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Harry's "Hyper" JBJ RL-45: TAKEN DOWN


HarryPotter

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HarryPotter

Silly nem

Silly nem in a silly reefer's tank; so fitting :wub:

 

Its totally fine- looks great and puffy. Pretty sure its attached to some rubble I have in the box, so thats good. Next week it'll be going to my uncle

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That is unreal that the little nem climbed over the side to get out! The picture is unreal as well. Not chopped up. Just...like...."a little help anyone"!!??? Your tank is great by the way!

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HarryPotter

That is unreal that the little nem climbed over the side to get out! The picture is unreal as well. Not chopped up. Just...like...."a little help anyone"!!??? Your tank is great by the way!

 

Yeah Im so grateful that it didn't reach the propellor... Because smashed Anemones are very dangerous to the tank (Not to mention sad to lose one).

 

Thanks!

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HarryPotter

CYANO.

 

Over the last 12 hours I've developed some cyano. I dealt with it in the NanoCube, so am not overly worried.

Plan is to siphon it daily, while reducing feeding- although I think this issue is an effect of having an instant cycle.

 

Meanwhile, Glenn sent me awesome stuff. Rainbow Yumas and two Zoa colonies!

 

Yumas63713F76-707E-4F29-AFA9-CF8B21A153B1_zps

 

Cyano

5BCE00E1-04B4-47F3-8A12-7A2326E76571_zps

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I can not believe that nem climbed out and then decided it was a good idea to jump into an MP10. With all the freedom he should have done something else!

 

Glad he is ok!

 

Sucks about the cyano, but having a plan is always good!

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HarryPotter

I can not believe that nem climbed out and then decided it was a good idea to jump into an MP10. With all the freedom he should have done something else!

 

Glad he is ok!

 

Sucks about the cyano, but having a plan is always good!

Maybe he was disappointed with the tank and decided that suicide was the only way out?

 

Thanks- hopefully it's gone within a week

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CYANO.

 

 

 

Meanwhile, Glenn sent me awesome stuff. Rainbow Yumas and two Zoa colonies!

 

 

Deal with that shit before your tank looks like Begows. Get some chemiclean and follow the instructions. Check you TDS level if its above .010 change your DI resin.

 

Glenn is awesome to deal with :)

since you like vids

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HarryPotter

Deal with that shit before your tank looks like Begows. Get some chemiclean and follow the instructions. Check you TDS level if its above .010 change your DI resin.

 

Glenn is awesome to deal with :)

since you like vids

LOL I already did Chemiclean! Exactly 4 mini spoons for 45 gallons. I siphoned most and then did the dose. I have water ready for in the 48 hour 20% water change :)

 

I'm not one of those "natural only" people. If a product is proven to work with no dangerous aspects, HELL YEAH

 

I still use LFS RODI, but have the option of using home made RO (new filters) as well. Which is better

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LOL I already did Chemiclean! Exactly 4 mini spoons for 45 gallons. I siphoned most and then did the dose. I have water ready for in the 48 hour 20% water change :)

 

I still use LFS RODI, but have the option of using home made RO (new filters) as well. Which is better

Order another canister, some check valves and a 3 way tee from Ebay, Amazon, Marine Depot, BRS It really doesnt matter. Fill it with di resin add it to the home ro system. You can use check valves so that your ro water can still be drinking water and your DI water is separate. You can probably add this to your home ro unit for under $100. As you really dont want to drink RODI water. If you go this route order a in line TDS meter so that you can monitor you TDS levels. Marine Depot has a one that measures 3 values. Input, RO, and DI. This is important because when the levels get out of whack you will know when its time to change your media and RO membrane. Your a smart kid check out this link. It has instructions on how to set up a drinking water + DI water. These guys are reefers and helped me set up mine even though I did not buy my system from them. Not hating on the LFS but do they check the TDS every time you buy water from them?

http://www.buckeyehydro.com/content/5_Stage_Reef_Residential_RODI.pdf

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HarryPotter

Order another canister, some check valves and a 3 way tee from Ebay, Amazon, Marine Depot, BRS It really doesnt matter. Fill it with di resin add it to the home ro system. You can use check valves so that your ro water can still be drinking water and your DI water is separate. You can probably add this to your home ro unit for under $100. As you really dont want to drink RODI water. If you go this route order a in line TDS meter so that you can monitor you TDS levels. Marine Depot has a one that measures 3 values. Input, RO, and DI. This is important because when the levels get out of whack you will know when its time to change your media and RO membrane. Your a smart kid check out this link. It has instructions on how to set up a drinking water + DI water. These guys are reefers and helped me set up mine even though I did not buy my system from them. Not hating on the LFS but do they check the TDS every time you buy water from them?

http://www.buckeyehydro.com/content/5_Stage_Reef_Residential_RODI.pdf

 

This is canister with DI resin included

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single-deionization-canister.html

 

Ball Valve

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ro-inline-ball-valve-push-connect.html

 

And an inline valve that will split the drinking supply water into the extra RO membrane

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ro-inline-ball-valve-push-connect.html

So:

 

RO-->3 WAY T--> SINK

|

v

Check Valve

|

v

DI Canister

|

v

Ball Valve

|

v

Bucket

 

 

 

Would the check valve be neccesary? I don't think there could be back flow anyway. Only potential issue I see would be if the ball valve leaks, because it would constantly be under pressure. Is that possible?

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I have a pressure tank on mine and and a mineral stage for taste. I wanted to isolate the drinking from the DI stage with out the check valves I would get back flow from the DI canister.

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HarryPotter

I have a pressure tank on mine and and a mineral stage for taste. I wanted to isolate the drinking from the DI stage with out the check valves I would get back flow from the DI canister.

