Meepduino: 2.0 RELEASED!

[wabibito]

Sorry if this answered before. I read through all the pages and doesn't seems to find it.

 

I tried to compile the 1.5 code and i get "no matching function for call to 'UTFT::UTFT(int, int, int, int, int)' "

 

I did copy the UTFT into the lib folder.

[MeepNand]

Sorry if this answered before. I read through all the pages and doesn't seems to find it.

 

I tried to compile the 1.5 code and i get "no matching function for call to 'UTFT::UTFT(int, int, int, int, int)' "

 

I did copy the UTFT into the lib folder.

Some screenshots would help. If it still doesn't work, try reloading the software. If it still doesn't work, go to Henning Karlson and look up the UTFT library for Arudino, and download it. Extract and drop the extracted folder into the libraries folder.

[Horerczy]

Radioshack is completely overpriced. Transistors are $0.50 each, where you can buy a 100 pack on ebay for $2 with 4 day shipping.

However, I did use a couple radioshack parts in a pinch.

Having all the parts laid out in front of me helps with visualization. All I got was a snazzy project box for eight bucks.

 

I did get some interesting ideas for an ato though. Just uses a rather pricey sensor.

[L0st]

The screen turns on fine now and I was unable to extend the screen away from the mega so it's still directly connected to it. I was however going to make an acrylic enclosure for it, still drawing it up right now. I also encountered some complications when wiring all this together. At first I wanted to screen + shield and mega to be housed together in one box connected by a cable to a second box housing the power supplies, drivers, RTC, and terminal block. When I did this there was a long cable connecting the RTC to the mega which caused the time function to not work properly and continuously blink and reset. I thought I received a faulty RTC but after a lot of trial and error I figured that the connection between them needed to be shorter. So now I have the RTC + screen + mega + shield all together.

[MeepNand]

Having all the parts laid out in front of me helps with visualization. All I got was a snazzy project box for eight bucks.

 

I did get some interesting ideas for an ato though. Just uses a rather pricey sensor.

Tell me more. is it an optical sensor?

 

The screen turns on fine now and I was unable to extend the screen away from the mega so it's still directly connected to it. I was however going to make an acrylic enclosure for it, still drawing it up right now. I also encountered some complications when wiring all this together. At first I wanted to screen + shield and mega to be housed together in one box connected by a cable to a second box housing the power supplies, drivers, RTC, and terminal block. When I did this there was a long cable connecting the RTC to the mega which caused the time function to not work properly and continuously blink and reset. I thought I received a faulty RTC but after a lot of trial and error I figured that the connection between them needed to be shorter. So now I have the RTC + screen + mega + shield all together.

Interesting. The time function doesn't not work for me sometimes, but that was faulty wiring on my part.

[Horerczy]

Tell me more. is it an optical sensor?

It's an ultrasonic sensor to gauge distance. It's a bit pricey and honestly I'm not entirely sure it would work.

 

http://www.robotshop.com/parallax-ping-ultrasonic-sensor.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=jos

 

Edit: found one on amazon for $5:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8TOE6/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0J56G6FHGKDP1C9VYPKK&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846

[Reefed419]

Interesting product there, would you pair it with a dosing pump, or air lifter?

[MeepNand]

It's an ultrasonic sensor to gauge distance. It's a bit pricey and honestly I'm not entirely sure it would work.

 

http://www.robotshop.com/parallax-ping-ultrasonic-sensor.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=jos

 

Edit: found one on amazon for $5:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8TOE6/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0J56G6FHGKDP1C9VYPKK&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846

You can get those on ebay for cheap.

 

EDIT: Seems kind of sketch IMO. How would that work?

[Horerczy]

It uses pings to measure distance. I found a bit of info on Arduino Basics that says it's been used for mesasuring water levels so I would imagine it's posible to make it work in this application.

 

The SRF-06 version would be better though as it has a temperature compensator.

 

In the end though the simplicity of a float switch will probably be best as the ultrasonic sensors would have to be calibrated on a tank by tank basis.

[MeepNand]

It uses pings to measure distance. I found a bit of info on Arduino Basics that says it's been used for mesasuring water levels so I would imagine it's posible to make it work in this application.

 

The SRF-06 version would be better though as it has a temperature compensator.

 

In the end though the simplicity of a float switch will probably be best as the ultrasonic sensors would have to be calibrated on a tank by tank basis.

Calibration isn't a problem; I could just add a button for that. But I don't like the reliability of those as I am unfamiliar with the technology. I'll check it out in more detail tomorrow.

[Horerczy]

Calibration isn't a problem; I could just add a button for that. But I don't like the reliability of those as I am unfamiliar with the technology. I'll check it out in more detail tomorrow.

When I said calibration I meant programming.

 

If my Evap Chamber is 24"*24" and someone elses is 12"*12" and both were programmed to tell the controller to turn on a relay controlling the ATO pump with the same distances then my chamber would lose twice as much water before starting at the other persons causing greater parameter swings. That said it wouldn't be a problem for me seeing as I never plan on getting any high maintenance corals.

