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Beware the Shallows


jedimasterben

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Yes, I got it, and I finally figured out why I was getting random hard locks with the system - I guess over the years I've pushed a liiiittle too much voltage through the CPU and the memory controller is a bit flaky when all four RAM slots are populated. Have four of them in - system hard locks every once in a while and Memtest86+ just stops running. Take two out, and I have no more instability and Memtest will run as long as I let it. I figure eh, it's good enough for right now, I'll just grab some blue 8GB sticks and still have 16GB total, plus the red color on the current RAM clashes :)

 

Also - the stock clocks on the new GPU are 889MHz/941MHz boost, and 1032MHz in-game. Bumping the voltage up to 1.200v on the core, I got it to go to 1241MHz boost, and 1346MHz in-game. :)

 

With both of my old 6970 overclocked to 1GHz on the core, the Unigine Heaven benchmark gave me 609 points. The stock 780 gave me 847, and overclocked it gave me 1018. I know it usually leans a bit more towards the nvidia architecture, but damn!

I had a similar situation a few years ago. Rock solid OC for 2 years on water, all of a sudden wouldn't hold OC and started to blue screen every day. a week later the PWMs blew and took my RAM with it as well. Glad you got teh card sorted, sorry about the RAM issues though. I have found them to be one of the most tedious things to troubleshoot, so many variables.

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jedimasterben

The KPA 'cured' rock. Very little life on it besides hair algae and the halimeda and coral on these two rocks. No copepods, no amphipods, no worms.

 

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Mine has colored up a bit and I got a eunice worm sort of thing crawling around but mine looked virtually the same as yours.

 

Next time I'll do uncured like I wanted or just order uncured/cured from GulfLiveRock. I was much happier with the GLR stuff. I have sponges and tunicates as well as some hh coral and some odd macro.

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Nanofreak79

Cool rock Jedi. Have you thought about making two drains and drilling a return or using a j tube return. Might help switching to a full herbie style?

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That rock is kinda fugly... :(

 

Let me get a sandwich baggy of reef critters to send to you. I got some sponges, mini brittles, worms, snails, and whatnot. How many pods you want?

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jedimasterben

Mine has colored up a bit and I got a eunice worm sort of thing crawling around but mine looked virtually the same as yours.

 

Next time I'll do uncured like I wanted or just order uncured/cured from GulfLiveRock. I was much happier with the GLR stuff. I have sponges and tunicates as well as some hh coral and some odd macro.

I still kick myself for caving and settling for the cured rock, though it was pretty cool to get to talk with Phillip. I'm gonna use some of this rock and some of my dry rock.

 

Cool rock Jedi. Have you thought about making two drains and drilling a return or using a j tube return. Might help switching to a full herbie style?

The amount of work it would take to do that, including making/buying another overflow, as mine is just large enough for the durso and the return, is quite a bit, so I just will leave it like I have it. It was quiet before after a lot of fiddling, and I know that with any other kind of overflow it will still take some doing to get it going well. When I came in from work yesterday, it was rather quiet, so it's not as bad now, maybe it just needed a little time.

 

I also bought the PVC to do a reverse durso of sorts in the sump to help eliminate noise and bubbles, didn't get to install it last night since I bout killed my back rinsing sand :)

 

That rock is kinda fugly... :(

Yeah :(

 

Some of it has a few percent of coralline coverage, but it's mostly all hair algae, despite me SCRUBBING the rock before putting it in this tank.

Let me get a sandwich baggy of reef critters to send to you. I got some sponges, mini brittles, worms, snails, and whatnot. How many pods you want?

:)

 

I'm gonna be beefing up the CUC. Right now I've only got a few dwarf cerith, a couple FL cerith, my hawkwing conch, two serpent stars, and three money cowries. Gonna go collect some zig zag periwinkles (they're about the only things I can get reliably besides nerites, but I'm done with nerites, they don't seem to do jack other than escape) and make an order with Reefcleaners for some more ceriths and nassarius, and will be ordering from a few places to try and fill my list that I made on that other thread last night. I might even go and get a kitchen sink :D

 

I would love some of what you've got, though! :)

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If your computer is crashing with the memory dump error, you will want to test each with a memory test like memtest86 or memtest86+.

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jedimasterben

All sticks pass in pairs, well they do as far as I know. There is some kind of power saving on this motherboard or GPU or something that turns off the display when Memtest86+ has been running for a while, so while I don't know if there are any errors (I wonder if there is a way to have the program write to a log file), I can tell by the system power consumption that the test is still running.

 

Two of the sticks will finish a pass with no errors in right at 30 minutes, the other two sticks will take an hour to do the same, again with no errors. I think it's around the 3-4 hour mark where the display turns off.

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got the jist of it.. ipotato, fish death, ram problemos, setup looks sweet, g'damn gurgle



any droopy drain lines? that was my problem..

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jedimasterben

No, the drain line is basically straight, it has a little bit of a curve to it since it has to go over by around 3" or so to get in the sump.

 

I also saw a drop of water coming from the threading on the bulkhead where the drain tube attaches, looks like I didn't use enough teflon tape. I will be probably be swapping out the flex PVC for regular PVC though, since the reverse durso/bubble killer thing is regular pvc.

