Jedi's Science Reef

[jedimaster1138]

So I just noticed this...one of my Maxspect Razors. Uh...bad. It's still working fine though.

 

 

PSU, Unit...both?

[ZephNYC]

You're a good man Zeph. A really good man. If anyone says otherwise, you send them to me. I'm a lot tougher than I look

 

You added the Copperband to the reef with the 4 Yellow Tangs already in there for a long time right? And the YT's were large at the time right? How did the CBB compare, size wise to them? This is your 210 right? That's a 6 footer? I wonder if i'd have a different experience in my 120g 5 footer.I also wonder if your other tangs are the boss and have made submissives out of the YT's... hmm. I wonder if my big blue would do the same to a new YT, Maybe in the fall if I can find a 1" YT and if my CBB is a good palm sized by then. He still doesn't do dry food, but hunts all day and eats most types of frozen and of course worms. Speaking of worms, I went to Petland today - they didn't get any worms this week! FOR SHAME

 

Hey whatever happened to the Powder Brown I gave you that terrified my poor blue hippo? I know you got him healthy in QT, did he migrate to another tank and is playing nice?

 

Anthias are gorgeous. Like GORGEOUS. They look fantastic under super bright lights too, which is key. So many other reef fish hide all day during the peak of the lighting cycle...my anthias seem to like being out in them and also photograph well then. heh I love em. I also like that you can keep multiple species and they don't really scrap between species. I'm looking forward to adding more.

 

I need to figure out what the frak to do about my chiller. I need to hide it in something. It's too butt ugly to leave out in the dining room...Wife won't be down with that and frankly neither am I. I'm thinking about a 24x12 aquarium stand and I'll cut out a bunch of vent holes and install some 120mm PC fans to feed it fresh air and suck out the hot air.

Sorry I havnt checked in in a while, but its good to know I have your back !!!! THanks!!!!

Yes the YT's were in there years before i added the CBB, which would make them more teritorial, and yes there are more other aggressive tangs in there. None of them bothered the CBB. Im guessig the bizarre color pattern/stripes made them a bit apprehensive. Yes the 210 G is 6 feet long.

 

Youre SO right in that anthias like to be out in the open. they are HAMS!!! When they get cofortable in your tank they really have quite a personality. MIne are DIVAS for the camera, and everytime they see it they literally pose for me. Like so..

 

The powder brown is doing well and holding down the QT tank. And you really do need a chiller. You will sleep better at night. I like the cabinet idea. WOw on the Maxspect thats crazy its like brand new.

[metrokat]

That Razor is brand new, this is not right. You should get a replacement and figure out what that happened.

[BeardedReeferLLC]

Yah I would get that replaced before too long, it shouldn't look like that.

[eitallent]

So I just noticed this...one of my Maxspect Razors. Uh...bad. It's still working fine though.

 

 

PSU, Unit...both?

 

My LCD display went blank on one of my units. It is easy to replace. CoralVue sent me the replacement piece.

 

Here is the thread I made on how to replace that unit.

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/328199-replaced-the-lcd-display-on-maxspect-razor-r420r/

[jedimaster1138]

I was able to get in touch with Chris at CoralVue on RC and I'm supposed to call him tomorrow morning. Hopefully it gets resolved ASAP. I'm afraid to run that light now. I have it on, but not full power...

 

Prepare yourself for a shock - but I've actually been thinking about MH's lately. The biggest reason is that my LED's aren't all that efficient. My 160w fixtures actually pull nearly 200w EACH...which means I'm drawing nearly 400w total. So the whole efficiency thing is sorta out the window. Color is great, but growth is...just OK. Maybe I'm insane and want more than is possible, but ... I dunno. I'd have to get nearly full price for my Razors back in a sale if I actually did it...

 

Plus now that I've already bit the bullet on the chiller and have it running...yeah.

 

Got any 250w laying around? heh I figure with my dimensions (60x18x24) I'd need 2x 250w plus some sort of t5/vho actinics. Been reading a lot lately about the 14k Ushio bulb on an HQI ballast. Supposedly this is what Sanjay is running now and his reef is growing out of the water and the colors are sparkling.

 

The combo fixtures are nice, but expensive. Whatever I did, if I did it, would have to be hangable and not look like trash...you've seen where my reef is.

 

I'm glad the PBT is doing well. I'm definitely going to revisit this Yellow Tang issue in the future.

 

Someone text me when you guys are on the way to Zephy's basement. I'll try to bring the wife over too - Zeph do you want my big Purple Stylo frag/colony? IT has your name on it.

