Kinda's Large Tank Adventure (LTA)

[Kindanewtothis]

2 minutes ago, EC Nano Reef said:

have you tried chemi clean for the cyano ? works great if used correctly  ! this is not the best quality video but check it out

 

 

I did not know about it. Did not know about green cyano either, what I have is red. Is this your tank?

[Kindanewtothis]

23 minutes ago, Ratvan said:

I've never had this problem, Ceriths yes occasionally but not a Conch. As long as you dont have a Halloween hermit and plenty of spare shells I think you will be fine

My halloween is in the 10g with one scarlet.

 

All I have in the 50g is blue legs (that fight each other) and one red legs.

 

I could always take all the hermits and put them in the 10g is it becomes a problem.

[seabass]

3 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I did not know about it.

Another perspective, Chemi-Clean will get rid of cyano, but you might not want that just yet.  It's essentially an antibiotic, killing off competition of dinos.

 

Plus, it doesn't address why you have cyano (excess organics on the sand and rocks).  Sure more flow helps prevent detritus from accumulating, so flow can help.  However, it's the organics which will cause cyano.  Dosing Dino-X probably contributed some to the dead organic matter.

__

 

With you reporting that dinos are still present, it seems like you are trying a hybrid treatment (knocking dinos back, but not completely getting rid of them, then supporting competition).  However, your original plan for treatment was to eradicate dinos, then build up competition so it doesn't return.

[Kindanewtothis]

38 minutes ago, seabass said:

Another perspective, Chemi-Clean will get rid of cyano, but you might want that just yet.  It's essentially an antibiotic, killing off competition of dinos.

 

Plus, it doesn't address why you have cyano (excess organics on the sand and rocks).  Sure more flow helps prevent detritus from accumulating, so flow can help.  However, it's the organics which is cause your cyano.  Dosing Dino-X probably contributed some to the dead organic matter.

__

 

With you reporting that dinos are still present, it seems like you are trying a hybrid treatment (knocking dinos back, but not completely getting rid of them, then supporting competition).  However, your original plan for treatment was to eradicate dinos, then build up competition so it doesn't return.

The plan is still to establish competition so I don't plan to use Chemi-clean, enough chemical in my tank and I still don't know if another dino-x treatment will be required if thing get out of control again.

 

I'll keep on with manual removal for now. When the flow is better we'll see.

[seabass]

5 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

When the flow is better we'll see.

Flow works to help keep wastes in suspension, so your canister filter can remove it.

[EC Nano Reef]

3 hours ago, Kindanewtothis said:

I did not know about it. Did not know about green cyano either, what I have is red. Is this your tank?

yes its my tank a very old video though , yes it will work for the red , however like the ther gent said it is important to find out why you have the cyano first.... mine i have no idea where it came from but once it was gone it never came back . 

[Kindanewtothis]

On 8/25/2021 at 11:59 AM, seabass said:

Dying phyto and other algae are going to release their nutrients.  Organics will likely increase as well.  This might even cause a bigger cyano bloom.

Looks like you were right.

[Jakesaw]

4 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

On 8/25/2021 at 10:59 AM, seabass said:

Dying phyto and other algae are going to release their nutrients.  Organics will likely increase as well.  This might even cause a bigger cyano bloom.

 

As a SW newbie been pretty lazy about Testing and gone back and forth on water changes / filtration trying to find my sweet spot.  Generally been zero phosphate / zero nitrate when I have measured.  Been trying to raise my Nitrates with more feeding and have been doing much less water changes ( weekly to few weeks between any changes ) but going to another fish as well.  

 

My confusion comes from Nitrates vs Dissolved Organics in the water.  Most large reef tanks I have seen have Protein skimmers ( to remove organics is my understanding ) and need to maintain nitrates for corals to grow.  Those 2 concepts seem to work against one another which leads to my confusion.  - Nitrate vs Protein skimmer for clean water???

