Shadow's 16G Disaster. Fumigation Poisoned the Tank and Crashed It.

[Chew_Magna]

Goniopora has a well established history of being very difficult to keep long term. They say that most don't last a year in tanks, more often than not they only last a couple months. If it gets damaged or if one part of it gets "sick" then it'll rapidly go downhill.

[GlassHouse]

Goniopora has a well established history of being very difficult to keep long term. They say that most don't last a year in tanks, more often than not they only last a couple months. If it gets damaged or if one part of it gets "sick" then it'll rapidly go downhill.

From an article written in 2008: "I can now tell customers that it is possible to keep Goniopora alive, as long as you provide the proper care and feeding for the species in question." http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/nftt/index.php.

 

Plenty of information at the link on what type of feeding and systems are good for this coral and what to avoid (like cleaner shrimp).

 

Whoever says this coral can't live a year in our tanks is simply wrong. t would be better not to repeat bad information as though it was fact.

[FrontMan]

 

Goniopora has a well established history of being very difficult to keep long term. They say that most don't last a year in tanks, more often than not they only last a couple months. If it gets damaged or if one part of it gets "sick" then it'll rapidly go downhill.

Label this under really old wives tales. Perhaps you should spend less time typing, more time reading.

[Chew_Magna]

From an article written in 2008: "I can now tell customers that it is possible to keep Goniopora alive, as long as you provide the proper care and feeding for the species in question." http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/nftt/index.php. Plenty of information at the link on what type of feeding and systems are good for this coral and what to avoid (like cleaner shrimp). Whoever says this coral can't live a year in our tanks is simply wrong. t would be better not to repeat bad information as though it was fact.

I'm not giving false information. It is true that most Goniopora don't live long in tanks. Not an opinion, it's a fact. Sure there are people who have kept it long term, those are the people who did the proper research on how to care from them (or just got lucky). Most specimens don't last long because there are different species that are clumped together without the understanding that different Goniopora sp. require different care.

[GlassHouse]

I'm not giving false information. It is true that most Goniopora don't live long in tanks. Not an opinion, it's a fact. Sure there are people who have kept it long term, those are the people who did the proper research on how to care from them (or just got lucky). Most specimens don't last long because there are different species that are clumped together without the understanding that different Goniopora sp. require different care.

 

It looks like the OP has a shrimp and hemrit crabs. If you bothered to read the article, you'll see that those are two of the major culprits the author cites with problems with goniopora.

 

Your original statement was that "Goniopora has a well established history of being very difficult to keep long term". You were the one that lumped them all together and said they were all difficult to keep, not me. Now you're claiming that different species have different care requirements, instead of your previous false blanket statement. And yes, it was false information, no matter how much you try to spin it otherwise.

[Snow_Phoenix]

Guys, chill.

 

The Goni is doing slightly better today. I kept it isolated in a backup tank, placed an airstone and gave it plenty of light. It slowly came back to life, and the polyps are extending slowly as we speak. I did see a hermit crab 'resting' on the Goni last morning. It didn't pick at it, but it clearly irritated the coral.

 

I do have a white spotted nem shrimp that hosts both my Goni colonies. Worse come to worse, I'll keep the injured Goni isolated for another few days or a week or two, and then slowly reintroduce it back into the tank. If my hermit decides to perch on it again, I'll sump the crab.

[Chew_Magna]

It looks like the OP has a shrimp and hemrit crabs. If you bothered to read the article, you'll see that those are two of the major culprits the author cites with problems with goniopora.

 

Your original statement was that "Goniopora has a well established history of being very difficult to keep long term". You were the one that lumped them all together and said they were all difficult to keep, not me. Now you're claiming that different species have different care requirements, instead of your previous false blanket statement. And yes, it was false information, no matter how much you try to spin it otherwise.

 

Your little article has a 404 not found error Sparky. Both statements I said are true. It is possible to make a general lay statement and then a contradictory specific statement and still speak the truth in both.

 

Shadow just search "Goniopora" and read for yourself. I'd link it but I have a feeling if I do I'll just be yelled at saying I'm posting false information.

[Snow_Phoenix]

Your little article has a 404 not found error Sparky. Both statements I said are true. It is possible to make a general lay statement and then a contradictory specific statement and still speak the truth in both.

 

Shadow just search "Goniopora" and read for yourself. I'd link it but I have a feeling if I do I'll just be yelled at saying I'm posting false information.

 

Am reading now, Chew. And thanks for all your help.

[FrontMan]

 

Your little article has a 404 not found error Sparky. Both statements I said are true. It is possible to make a general lay statement and then a contradictory specific statement and still speak the truth in both.

 

Shadow just search "Goniopora" and read for yourself. I'd link it but I have a feeling if I do I'll just be yelled at saying I'm posting false information.

Link works for me and it pretty much says exactly the opposite of everything you've claimed.