[jedimaster1138]

My LCD display went blank on one of my units. It is easy to replace. CoralVue sent me the replacement piece.

 

Here is the thread I made on how to replace that unit.

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/328199-replaced-the-lcd-display-on-maxspect-razor-r420r/

 

Nice I could handle that myself too. This is on the other side though, where the PSU cable enters the fixture. I wonder if it's a runaway PSU actually. Bugger. Hopefully they are able to overnight me something. I plan on calling Chris first thing in the morning.

 

Are you happy with your Razors Eitallent ? Are you seeing SPS growth?

 

This is one of the MH combos that looks interesting to me. The integrated T5's are cool. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/hamilton-250w-metal-halide-t5-high-output-cebu-sun-lighting-system-with-leds.html I would probably consider 2 of the 2 foot ones. The 5 foot, despite being the same size as my tank, is probably too much light for my tank.

 

Of course I have no desire to spend $. I need a new skimmer soon.

[ZephNYC]

I was able to get in touch with Chris at CoralVue on RC and I'm supposed to call him tomorrow morning. Hopefully it gets resolved ASAP. I'm afraid to run that light now. I have it on, but not full power...

 

Prepare yourself for a shock - but I've actually been thinking about MH's lately. The biggest reason is that my LED's aren't all that efficient. My 160w fixtures actually pull nearly 200w EACH...which means I'm drawing nearly 400w total. So the whole efficiency thing is sorta out the window. Color is great, but growth is...just OK. Maybe I'm insane and want more than is possible, but ... I dunno. I'd have to get nearly full price for my Razors back in a sale if I actually did it...

 

Plus now that I've already bit the bullet on the chiller and have it running...yeah.

 

Got any 250w laying around? heh I figure with my dimensions (60x18x24) I'd need 2x 250w plus some sort of t5/vho actinics. Been reading a lot lately about the 14k Ushio bulb on an HQI ballast. Supposedly this is what Sanjay is running now and his reef is growing out of the water and the colors are sparkling.

 

The combo fixtures are nice, but expensive. Whatever I did, if I did it, would have to be hangable and not look like trash...you've seen where my reef is.

 

I'm glad the PBT is doing well. I'm definitely going to revisit this Yellow Tang issue in the future.

 

Someone text me when you guys are on the way to Zephy's basement. I'll try to bring the wife over too - Zeph do you want my big Purple Stylo frag/colony? IT has your name on it.

 

Ill just take the Marco rocks for now. Kat wants like a million $$ for her Gucci pink birdnest. We'll be here around 4 ish, will text you then. Hope you can make it. BTW, my tanks suck so dont expect much. Iver lost a couple of clams. Thinking my water is STILL too clean. ITs going to take a while to build up the nutrients Maximas need.

 

I have a 250W halide pendant, i have 2x 400W pendants, and a 3x 150W combo hood halide/T5 ....that Im not using.

[jedimaster1138]

Ill just take the Marco rocks for now. Kat wants like a million $$ for her Gucci pink birdnest. We'll be here around 4 ish, will text you then. Hope you can make it. BTW, my tanks suck so dont expect much. Iver lost a couple of clams. Thinking my water is STILL too clean. ITs going to take a while to build up the nutrients Maximas need.

 

I have a 250W halide pendant, i have 2x 400W pendants, and a 3x 150W combo hood halide/T5 ....that Im not using.

 

LOL. K. I'll be spending the time between now and then trying to talk the wife into coming along

 

Your tanks are gorgeous, don't you worry. I'm going to probably stare at your tangs and drool the whole time anyway. I am not responsible if I try to take a few home in my pocket. I know you're a perfectionist like me...I know how it goes buddy.

 

I might have to look at those halides and bribe you with cheese depending on what Maxspect says. I bet it would be easier to sell a brand new in box Razor ...

 

So I'd need ballasts and bulbs...and to rig a hanging solution. Hmm. Bulbs are easy. Those double ended or singles?

[eitallent]

I like the razors very much. The soft corals I have seem to do well. I scorched a few corals by raising them up from the sandbed too fast during acclimation. I just started this tank and I do not have SPS. I am a total newbie so you cannot go by me.

 

Hopefully, you will get the replacement quickly. I would turn off the light when you are not at home. It would seem that there is too much risk of a fire hazard when that much damage is showing.