 

... Any insight on the issue...?

 

FWIW I'm going to start doing weekly tests on Nitrate / Phosphates / alk b/c I've been doing my best not to test as little as possible. and I want to add some more corals and know they will be happy.  

[filefishfinatic]

1 minute ago, Jakesaw said:

As a SW newbie been pretty lazy about Testing and gone back and forth on water changes / filtration trying to find my sweet spot.  Generally been zero phosphate / zero nitrate when I have measured.  Been trying to raise my Nitrates with more feeding and have been doing much less water changes ( weekly to few weeks between any changes ) but going to another fish as well.  

 

My confusion comes from Nitrates vs Dissolved Organics in the water.  Most large reef tanks I have seen have Protein skimmers ( to remove organics is my understanding ) and need to maintain nitrates for corals to grow.  Those 2 concepts seem to work against one another which leads to my confusion.  - Nitrate vs Protein skimmer for clean water???

 

... Any insight on the issue...?

 

FWIW I'm going to start doing weekly tests on Nitrate / Phosphates / alk b/c I've been doing my best not to test as little as possible. and I want to add some more corals and know they will be happy.  

dont feed more. you only need to feed once every other day. you can get more fish to make nitrate and then that grows more algae then the pods eat the algae hence making you need to feed the fishes.

[Kindanewtothis]

3 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

Nitrate vs Protein skimmer for clean water???

 

... Any insight on the issue...?

Idk but from what comes out of the skimmer, I don't think you want this in your tank.

[Jakesaw]

1 minute ago, filefishfinatic said:

dont feed more. you only need to feed once every other day. you can get more fish to make nitrate and then that grows more algae then the pods eat the algae hence making you need to feed the fishes.

I've got 1 fish and 3 crabs and about 10 lbs or Rock and never really had an algae issue.  Was doing daily feedings pretty much what my clown can eat and on advice of LFS have been feeding more ( still only once a day but a bit more messy of a feed session )

[filefishfinatic]

get a blenny and an anenome for your clown. whenever you have uneaten food, throw it into the anenome for food recycling. if your levels still stay good, you could get like a royal gramma and a blue damsel. i think those fish together would work well and you wouldnt have much issue if you feed lightly. 

[Jakesaw]

1 minute ago, Kindanewtothis said:

Idk but from what comes out of the skimmer, I don't think you want this in your tank.

My understanding is it's dissolved proteins ( like sewer water of sorts ) that would over time be broken down into nitrates naturally, 

 

But I'm not sure my understanding is correct

[Jakesaw]

2 minutes ago, filefishfinatic said:

get a blenny and an anenome for your clown. whenever you have uneaten food, throw it into the anenome for food recycling. if your levels still stay good, you could get like a royal gramma and a blue damsel. i think those fish together would work well and you wouldnt have much issue if you feed lightly. 

I tried a RG.  He looked happy and healthy for under 2 weeks but freaked out when I added coral frags near his home never found a spot to call his home.  Slowed his eating and was stuck to a powerhead 3 days later. 

 

Sad - I really liked him

[filefishfinatic]

1 minute ago, Jakesaw said:

I tried a RG.  He looked happy and healthy for under 2 weeks but freaked out when I added coral frags near his home never found a spot to call his home.  Slowed his eating and was stuck to a powerhead 3 days later. 

 

Sad - I really liked him

=how big is ur tank, how much flow. possibly get a bigger hob, throw out the powerhead, and cover the intake in rocks. 

[seabass]

1 minute ago, Jakesaw said:

My confusion comes from Nitrates vs Dissolved Organics in the water.  Most large reef tanks I have seen have Protein skimmers ( to remove organics is my understanding ) and need to maintain nitrates for corals to grow.  Those 2 concepts seem to work against one another which leads to my confusion.  - Nitrate vs Protein skimmer for clean water???

 

... Any insight on the issue...?

