Peroxide saves my Tank! With pics to Prove It!

[seabass]

Over the weekend, I did another round of dipping all of my rocks. This time I used about 2/3rds peroxide to water, mixed salt in (to a sg of 1.025), quickly dipped, then quickly rinsed, then returned. This time, I saw fairly little impact on the anemones. My Fire Shrimp molted, but is fine (I assume to do stress from some stray peroxide). Note, I have done a decent amount of manual removal, but obviously, things are looking better.

New pics:

[harcocjh]

Well I had created a post entitled "The Dreaded Bryopsis?" in the general discussion area and after a bit of denial I was finally convinced that I do have bryopsis and that I should not waste my time and just try the peroxide method.

 

So that is what I intend to do...

 

I will post pictures here of before, during and after. I like pictures.

 

I would like a suggestion though on how I should go about applying the peroxide?

 

The tank is a 20 gallon tall with 20lbs of LR and 20lbs of LS. Currently the only inhabitants are my CUC consisting of ~20 dwarf ceriths, 6 Nerites, and about 6 Nassarius snails. No corals / fish. My cycle had just completed. pH: 8.2 / Ammonia: 0 / Nitrite: 0 / Nitrate: 0. Running HOB with filter floss and chemipure elite (just added chemipure elite today).

 

Here are the methods that I am contemplating:

 

1) Dose peroxide directly into tank. (how much to dose? 2ml a day? how long?)

 

2) Drain all water out of tank and spray 3% h202 on affected areas ONLY. Let sit 3 minutes and refill with freshly mixed salt water.

 

3) Drain all water out of tank and spray 3% h202 on everything not just on affected areas for good measure.

 

4) Remove all rocks and dip in a 50/50 solutution of h202 and saltwater for 3 minutes.

 

5) Remove all rocks and spray 3% solution of h202 on affected areas ONLY. Let sit out 3 minutes / rinse and replace.

 

6) Remove all rocks and spray 3% solution of h202 on everything not just on affected areas for good measure.

 

Pics:

 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

[seabass]

I'm not saying it's the best way; but if it were me, I'd take out the rocks and dip them for a few seconds in straight 3% peroxide mixed to a salinity that matches your tank's water (you'll need two or three gallons of it, and a five gallon bucket). Then, I'd leave the rocks exposed to the air for about 30 seconds, before rinsing them well in another five gallon bucket with tank water (from a water change). Unfortunately, this will kill off a lot of the beneficial life on the rock. You'll probably have the re-seed the rock using a fresh piece of live rock.

 

I recommend manual removal before and after treatment. It is also possible that a second treatment will be needed to clean everything up.

[brandon429]

Yes

 

And Seabass your pics are appreciated they are laser clean. I think the after shots of this tank above will look great one week after the external treatment recommended. Let it cook well outside the tank pics in a week pls

[harcocjh]

I'd rather avoid die off. A lot of people seemed to have success with just spot treating outside the tank or soaking in a 50/50 solution. Why the drastic approach of soaking in a full concentration?

 

Are you recommending that because it's bryopsis and not just regular gha?

[seabass]

I'm recommending that mainly because it is so widespread, and you have no coral at this point. Granted, you'd probably lose a lot of hitchhikers (pods, worms, and whatnot), but Bryopsis is a fairly persistent pest that will affect coral and other livestock. You can always seed your tank with pods after you get this under control.

You can certainly try spot treating if you wish. I'd avoid dosing the tank if there is ANY life in there (IMO, whole tank dosing is more drastic and less effective than external treatments). External treatments might still work in a diluted solution (although I'm not sure which concentrations are most effective). People have had luck with certain forms of algae at 1.5% (a 50:50 solution of 3%). However, I believe the negative effects can still occur at this concentration and I can't say for sure that it is as effective.

There is a lot of experimenting being done (use of different methods and variants of methods). Unfortunately, most of these aren't part of controlled experiments which might answer things like what's the minimum concentration that remains 100% effective.

Whatever you decide to try, post the details of the method that you choose to go with (and post the pics). And most of all, good luck!

[harcocjh]

Well...I was hoping not to have to go to that measure but it sounds like these rocks are just doomed. So far I've identified the following Microalgae growing on them: GHA, Bubble Algae, Caulerpa, Halimeda, Sargassum,

caterpillar algae (Neomeris annulataand), and Bryopsis...

 

If I do this won't my sand reseed the dieoff from the rock? This is basically going to restart my cycle correct?