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jedimasterben

Rectorseal pipe sealant.. I'll never go back to tape.

If I wanted to basically fuse them, I would just use PVC glue :P

 

Congrats on starting it up! I hope everything goes well for you.

I hope so, too!

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jedimasterben

Oh, ok, I'll have to look and see if Home Depot carries it.

 

 

I'm trying to come up with a game plan for dinoflagellate destruction for the coral/rock/invert holding tank. The species I'm plagued with is more than likely Ostreopsis, which is a very nasty species that makes ciguatoxin (which causes ciguatera poisoning) or a type of palytoxin-like toxin, which is right in line with what I've experienced - significant coral death to whatever it touches, cleanup crew demolished, and herbivorous fish (save the rabbitfish, which are immune) death.

 

A freshwater dip will kill dinoflagellates like it's going out of style. A few seconds is all that it takes. However, some dinos will encyst if conditions become unfavorable, waiting a while before rupturing to continue their life cycle. The good thing that this following paper says is that for at least one species of Ostreopsis, no resting cysts (ones that will last more months without rupturing for germination) were found, only thin-walled cysts and pellicle cysts, both of which germinated after 3-7 days. The ones found in threads of mucous, though, were all viable for six months after encystment, but a FW dip should take care of the mucous. MAYBE a FW dip will break the cyst, I don't know, and neither does Mr Pants. Here's hoping!

 

http://digital.csic.es/bitstream/10261/56377/1/HarAlg18_24_34_post_print.pdf



Sometimes memtest86+ doesn't stress the memory enough in my opinion. You can try this too: http://www.cnet.com/how-to/test-your-ram-with-windows-memory-diagnostic-tool/

 

I would point at the second pair of memory is the issue. Are the clock speeds of the memory mismatched?

Clock speed and timings were set manually in the BIOS and were unchanged before or after swapping. I had thought, too, that the slower modules must be faulty (at least one, anyway), but after placing the faster modules in the system and using it normally, I've experience a crash. After that, I thought to place the slower sticks in and see if it still did it, and the computer has been running 24/7 since without a crash. I just don't know.

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Normally and depending on the bios date and version, the bios will "step" down the clock speed of the faster ram to match the slower. However, mixing clock speed is not recommended, but can be done.When I built my last rig Newegg gave me free ram so I combined it and the bios knew to step down my purchased ram to match the free stuff. What is important is keeping the brands the same in my opinion.

 

Maybe run a superpi because it might not be a memory issue regarding the ram but the sram on the CPU.

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Man, and I got everything looking so good, too. :(

 

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The old cards.

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####in' EK, man. ####in' EK.

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She's shiny, but I can still see machine marks.

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Dat reflection doe

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Swapping out the o-ring.

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Used too much, but #### off, it worked.

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These things are FAT

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Almost done.

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We have flow.

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Both still going strong. No noise from them, but the CPU block makes a low hum noise.

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Dude that's looking sharp. I never got into the water cooling bandwagon, but I did mess around with the Cooler Master closed loop units back when they first came out. I ended up putting a Danger Den rad on it and that really helped the performance of it. You should come to my other home away from home and post a build log. http://www.xoxideforums.com/index.php (I'm SacredTbag there, been a member for 10 years or so)

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jedimasterben

Normally and depending on the bios date and version, the bios will "step" down the clock speed of the faster ram to match the slower. However, mixing clock speed is not recommended, but can be done.When I built my last rig Newegg gave me free ram so I combined it and the bios knew to step down my purchased ram to match the free stuff. What is important is keeping the brands the same in my opinion.

 

Maybe run a superpi because it might not be a memory issue regarding the ram but the sram on the CPU.

RAM is G.Skill F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL, so a kit of four sticks, so all have the same SPD values. All four sticks give the same read/write speeds when doing testing in Windows via synthetic benchmarks, but those two sticks were just taking longer to do each Memtest86+ pass.

 

Dude that's looking sharp. I never got into the water cooling bandwagon, but I did mess around with the Cooler Master closed loop units back when they first came out. I ended up putting a Danger Den rad on it and that really helped the performance of it. You should come to my other home away from home and post a build log. http://www.xoxideforums.com/index.php (I'm SacredTbag there, been a member for 10 years or so)

Were the Cooler Master units the Asetek units? Those things were awesome, they're what got my 'feet wet', pun intended ;)

 

Water cooling is where it's at. My GTX 780 hitting 1.35GHz on its core hit 37C on a loop of Unigine Heaven. The most I've seen from one with the air cooler is 1.23GHz in-game and hitting 68-72C on the core. More performance, much cooler running, and the system makes almost zero noise (minus the hum from the two MCP355 pumps, but they're ~7-8 years old, so I don't blame them!).

 

I might come post over there, but I have a hard enough time keeping up with the forums I'm on now (here, R2R, RC, Hardforum, RRtech). :)

 

 

 

 

OH! I also just realized that I never posted the pictures of the build with the blue tubing and the new motherboard!

 

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BattleAthletics

It's not a bonding agent, it's teflon paste.

 

 

and reef safe

Paste, will it ever clog up any pumps?

 

There's a reason why I'm asking.

 

Ben I have alot to comment but I'm mobile and there's about 3 weeks of stuff I want to multi quote. I hate mobile.

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