ZeoZEN 80g Shallow Rimless

[disaster999]

why didnt you put the baffles in the sump first before you did all that work to get it into the tank?

[BattleAthletics]

LOL DOH!

[Deckoz2302]

Lol I could have told you that the stand is glued. Anyway I suggest you take black caulk and caulk every corner and mating edge on the inside of the stand.

[fretfreak13]

why didnt you put the baffles in the sump first before you did all that work to get it into the tank?

Because I don't really want baffles. Some people use them, some people don't. Gives you a lot more room to upgrade skimmers, add reactors, etc. None of the tanks at the store I work at use them and they're all beautiful. IMO, a sump is there to hold extra water and hide equipment. People who use buckets or rubbermaids don't have baffles either.

 

Lol I could have told you that the stand is glued. Anyway I suggest you take black caulk and caulk every corner and mating edge on the inside of the stand.

Will do! As soon as I'm 100% positive I never have to take it apart again to put a skimmer in or something. Before water goes in the tank, I will do that. =)

[seabass]

I do think there is such a thing as too many baffles; I think I've seen six on a 10 gallon sump before. Still, a single baffle to maintain the water level for the skimmer can be useful; but even that's not always needed, if you plan on having an auto top off system.

 

I'm not suggesting that you should change your mind, and you still have a little time to think about it. However, it would be easy enough to install a single baffle, even when the sump is in the stand.

[fretfreak13]

I will have an auto top off. =) My RO unit will be connected to the water pipes in my house via saddle valve, run through the wall, and attach right to the tank with a float switch. I will also have a T with an on/off valve in the basement where the actual unit is so I can fill up brute cans. My co-worker will be setting this up for me, as well as hanging my Radions from the ceiling very very soon! Super excited! This is how we setup all our "service" tanks in homes and businesses alike and have never had a problem with it.

 

I also just placed the order from BRS for the screen top kit! Went to home depot yesterday to look at their screen stuff, but they didn't have clear screen and I didn't want to use black. My friend made one with black screen from home depot and it blocks a noticeable amount of light. No me gusta.

[seabass]

My RO unit will be connected to the water pipes in my house, run through the wall, and attach right to the tank via a float switch.

I know that you know a lot about tank setup, so I'm a bit hesitant to post this. The main problem with hooking the DI output into the sump, is that making small volumes of water tends to lead to premature exhaustion of the DI resin (due to TDS creep coming from the RO membrane). The first minute of RO production is usually pretty high in TDS. Of course the DI unit will compensate, but at the expense of a shorter life.

 

To save money, I tend to make large batches of RO water, so that this doesn't happen as frequently. However, I plan on installing a DI bypass so that the resin doesn't have to process this higher TDS water at all. It would be harder (but not impossible to automate this with timers).

 

One last comment. Build in a least one more fail safe (like another float switch). A failure could mean an endless supply of freshwater into your sump.

[fretfreak13]

To be honest, I DON'T know a lot about tank setup. I run the store, the boys run the installs and services. I have ONE customer I service because they do seahorses and I've personally kept them too, but its pretty much just water changing and general cleaning for them. The guys physically set up their tank. I can talk to you about corals, fish, cycling, etc. all day, but when it comes to equipment I really need people to hold my hand.

 

I actually just have a spectrapure RO unit. No DI, but I was considering adding one later depending on what my TDS wound up reading. I bought the unit very cheap used, but it has all new parts. The way it was explained to me in laymens terms is that 0 TDS is 0 TDS whether its running through just an RO unit or an RODI unit and that DI is a little overkill, but people do it anyways. I was assured I could always add a DI section later if I wanted/needed to. Based on what you just said and my plans to have it attached directly to the tank, should I leave the DI extension off?

 

How would you do two float switches? Do you have a diagram to what you're talking about? I can't picture it with the kind of float switches we use at the store.

 

The ones we use sort of look like this, but not exactly:

 

[seabass]

In addition to the float valve, you might install a float switch with a solenoid to shut off the water if it rises too high in your sump.

 

Test the TDS of your RO water. I'd expect it to read near 100 when you first turn it on and maybe as low as 2 after a minute or so. I would add a DI phase (you can add one to any RO unit).

