Skinnysloth Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 How much change in the code is required to make use of a ds1307 rtc? Not asking you to do it since I'm using the Jarduino sketch at the moment, but wondering if it's a big code rewrite. I'm using the Jarduino program to control my DT leds and have a spare arduino setup to mess around with other controllers. I have the Stilo controller on the spare and like to try out other controllers. I've even had yours on the spare, but of course the rtc didn't work since I'm using the ds1307. 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 How much change in the code is required to make use of a ds1307 rtc? Not asking you to do it since I'm using the Jarduino sketch at the moment, but wondering if it's a big code rewrite. I'm using the Jarduino program to control my DT leds and have a spare arduino setup to mess around with other controllers. I have the Stilo controller on the spare and like to try out other controllers. I've even had yours on the spare, but of course the rtc didn't work since I'm using the ds1307. Quite a bit of change unfortunately. Originally it was two or three lines, but now that I have all the buttons, it's a little harder. You would need to go in and change all the rtc.write() and Time t() stuff and all things like that. Quote Link to comment
Cheese-Lover Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 *Following*Looks like I'm building one of these as soon as I get my paycheck at my new job.Anyone say overkill for a femto tank currently running with an air bubbler, LED's for heat+light and a noctura fan for cooling... <.<Anyway, I wanted to say thanks for putting as much info out there as you have. And keep up the good work. If you ever hit Australia, I'd be buying you a beer. 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 *Following* Looks like I'm building one of these as soon as I get my paycheck at my new job. Anyone say overkill for a femto tank currently running with an air bubbler, LED's for heat+light and a noctura fan for cooling... <.< Anyway, I wanted to say thanks for putting as much info out there as you have. And keep up the good work. If you ever hit Australia, I'd be buying you a beer. Thanks! Actually, for such a small aquarium, you might consider this: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/328101-attiny84-aquarium-controller-cheapbeta-code-up/ Quote Link to comment
Confuse Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I noticed the title on your thread. I bought the original time module you suggested. Will I need to purchase a different one? Or what exactly is changing? 1 Quote Link to comment
Confuse Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 And I forgot to ask....On the interface. Is it possible to adjust all the colors from one screen? Like maybe make +/- buttons next to where the percentages are? Or maybe down the line a sliding graph like the EcoTech program has. I know we're getting waaaay ahead of ourselves. I just always found it difficult to adjust my Sol Blue's channels one at a time. 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 I noticed the title on your thread. I bought the original time module you suggested. Will I need to purchase a different one? Or what exactly is changing? Nothing is changing, I think I just shorted out my RTC by accident. You still need a DS1302. And I forgot to ask....On the interface. Is it possible to adjust all the colors from one screen? Like maybe make +/- buttons next to where the percentages are? Or maybe down the line a sliding graph like the EcoTech program has. I know we're getting waaaay ahead of ourselves. I just always found it difficult to adjust my Sol Blue's channels one at a time. It is all programmed by hour, but I am making a "test" screen where the lights can be set to specific percentages. A slider is very unlikely. IMO, using one on such a small screen would be detrimental due to the accuracy. Quote Link to comment
Cheese-Lover Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Thanks! Actually, for such a small aquarium, you might consider this: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/328101-attiny84-aquarium-controller-cheapbeta-code-up/ I had something very similar to this setup... A 10w solar panel connected to a 6w driver... Stupid as it sounds, it works. I'm looking at building the bigger one, and possibly move it to my next tank build. Hell. I might make both. 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 I had something very similar to this setup... A 10w solar panel connected to a 6w driver... Stupid as it sounds, it works. I'm looking at building the bigger one, and possibly move it to my next tank build. Hell. I might make both. Actually, you just opened my eyes to something new: Using a solar panel powered off the tank lights to power a small controller! 1 Quote Link to comment
Cheese-Lover Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Powering a controller off the tanks lights... Interesting. I like it. You'll have to have a battery backup for night time, but if you can get the power draw down low enough, it should work.Biggest problem I see is mounting a solar panel in a good spot to pickup light.To my sketchbook to work out a solution! 1 Quote Link to comment
AMAYEU Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 If you run opposite photoperiods for display and fuge then possible. 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 If you run opposite photoperiods for display and fuge then possible. This is getting better and better. Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Well, I figured out how to connect multiple sensors. Making a quick poll. Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 Small pH circuit: http://www.66pacific.com/ph/simplest_ph.aspx I will use this circuit with this controller. Quote Link to comment
Confuse Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Great news! Apparently I wired my DS1302 right!! And even better news, the program compiled! Now I gotta start wiring the LDD boards. Off topic but worth a shot....do you use a regular soldering iron to connect the components on the LDD board? Some of that stuff is tiny (resistors). 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Unless it's SMD resistors, it shouldn't be a problem. If it is SMD resistors, see if you can retrofit a normal through-hole resistor into place. Quote Link to comment
Confuse Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Unless it's SMD resistors, it shouldn't be a problem. If it is SMD resistors, see if you can retrofit a normal through-hole resistor into place. I am using SMD resistors. I'm not quite sure what you mean though... 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 I am using SMD resistors. I'm not quite sure what you mean though... SMD resistors are tiny little things that are only 1-2mm in length. Through-hole resistors are much larger and are easy to solder. Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 Adding a poll on the number of channels you want to see. After all, this is the Ultimate Led controller. Quote Link to comment
Cheese-Lover Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 The more channels the merrier as far as I am concerned... But being that this is nano-reef, ~6 should be sufficent for most people... 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 The more channels the merrier as far as I am concerned... But being that this is nano-reef, ~6 should be sufficent for most people... Well, if you want to control 4 tanks simoultaneously, then you want like 8 channels, right? But I'll do the other stuff on the agenda first. Quote Link to comment
disaster999 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 just got the arduino, sheild and TFT screen question, how do you access the PWM 6-12 pins with the shield in the way? I got the right angle pins like you suggested but im still not really sure. Meep, do you have a picture of your actual setup? 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 You remove the female headers on the Mega board, then solder the right angle headers in their place. I have pictures here. Step by step: 1. Remove headers. Just pull until they come off. Don't worry if some of the metal comes off too, just get it off. 2. This is what the Mega looks like after removing the plastic shell of the female headers. 3. Heat the solder pads and remove the solder with a solder sucker. Then, remove the leftover headers. You should end up with this: 4. Solder the right angle headers in. And that's it. You then put the shield back on. Remove all the headers that interfere with the wiring diagram. You should be removing 3 sets of headers IIRC. DO NOT remove the headers over the power pins. The shield needs the power. Just solder some wires to the bottom of the Arduino for power. Quote Link to comment
disaster999 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 ahh..ok this makes more sense now. 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 ahh..ok this makes more sense now. Good. I thought it was kind of unclear. 1 Quote Link to comment
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