Mr. Fosi Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 I think it's a sign... You just werent destined to keep the fish you want... Link to comment
bluebastion Posted October 22, 2006 Author Share Posted October 22, 2006 I think it's a sign... You just werent destined to keep the fish you want... I agree, no more BSJ for me. I'll have to figure out a replacement fish for Christmas then.... This will be interesting. Link to comment
henry22 Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 I made the same cover as you, but couldnt find any birdnetting. I just used fiber glass pet netting. The holes are really small, so nothing can jump through, although it cuts the light a little. Sorry about blue, maybe you could try a yellow headed or dusky jawfish. Link to comment
glbtrottr Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 So here's an update... The M22 Glass Nano project has gotten fairly finalized... It's the 150W+2 18WPC light; the Reef Wall took a while to build, but it's all there; the bottom ricordea rock isn't attached. The skimmer is a Tunze Nano Doc 9002 - fits perfect! The sand is black Tahitian Moon... The controller is an AcJr... The side shot shows the closed loop with locline, an Oceans Motions Squirt, ball valve, a Mag 7 pump, and a stealth thermometer along with an Iceprobe...You can also see how fairly narrow the reefwall is, though it is liverock... While Izzue may not agree with 'fuges' in the back of Finnex tanks, here's an attempt...you can also see the Squirt from this angle. I have a topoff for kalk, just haven't installed it yet...give it time. Which also means the original Monster Nano is for sale... I forgot...Monster Nano V1 also has an iceprobe drilled already. Phosban coming on the V2 when ready... Link to comment
Izzue Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Blue Man I think your dog must have helped that fish...you sure hes not lifting the lid? Sry bout the fishee. Ya I understand about the phosban...New tanks tend to have elevated Phos...I used Carbon and Phosban in the rain trays when I original set mine up...rain trays in those systems works really well in the first couple of months, until the media becomes nitrate factory...then you ditch the trays Tks for the pics...I would definitely have to mount something like that on the back of stand. You probable will not be able to detect any phos in a couple of days Just keep it running for a couple of months. Then its the nitrate battle if you have a large bio load. Glbtrottr Nice setup. So how much LR is that and do you have future plans for more LR??? Glad you made a refugium...I never said it would hurt anything...I just didnt have any room left in my sump + I didnt like the idea of ghettoing some kind of light to run reverse photoperoid + not being able to control the flow of refugium. Im stressing the back of my acrylic tank with the CPR fuge hanging but it does have a nice light and valve to slow water volume output for more water to macro contact Hence not as efficient refugium Izzue Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Im stressing the back of my acrylic tank with the CPR fuge hanging but it does have a nice light and valve to slow water volume output for more water to macro contact Hence not as efficient refugium Not sure I get what you are saying here... I was under the impression that you slowed the water down for the benefit of the pods. Increased water flow would probably enhance the nutrient uptake of macro alage by reducing the boundary layer thickness and keeping the CO2 level up... Link to comment
RP Beesh Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 So here's an update... The M22 Glass Nano project has gotten fairly finalized... It's the 150W+2 18WPC light; the Reef Wall took a while to build, but it's all there; the bottom ricordea rock isn't attached. The skimmer is a Tunze Nano Doc 9002 - fits perfect! The sand is black Tahitian Moon... The controller is an AcJr... The side shot shows the closed loop with locline, an Oceans Motions Squirt, ball valve, a Mag 7 pump, and a stealth thermometer along with an Iceprobe...You can also see how fairly narrow the reefwall is, though it is liverock... While Izzue may not agree with 'fuges' in the back of Finnex tanks, here's an attempt...you can also see the Squirt from this angle. I have a topoff for kalk, just haven't installed it yet...give it time. Which also means the original Monster Nano is for sale... I forgot...Monster Nano V1 also has an iceprobe drilled already. Phosban coming on the V2 when ready... nice wall. how did you do it? Link to comment
Izzue Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Not sure I get what you are saying here... I was under the impression that you slowed the water down for the benefit of the pods. Increased water flow would probably enhance the nutrient uptake of macro alage by reducing the boundary layer thickness and keeping the CO2 level up... Sry that is a little confusion...lol The back wall on my m- tank is acrylic and is bowing due to the CPR fuge weight of 2.5 gals. Yes Fosi thats what I meant...CPR fuge is more efficient due to being able to control the flow for better export of nutrients. When you design fuge in back of sump of the Finnex you have no way of controlling the flow and lighting is not as optimal IMO compared to a CPR fuge...oh ya and the pods dont have much peace compared to a CPR fuge. Hope that clears up what I meant Izzue Link to comment