OK, so there are dead organics (plant or animal matter) which will get broken down, and ultimately releasing their inorganic nutrients.  This organic matter (like compost in a garden) can promote algae and even cyano.

 

Dissolved organics is much smaller matter (even proteins) in your water column.  They too can break down into inorganic nutrients.  But I feel that it's the organics which causes cyano (and potentially other issues).  Obviously, a protein skimmer removes these proteins and dissolved wastes.  Activated carbon performs a similar function.

 

Inorganic nutrients are what our test kits measure (phosphate and nitrate).  Photosynthetic life (such as corals, anemones, algae, and seagrasses) utilize these nutrients to create energy.  Without them, this life will suffer.

 

[Jakesaw]

1 minute ago, filefishfinatic said:

=how big is ur tank, how much flow. possibly get a bigger hob, throw out the powerhead, and cover the intake in rocks. 

Tank is only 10 gal, but have a 20 gal ready to move into.  Dino has kept the move from happening by now + I have Planted Shrimp tank I'd need to move.  

[Clown79]

11 minutes ago, Jakesaw said:

As a SW newbie been pretty lazy about Testing and gone back and forth on water changes / filtration trying to find my sweet spot.  Generally been zero phosphate / zero nitrate when I have measured.  Been trying to raise my Nitrates with more feeding and have been doing much less water changes ( weekly to few weeks between any changes ) but going to another fish as well.  

 

My confusion comes from Nitrates vs Dissolved Organics in the water.  Most large reef tanks I have seen have Protein skimmers ( to remove organics is my understanding ) and need to maintain nitrates for corals to grow.  Those 2 concepts seem to work against one another which leads to my confusion.  - Nitrate vs Protein skimmer for clean water???

 

... Any insight on the issue...?

 

FWIW I'm going to start doing weekly tests on Nitrate / Phosphates / alk b/c I've been doing my best not to test as little as possible. and I want to add some more corals and know they will be happy.  

Some ppl's tanks for some reason have issues with maintaining nutrirnt levels.

 

All my tanks were that way.

 

I had 4 fish in my 25g(you should not add more fish to increase nutrients if the tank is fully stocked)

 

I increased feedings to twice a day

 

I reduced the frequency and size of waterchanges

 

I couldn't get my nitrates above 5 and my phos was still very low to 0.

 

The only way i did increase nutrients is by dosing nitrates and dosing phyto. 

 

Adding fish or starving your fish for increasing/decreasing nutrients is not always the best option.

 

 

[Tired]

1 hour ago, filefishfinatic said:

dont feed more. you only need to feed once every other day. you can get more fish to make nitrate and then that grows more algae then the pods eat the algae hence making you need to feed the fishes.

Reef fish should be fed daily, if not multiple times daily. In the wild, they eat almost constantly, and not feeding them frequently enough disregards that. If a tank will benefit from more fish waste being released, the solution is to feed the fish a proper amount and amount of times, not to buy more fish and underfeed them all. 

 

1 hour ago, filefishfinatic said:

get a blenny and an anenome for your clown. whenever you have uneaten food, throw it into the anenome for food recycling. if your levels still stay good, you could get like a royal gramma and a blue damsel. i think those fish together would work well and you wouldnt have much issue if you feed lightly. 

Someone who has a new, unstable tank, with dinos no less, should not be purchasing an anemone. (Plus, OP already has one, if it's still alive.) And fish shouldn't be "fed lightly", they should be fed as much as they need. Nobody should be underfeeding their fish in order to buy more fish. 

[Kindanewtothis]

3 minutes ago, Tired said:

Plus, OP already has one, if it's still alive

They are not talking about my tank anymore.

 

In my case, anemone is still alive.

[PeterU]

3 minutes ago, Kindanewtothis said:

They are not talking about my tank anymore.

You're probably right. And you know not to follow advice from filefishfinatic if they were 🙂.