[Snow_Phoenix]

Good news! My Goni made a comeback today morning!

 

It's fully open, all polyps are extended and I'm thinking of picking up some fish roe, Reef Snow or Reef Roids later for it to eat. I heard Oyster Feast works wonders too.

 

The only thing that I did was isolate the coral in a backup tank, run the lights full blast overnight (LED) and place an airstone in the tank. I then slowly did a 10% waterchange in the major DT and put the coral back in. After sulking for 12 hours, it slowly extended its polyps and now is back to its flowery old self.

[Chew_Magna]

Yay!

 

Gonna hit you with a wall of text.

 

Feeding your Goniopora

In just the past two years we have seen the introduction into the hobby of several very exciting new small-particle-sized foods with good nutrient profiles. These include Cyclop-eeze, Hikari Frozen Rotifers, and DT's Oyster Eggs. The design of plankton-friendly systems, proper coral husbandry in terms of water conditions, and the direct feeding of these quality foods will help insure long term success.

Even if you cannot positively identify the species of Goniopora in your care, you can figure out what it may eat. When trying foods, it is important to note the difference between a stress reaction and a feeding reaction. If you target-feed with a syringe and are too forceful with the flow, the coral will quickly retract its polyps in defense. A polyp retraction in response to stress is quick and fluid, and often spreads across the whole colony. However, polyp retraction for feeding is slower and jerky. Some polyps will bend toward the food, retracting one side of the polyp in rhythmic pulses. The polyp will then sit there with its mouth on the food and eventually fully retract. There is often active pronounced tentacle curling as they capture food particles. Goniopora burgosi has the most active tentacle curling of all the Goniopora at Fin and Feather.

 

I did not directly feed my Goniopora for over two years--but as soon as I began direct feedings, I noticed an increase in the speed of growth. I now feed all my Goniopora generously with a variety of the foods they have shown feeding reactions too.

At Fin and Feather, I have used a variety of foods for my Goniopora. I have determined what kinds of food someGoniopora have shown a definite feeding reaction to. This list of foods is growing and is not exclusive. There are many foods out there waiting to be tried, and many more to be developed.

 

Many people have supplemented by feeding with phytoplankton. In my studies of Goniopora, only one variety showed a feeding reaction to phytoplankton alone. However, many kinds of zooplankton eat phytoplankton, which are in turn eaten by the Goniopora.

In the profile list that follows you will see food mix and light food mix. A goopy food mix I use for larger-polypedGoniopora is 1 part crushed brine shrimp cube to 2 parts crushed Cyclop-eeze flake,1-2 parts frozen rotifers, and 5-6 parts phytoplankton/ Cyclop-eeze juice/ DT's oyster eggs. Light food mix has twice as much liquid food for a lighter consistency, a better food for smaller-polyped species, but also accepted by larger-polyped species.

 

When feeding your Goniopora, you will quickly find many other aquarium inhabitants find the food mighty tasty too. You may have to beat back an onslaught of fish and invertebrate food raids. Nassarius snails will be there in seconds. Fish and serpent stars may gleefully steal your Goniopora's food. Shrimp will take the food and some of your Goniopora too, ripping right through the tissue, causing much damage at times. Some people have built feeding traps-high-tech devices such as one- and two-liter bottles placed over the coral so it may be fed in peace.

 

In my opinion, smaller-sized food particles are better than larger ones. I will be conducting a thorough food study to determine which foods are more conducive to growth. Until then, I can only tell you what I have observed. During the six-week period when I fed DT's Oyster eggs exclusively to all my Goniopora in three different systems, I noticed faster encrusting growth and longer polyp extension.

Until we get some definitive data, I would suggest using foods with a good nutrient profile and smaller particle size. The systems that people have successfully kept Goniopora in can produce much plankton, eggs, and larvae. These prey items can be quite small. A Goniopora stokesi can ingest a full grown brine shrimp, but is that the best for them?

 

Several new foods are in pre-market production and may prove to be very beneficial to the aquaculture ofGoniopora, and other still difficult- or impossible-to-maintain corals and invertebrates. I have had many opportunities to try some unusual potential foods. I had newly imported urchins spawn, so I grabbed a syringe, sucked up the eggs, and fed away. All the Goniopora I fed them to showed feeding reactions, some stronger than others. Peppermint shrimp eggs were taken by many kinds of Goniopora, as was Striped Bass Blood. Cleaner shrimp eggs and emerald crab eggs were only ingested by some. Dead cleaner shrimp eggs were not ingested at all.

This difference in feeding reactions shows some potential new foods are more suited for growing Goniopora. I believe invertebrate eggs and larvae would be excellent foods for development in the hobby. Many have great nutrient profiles, and some, such as urchin eggs, are ingested by many corals.