 

I also have a pressure tank and mineral stage. So this would be after the pressure tank but before the mineral stage I guess

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I also have a pressure tank and mineral stage. So this would be after the pressure tank but before the mineral stage I guesNOP

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actually no. my bad you want the t before the pressure tank with the check valve you want low pressure going to the di media.

tds input ro--tds #1---T--- >check valve--pressure tank---- mineral stage-----sink

I

V

check valve

I

I

DI

I

tds #2

ball valve

I

bucket

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HarryPotter

actually no. my bad you want the t before the pressure tank with the check valve you want low pressure going to the di media.

tds input ro--tds #1---T--- >check valve--pressure tank---- mineral stage-----sink

I

V

check valve

I

I

DI

I

tds #2

ball valve

I

bucket

 

Oh I didn't know that about the pressure and DI media.

 

Are the inline TDS meters necessary? My budget is not that high, and buying a single one off eBay to test the water post DI might be something to consider.

 

Im only using 10g a week RO, maybe 5. Not sure if I should just test LFS water or bite the bullet and get a DI

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Oh I didn't know that about the pressure and DI media.

 

Are the inline TDS meters necessary? My budget is not that high, and buying a single one off eBay to test the water post DI might be something to consider.

 

Im only using 10g a week RO, maybe 5. Not sure if I should just test LFS water or bite the bullet and get a DI

No not necessary. But would recommend it. You can determine with accuracy when its time to change your resin and ro membrane. $35 for canister, $29 for inline dual TDS or $40 for the triple TDS meter $10 of $15 for the T and a couple check valves. Like I said under $100.

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HarryPotter

No not necessary. But would recommend it. You can determine with accuracy when its time to change your resin and ro membrane. $35 for canister, $29 for inline dual TDS or $40 for the triple TDS meter $10 of $15 for the T and a couple check valves. Like I said under $100.

 

Thanks for the instructions! I am going to start with getting a simple handheld TDS meter to make sure its not my LFS causing my issues.

 

If I am going to be spending $100 on parts for the DI system, I may as well buy the Spectrapure 90GPH Refurbished RODI unit. Its only $125 and has great reviews. This way I could put it in my bathroom sink rather than the Kitchen as well!

 

The Cyano did come as a complete surprise though. Zero GHA or other algaes, and I am running a pretty normal nutrient system.

 

I havnt tested Phosphate or Nitrate in a while, so maybe ill do that tomorrow to see where I'm at.

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HarryPotter

The plan for tomorrow:

 

  1. Buy 10g Salt Water and 5g RODI at the LFS
  2. Siphon out all remaining Cyano and backfill with saltwater
  3. Troubleshoot the Jebao Doser- why the heck is it still leaking?!
  4. Attempt to catch the cleaner shrimp, because its harassing the recovering Squamosa

Also, im not happy with the current coral layout and scape. The right side just seems to be messy with Zoas, RFA, Duncan, etc so close together. I can't really move the RFA, but the others might be taking a trip to the frag rack until I get some inspiration

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Thanks for the instructions! I am going to start with getting a simple handheld TDS meter to make sure its not my LFS causing my issues.

 

If I am going to be spending $100 on parts for the DI system, I may as well buy the Spectrapure 90GPH Refurbished RODI unit. Its only $125 and has great reviews. This way I could put it in my bathroom sink rather than the Kitchen as well!

 

The Cyano did come as a complete surprise though. Zero GHA or other algaes, and I am running a pretty normal nutrient system.

 

I havnt tested Phosphate or Nitrate in a while, so maybe ill do that tomorrow to see where I'm at.

This wont be popular here but ro/di systems are pretty much the same. No reason to spend the cash on Spectrapure......oh I forgot you bought into the Ecotech crap. Spend away! :lol: Spectrapure is probably a good bet for replacement media but since you already have a ro unit just get an additional canister and the plumbing parts to make it work.

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HarryPotter

This wont be popular here but ro/di systems are pretty much the same. No reason to spend the cash on Spectrapure......oh I forgot you bought into the Echotech crap. Spend away! :lol: Spectrapure is probably a good bet for replacement media but since you already have a ro unit just get an additional canister and the plumbing parts to make it work.

I thought we estimated that adding a DI would be $100, plus whatever I screw up. Id rather pay $25 more to have it close by the tank and all together,

And I bought the Radion "Broken" for the price of an AI Prime, so HA. :P

 

Fixed the PSU with some basic soldering, got a new micro USB female installed, and its sexy ;)

I love my spectrapure setup and filters

 

Yep thats hopefully my next purchase. I need to start mixing my own salt water and making my own RO, going to the LFS for their water (Of unknown quality) weekly is a PITA

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i said under $100 if you looked on a local forum or Craigslist you could do it for less then $25 just trying to give you some advice based on experience. But you can join the Spectrapure, Ecotech, and what ever is the most expensive fanboys club and over pay for crap. Seriously someone tell me why some plastic containers made in China with a sticker that says Spectrapure makes it better. Yes they sell better media but the actual units are rebranded China made and are really no better or worse than units selling for 1/2 the price..

angry-old-man-smiley-emoticon.gif

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The plan for tomorrow:

 

  1. Buy 10g Salt Water and 5g RODI at the LFS
  2. Siphon out all remaining Cyano and backfill with saltwater
  3. Troubleshoot the Jebao Doser- why the heck is it still leaking?!
  4. Attempt to catch the cleaner shrimp, because its harassing the recovering Squamosa
  5. Buy jacks Bubble Magus Dosing Pump - He must be crazy for selling it at such a low price!

Also, im not happy with the current coral layout and scape. The right side just seems to be messy with Zoas, RFA, Duncan, etc so close together. I can't really move the RFA, but the others might be taking a trip to the frag rack until I get some inspiration

 

I definitely approve of number 5, Harold.

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