[ZephNYC]

LOL. K. I'll be spending the time between now and then trying to talk the wife into coming along

 

Your tanks are gorgeous, don't you worry. I'm going to probably stare at your tangs and drool the whole time anyway. I am not responsible if I try to take a few home in my pocket. I know you're a perfectionist like me...I know how it goes buddy.

 

I might have to look at those halides and bribe you with cheese depending on what Maxspect says. I bet it would be easier to sell a brand new in box Razor ...

 

So I'd need ballasts and bulbs...and to rig a hanging solution. Hmm. Bulbs are easy. Those double ended or singles?

You flatter me

My thing is I have alot of tanks. Well...3 really...but pretty big ones. So its going to take a few years to fill them up the way I want to. I like dense reefs. Bullet proof reefs, where you can spend all day pointing out things that most people wouldnt even notice.

I have ballasts for everything. Theyre double ended bulbs. The single ended are the old mogul screw in type.

[jedimaster1138]

I like the razors very much. The soft corals I have seem to do well. I scorched a few corals by raising them up from the sandbed too fast during acclimation. I just started this tank and I do not have SPS. I am a total newbie so you cannot go by me.

 

Hopefully, you will get the replacement quickly. I would turn off the light when you are not at home. It would seem that there is too much risk of a fire hazard when that much damage is showing.

 

Fair enough. I cooked a couple SPS too with the Razors. They definitely don't lack power.

 

I agree completely. I didn't show a picture of the bottom, but the black plastic is melted there some too. I have the lights on now, but don't think the hair on the back of my neck will let me keep it on when I'm not home.

 

You flatter me

My thing is I have alot of tanks. Well...3 really...but pretty big ones. So its going to take a few years to fill them up the way I want to. I like dense reefs. Bullet proof reefs, where you can spend all day pointing out things that most people wouldnt even notice.

I have ballasts for everything. Theyre double ended bulbs. The single ended are the old mogul screw in type.

 

I'm sure your tanks are gorgeous the way they are and will only get better

 

Cool. The little bit I've research about MH seems to say that double ended HQI (magnetic) ballasts produce better color, albeit it at the expense of a little more power. Of course I'm a noob here.

[Chew_Magna]

So I just noticed this...one of my Maxspect Razors. Uh...bad. It's still working fine though.

 

 

PSU, Unit...both?

Something is seriously overheating and/or blown in that unit. I wouldn't run it period because of the risk of fire.

[jedimasterben]

Color is great, but growth is...just OK. Maybe I'm insane and want more than is possible, but ... I dunno.

I'd not look to your light first if you aren't getting the growth you want.

[jedimaster1138]

I'd not look to your light first if you aren't getting the growth you want.

 

A thought struck me a few hours ago...

 

I'm still not running A channel (IE the whites) at near max power. I think I peak at 75% now. Once I get my busted unit replaced (assuming they replace it, though I see no reason why not) and get things back to normal, I'm going to slowly ramp that up some more. Then we'll really see how things grow, and I'll revisit this issue in a few months.

 

In the meantime, priority 1 goes back to being - the Death Star...AKA - a monstrously powerful skimmer. Well that and re-plumb my chiller, but I'm not jumping off that bridge till fall.

[WarrenM]

So Jedi boy?? 501st?

[jedimasterben]

A thought struck me a few hours ago...

 

I'm still not running A channel (IE the whites) at near max power. I think I peak at 75% now. Once I get my busted unit replaced (assuming they replace it, though I see no reason why not) and get things back to normal, I'm going to slowly ramp that up some more. Then we'll really see how things grow, and I'll revisit this issue in a few months.

That might be the extra oomph it needs, but it really won't be a large difference. You'll gain an extra 10-15% output if you run it at 100% vs 75%. With both channels at 100%, 30" away should get you around around 200 PAR under the LED clusters, and to the sides of them should be around 100ish.

[jedimaster1138]

That might be the extra oomph it needs, but it really won't be a large difference. You'll gain an extra 10-15% output if you run it at 100% vs 75%. With both channels at 100%, 30" away should get you around around 200 PAR under the LED clusters, and to the sides of them should be around 100ish.

 

Yeah. I think this is good logic. 200 PAR at 30" Isn't exactly a bad #. I DID bbq 2 chalices. I'd love to know what the levels are on my "sps rocks" where I've bleached 2 SPS - so far *fingers crossed*.