 

I believe the availability of proper food is the main factor in many Goniopora successes. Whether it's the higher amount of dissolved organics, higher plankton levels in systems with refugiums, and little or no skimming or direct feeding, with forethought in system design and husbandry techniques we can be successful with many species of Goniopora.

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/10/aafeature2

[Snow_Phoenix]

Yay!

 

Gonna hit you with a wall of text.

 

 

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/10/aafeature2

 

Thanks for that amazing read, Chew!

[Snow_Phoenix]

Just had an emergency minor surgery. One of my abscesses near my right thigh ruptured, and the doctor had to lance it and drain it ( I was screaming the whole time, because it hurt like hell even though local anaesthetic was used ), Won't be able to walk properly for about a week, and I have my finals coming up.

 

On top of all that, my dad will be temporarily attending to the tank. (mainly cleaning the glass and feeding the fish).

 

I am thinking of investing in an analog timer for my lights. Am due to go on vacation in three weeks time, and I think leaving the lights on 24/7 for five days straight will be detrimental to the tank. What do you guys think?

[Chew_Magna]

Definitely get a timer. I wouldn't even consider running a reef tank without some sort of timer on the lights. You can pick up a cheap one at Walmart for like $3.50. I use 3 on my tank.

[Sunar357]

Sorry to hear about the surgery.

 

Timer for sure! I don't think she has a Wal-Mart there but still probably cheaper also. LOL

[Snow_Phoenix]

Definitely get a timer. I wouldn't even consider running a reef tank without some sort of timer on the lights. You can pick up a cheap one at Walmart for like $3.50. I use 3 on my tank.

 

 

Sorry to hear about the surgery.

 

Timer for sure! I don't think she has a Wal-Mart there but still probably cheaper also. LOL

 

I don't have a Walmart as Sunar said, but I do have equivalent budget outlets. A reefer friend mentioned the timer and its importance - thank goodness. I'll probably pick one up tomorrow or the day after. Thinking of getting some Selcon and Reef Snow as well.

[Chew_Magna]

Where do you live that doesn't have Walmart? Even when I was travelling overseas they were everywhere (even in malls which kinda freaked me out).

[Angel<3Nanos]

Don't buy cheap timers. They aren't very reliable.

Digital timers are alot better. Imo.

 

[Chew_Magna]

Mine are still rock solid after a year's use. Three different models, all working just fine.

[Snow_Phoenix]

Where do you live that doesn't have Walmart? Even when I was travelling overseas they were everywhere (even in malls which kinda freaked me out).

 

Lol, I'm located in the southern part of Msia. Have never seen a Walmart yet in the country.

 

Don't buy cheap timers. They aren't very reliable. Digital timers are alot better. Imo.

 

I think analog ones are also good, but I'll double check anyways. Thanks for the input, Angel!

[Chew_Magna]

Ah I'm assuming that's supposed to be Asia?

[Snow_Phoenix]

Ah I'm assuming that's supposed to be Asia?

 

Bingo.

[FlowerMama]

I use the basic cheapo that was $5 at Lowes for my Evolve 8 and it works wonderfully. Goes on at 3, turns off at 11. It doesn't have to do more than that. Sorry to hear you had an issue, anything that hurts and takes you out of your routine really does make you feel out of sync.

[Snow_Phoenix]

I use the basic cheapo that was $5 at Lowes for my Evolve 8 and it works wonderfully. Goes on at 3, turns off at 11. It doesn't have to do more than that. Sorry to hear you had an issue, anything that hurts and takes you out of your routine really does make you feel out of sync.

 

Good thing we still have cheap hardware stores lying around though. I'll definitely pick up a timer. In the meantime, I just got word from my mum that my car (which my dad was driving to work) was involved in a nasty accident. Mercifully my father is okay, but the four idiots that hit my car from the back are trying to haggle my dad over the costs. I'm honestly in pain, and now severely pissed as well. If I could hobble over to the auto-repair shop, I totally would.

 

As for my tanks, both tanks are doing great. Current livestock in this tank:

 

1 Yellowtail Damsel (Ocean)

2 Juvi Occy Clowns (Zeus and Athena)

1 Yellow Clown Goby (Cosmo)

1 Sixline Wrasse (Benny)

1 Green Brittle Star ( Sir Raj)

1 Saron Shrimp (Lord Sauron)

1 White Spotted Anemone Shrimp (Arra)

1 Blood Fire Shrimp (Winston)

1 Blue Legged Hermit Crab

3 Dwarf Hermits

1 White Dwarf Hermit

1 Deep Red Linkia Starfish

2 Zebra Turbo Snails

8 Nerite Snails

4 Nassarius Snails

4 Fancy Nassarius Snails

 

1 Chocolate Chip Star (Nim *sump)

1 Daum's Reef Lobster (Speckles *sump)

 

I'd say I'm overstocked as it is, so I'm only going to be adding coral from now on.

[Tamberav]

I love the more aggressive fish you chose

 

Sorry about the car and the hobbling