

Now wire the float switch in-line with one side of the power cord wires and reconnect the other two wires. Add end caps and/or electrical tape.

 

Put the end of the airline tubing connected to the intake side of the aqualifter in a water source and the output side tubing in the tank (hold it to the tank with a suction cup or some plastic tubing)

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you dont really need that anti syphon vavle if you simply raise the air line, going out of the aqualifter to your tank, above the tank's water level and have it drip in...?

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no you wouldn't but i imagine its a good idea. If it would ever slip in by accident it would be good insurance. I don't know how much you know about electronics and wiring but I was reading on that site that they recommend using a relay so it doesn't burn out the float switch.. Any thoughts?

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long time no see.......pics

i know, laptop went down so i just built a new i7-930 desktop. i currently dont have a memory card slot in my computer, still working on that, and the usb cable isn't around so i have no way to update pics at this point, i will hopefully have some up within the week

 

you dont really need that anti syphon vavle if you simply raise the air line, going out of the aqualifter to your tank, above the tank's water level and have it drip in...?

+1 to what laxilla said, you don't need it if you have the tubing above the water level, but if it ever does drop in and starts siphoning out of the tank (which i have had happen before) then it really sucks. might as well get a $2 part to be sure, especially since most of us keep our electronics right near the tank

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no you wouldn't but i imagine its a good idea. If it would ever slip in by accident it would be good insurance. I don't know how much you know about electronics and wiring but I was reading on that site that they recommend using a relay so it doesn't burn out the float switch.. Any thoughts?

good info! my knowledge of electronics is fairly limited, however i'm currently trying to build an aquarium controller that uses an arduino micro controller and solid state relays to run all the parts of my aquarium including the float switch. i was recommended to use a mechanical relay in-line with a solid state relay for my float switch in case the solid state relay failed on by a member on nano-reef, however i haven't gotten to this part in the build

 

I am assuming this is what you are talking about? I have never seen that before but it makes a lot of sense, I would hate for the float switch to fail due to a voltage spike. i think it makes sense to use a relay for these and i will probably go ahead and put one of mine in soon, however I have been running my ATO for about 6 months without any problems so far. maybe i've just been lucky?

http://www.chicagosensor.com/SpikingVoltage.html

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Yep that's exactly what I was talking about. Good luck with your controller. I'm very interested in how it turns out. Keep the updates coming!

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Yep that's exactly what I was talking about. Good luck with your controller. I'm very interested in how it turns out. Keep the updates coming!

Thanks, it's going really slow right now due to cost and time but i'm getting there

 

What kind of zoas ore those in the front of your tank? They match the GSP well. Very limey.

i'm think you're talking about the eagle eyes?

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Mr. Microscope
i'm think you're talking about the eagle eyes?

Is it just the photo? Those look like they have a purple center. Aren't Eagle Eyes orange in the center?

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Is it just the photo? Those look like they have a purple center. Aren't Eagle Eyes orange in the center?

it may just be the photo, they have a neon green skirt, then purple ring, orange ring, purple ring, and a small green eye, there are more pictures earlier in the thread of them

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How are the duncans doing? What % do you have your LED's at? I have a duncan frag in another tank and am curious as to how they have reacted to higher light.

 

Tank looks great BTW!

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How are the duncans doing? What % do you have your LED's at? I have a duncan frag in another tank and am curious as to how they have reacted to higher light.

 

Tank looks great BTW!

the duncans are doing great! i actually just left them for three days and came back and they are still doing awesome. i have my LED's set at about 30% at this point, they're running pretty low. i have noticed that since i have turned down my LED's from when i first got the duncans they have extended a lot more. i have them at a good level now. thanks!

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