[jedimasterben]

I actually just have a spectrapure RO unit. No DI, but I was considering adding one later depending on what my TDS wound up reading. I bought the unit very cheap used, but it has all new parts. The way it was explained to me in laymens terms is that 0 TDS is 0 TDS whether its running through just an RO unit or an RODI unit and that DI is a little overkill, but people do it anyways. I was assured I could always add a DI section later if I wanted/needed to. Based on what you just said and my plans to have it attached directly to the tank, should I leave the DI extension off?

RO only really cannot produce zero TDS water. A high-quality RO membrane can remove 99.5% of all TDS at optimum conditions (90PSI, 70°F, etc), but it can't do everything, and that is what the DI stage is for, to remove absolutely everything else. Even CO2.

[fretfreak13]

I haven't even run the RO unit yet. Maybe a dumb question, but since everything's new, should I wait to test it until I'm closer to actually filling the tank? Could be a few weeks still. Will it sitting there with water in it "waste" it in any way until I get ready to fill?

 

If adding the DI does help and its just about it being used up faster with it being directly connected to the tank, that's fine. I get a pretty good employee discount, and if it saves my 100lb self from hauling water jugs, no biggie! =)

 

That looks like the switch on my Tunze Nano for my 2 gallon. =) How would you go about connecting them both to the same RO line?

RO only really cannot produce zero TDS water. A high-quality RO membrane can remove 99.5% of all TDS at optimum conditions (90PSI, 70°F, etc), but it can't do everything, and that is what the DI stage is for, to remove absolutely everything else. Even CO2.

 

Thanks Ben! =)

[seabass]

I haven't even run the RO unit yet. Maybe a dumb question, but since everything's new, should I wait to test it until I'm closer to actually filling the tank?

If it has a SpectraPure RO membrane then it's been tested (and has gotten wet). Now it is important not to let it dry out. You might be better off setting it up, than waiting for your tank to be ready. A TDS meter is also a must.

That looks like the switch on my Tunze Nano for my 2 gallon. =) How would you go about connecting them both to the same RO line?

Before the float valve that you pictured, install an RO solenoid switch in the line. Normally, water will flow right through the open solenoid; but if water ever triggers the float switch, it will cause the solenoid to shut off the water (until the float lowers again). I haven't used this exact setup before, but I could elaborate a little more if you wish.

[metrokat]

The ones we use sort of look like this, but not exactly:

 

I have this doo hickee. Best minimal investment made after flooding my apartment building a couple of times.

[fretfreak13]

If it has a SpectraPure RO membrane then it's been tested (and has gotten wet). Now it is important not to let it dry out. You might be better off setting it up, than waiting for your tank to be ready. A TDS meter is also a must.

 

Before the float valve that you pictured, install an RO solenoid switch in the line. Normally, water will flow right through the open solenoid; but if water ever triggers the float switch, it will cause the solenoid to shut off the water (until the float lowers again). I haven't use this exact setup before, but I could elaborate a little more if you wish.

 

I do have a brand new TDS meter, so thats good at least. Pretty sure the unit hasn't been used in awhile, so does that mean its dried out? Is there any way to check?

 

I kind of got what you're saying, but it'll be easier to understand if I have the pieces infront of me I'm sure. Could the solenoid be added after I have my co-worker instal it the way he normally does? That way I can do it with your instruction, learn a bit myself, and...not have to pay him. lol

[seabass]

Could the solenoid be added after I have my co-worker instal it the way he normally does?

Sure, that would work fine.

 

I just get a little nervous about having an unlimited supply of water available without a fail safe (potential water damage and lost livestock).

 

 

I don't know much about the vendor, but you can get the parts at AutoTopoff.com. You want the one with the 1/4" fittings. You'll just splice the line to install the solenoid (the float switch will Cause the solenoid to close if the water level rises too high).

 

[fretfreak13]

Sure, that would work fine.

 

I just get a little nervous about having an unlimited supply of water available without a fail safe (potential water damage and lost livestock).

 

 

I don't know much about the vendor, but you can get the parts at AutoTopoff.com. You want the one with the 1/4" fittings. You'll just splice the line to install the solenoid (the float switch will close if the water level rises too high).

