dre7606 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Thanks MeepNand I will follow along and try to learn a thing or two along the way. 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Attached are planned new lighting files. I will make a v1.5.1 that's slightly faster, and uses a different style of memory and lighting that is more efficient tomorrow or the day after. Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 v1.5.1 uploaded. I will be adding in the thingy above in the v1.6 update. Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 That is true about cheap and simple, debugging is a lot easier too, you just need your finger and a ohm meter The main thing for me is these AIO nano's do not have much room, and the float switches take up a lot of space. I have the JBJ 28, with two nano floats on the double bracket, it's difficult getting it in around my return pump line. Actually, I have to remove my return pumps every few weeks to backflush them, and I have to twist and wrangle that one near the float switches. I was thinking a nice smooth, simple (no hooks or edges to get caught on) pipe would be a lot easier to work around in the nano. I'm getting ready to start incorporating some DIY LEDs into my Arduino Mega, so I really appreciate your code postings. I'm not trying to use one of the touch screens yet, but that part looks really good too. You know what? I think I might pick up one of these pressure things, so you can do waves. I can still make the fixture compatible with normal float switches too. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXA6115AC6T1/MPXA6115AC6T1-ND/420508 Those can go up to a depth of 4 ft. More than you'll ever need. Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 I looked up how they work, and found that you have two inputs: one a reference pressure (or a 0 pressure level) and a regular pressure tube connected to the place you want to measure pressure from. So one connection goes to a tube in the tank, one unconnected. I'm looking at this one: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134432865&uq=635112405933890526 It gets about 0.1236v/in, with a max water depth of about 40 inches. The arduino measures 0.004v per step. That means the Arduino can measure changes down to about 1/30", with a 5% max error in the measurement. Thank you, kaskiles! EDIT: Wiring is also very simple. Just connect to Arduino and add a few capacitors. Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Finished the new lighting code. Now it's click and drag, and the setting of channels is much faster and easier. The time it takes to change a channel is also lessened the longer you hold down the button. I haven't uploaded it yet so I can add pump control. Quote Link to comment
gus6464 Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 It's either/or for the Mega 2650 and Due right? I don't need both? 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 Yes. One or the other. I recommend using the Due though. It will run much faster. Quote Link to comment
gus6464 Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Yes. One or the other. I recommend using the Due though. It will run much faster. Thanks and the Sain TFT and shield is still plug and play with Due right? 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 Thanks and the Sain TFT and shield is still plug and play with Due right? Mostly. You need to add right angle headers on the Analog pins 0-15. You may have to remove the female headers. Quote Link to comment
BeardedReeferLLC Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Hows your LEDs coming along? 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 Hows your LEDs coming along? That's my new avatar. Pretty well. I've almost got pump control down. Then I'm adding the second temperature sensor. Quote Link to comment
disaster999 Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 the new program does run a little snappier... after 2 ####ing months, im finally getting my LED tomorrow...i can finally finish this light this weekend 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 Good luck! Today and tomorrow I'm finishing up a newer version of the Tyhpon code, so I'll continue work on Monday, hopefully. Quote Link to comment
disaster999 Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 well ive been disappointed for close to 3 months, doesnt hurt to be disappoint once again. that asshole agreed on meeting up this saturday to give me the LED just to cancel on me the last min without even saying anything. I had to call him to confirm if we are meeting that day to know that hes not free.... people these days 2 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Typhon code is very close to done. Everything works, except the equation itself (I'm trying to make a bell curve). I redid the equation just now, so I'll plug it in and hope. If it works, then I'm continuing this today. EDIT: FINALLY got the equation right. I'll plug it in now. DOUBLE EDIT: Scratch that. I just got the TEST to work. There were some problems with variable declaration and math functions. Quote Link to comment
Zeadon Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 hey Meep, im abit new to ardunio but i wanted to try out your controller. so far all i have done is plugged the tft display into the the arduino and compiled and ran the code. it runs and everything displays correctly, however the buttons on the tft display aren't working correctly. is there something im doing wrong? 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Really? Hold on a sec. EDIT: You need a DS1302 attached for it to work. Also, for buttons, you need to press for a second and hold. They are updated every 1/3 second, so you'll need to hold it. Also, using a stylus helps. Quote Link to comment
Zeadon Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Really? Hold on a sec. EDIT: You need a DS1302 attached for it to work. Also, for buttons, you need to press for a second and hold. They are updated every 1/3 second, so you'll need to hold it. Also, using a stylus helps. ah ok thanks, il try it with the DS1302 and update. 1 Quote Link to comment
disaster999 Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 my screen worked but buttons didnt when i first plugged everything in. i had to unplug everything and replug to get everything going again. Sometimes the connection with the arduino, shield and screen arent very secure and the contacts, at least on my unit, was corroded. multiple unplug and replug of everything should scrape off all the corrosion off the contacts 1 Quote Link to comment
Neto Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Can you use a DC step down converter to power up the fans instead of using a separate wall plug psu... Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-HRD-Voltage-Converter-24V-36V-48V-Step-Down-TO-12V-3A-Switch-Power-Module-/400487523005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5d3eeaa2bd#ht_1505wt_1241 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Sure, but you still need to power the converter somehow. Also, you need to be able to control the fan using a mosfet anyway. Quote Link to comment
Reefed419 Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Hey Meep, So you got your running/working again? I was hoping you would not give up completely, I have invested in this project. Glad to hear you are back at it. 1 Quote Link to comment
MeepNand Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 Okay, I just finished the Typhon code, hopefully for good, or at least until 1.6 of this is done! Pump control is glitchy for some reason. Might be the display, but I think it's the code. Quote Link to comment
Zeadon Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Can you use a DC step down converter to power up the fans instead of using a separate wall plug psu... Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-HRD-Voltage-Converter-24V-36V-48V-Step-Down-TO-12V-3A-Switch-Power-Module-/400487523005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5d3eeaa2bd#ht_1505wt_1241 i like this idea, it would reduce the number of power supplies connected to the wall, if u simple use one PS and have it power this converter aswell as the leds. also another idea, the arduino has a 5v output which is taken up by the TFT shield, but would it not be possible to solder the DS1302 to the same pin for power? so the ds1302 would be in a parallel power circuit with the TFT? 2 Quote Link to comment
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