Izzue Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Just re--read the fuge stuff and noticed a wink...lol MY understanding for a fuge to work optimally is to slow the volume of water down so the macro has longer contact with lower amount of water to eat the nitrates...hence return water is cleaner. NOt to mention this helps detris settle in fuge instead of washing right through it. Pods Ive noticed go through cycles of a lot then not a lot. CO2???? My understanding is during photosyn. plants as we all know take in CO2 and give off O2. During night cycle this process stops and water becomes more saturated with CO2 which in turn can affect PH. So running a fuge in the reverse light cycle of tank helps keep this process going to help balance PH. Better??? Izzue Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 MY understanding for a fuge to work optimally is to slow the volume of water down so the macro has longer contact with lower amount of water to eat the nitrates...hence return water is cleaner. This is all theoretcal because I don't actually have any data on this but... Since we are talking about a photosynthtic organism, it is important to remember that it is not eating anything. It gets all it nutrients and gets rid of it's wastes by active, passive, and facilitated diffusion across cell membranes. In aquatic organisms, those types of transport are partially mediated by the thickness of the boundry layer surrounding the cells. Faster flow velocity = thinner boundry layer = quicker, more efficiant transport. NOt to mention this helps detris settle in fuge instead of washing right through it. That is something I hadn't thought of. This would certainly be a benefit to all the amphipods, which are primarily detritovores. CO2???? My understanding is during photosyn. plants as we all know take in CO2 and give off O2. During night cycle this process stops and water becomes more saturated with CO2 which in turn can affect PH. So running a fuge in the reverse light cycle of tank helps keep this process going to help balance PH. You have it right. If the photosynthesizer doesn't have CO2, then they can't fix carbon. If they aren't fixing carbon, they are not growing. If they are not growing, then they are not assimilating N or P or anything else at very fast rate. This is why people inject CO2 into their FW or SW planted tanks. By keeping the water moving, you allow for quicker diffusion of gases in and out of the water. As things photosynthesize, they lower the CO2 concentration which tips the diffusion gradient in favor of CO2 diffusing into the water instead of diffusing out of it. Keeping the water moving helps this process move along at the fastset rate possible. EDIT: However, you have to balance this against other concerns, like settling and pod flushing. Link to comment
bluebastion Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 Long Overdue Update: Tank is maturing well.... and fast... My SPS's are growing like mad! Color has been phenomenal... I must be doing something right. I've been doing water changes with Nutriwater as of late, and dosing B-Ionic everyday... Here's a top down picture I took a week ago (picture taken with flash): I also bought a browned out acro frag at the LFS... "Why?", you ask... It has an Acro Crab! Woot! I got a great deal on it... well at least for a supposed ORA tricolor frag... anyways, here's a picture of it. I'll have to show updated photos as it develops its color back. (if it does) The Acro Crab is the white spot (reflecting too much light to focus well) on top of the base of the left branch. Link to comment
Izzue Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Long Overdue Update: Ya bout time Just joking...nice score with the crab. I was just fixing to set up a 18 gal (glass) prop tank Friday...everything bought and ready to go- got a phone call couple of hours ago...Motherlaw has a friend that wants to scale back on tanks--50 gal with stand free as long as I get it moved by Saturday Got to hide the credit cards from myself...The wife actually took it well since it was free...but I know thats the easy and cheap part. lol Edit: No 50 gal for me...its a fresh water tank...only 12 inchs wide...so I declined the offer Izzue Link to comment
Ocean In A Box Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Just wanted to say this is a great thread. For all contributors, and especially bluebastion's tank. I've been following/subscribed since the beginning but hadn't been back here for awhile--I just read this for about a 1/2 hr and watched that great 5 min video clip too. Again, just great stuff here...hope the updates continue. I've got my 20g glass M (plus four 30g Oceanics) just sitting in the basement waiting to be setup. I'm itching to do it more and more when I see great setups like in this post! Thx, Matt Link to comment
BigByrd Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Hope you guys dont mind but i just joined and found this thread, and i just happen to be setting up a 22g glass finnex as well. I have a couple pics, no livestock yet besides the hitchhikers from the LR. Some asterinas i guess and some small snails. Anyways heres some pics with just lr and live sand... One of the asterinas, or star fish or whatever it is Link to comment
