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NanoBox Unit Constructive Talk : Changes, Discussion, Ideas


DaveFason

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A lid option with some braze-ons to accept a screws would really expand mounting options. A really simple and clean tank or wall mount could be fashioned out of bent aluminum with a vent that fits over the fan.

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I also would like to see All In One unit. Just the light and one power box. Less clutter and weight.

 

I am not sure if anyone has brought it up, but it is nice to see when I swipe down under the lighting setting it does not accidentally change the light setting. Right now, if I swipe/scroll down on my android on the light setting it will change the % setting if I don't position my finger in a certain way.

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SpencerShepard

I am not sure if anyone has brought it up, but it is nice to see when I swipe down under the lighting setting it does not accidentally change the light setting. Right now, if I swipe/scroll down on my android on the light setting it will change the % setting if I don't position my finger in a certain way.

I'd have to agree on that since I have done it myself a few times. A save button is probably best, yeah? That way you can still adjust sliders and use preview before committing the changes?

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I'd have to agree on that since I have done it myself a few times. A save button is probably best, yeah? That way you can still adjust sliders and use preview before committing the changes?

 

I just want to be able to scroll down or up without worrying that I accidentally change my light setting. It happens quite often with me each time I am on that screen. :)

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I'd have to agree on that since I have done it myself a few times. A save button is probably best, yeah? That way you can still adjust sliders and use preview before committing the changes?

Maybe make it so you have to double tap a setting to highlight it before you can adjust the slider?

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Few updates. Spencer has been teasing the new light graph and I can tell you it works 100x better than the current light schedule setup.

 

Think AI meets Bluefish. Really intuitive and easy to use. More to come. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...
SpencerShepard
2 hours ago, braaap said:

One thing. Change the background color. It is so depressing. I strongly prefer light backgrounds. It makes the app feel more thought out and higher end.

 
 

I'm not even kidding....I was about to say...

 

"A black app background is depressing? Try living in the Pacific Northwest in the winter!!"

 

and then I looked at your location.  :lol:

 

 

Alternative style changes are actually quite easy at this point in development, but it's not really my focus or forte.  Lemme see what I can do...

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24 minutes ago, SpencerShepard said:

I'm not even kidding....I was about to say...

 

"A black app background is depressing? Try living in the Pacific Northwest in the winter!!"

 

and then I looked at your location.  :lol:

 

 

Alternative style changes are actually quite easy at this point in development, but it's not really my focus or forte.  Lemme see what I can do...

 

haha. It rains more in Victoria/Vancouver then it does here in Seattle. :D

 

But super serious. Light colors really do make people think the product they are using is a much higher end item. Websites and apps are a major part of that. I've designed lots of websites and I've only had a handful of people ever want a dark background.

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I've told Dave many times already, I think these lights are great. Aesthetically and more important functionally.  If I were to give any advice on improvements I would have one suggestion. Being that you've paid so much attention to detail, I would continue that attention to the undercarriage on the retro builds. What I'm trying to say is instead of laying the wires across the heat sink where they are visible, maybe put a thin piece of stainless across the heat sink to cover the wires between the pucks. Maybe nit picky, maybe not, but to me, the cleaner the look the better. This being said, I take nothing away from such a great product, just a suggestion, which is what this thread is for. Keep up the good work Dave!

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  • 1 month later...

One thing that has always come to mind when using these lights and more so when setting up on bluefish is having the app determine my settings. 

 

I haven't setup one in a while so correct me if I'm wrong but current methods requires you to setup intensities and settings.

 

In my mind I would see you typing in the dimensions of your tank, height above surface, and corals that populate tank. With those inputs it would determine what intensities you need to achieve appropriate par for this. Without having a par meter I am really shooting in the dark on what intensities will give me what results. Shouldnt be to hard to get some data points and have an equation worked out to determine this for customers?

 

Again sorry if there is already something like this built in, it has been a while since I setup.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/26/2017 at 4:59 AM, DaveFason said:

What do YOU look for in a planted light? Please be honest.

 

I'm purely a planted tank guy right now, so I registered for the forums just to answer this (I also messaged you on Facebook with some questions about the Flare). For me, there are a few key qualities that make a planted light worth spending a lot of money on:

 

1. Good daylight color temperature. For full daylight, I like something between 5500 K and 6500 K. Based on the lighting section of the Planted Tank forums, this is a pretty common preference. I see very few people specifically looking for anything higher than 7000 K.

2. Adjustable color temperature. I like to do sunset/sunrise effects, and being able to turn the lights down to 3500-4000K in the morning and evening is nice.
3. High CRI. This is a HUGE factor for me, but I'm kind of CRI obsessed even outside the aquarium world. Having a high CRI (90+, including R9 and beyond) with a good daylight color temperature not only makes your tank look good to the eye, it makes photography brain-dead easy. The light looks like sunlight to the camera, and every camera knows how to handle that. Generally speaking, including some cyan is important to getting very high CRI, unless the white LEDs you start with are already high CRI.

4. Accent colors. Turning down the color temp is nice for that late evening feel, but to get a truly great sunset you need to have a red channel (and as a bonus, plants like some red spectrum as well). Having some blue/cyan and green/lime/mint channels as well lets you do whatever colors you want.

5. Bright enough to grow plants. This often happens automatically once you have enough LEDs for the other features, but it's still important (I prefer low/medium light to keep trimming down, but an expensive light should ideally be able to provide high light if I want it).

6. Moonlight. This a small factor, but it's nice to have. Personally, I use a blue/green combination for my current moonlights, and just using a single cyan LED would be perfect.

 

Beyond that, the light fixture itself should also look good (you're pretty much set there already), and have some good controls. I'm a software developer, so just having PWM inputs is plenty for me.

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WhiteWulfe

In addition  to the previous comments about planted that @Shadar mentioned...  Do you also offer planted versions (aka Flare)  in duos, quads, and retros?  

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DaveFason

Thanks for these guys. The new Flare array is as followed. 

 

4 - Cool White

2 - Neutral White

3 - Warm White

1 - Deep Red

1 - Photo Red

1 - Blue

1 - Cyan

 

More to come!

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  • 3 months later...
On 5/3/2017 at 1:43 PM, DaveFason said:

Thanks for these guys. The new Flare array is as followed. 

 

4 - Cool White

2 - Neutral White

3 - Warm White

1 - Deep Red

1 - Photo Red

1 - Blue

1 - Cyan

 

More to come!

Right when I'm looking for a fixture for my orchid palladium build...... has this been out yet?

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7 hours ago, trueisb2 said:

Right when I'm looking for a fixture for my orchid palladium build...... has this been out yet?

Shoot me an email. I am. 

david@nanoboxreef.com

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  • 2 months later...

@DaveFason Now that mint led had been in use for quite a while, and your recommendation is to forego the white completely in favor of mint. Do you have any plans to incorporate something else in place of white LEDs, or reduce or eliminate the number of white LEDs on the array in the future? 

Say if mint LED was array v3.2, maybe for v3.3 you can swap the whites and the blue/cyan channels?  2blue/1cyan on the old white channel, and reduce the number of white leds to 2 on the old blue/cyan channel?  

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