buddythelion Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Purple Orchids DBZ Forget the name of the PE Dark Phoenix Campfires Green Leperchauns Blondies Gow, Oompla loompa, Darth Maul Blue Rhinos, Chuckies Bride Rasta Jokers Had a bunch more this is all before my tank crashed :'( lost everything Can't believe you had campfires! I hardly see those floating around anymore. Quote Link to comment
buddythelion Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 PZ Black Orchid: PInk Rainbow norph, one of my new favs. Kamehameha front, Speckled Fire 'N Ice back. Quote Link to comment
reeferbarra20 Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Just had a question about Zola's, palys etc. I figured this would be the best place to ask. Now, I've been keeping corals for about 7 years and have been actively farming them the past 3. I've never had any issues with pests, melting or anything of the sort. In the last couple of weeks, I've had my "hardy" strain of Darth Mauls that I've had for a year melt on me. There's also a case of what appears to be "shedding "on some of my palys and protos, but nothing on any of my zoas. I've have treated this with Coral RX, and Revive with little luck. I even moved them to a higher flow section and this shedding appears to still be there. Any ideas on what would cause this? I did a salifert test last night on all, Cal, mg and salinity, but the first three I feel were inaccurate due to the fact that it was my first time using them. If anyone has any input or suggestions, I would appreciate it. I've got quite a lot of rastas and strawberry wines that haven't displayed this shedding, and I'd like to keep them healthy so I can share the wealth. Without selling them for outlandlish prices like alot of these clown chop shops are.. Quote Link to comment
reef keeper Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 @Buddythelion Yeah man it was really hard to track them down luckily some friends have spare frags of em ;P Quote Link to comment
reeferbarra20 Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 No one has any input? :... Quote Link to comment
Allan M Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Hi, I am a Dane - who watch this tread with huge enthusiasm, and hope to be able to import some of all these nice Zoas and Palys in the future. There are some great Zoas and Palys in Denmark - but by fare as nice as all the colorful crazy ones that you have. The shipping to Denmark costs A LOT, so the the dealer I am about to chose, must be trustworthy and have some nice corals. I am looking for Zoa, Paly, St.Thomas, Ricordea. All LPS - no SPS. So what place would you recommend? And if any of you are able to send frags to Debmark - on my risk - please contact me too. Sincerly Allan No inputs to American dealers???? Quote Link to comment
reeferbarra20 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I'm an old school nano-reefer.. but looks like its time to go back to reefcentral, where people actually respond. I'm an old school nano-reefer.. but looks like its time to go back to reefcentral, where people actually respond. Quote Link to comment
buddythelion Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I'm an old school nano-reefer.. but looks like its time to go back to reefcentral, where people actually respond. I'm an old school nano-reefer.. but looks like its time to go back to reefcentral, where people actually respond. You know, for someone asking for help you're fairly rude. It's only been 14 hours and you're whining and talking down on this forum, which is a great forum. Reason why no one really answered is because it was a long question that involves a mystery about zoas that not a lot of people quite understand yet either. Nothing's wrong with reefcentral either, grandpa Grandis is there and loves to talk about zoas. Usually I'd ignore comments like yours and move on, but I did your hw for you and had to dig back a few pages to find this post I recalled reading last month, a really great zoa vendor/master on Reef2Reef named Akwarius, because I'm sure that the rest of the club could use the tip as well in case they end up where you are. I know I have, lol. "Although Im not completely sold on your zoa enema technique, you bring up a really good point. Anything you can do to minimize the growth of "algae" on a zoas skin, the better off they will be. Generally speaking, an open polyp is a healthy polyp (unless it is mushrooming or pinching). Im sure you guys have noticed the infamous "brown dust" that accumulates on the outside of a closed polyp. Is this really algae? I have to admit that Ive never looked at it under a microscope, so hate to make any assumptions. Maybe someone who has can chime in here. In my opinion, the "brown dust" behaves more like a bacteria. I've observed the following stages: Stage One- polyp closes for an extended period of time, Stage Two- a light "halo" of brown dust begins to form on the closed polyp skin, Stage Three- polyp skin entirely covered by brown dust, Stage Four- polyp skin develops rough surface, brown dust appears "embedded", Stage Five- polyp become transparent or develops a secondary fungal infection (white film). If you've reached Stage Five, a quick death is imminent and removing the polluting organism may be the best option. A mild dip at Stage One or Two will produce a quick recovery, typically within a few days. If the polyp has advanced to Stage Three, you