[seabass]

Yes, your sand will seed some life back to the rocks after treatment (mostly bacteria). However, this might not include all species lost (including pods and worms).

 

As far as the cycle goes, I've use this external treatment on all of the rocks in a tank with livestock in it (fish, anemones, and coral). I imagine that it has some effect on bacteria (and might have even helped trigger a bacterial bloom); however, the biological filter appears to have survived (as my livestock survived). I had some Seachem Stability on hand and added a dose after treatment (not sure if this was of any benefit or not).

 

It might be helpful if you don't need to treat all of the rocks. However, if you leave any untreated algae, it could possibly spread back onto the treated rocks.

[harcocjh]

I think I'd rather not risk it by not doing all the rocks. Most of the rocks if not all have some form of microalgae on them. I probably in the future will just do this from the start. I actually saw that the rock had some algae and whatnot on it already when I got it and put it in anyway not knowing any better...

 

What's the benefit of adding salt to the peroxide vs. just doing a straight dip with no salt? Is that to help try to preserve some life if possible? Is it necessary?

 

So here is my thinking on the process:

 

Prepare 20 gallons of fresh saltwater for WC.

Prepare 4 gallon mixture of h202 matching my tank salinity.

Remove 20 gallons of tank water.

Remove rock and place in buckets with tank water.

Add freshly mixed saltwater back to tank.

Scrub rock to remove as much algae as possible.

Dip rock in h202 for 5 seconds.

Leave rock exposed to air for 30 seconds.

Rinse rock in old tank water.

Scrub rock again.

Rinse once more.

Place back into DT with fresh water from WC in already.

 

Thoughts?

[seabass]

That sounds good to me. I added salt to the peroxide because I felt that it would be just as effective on the algae without essentially performing a freshwater dip at the same time. I didn't test the pH, but I assume that it's closer to tank water conditions than straight peroxide. To be honest, I don't know if adding salt to the mix is any easier on the livestock (I just assume that it would be).

[Steensj2004]

Update on my Peroxide treatment....I used the out of the tank method, killed off a lot of algae but seems to be coming back slowly. I even moved onto adding the 1/ml per 10 gallons.....slows the algae down some, but seems to be turning my Stary Night, Strawberry Shortcake, Tequila Sunset Monti, and ORA Red and Green Planets SPS brownish red. I have stoped dosing the tank, hoping to get my color back in my SPS. My Birds of Paradise, Sour Green Apple, and Green and Red Digis seem to show no effect from the tank treatment. I have a few LPS that seem a bit pissed of as of late. Some Acans, Branching Duncan, and Bleeding Apple Scoly, seem to be annoyed, but no damage. I do have a Lobo that was on the way out when I bought it(trying to save it as well as a Tyree Mango Sherbert and Mummy Eye chalice corals that are taking a dislike to it, showing some tissue loss. Could be completely unrelated, but water perams are in place and they were fine before the dosing in the tank. I know people have had success with dosing,however, I feel less safe about it at this point. I know the out of tank treatment is the most effective, as it is more concentrated of an attack and less invassive on the tank as a whole.

[seabass]

Yeah, I will not dose a tank with livestock in it. You might need another (or more) out of tank treatments. Note that some of the species you mentioned don't do well exposed to peroxide. If you can treat just the affected areas and not get any on the coral flesh, that would be best.

[brandon429]

Well I had created a post entitled "The Dreaded Bryopsis?" in the general discussion area and after a bit of denial I was finally convinced that I do have bryopsis and that I should not waste my time and just try the peroxide method.

 

So that is what I intend to do...

 

I will post pictures here of before, during and after. I like pictures.

 

I would like a suggestion though on how I should go about applying the peroxide?

 

The tank is a 20 gallon tall with 20lbs of LR and 20lbs of LS. Currently the only inhabitants are my CUC consisting of ~20 dwarf ceriths, 6 Nerites, and about 6 Nassarius snails. No corals / fish. My cycle had just completed. pH: 8.2 / Ammonia: 0 / Nitrite: 0 / Nitrate: 0. Running HOB with filter floss and chemipure elite (just added chemipure elite today).

 

Here are the methods that I am contemplating:

 

1) Dose peroxide directly into tank. (how much to dose? 2ml a day? how long?)

 

2) Drain all water out of tank and spray 3% h202 on affected areas ONLY. Let sit 3 minutes and refill with freshly mixed salt water.

 

3) Drain all water out of tank and spray 3% h202 on everything not just on affected areas for good measure.