 

What kind of PAR meter do you have? It might be an investment I'm willing to make at some point. Also have you seen any Razor charts over a 30" tank? Last I saw one was over an 18 or something shallower. I'm dying to see one over something deeper like mine (24 ish off the sandbed + 6 off the water)

 

I found out last night I've had an ALK spike. dkH was measuring >10, confirmed by both Salifert and Red Sea. It had to be the kalkwasser in my ATO. A lot of it had settled out to the bottom and when my ATO was drawing in water, especially when it was low, it was sucking up extra kalk-ed up water. The annoying thing is I haven't used it in a while...it just must have been build up at the bottom of the reservoir from the half dozen teaspoons I used back a few months.

 

I pulled out the ATO reservoir and gave it a thorough cleaning with both tap and RO/DI water. It's pristine now. Also did a small - 7g ish - water change. I'm over kalk...with my evaporating not being predictable, it's just too hard to use. I'll still with the 2 part. All dosing is turned off right now. I'll re-measure tonight and set new dosing durations. I have a feeling Alkalinity dosing is going to stay off for a few days.

 

I have a feeling this is why a colony of palythoas haven't been opening lately. Something seemed off. Spidey sense was tingling.

 

Left a VM for CoralVue...I hope this gets resolved today.

[metrokat]

The best way to mix KALK with less crud in the ATO is a 1G water jug. Fill it about 1/4 with water, dump in whatever amount of KALK you use. Cap it,do the shake shake dance like it's going out of style. Then do some more. Fill it back all the way with water, let it sit for a day, pour in ATO reservoir.

[jedimasterben]

Yeah. I think this is good logic. 200 PAR at 30" Isn't exactly a bad #. I DID bbq 2 chalices. I'd love to know what the levels are on my "sps rocks" where I've bleached 2 SPS - so far *fingers crossed*.

 

What kind of PAR meter do you have? It might be an investment I'm willing to make at some point. Also have you seen any Razor charts over a 30" tank? Last I saw one was over an 18 or something shallower. I'm dying to see one over something deeper like mine (24 ish off the sandbed + 6 off the water)

I use the Apogee sensor with a multimeter. About half the cost for the same performance as their full system, but without the fancy calculator added (just multiply the number by 5 and you get the PAR reading).

 

I'm sending mine up to Kat soon once I can get my crap in line, you can borrow it when she's done.

 

I found out last night I've had an ALK spike. dkH was measuring >10, confirmed by both Salifert and Red Sea. It had to be the kalkwasser in my ATO. A lot of it had settled out to the bottom and when my ATO was drawing in water, especially when it was low, it was sucking up extra kalk-ed up water. The annoying thing is I haven't used it in a while...it just must have been build up at the bottom of the reservoir from the half dozen teaspoons I used back a few months.

Most of the gunk in the bottom of the reservoir is precipitated stuff that will not dissolve unless the pH of your water is around 7 or so, so the 'slurry' won't hurt anything as far as that goes - the precipitate is not just calcium carbonate, though, it also contains any metals or other impurities in the kalk, which all kalkwasser will have, but I wouldn't worry too much about that, kalk is very pure as it is.

[jedimaster1138]

The best way to mix KALK with less crud in the ATO is a 1G water jug. Fill it about 1/4 with water, dump in whatever amount of KALK you use. Cap it,do the shake shake dance like it's going out of style. Then do some more. Fill it back all the way with water, let it sit for a day, pour in ATO reservoir.

 

Yeah that's what I do...was doing. But I dunno, something went kaflooey. I'm just sticking with 2 part...harder to screw up. heh

 

I use the Apogee sensor with a multimeter. About half the cost for the same performance as their full system, but without the fancy calculator added (just multiply the number by 5 and you get the PAR reading).

 

I'm sending mine up to Kat soon once I can get my crap in line, you can borrow it when she's done.

 

Awesome. You the man.

 

Update from CoralVue/Maxspect...they are sending me the parts to repair the light myself. It was that or ship the entire fixture to them in Louisiana for repair. Whatever I'm handy. I build my own stuff half the time so I don't care. New board (which includes the overheating components), end plate (plastic stuff) and power cord from the PSU. Sounds like it's a known issue and it's all covered under warranty.

 

The only problem is that it's going to take a few days to get them. I have to decide if I want to run the lights as is and risk whatever the risk is. I'm thinking about running them at less than full power, but only after work for a few hours. I've already been dark for 36 hours...I don't want to go dark for too long. If I get home at 7 the next couple nights, run both modules from 7 to say...12, peaking at 9, then start ramping down and completely power off that right hand light at night / while at work...