may be in for a long fight, but a full recovery is not off the table. If you can lightly brush away the brown film while dipping, then you may still have a chance. If the polyp develops a rough texture, Stage Four, then a serious infection has taken over the polyp and a full recovery is not likely. If this occurs on an isolated polyp, you may consider removal before the infection spreads to adjacent polyps. The dipping solution should be a mild antiseptic (Coral Rx or Revive) for Stage One or Two. At Stage Three, a stronger antibiotic may be necessary. Stage Four and Five, all bets are off, so I use my entire arsenal including an antifungal such as Furan 2. I employ daily dips until nearly every polyp is open, and never less than 3 days. You want to be sure the infection is fully eradicated before releasing the zoas back into the general population. This entire process works for me most of the time, especially when I catch the problem early." 1 Quote Link to comment
buddythelion Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Hi, I am a Dane - who watch this tread with huge enthusiasm, and hope to be able to import some of all these nice Zoas and Palys in the future. There are some great Zoas and Palys in Denmark - but by fare as nice as all the colorful crazy ones that you have. The shipping to Denmark costs A LOT, so the the dealer I am about to chose, must be trustworthy and have some nice corals. I am looking for Zoa, Paly, St.Thomas, Ricordea. All LPS - no SPS. So what place would you recommend? And if any of you are able to send frags to Debmark - on my risk - please contact me too. Sincerly Allan For zoas and palys, I recommend setting up an account with PlanetZoa, Travis is a great guy and I've got so many morphs from him. But he has people make an account on his site and then get approved since there was a lot of people just looking around and taking bandwidth, something like that. Here's a little preview I put together for someone to show what morphs he has avail atm, which gets updated roughly weekly. These are all Akwarius' pics. Sorry the pictures are tiny, but it was the best way to show lots of morphs in one pic. For LPS, there are a lot of great vendors right here on Nano-Reef. Reef Gardener has lots of neat zoas and LPS. Aquascapers can take care of your shroom needs along with some Caribbean zoas. 1 Quote Link to comment
Tenor Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Just had a question about Zola's, palys etc. I figured this would be the best place to ask. Now, I've been keeping corals for about 7 years and have been actively farming them the past 3. I've never had any issues with pests, melting or anything of the sort. In the last couple of weeks, I've had my "hardy" strain of Darth Mauls that I've had for a year melt on me. There's also a case of what appears to be "shedding "on some of my palys and protos, but nothing on any of my zoas. I've have treated this with Coral RX, and Revive with little luck. I even moved them to a higher flow section and this shedding appears to still be there. Any ideas on what would cause this? I did a salifert test last night on all, Cal, mg and salinity, but the first three I feel were inaccurate due to the fact that it was my first time using them. If anyone has any input or suggestions, I would appreciate it. I've got quite a lot of rastas and strawberry wines that haven't displayed this shedding, and I'd like to keep them healthy so I can share the wealth. Without selling them for outlandlish prices like alot of these clown chop shops are.. It's very hard to predict your issue without knowing your salt mixed, water parameter and light systems. DM is one of the most delicate paly to keep in your aquarium. It could melted due to changing light spectrum, flow or placement but one thing I know for sure it will not melted due to water parameter (little low on alk or low calicum supplement). DM could growth from 1 polyp to 20 polyps and next thing the colony will melted to nothing within 2-4 days due to changing flow in the tank, and placement. So now my question is: Did you changed your light, or changing the power head location or move your DM in different place in the last 2 weeks bwfore it melted? Palythoa and Zoanthid are two different types so the disease won't effect to other. Most of the time disease will effect to it type like DM to DM only. Quote Link to comment
SerenityReef Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 ThanksTenor-It's just not fair you are as good with a camera as you are a caring for Zoa's.... No inputs to American dealers????Aquascapers is great Quote Link to comment
Tenor Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Tenor- It's just not fair you are as good with a camera as you are a caring for Zoa's.... Aquascapers is great Thanks SerinityReef. I like your avatar alot. Quote Link to comment
reeferbarra20 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I moved it. Some thing as simple as that. Quote Link to comment
Tenor Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I moved it. Some thing as simple as that. Actually moving frag around is simple to us but not for corals, Hope it answer your question about why DM melted. Thanks Quote Link to comment