 

I think we have a few lying around the store. Still in their packages, but not a normal item we carry so just kind of lounging about. I'll look there first, but good to know. =)

[tru2nr]

Man girl...your screamin through this build and it was so enjoyable I had to join here...here's me .03 ATOs are great when hooked up to a rodi unit yet can be very bad...having these safety nets are a must no only for completely saturating your water oh and not to mention your house but they save the life of your membrane. Best way is to run a 10g+ reservoir with a gravity feed to the tank and the dual sensors in the reso just to keep stablization at a minimal but thats also not always practical and can be overkill lol...as everyone has said get a DI canister its a must have also get color change DI as it saves a lot of headaches. I know Ryan gives you a good discount but I also can get you the little stuff if need be and I actually will be placing a BRS order here once I sell a few things....anyways...I would suggest a baffle just for the return area and put the float valve there just to ensure level water in the sump...that being said I run my sump on my 180g volume system with 0 baffles....oh and lets hurry up and get this thing wet!

[fretfreak13]

Man girl...your screamin through this build and it was so enjoyable I had to join here...here's me .03 ATOs are great when hooked up to a rodi unit yet can be very bad...having these safety nets are a must no only for completely saturating your water oh and not to mention your house but they save the life of your membrane. Best way is to run a 10g+ reservoir with a gravity feed to the tank and the dual sensors in the reso just to keep stablization at a minimal but thats also not always practical and can be overkill lol...as everyone has said get a DI canister its a must have also get color change DI as it saves a lot of headaches. I know Ryan gives you a good discount but I also can get you the little stuff if need be and I actually will be placing a BRS order here once I sell a few things....anyways...I would suggest a baffle just for the return area and put the float valve there just to ensure level water in the sump...that being said I run my sump on my 180g volume system with 0 baffles....oh and lets hurry up and get this thing wet!

 

Hi Tru! You should stick around. NR kicks all the other reef forum's butts, but beware the trolls. lol Don't need to HAVE a nano-reef. lol

 

Will definetly be adding the solenoid like my dear friend Seabass suggested, as well as the DI canister. =)

[tru2nr]

 

Hi Tru! You should stick around. NR kicks all the other reef forum's butts, but beware the trolls. lol Don't need to HAVE a nano-reef. lol

 

Will definetly be adding the solenoid like my dear friend Seabass suggested, as well as the DI canister. =)

Lol thanks...your unique characater will keep me around lol... I have one other forum that I am deeply involved in, but that's a more mature reef keeping forum...I don't think its possible to get banned provided you have taste in what you say...sorry saw a squirrel and got distracted, anyways...technically I have a nano...just a 25g cube that's not hooked up and is just sitting in my living room...good to hear on the solenoid and DI...your TDS meter is it an dual inline or just a hand held one? Best $25 I ever spent was on a dual inline...now I know which filters to replace and when

[fretfreak13]

 

You tell me. I think its just a single line TDS meter, because its in the clean water line? For out coming TDS reading?

[BattleAthletics]

3 stage ro?

 

Time to add some resin!

[fretfreak13]

I will, I will. =)

[seabass]

I think its just a single line TDS meter, because its in the clean water line? For out coming TDS reading?

Yeah, the pressure gauge will help you determine if the prefilters are getting clogged, your single inline TDS meter will monitor the RO output to tell you if the RO membrane needs replaced. You could move this meter to test your DI output (which needs replaced more than the other filters); however, I'd probably just leave the inline meter where it is and buy a hand held unit to test your DI output.

[tru2nr]

Yeup single stage...I'd leave the inline for before the DI resin....get color change and you'll know roughly when to change it out...also just taking a stab in the dark but I'm going to guess your carbon block is a 5 micron filter...you'll want to change it out for a .6 micron....I know you guys carry them and if I remember correctly on ryans price minus your discount you should be inline....I would always buy two...same with DI resin...I'm gonna have to order some more here soon and I order in bulk so if you want to get in on it it'll be WAY cheaper than what Ryan will sell it to ya for lol...not knockin him I just know where he gets his DI from and roughly how much he pays but he has a very good reason for doing what he does...I've already talked with him about it

[fretfreak13]

Got my BR shipment today with my screen top kit. The box had a huge dent in it, and I braced myself as I opened it. Lo and behold...the frames are bent thanks to some careless UPS employee. Dammit. I called BRS today but their offices close at 5, so I will try again tomorrow. The main reason I wanted that kit was for the clear screen and I know I can just go to home depot to buy frames. The only had black screen.

 

I will if this is too much trouble to get it right. Just sucks that I paid for these ones already and they're damaged. Will post a picture later.