 

Otherwise I have a feeling I'm not going to see the parts before Thursday knowing the usual shipping delays associated with the slow shippers we have to deal with in this country.

 

This doesn't make me feel great about the quality of these lights long term either. Mutter.

[eitallent]

I wonder about quality control and long term quality also. However, customer service is great and Chris from CoralVue is very responsive. I got my part very quickly ( 2 business days).

 

I think the main circuit board is on the opposite side of the melted area on your light. But if you have to touch any circuit boards, just remember to ground yourself before you touch it. Static discharge will fry it as you probably already know.

 

Good luck with it.

[jedimaster1138]

I wonder about quality control and long term quality also. However, customer service is great and Chris from CoralVue is very responsive. I got my part very quickly ( 2 business days).

 

I think the main circuit board is on the opposite side of the melted area on your light. But if you have to touch any circuit boards, just remember to ground yourself before you touch it. Static discharge will fry it as you probably already know.

 

Good luck with it.

 

Yeah that's why I'm trying to learn about MH/T5/LED Combo lights now ... just in case. This mass produced stuff could wind up being junk. I mean for the price of the Razors, quality worries me. I'm getting a bit of a "you get what you pay for" feeling.

 

Hopefully he understands what I needed and sent the right parts. He saw pictures so...I assume I'm getting the right stuff. 2 business days would be bothersome. That means I probably won't be back up till Thursday. UGH. I'm definitely going to have to run my existing melting lights then, or something. I have a MH I borrowed from Zephy, but have no immediate means of suspending it over my tank. BAH. I need some angle iron or something. I hate to spend $ on some angle iron or something at HD for no reason.

[jedimaster1138]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-1-in-x-96-in-Aluminum-Square-Tube-with-1-20-in-Thick-56920/100337876#.UfbhM42SrAo

 

Crown Bolt 1 in. x 96 in. Aluminum Square Tube with 1/20 in. Thick

 

Cut that to 60". Suspend it from my brackets with some small chains at around 4" and 56" marks. Then bolt the Hamilton Pendant into that, about 12" AWL.

 

Does anyone see anything wrong with this?

Would it be rigid enough to not bend?

[jedimaster1138]

So if I was to switch from my Razors and adopt a MH/T5 combo fixture, I'm currently leaning towards the Hamilton Cebu Sun 5 foot fixture. It's 2x 250w MH and 4x T5 80w. Comes with LED moonlights too and has the hooks at the exact right position to hang it from my existing brackets.

 

The questions are many...here's a few... the most complex one being last...

 

1) Can I get most of my $ back if I sell the Razors. That's kinda key. I am not made of money. I wish I was.

 

2) Speaking of $ - I will need to upgrade my skimmer sometime in the next few months. I'm not desperate to at the moment. But it's a factor at some point. My skimmer is rated for max 100g, but more like 75g. N03- is steady at 1-2ppm so...it's not really a factor right now. I empty it about every 2 days when it's about half full of black, thick, espresso that smells worse than the subway in a 110 degree heatwave.

 

3) Can I handle the added power draw and heat load? With the building AC running...most likely. Plus I have the chiller now (something I never thought I'd buy) so I have back up to the AC. I have to check the math on the power though.

 

4) Bulb arrangement / temperature...making things grow and look correct.

 

The fixture is 2x 250w SE moguls and 4x T5's. In my discussions with Hamilton thus far they've suggested 2x 10000k or 2x 14000k plus 4x 460nm T5's. I also asked about the 420nm and while the gentleman there said he prefers 10000k plus 4x 460nm, he'd include the 420nm's so I can play around. Plus there's always buying some kind of ATI T5 bulb down the road...but I'm clueless as to what is the best combo.

 

So part A... 10000k or the 14000k. Or something else. (Radium?) I like, on paper, the idea of 2x 10000k which would give max power growth and supplementing that with blue T5's for color. The question though...would the blue T5's be enough blue power to make the tank not look yellow under the 10000k halides like it would with JUST the halides running.

 

Or should I just go with 14000k Hamilton which is ice white. Or Ushio 14000k, which Sanjay is running with no supplement right now. Or something else.

 

Hamilton sent me pictures of both the 10000k and the 14000k, but neither with the actinics T5's on. I like aspects of both. I'd love to see a picture of both with actinics on though...if anyone has one laying around, I'd love you.

 

Anyway, I'm a bit of a MH/T5 noob. I can talk about spectrum with LED's all day...so... yeah. Chime in.