buddythelion Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Actually moving frag around is simple to us but not for corals, Hope it answer your question about why DM melted. Thanks +1. Basically moved it from a location is was comfortable in and placed it in a new setting causing stress. You could try the recovery methods I posted back for you, it's worth a shot with coral dips readily found at a saltwater LFS. Quote Link to comment
SerenityReef Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Thanks SerinityReef. I like your avatar alot. Couldn't get it as clear as you did, still think my colors are off a bit. Thanks for giving me something to shoot for! Quote Link to comment
SerenityReef Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Since we are talking placement... Does the color of the Zoa in anyway suggest its lighting preference? Do darker polyps do better in less light, bright color in more light? Quote Link to comment
buddythelion Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Since we are talking placement... Does the color of the Zoa in anyway suggest its lighting preference? Do darker polyps do better in less light, bright color in more light? In my experience, that's a really tough question to answer. After playing this zoa game you start to become familiar with certain morphs and their family. For example, the darth maul is an exceptionally bright zoa, but is known to prefer shaded light and lower flow. A lot of morphs have a very similar shape to the darth mauls, and should be treated the same. My vampires turned a light peach color in higher light until I asked the seller how to retain the silver color, and was told that they preferred partial shade and the colors have brightened up since and carry the silver arcs I love about them. Rainbows, such as Sunny Ds, Vivids, CARs, and so on tend to prefer high lighting. My CAR love as much light as they can get. For the smaller morphs such as My Clementines, Rastas, Hornets, I found that they're not too picky and do well in moderate lighting and can handle higher light. This is just my experience though! Quote Link to comment
--chris-- Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I should join Currently have a nice mini colony of Carlito Cat eyes, some mohawks, green dragon eyes and some mint green/black zoas. Just paid for: Captain americas Happy PE's Purple hornets Tubbs blues and a combo rock of nuke greens and Purple deaths producing half face babys! Ive got another pile of stuff coming from a local later this month once the frags have sat after getting cut. He should be giving me: Kind midas AOG's Candy Apple Reds Rastas ??? Quote Link to comment
Allan M Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 For zoas and palys, I recommend setting up an account with PlanetZoa, Travis is a great guy and I've got so many morphs from him. But he has people make an account on his site and then get approved since there was a lot of people just looking around and taking bandwidth, something like that. Here's a little preview I put together for someone to show what morphs he has avail atm, which gets updated roughly weekly. These are all Akwarius' pics. Sorry the pictures are tiny, but it was the best way to show lots of morphs in one pic. For LPS, there are a lot of great vendors right here on Nano-Reef. Reef Gardener has lots of neat zoas and LPS. Aquascapers can take care of your shroom needs along with some Caribbean zoas. Great!! Thank you for input. But how do I get fully registered member at PlanetZoa? I am not allowed to see anything. What can I do? Quote Link to comment
SerenityReef Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Great!! Thank you for input. But how do I get fully registered member at PlanetZoa? I am not allowed to see anything. What can I do? Sign up for an account if you are serious...doesn't cost. More of a respect thing, they have a wonderful selection. There is also a wonderful selection of zoas for sale on the forum, I personally I have gotten from both and been equally happy. As a matter of fact I'm waiting for USPS right now My Account (top) New Customer (right side) Shouldn't take to long to get approved. Quote Link to comment
RiddleEagle18 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I just order LA Lakers, Fruit Loops, Watermelons Red Hornet and raspberry fields from Frag Junky. I should get them tuesday and Ill post some pictures. In the meantime: This is my largest conoly easily over 50p This is an old picture of spidermans from when I first got them. They have grown since I moved them to my new tank under metal Halide but they have seemed to dull. I just switched to LEDs yesterday and Im hoping they color back up. Im not sure what these are but they seem to have dulled under the MH as well. Hoping the LEDS help. Some speckled pink palys with brown skirt. Anyone know a name? Quote Link to comment
markalot Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Sign up for an account if you are serious...doesn't cost. More of a respect thing, they have a wonderful selection. My understanding is that it was for bandwidth reasons only. Quote Link to comment
Tenor Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 My understanding is that it was for bandwidth reasons only. Actually sign up for 2 purposes: bandwidth and advertise Quote Link to comment
buddythelion Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Actually sign up for 2 purposes: bandwidth and advertise Yup. A 2x whammy, saves bandwidth and gets you to make an account. Clever idea. Quote Link to comment
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