[MeepNand]

When I said calibration I meant programming.

 

If my Evap Chamber is 24"*24" and someone elses is 12"*12" and both were programmed to tell the controller to turn on a relay controlling the ATO pump with the same distances then my chamber would lose twice as much water before starting at the other persons causing greater parameter swings. That said it wouldn't be a problem for me seeing as I never plan on getting any high maintenance corals.

The way I would go about it is add a "calibration button"; whenever the button is pressed, it sets the "normal" as the current state.

That way, as long as the signal is different, it will work. Of course, I'll still look up how to get a reading, but there you go.

[Horerczy]

Neat.

 

I got some of my parts in today. I assume the right angle headers are to be broken up to full the pins the LCD shield would otherwise block.

[disaster999]

hey MeepNand, sorry in advance if this was answered earlier, i didnt skim through the entire thread.

 

how many channels can the mega2560 handle? i have 8 drivers that drives my light, 2 for whites, 4 for royal blues and 2 for the full spectrum colors. can one channel on the mega2560 control 2 or more drivers at the same time?

 

thanks

[MeepNand]

hey MeepNand, sorry in advance if this was answered earlier, i didnt skim through the entire thread.

 

how many channels can the mega2560 handle? i have 8 drivers that drives my light, 2 for whites, 4 for royal blues and 2 for the full spectrum colors. can one channel on the mega2560 control 2 or more drivers at the same time?

 

thanks

A single channel can control a lot of drivers, provided they are PWM compatible. All you do is use a 10k resistor attached to the PWM port, and attach as many drivers as you want onto the other end of the resistor. Use the wiring diagram but wire two drivers to the same point.

 

Neat.

 

I got some of my parts in today. I assume the right angle headers are to be broken up to full the pins the LCD shield would otherwise block.

That's right.

[Horerczy]

That's right.

Good. Glad to know I did it right. I already put the shield on and don't want to bother with taking it off.

[MeepNand]

Good. Glad to know I did it right. I already put the shield on and don't want to bother with taking it off.

You haven't melted the headers yet.

[Horerczy]

You haven't melted the headers yet.

I'll get around to that after I spear myself with a couple male to male breadboard cables and see if I light up with a 5v pwm signal.

[MeepNand]

Make sure to put resistors on.

Hmm. I might put this on hold for a while while I make a how-to vid.

[Horerczy]

Make sure to put resistors on.

Hmm. I might put this on hold for a while while I make a how-to vid.

I'll have to wait then those are the last part I'm expecting to get. or the transistors. not sure which will get here last.

[disaster999]

A single channel can control a lot of drivers, provided they are PWM compatible. All you do is use a 10k resistor attached to the PWM port, and attach as many drivers as you want onto the other end of the resistor. Use the wiring diagram but wire two drivers to the same point.

 

Thanks Meep,

 

just wanna make sure what i think im ordering will work with the controller

 

Freaduino mega 2560

http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/freaduino-mega2560-white-color-p-365.html

Arduino mega sheild

http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/lcd-tft01-arduino-mega-shield-v20-p-214.html

3.2" TFT Screen

http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/32-tft-lcd-screen-module-tft0132-p-113.html

 

prices on that website is mad expensive, but I can get all those for around 45 shipped from a china "ebay" equiv site.

 

Ill also get a timer which were easy enough to find. i wont be using the temp prob for now since i dont have any overheating issue.

[MeepNand]

Thanks Meep,

 

just wanna make sure what i think im ordering will work with the controller

 

Freaduino mega 2560

http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/freaduino-mega2560-white-color-p-365.html

Arduino mega sheild

http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/lcd-tft01-arduino-mega-shield-v20-p-214.html

3.2" TFT Screen

http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/32-tft-lcd-screen-module-tft0132-p-113.html

 

prices on that website is mad expensive, but I can get all those for around 45 shipped from a china "ebay" equiv site.

 

Ill also get a timer which were easy enough to find. i wont be using the temp prob for now since i dont have any overheating issue.

Why do you need a timer? The point of this was to eliminate a timer.

Anyway, looks good! But make sure to pick up a DS1302. You need one for it to work.

[Horerczy]

Meep do those relay's you linked in the first post get really hot or something I keep finding them sold with heatsinks.

[disaster999]

Why do you need a timer? The point of this was to eliminate a timer.

Anyway, looks good! But make sure to pick up a DS1302. You need one for it to work.

oh, thats what i ment...the DS1302, i just called it a timer, haha

[MeepNand]

Meep do those relay's you linked in the first post get really hot or something I keep finding them sold with heatsinks.

They do get hot, but they support up to 40 amps at 120v. That means it can do 4,800w when heatsinked right.

China gear, so assume something more like 10a, and that means you can safely do 1a at 120v without problems.

 

That means it can support about up to 120w without heatsinking (guesstimate). That's plenty.