bluebastion Posted December 25, 2006 Author Share Posted December 25, 2006 Another long overdue update.... Some pictures to show SPS growth... and unfortunately, green hair algae... these pics were taken right after I "harvested" some of that unwanted stuff.... The idaho grape probably has the most growth (right side of pics).... these pics were taken only 45 minutes after lights came on.... that explains why the euphyllia hybrid isn't inflated fully yet... 9.23.06 FTS (w/ 3 new Tunze mini-pumps): 12.25.06 Growth update pic Link to comment
Izzue Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 sup BB...just asked Fosi yesterday where the heck are ya Nice progress...glad to see ya back Izzue Link to comment
bluebastion Posted December 29, 2006 Author Share Posted December 29, 2006 I've been lurking around Just been about 110% preoccupied with Gears Of War since it came out..... Sorry... how about I make it up to you with some more eye candy... Some macros of my sps's after feeding oyster eggs... believe it or not... they always have this kind of polyp extension. Loripes and Blue Tort with my lawnmower blenny (who doesn't do a good job of keeping back GHA) Left to right: Tenuis, Chips, Bonsai Rose Millepora revealing new growth everyday. Check out the baby branches jutting from the base of the frag Lastly a macro of my brain with feeder tentacles out. Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Maybe I'm on crack, but I don't see a lot of GHA... Good to see you back. Link to comment
bluebastion Posted December 29, 2006 Author Share Posted December 29, 2006 Oh it's there, and ####### me off... there's a good hint of it on the first picture especially. The blenny is just sitting on that stuff like it's his comfy bed. Phosban seems to have a hard time absorbing the phosphates... I think I'll be going the route of ROWAS soon. PA also has some new stuff on the front page of their product site... I'm curious about that too. For now though I'm plucking it out week by week. Doesn't make sense since I've got my Aqua C Remora on 24/7. I've also cut down on feeding, by alot. I wonder if the B-IONIC has any phosphates in it..... Link to comment
bluebastion Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 Well, started toying with the idea to buy a HOB refugium... and I am going to do just that, it seems... just ordered one of these: http://www.cpraquatic.com/products/aquafuge.html It's the new version with a black plexi wall instead of the first generation clear. I know I'll be running at least chaeto... but I'm probably going to try my hand at a mangrove as well. Also bought some other stuff to play around with..... like frag plugs. At the rate that my sps are growing right now, I'll need to get some tools to propagate. Link to comment
bluebastion Posted January 1, 2007 Author Share Posted January 1, 2007 Just a little shameless plug.... finally got around to selling equipment I haven't been using.... please see this link if you're in the market for a PC light or Skimmer: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry998002 Link to comment
Izzue Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 Sup BB Ive got the 2.5 CPR with no PS on my little system It helps...but I should have gotten biggest that would fit. I had to be concerned with hanging on acrylic...so I used the lightest model. BTW...I like the looks of the CPR light...and has worked well in the 6500 k range Izzue Link to comment
bluebastion Posted January 1, 2007 Author Share Posted January 1, 2007 Sup BBIve got the 2.5 CPR with no PS on my little system It helps...but I should have gotten biggest that would fit. I had to be concerned with hanging on acrylic...so I used the lightest model. BTW...I like the looks of the CPR light...and has worked well in the 6500 k range Izzue Hey Izzue, Yeah, I'm getting the 2.5 version. However it's their "2nd generation" version. Seems like the same thing, but it's got the black plexi background as opposed to a clear one. This is great though, since I will be adding it on the left side of my tank. I've got too many things in the back of the M-tank to move. Unfortunately, I already sold the original M-Tank PC light, and it is shipping tomorrow (already packed and shipping paid for) so sorry about that. Still got the skimmer up for sale though. As a side note: I am working out a trade with 10" Red Devil to swap my 150 MH Aqua Medic Light for his 250 MH Aqua Medic Light... We'll see how that works out, shall we. However this deal works out, I'll be switching out the Phoenix 14k bulb (as both the 150 and the 250 have them) and going to a Reeflux 12k. I'm planning to propagate some of my SPS as they are growing at a pretty fast rate. Link to comment
The_Barbe-Hatten_Project Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 The tank looks great man... i would be careful with the 250watt light, i had some problems with bleaching when i up graded the light on my finnex, i wasn't careful enough in aclimating the corals... i would start with it a good 2 2-1/2 feet above the tank at least! or use several layers of light diffuser... just my .02 Link to comment
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