 

4) Remove all rocks and dip in a 50/50 solutution of h202 and saltwater for 3 minutes.

 

5) Remove all rocks and spray 3% solution of h202 on affected areas ONLY. Let sit out 3 minutes / rinse and replace.

 

6) Remove all rocks and spray 3% solution of h202 on everything not just on affected areas for good measure.

 

Pics:

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=129318'>03IMG_20131116_105200_360.jpg

http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=129319'>04IMG_20131116_105142_730.jpg

http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=129320'>01IMG_20131116_105124_951.jpg

http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=129321'>02IMG_20131116_105133_598.jpg

http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=129322'>06IMG_20131116_105153_197.jpg

http://www.nano-reef.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=129323'>05IMG_20131116_105147_114.jpg

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

I gotta see update pics so bad, so bad here this was a real potential cure. Curious about time prediction accuracy and degree of initial cleaning of target.

[duganderson]

I have some green hair algae and what I think is red turf algae growing on my pink birdnest SPS. It is on the end of 3 branches.

 

Can you use peroxide to treat this? If so, what type of treatment do you recommend?

 

I can remove this frag easily if you recommend brushing on full strength or diluted hydrogen peroxide.

 

If you don't think peroxide can work, I could break off these branches but I'd rather not.

 

 

[jedimasterben]

If you can remove the piece with ease without stressing the coral, that option is by far best. I'm not 100% sure of the concentration of the solution that you should make, but I'd imagine that just a few mils of H₂O₂ in a separate container will kill it.

[seabass]

Yes And Seabass your pics are appreciated they are laser clean.

 

Maybe not laser clean. All of this has survived 3 dips (over the course of several weeks) in straight 3% peroxide.

Got a new camera.

 

Manual removal with a tooth brush can make the rock look good again, but it appears to still leave algae which has taken hold. If left over time (without a substantial enough cleanup crew, and with enough nutrients), it grows back.

[brandon429]

man if we were at my house it would be house party at 35% time in a mister bottle, no survivors lol

 

you'd be surprised though, the little fanworms prob would survive as they retract upon emersion.

 

im curious to know if you have tested that rock for the phosphate leaching, your water column doesnt have a prob from what I recall

when people tell me their tank is X years old I look for that kind of aging detail.

look at the spirorbid aging on that rock a real nice established substrate right there. thats one heck of a tangle Sir

[seabass]

Nah, this rock is getting nuked. It's just in a holding tank.and I've already prepped new rock for the new tank. I've been partially experimenting and partially trying to reduce the risk of transferring algae to the new tank. Definitely an interesting and helpful tool, but not a cure all (or completely safe to use indiscriminately).

[foxngn]

H202 will kill feather duster worm ?

 

If i were to dip the rock first, after that put it back to my DT, does h202 will still bring a big impact in the DT?

[brandon429]

In using some easy problem solving I'd just rinse off before returning to main tank. Peroxide only harms what it contacts, so don't apply to the worm. If a dip puts peroxide on non targets, consider the material from previous pages where we only spot applied instead of a whole rock dip

[jedimasterben]

I've got tons of feather dusters on the rocks that have the heaviest bubble algae infestation, and they're all fine. I treat a patch of it with peroxide almost daily, and I haven't lost a worm yet.

[ninjamyst]

I had a patch of bryosis 3 months ago. I dipped the rock and it got rid of it. But it slowly comes back in areas with very high lighting and low flow. One spot is at the top of a rock that gets exposed when I change water. So I take a paper towel, dip it in some H202, and wipe that part down when I am changing water. Seems to be working in controlling the algae there. I also wipe the spot with clean water after the H202 treatment.

[foxngn]

will 6% concerntrationh202 be too much to use?

[brandon429]

I use 35%... But you have to consider your sensitive animals, shrimp and anemones, and the dosing method which is either external and spot applied, or one of the internal methods where you need to be careful about how much you are using. External is best, but the method I use is an internal method simply because i don't have sensitives

 

 

It's best to read the whole thread because there are pics and details to cover your tank we might miss here. Ignore the first pages where I was against 35% I've since switched teams lol

 

 

before and after pics RCharlie from reefcentral

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082359&page=58

[wyattroa]

Quick question for all. I was thinking of dosing my tank with 1mg/10 gal per what I have read. But before i do that i thought i have read back deep in the thread this would kill my scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp. I want to verify this before doing anything first. Also do we know if this as any effect on fighting conch or fuzzy chiton? Thanks again for the help.

Robert