[filefishfinatic]

11 minutes ago, Tired said:

Reef fish should be fed daily, if not multiple times daily. In the wild, they eat almost constantly, and not feeding them frequently enough disregards that. If a tank will benefit from more fish waste being released, the solution is to feed the fish a proper amount and amount of times, not to buy more fish and underfeed them all. 

 

Someone who has a new, unstable tank, with dinos no less, should not be purchasing an anemone. (Plus, OP already has one, if it's still alive.) And fish shouldn't be "fed lightly", they should be fed as much as they need. Nobody should be underfeeding their fish in order to buy more fish. 

i dont have dinos lmao i erradicated them like 2 months ago.  the fish should be fed lightly because they only need a little bit of food. if you were feeding them constantly w/ phyto, it would bedifferent. you should have a large population of microfauna in your aquarium. if a fish is eating almost constantly, it is probably zooplanktivorus or its a fish like a dragonet and it would subsist between feedings with just microfauna or algae. i do this in my reef tank with sucsess. have you actually tried this before? when i got more fish, i noticed i had lots more pods in my tank. thus i proved my theory. it stabilized itself in a few weeks becasue the fish was an agressive pod eater (clarkii clown)

[filefishfinatic]

16 minutes ago, Tired said:

Reef fish should be fed daily, if not multiple times daily. In the wild, they eat almost constantly, and not feeding them frequently enough disregards that. If a tank will benefit from more fish waste being released, the solution is to feed the fish a proper amount and amount of times, not to buy more fish and underfeed them all. 

 

Someone who has a new, unstable tank, with dinos no less, should not be purchasing an anemone. (Plus, OP already has one, if it's still alive.) And fish shouldn't be "fed lightly", they should be fed as much as they need. Nobody should be underfeeding their fish in order to buy more fish. 

i dont have dinos lmao i erradicated them like 2 months ago.  the fish should be fed lightly because they only need a little bit of food. if you were feeding them constantly w/ phyto, it would bedifferent. you should have a large population of microfauna in your aquarium. if a fish is eating almost constantly, it is probably zooplanktivorus or its a fish like a dragonet and it would subsist between feedings with just microfauna or algae. i do this in my reef tank with sucsess. have you actually tried this before? when i got more fish, i noticed i had lots more pods in my tank. thus i proved my theory. it stabilized itself in a few weeks becasue the fish was an agressive pod eater (clarkii clown). think about it this way, a shark eats ssardines. shark poops. poop turns to nitrate, nitrate feeds phytoplankton, sardines eat phyto. more sardines= more food for shark then shark reproduces then more shark, more poop, more phyto, more sardines.

[Clown79]

1 hour ago, filefishfinatic said:

i dont have dinos lmao i erradicated them like 2 months ago.  the fish should be fed lightly because they only need a little bit of food. if you were feeding them constantly w/ phyto, it would bedifferent. you should have a large population of microfauna in your aquarium. if a fish is eating almost constantly, it is probably zooplanktivorus or its a fish like a dragonet and it would subsist between feedings with just microfauna or algae. i do this in my reef tank with sucsess. have you actually tried this before? when i got more fish, i noticed i had lots more pods in my tank. thus i proved my theory. it stabilized itself in a few weeks becasue the fish was an agressive pod eater (clarkii clown). think about it this way, a shark eats ssardines. shark poops. poop turns to nitrate, nitrate feeds phytoplankton, sardines eat phyto. more sardines= more food for shark then shark reproduces then more shark, more poop, more phyto, more sardines.

This thread is someones journal for their tanks. 

 

please don't start and fill up their thread with conversations that lead to disagreements with other members as your methods and comments tend to cause heated conversations and thats not fair to the OP. 

 

FYI, most of us feed our fish daily or multiple times a day. 

[rough eye]

i don't see why you should pick on filefishinatic. just because his filefish died after 8 hours, was wild caught and apparently ate brine shrimp. he should get many more.